I wasn't sure about it before, but after spending 3 weeks in Hawaii for work, I know now. I am definitely going to be doing more surfing. I even managed to be on Oahu the end of last week when that southern swell came in and made for some pretty serious waves, at least for that time of the year. I couldn't believe when I heard the surf report and they were saying 6-8' in the south. I never quite got up the cojones to paddle out to the outermost break where there were definitely some big ones rolling in, but I'm super-stoked that I got to catch some in the 4-5' variety. And I managed to not get in anyone's way, so no haole beatdowns either. I even made my first kinda-sorta bottom turn. Kinda like making that first carved turn on skis, you realize that wow, this is pretty cool.
![]()
Bookmarks