quit fucking pushing the southies away!
flat spell - day 3
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quit fucking pushing the southies away!
flat spell - day 3
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fine
Thursday, the swell returns. Besides aren't your working now?
I have mastered all major sporting activities to a high degree of mediocrity.
your point being?
it's light at 545am. in case you were wondering.
fine
The last few days have definitely been frustrating.
you find any pearls yet?Originally posted by Dantheman
The last few days have definitely been frustrating.
fine
Stood up my first waves on sunday. I was only up for a few seconds before the wave closed out and I lost my speed, but I was up and balanced well. Tried to go out tuesday morning but no waves. The waves came back thursday so I did some dawn patrol at Morro Rock before class. Sets were pretty far apart but when they came they were clean and shapely. Caught a lot of waves but I crashed on most of them. My pop-up is really rough and I have a bad habit of going to my knees first. But, when I pop up clean I ride away every time. I can't stay with the wave yet though, the last wave I caught thursday was the first one where I wasn't just thinking, "Holy shit, I actually standing and not eating crap", so I usually shoot out to far ahead of the wave and can't get back to it before I lose my momentum. Overall, I've been pretty happy with my progress so far. Hopefully conditions are good this weekend.
pop up: fiddle around with where you place your hands on the deck in terms of nose to tail (no need grab rails, mostly). I guess reach back towards your hips.
dan, are you regular or goofy? it'll be easier to stay up on the wave if you're facing it after your drop (ie, regular foot on rights, goofy on lefts). so, if you're regular footed, the second you're up, start carving on your toe side. this'll keep you higher on the face and you won't stall. this is a lot easier on a shorter board though, so you might have to put a bit more pressure on your back foot to bring the nose around.
when popping up, my last paddle/push is with both arms so that my hands grab my rails at the same time. it should be one quick motion and your feet should land on the board at the same time.
fine
this is really really helpful.. and im not dtm! Thanks tuffy.. im trying to learn to surf as well. I've been windsurfing for a long time, but am a very mediocre surfer and am trying to put some time in this summer.
I ride regular, thanks for the help.
But do you heart dtm???Originally posted by snorkeldeep
im not dtm!
"There is a hell of a huge difference between skiing as a sport- or even as a lifestyle- and skiing as an industry"
Hunter S. Thompson, 1970 (RIP)
i so heart dtm.
Well, don't heart dtm too much. You don't wanna make AC angry. You wouldn't like her when she's angry.
"There is a hell of a huge difference between skiing as a sport- or even as a lifestyle- and skiing as an industry"
Hunter S. Thompson, 1970 (RIP)
i heart butters
fine
so anyways, yeah, i was in pure disbelief the first time i dropped, made my turn and had the wave forming in front of me. i almost fell off i was in complete shock. but it's something you'll remember.
date: wednesday before thanksgiving, 2002
fine
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