Tips: Cornice cutting

[FreakofSnow]

Thought this might be a worth topic to pick the magg brains on. I have limited experience on this said backcounty bomb, but would like to use it safely when the opportunity presents itself.

My main question is how to use the old knotted rope trick (every 1') when you don't have a weighted object to tie to the end of the rope?

Here's a quickie of MountainMan cutting one a few years ago, we had a rock to throw on the end.

http://www.stepping-up.net/Videos/CorniceCut.wmv

There are obviously a lot of things to consider:

- Cutting new vs. older cornice
- considering being on belay
- everyone safe distance from breaking point (often further back than you think)

What is your tool of choice? Saw? M-80's? I'd love to hear some of the experiences etc.

[Egg Beater]

My main question is how to use the old knotted rope trick (every 1') when you don't have a weighted object to tie to the end of the rope?

Two people work well for this. One person on each end of the rope. Helps if you get a cadence going verbally to avoid the tug-of-war!

As you called out, REALLY important to make sure you are well back in a safe area and obviously no one below you or in an area where a sympathetic release could get someone.

[zion zig zag]

http://www.avalanche.org/~uac/photos...20gallery.jpg/

[Huckin eh?]

Ahhh. my favorite form of slope testing.
Cant wait to get to some good cornices this year. Should get some spectacular results.

I tried at first with a rutschblock cord but it wasnt long enough. I Added some thin (1/16") rope with knots every 1 - 1.5' to said rutschblock cord so now I have about a 30' cord.
It works best with 2 people at lest to start. One person can finish the job by himself easily.

[BFD]

Here's a tip: don't wrap the rope around your hand, you may go with it.
Personally I am not a fan of cutting cornices usually they are too big too screw with or hard so you waste alot of time with little results.
Too big

the other day we came up on the summit to some cuttable cornices

so I usually carry 60' piece of 8mm perlon mostly for belaying in over and around cornices. So we put a couple of knots in it and proceeded to saw good results

had the rope around our hands and nearly dragged my partner and I with it. Took out a good section of the slope went 1200' over an 80' cliff still had 5' pieces intact.never saw the rope again, now I can replace it with something skinnier and thinner. anyway here is my son enjoying the fruits of our labor

[soul_skier]

full nalgene works well as weight

[sarge1957]

I'm glad everybody in here watches the DVD extras we put in the TGR flicks.....This years extra on safety is a step by step tutorial on how to safely cut cornices, and when and where the method is appropriate.

Sarge

[FreakofSnow]

Any chance you can throw that up on the site and link to here?

[sarge1957]

I hope to post all the safety vids online one of these days. We are working on a new initaitive that may accomplish that. But for now it's just on the DVD extra. Sorry.

Sarge