Castle Peak Beta

**longhikes** · 12-23-2007, 04:58 PM

I've been trying to plan an attempt at Castle peak. I've searched the forums for info, but was hoping to get some 1st hand knowledge. I'd like to make it into a 3-4day trek, climbing and skiing the live long day.

any info?

**prmulligan** · 12-23-2007, 05:05 PM

Which Castle Peak?

**longhikes** · 12-23-2007, 05:11 PM

Originally Posted by prmulligan

Which Castle Peak?

my bad,

i meant Castle peak (14,265ft) in the Elk mt range of Colorado, USA

**KillingCokes** · 12-23-2007, 05:22 PM

I've been up there a few times though for conundrum and I injured my knee trying the east face. so never summited. this year along with cathedral
there are a couple trip reports on this board with good pics of different routes. Try search function

check out summitpost.com for links to maps and more photos. the topozone link will show you your access

It's a long way across many north facing avy paths, greg mace pk, north facing is particularily oenerous this year as far as stability goes. I'd wait until the road opens in the spring and things get more stable.

You could also access from conundrum hot springs lowering the avy risk some but not by much. that access would be for the west face

**grskier** · 12-23-2007, 05:25 PM

It's been windy 'round these parts loading slopes the last day and change.... Haven't had the visibility to see if anything has gone natural over there though.

**longhikes** · 12-23-2007, 05:33 PM

Originally Posted by KillingCokes

I've been up there a few times though for conundrum and I injured my knee trying the east face. so never summited. this year along with cathedral
there are a couple trip reports on this board with good pics of different routes. Try search function

check out summitpost.com for links to maps and more photos. the topozone link will show you your access

It's a long way across many north facing avy paths, greg mace pk, north facing is particularily oenerous this year as far as stability goes. I'd wait until the road opens in the spring and things get more stable.

You could also access from conundrum hot springs lowering the avy risk some but not by much. that access would be for the west face

sweet bro. thanks. i looked at summitpost and theres quiet a bit of info. i'm with ya with the stability, but waiting till spring isn't an option (overseas job awaits)

From the maps it seems like the east face is the easiest and the route less taken. The access from conundrum could be the way to go.plus i'd get a nice soak in too

**KillingCokes** · 12-23-2007, 05:47 PM

Originally Posted by longhikes

sweet bro. thanks. i looked at summitpost and theres quiet a bit of info. i'm with ya with the stability, but waiting till spring isn't an option (overseas job awaits)

From the maps it seems like the east face is the easiest and the route less taken. The access from conundrum could be the way to go.plus i'd get a nice soak in too

I would not recommend the east face until spring consolidation. It's around 45-48 degrees and it sees a ton of loading. There will have been early season facet development that was covered by snow from storms at the end of November. CAIC was suggesting skier triggered failures of massive hard slabs in just such situations yesterday.

The west face I think would be your best option due to wind scour. Hit it after a storm and have fun. Keep an eye on your route under Hunter Keefe and Hilliard, They'll see the most windloading. Think about this when crossing the bottom of the paths.

There is an old guard hut at the hot springs that will make a nice camp. The water at the springs is about 100*.

UN 13550 at the end of the valley is a nice option as well that's in the neighborhood.

**longhikes** · 12-23-2007, 05:57 PM

Originally Posted by KillingCokes

I would not recommend the east face until spring consolidation. It's around 45-48 degrees and it sees a ton of loading. There will have been early season facet development that was covered by snow from storms at the end of November. CAIC was suggesting skier triggered failures of massive hard slabs in just such situations yesterday.

The west face I think would be your best option due to wind scour. Hit it after a storm and have fun. Keep an eye on your route under Hunter Keefe and Hilliard, They'll see the most windloading. Think about this when crossing the bottom of the paths.

There is an old guard hut at the hot springs that will make a nice camp. The water at the springs is about 100*.

UN 13550 at the end of the valley is a nice option as well that's in the neighborhood.

ya it seems like the wind has been a little funky the past week. i've been to the old guard hut, its way cool. i would consider not going for the summit if the lines down low looked good. i dont think many people in colorado have done these routes, prolly for the same instability. it will have to wait till after the new year for sure, the weather is not looking good, well, good for in-bounds pow.

**KillingCokes** · 12-23-2007, 06:06 PM

This year seems to be shaping up as a standard Colorado stability year. The last couple years tons of lines got skied even mid winter because stability was more or less great. Most of the peaks that I'm gonna ski are gonna wait until spring this year. For the peaks that I ski in the winter route selection will be the key to success and saftey

Castle is one elk that gets skied alot because of ease of access and a relativley easy line on the north face.