All i need to know is are the mounting holes in the same place beetween the two? a review i read says they are widened out.
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All i need to know is are the mounting holes in the same place beetween the two? a review i read says they are widened out.
Looks like there is one more hole for the rear plate under the midsole.
http://www.wildsnow.com/backcountry-...ride-plus.html
http://www.wildsnow.com/backcountry-...rear-plate.jpg
Interestingly, he did a stiffness test and the PLUS is about the same flex as the old Freeride.
http://www.wildsnow.com/?p=379
One flaw may be that he is testing an unweighted boot in a binding and once you stand on the ski, the new channels might engage more. OTOH, even weighted, the outside edge can lift up from the torque, so he may be right.
Dynafit
——————– (20 units deflection from vertical)
Fritschi Freeride Plus (2006 model with black toe wings and red support plate under binding)
————————– (26 units deflection…)
Fritschi Freeride (2004 model with white toe wings)
————————— (27 units deflection…)
Marker M1100 Titanium alpine binding
—————————- (28 units deflection…)
Naxo Nx21
—————————– (29 units deflection…)
Silvretta Pure Freeride
———————————— (measured virtually the same as other Pure models)
Silvretta Pure Performance
———————————— (36 units deflection…)
Naxo NX01
——————————————- (45 units deflection…)
same hole pattern except for the additional one on the heel.
I think bossas? did a review of them. He had the original FR on one ski and the FR+ on the other ski I think using the same holes.
so if i got a ski drilled for freerides i could put freeride pluses on them? (same size of course)
took a while to find, since it is cryptically titled "The Test"Quote:
Originally Posted by pechelman
http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=49765
absolutely.Quote:
Originally Posted by mtaylor
i mounted a pair of FR+ bindings a few months ago, and the process is the same as for the FR (with the aforementioned additional hole).
it'll work just fine for you.
(personally, after feeling both old and new versions, i don't think the new one would make *a world* of difference...but i've not yet had the FR+ on snow. i can believe there's at least a little improvement in rigidity, but it's marginal, at best.)
cool to see that he updated it. it's interesting that the nx21 is testing 'looser' than the FR...and that the FR+ doesn't really make much of a difference in the test.Quote:
Originally Posted by Core Shot
then again, these are just tests in the 'lab'...but interesting nonetheless.
I need to put dynafits on my resort skis.
kidwoo, clearly!
While you're at it, you should put some road tires on your dh bike.Quote:
Originally Posted by kidwoo
Well they're stiffer than marker something something titanium thingies.Quote:
Originally Posted by Summit
Probably safer too.
arty: that would be rad if I could actually get the bead to seat
^ ha the rim width is definately larger than the tire width. You would pretty much need UST rims for that to work.
This is true. Just one more hole to drill in the back. I did it freehand.Quote:
Originally Posted by pechelman
so how hard is it to mount your own bindings?
depends what you're working with - and how much you trust yourself with a drill
rossignol b4s, freeride pluses and if need be i have access to a drill press
you can download paper templates for mounting on wildsnow. If you have a template and a drill (and a good way to keep from punching through the whole ski, seems like a drill press should work) then mounting them yourself is pretty easy.
ditto - shouldn't be a problem w/ all that
and if you have access to a drill press, maybe you have access to ANSI size drill bits or whatever they're called - a size 20 bit is exactly right (4.1mm) for skis with metal in the topsheet (ie a b4), since metric bits are kindof hard to find in a machine shop.
Probably not too hard to find in a school shop class though..
drill bits are also really cheap
you could even buy a super nice cobalt one for probably less than 4$
www.mcmaster.com
i have drill bits
The drill bits from tognar.com are worth having. They have a collar on them so you cannot drill through the ski, and it insets the hole a bit as well.
You'll definitely find me rocking Dynafits inbounds... it's not an everyday or hucking thing, but they're super-solid. Don't recommend it if one is improving and really wants reliable release...but they hold up on any condition, in my experience.Quote:
Originally Posted by kidwoo
mtaylor...Quote:
Originally Posted by mtaylor
it's actually very easy to do the mount IF (big "if") you are capable of being patient and measuring carefully.
after the first time, you'll wonder why you ever paid a shop to do it for you.
if you're honestly the type to say, "oh, it's close enough" or lose patience 7/8 of the way through the job, take it to a shop.
expect it to take the better part of an evening.
drill bits from tognar are worth the $$ if you're starting out. they'll pretty much guarantee that you won't drill through the base. (even if you *do* drill through the base, some epoxy & ptex can even fix that extreme problem, though i recommend avoiding it if you can ;))
freehand mounts involve more careful measurements than using a jig. however, even with a jig, you really need to be careful with fritschis to ensure that the heel piece is exactly where you need it.
follow lou dawson's directions on wildsnow.com, and you'll be golden. read through them 2-3 times before you even touch your skis or a drill. sometimes things are clearer once you read the step *after* the one you're currently on.
plenty of threads on this stuff around here, and the wildsnow stuff really is the best guide for AT freehand mounts.
you'll feel empowered and have a better grasp of your binding's strengths & weaknesses.
some folks accomplish this with a regular drill bit + duct tape...but what TDS says is true: the tognar bits are basically foolproof if you can hold the drill straight, and the duct tape solution saves you a few $ (savings will be less than $10, assuming you have to buy a new bit anyway)...and it could create problems.Quote:
Originally Posted by The Dark Side
you want *sharp* bits, esp if going through metal.
I built a little jig to help me drill skis (needed access to a machine shop to make it though) - it's just a block of aluminum, that I milled to 9mm thinner than the length of my drill bit when it's chucked in my hand drill. Then I used a drill press to drill a hole thru it, with the same bit I use for skis.Quote:
Originally Posted by upallnight
I just sit the block on the ski (after center-punching where I want to drill a hole) and drill through it - it keeps the drill bit perpendicular to the ski, and keeps the bit from going more than 9mm deep. I think it's more idiot-proof than wrapping electrical tape.
mtaylor - if you're planning to mount just 1 pair of skis, then I'd just do it on the drill press like you said. If you plan to do more in the future, and would rather do them at home than in the shop, then it's worth buying a proper bit from tognar, or building a simple jig
Quote:
Originally Posted by davep
Ive thought about making something like this except using a clear peice of thick lexan and inserting steel bushings for the holes. Also maybe cutting a couple of centerlines to help with alignment.
What about buying that rear plate from the + and retro-fitting it to the old freeride???
Is it unpossible?