http://www.skitour.fr/articles/read_70.html
holy balls :eek: !!!!!
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http://www.skitour.fr/articles/read_70.html
holy balls :eek: !!!!!
Je nö parle fransee!
And baablefish suck too..
A small referate?
Courtes face something in two minutes something..
on doit le the fuck translate, please
Quote:
Originally Posted by Meathelmet
These guys fell all the way down the NNE couloir of the Courtes 710m in less than 2 min. Acording to his watch they fell at 538m per min.
Both banged up but otherwhise not much damage. Very luck. Fall speed reduced due to ploughing through the fresh snow. No rock bands to hit and their Rude state of health.
Something about a Dynafit pre relesase. Atlthough if I'm reading this correctly (and I may well be wrong). Clipping a rock on your first turn. On a 50 degree slope. If you weigh 80kg without your gear you may want more than DIN 8.
For skiing something like this where most of the climb is a bootpack and the skin to the base is non technical I personaly prefer my Securifix (trekka predecessor) and my heavy alpine binders.
http://www.skitour.fr/articles/photos/275.jpg
the picture is worth a few hundred words, at least.
that is scary shit - even with my rudimentary French
yeah yeah yeah it's not a prerelease, he got a rock.... dynafit released and he crashed against the second skier. They also flew over a crevasse, apparently....
The main dynafit issue discussed here is that they are tricky to drill (there's no way to fix them better to the boot once drilled) and he felt there might have been too much space between the rear binding and the boot...
anyway, veeeeeeeeeeery lucky dudes.
for those of us that arent multilingual in Frenchy
http://translate.google.com/translat...language_tools
edit: not that it translates great, but at least its better than trying to read frenchy words and marks
Just to think out loud, the comforts in this case is nice.Quote:
Originally Posted by verbier61
They can adjust,what,15mm in either direction to accomodiate different sized boots?
dunno exactly, but doubt. Dynafit also claims that one must bring both boots to the place were skis are drilled, than mark left and right skis.....because also few millimeters between left and right boots might be a problemQuote:
Originally Posted by Meathelmet
I've found that true. I'm not sure if it's because the bindings are off a few mm or the fittings in the boot are off a few mm.Quote:
Originally Posted by verbier61
Dammit……after researching Dynafits the last few days on this forum I was pretty much sold on them. I was super pumped to throw down for some DPs from Marshal and put some Dynafits on em’ for the ultimate lightweight touring set up. This is not helping the cause for the Dynafits………………
Don't sweat it - get them mounted by someone who does a lot of them. you'll be fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by Pow4Brains
At least one of the guys who just skied the north face of Everest did it on Dynafits.
well dynafits are still cool, but you want to be sure to have them drilled at their best. said that, I am always a bit -you know - scared whan using them in risky places. they're cool, but look so primitive....
pow4brains - dont worry about it. dynafits are way more reliable than fritchis have ever been. i've busted a couple fritchi toe pieces and have busted the red volcano on my dynafits, but they are still fully functional in that state. they are probably the most reliable and bomber AT binding ever. and they tour sooooooo much better than fritchi. a little finicky at getting in and out, but way worth it. buy em..after a day or two on them you'll be glad
Kool. Thanks for the reassurance. Are any of you from the Denver area and have recommendations on where to have them mounted (not real happy with Bentgate and Neptune)? Is anyone out there skiing Dynafits with a ski around 100mm underfoot? I can’t decide between the DP Wailer 95 or 105. My current AT set ups are: REXs with Titanal 2s and ANT with Freerides.
Any input would be apprecatied.
BTW-I’m 6’ and 190#
Do it yourself. If you're careful, you'll likely do a better job than they can with a jig. Dynafits are the first binding I ever mounted myself and it was no problem. If you're really nervous, practice mounting them on a pair of Goodwill skis and you'll be more comfortable. Lou Dawson's instructions.Quote:
Originally Posted by Pow4Brains
As for 100mm underfoot skiers with Dynafits, Bros with Dynafits review.
Yeah, saw these, thanks.
I know this could go on forever but I have to ask (opinions are like assholes and some of the stink…..blah, blah). I guess my real question is, for an all around/everyday touring set up, would you go with the DP Wailer 95 or 105 and why (please note I do have the ANTs with Freerides)? What boot and what Dynafit binding? I was thinking Megaride and Comfort.
Go to edgeworks in Denver to have them mounted. They always do an excellent job.
That's definitely a scary article. Having the same thing happen to me on Crystal Peak earlier this spring, I've found that it's important to make sure you are in the bindings 100%. Turns out my toe holes weren't all the way in when I stepped into the binding. The comforts are great too since you can adjust the heel forward and back to get a precise fit.
It's cuz of YOU that I am buy new shit:cussing: :biggrin:Quote:
Originally Posted by iskibc
What do you think about width of b/c ski?
:biggrin: Buying new gear is a great mode of therapy.Quote:
Originally Posted by Pow4Brains
If you want something fairly lightweight and can use in just about any conditions, go with the Bro Model. Wide skis are great for spring touring as well. They ride corn snow like a surfboard carving a wave. Real smooth.
I would stick with something in the 90mm-100mm underfoot range.
Hitting a rock is not a pre-release. If it's really sketch, you can LOCK down the toe on the Dynafits.
The salient points are:
1) Dynafit bindings are super-bomber and I would trust them on *any* descent (not hucking unless the huck is small and the landing is soft).
2) You need to mount them properly, but this is also true for every AT binding. Many Dynafit models allow for some adjustment of the heel for a precise fit (Comforts go one shell size in either direction), and it's super-important to use the Dynafit-supplied spacer to check the fit.
3) You need to make sure that you clean the Dynafit receptacles on the front of your boot to keep them free of snow/ice/slush...and you really need to ensure the boot is securely seated in the toe piece. Seems trivial, but it's a little challenging (at first) when you're in the field & putting them on on steep terrain. You want to have this absolutely dialed before starting your descent, and it involves practice at home & in lower-consequence areas first.
Dynafits are definitely RELIABLE if you want to keep your skis on in the hairiest of descents. If you're looking for the best binding to release in all biomechanically-correct directions, look elsewhere.
I'll second mounting yourself using the template on Lou Dawsons site. Its super easy if you just take your time.Quote:
Originally Posted by Pow4Brains
I've got lotus 120's with comforts and Prohetes/106 with classic tlts. Ski width is not an issue. If anything its the dynafit compatible boots that are just now catching up to the bigger skis.
I always ski with the toe locked and still release on a good beater. If you don't ski with it locked, I recommend at least pulling the lever up and pushing it back down just to make sure your pins are seated. If you just step into them, sometimes you can feel like the ski is on, when its not. I think this catches people at times and what people call prerelease is really user error. And as mentioned, keeping ice out from under the toe wings and boot sockets is critical. Otherwise the bindings are bomber.
wailer 105 = perfect for this application.Quote:
Originally Posted by Pow4Brains
there is no reason to go smaller
Dirk--are you worried about that f-ing up your knee (having it in locked when you might take falls)? The release at the toe, in my opinion, isn't that great.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirk Diggler
Also, what you say is on-the-money: People need to step in, then pull up on the same front lever you use to lock the toe. Usually, the first click is easy to get to, but you're still not fully in. You need to keep pulling (I get a couple more clicks). Then, I back it down to release-mode. The effort to get to the 2nd click is much more than the first, but over time it becomes a bit easier.
This is very important every time you step in, even if you're not locking the toe for the descent.
Again, folks -- try it at home before doing this in the field.
I have Dynafit comforts. When I ski in no fall zones, I increase the forward pressure by a millimeter or so, make sure the DIN is maxed, and 'lock' the toe.
Other tips:
1. clean your heel groove well, a whippet works great for this.
2. clean your toe holes very well, then step in to the toe and go forward and back a bunch. The little grooves in the pins will help clear out debris. Then open the toe, and restep in.
3. make sure all the snow is out of the toe piece, if not, it won't completely lock out.
Mounting tips:
1. when you get your mounted skis back, put the toe in, lock it, and put the heel down to see if the boot heel grooves line up EXACTLY with the heel pins. If not, the person who mounted them just tried to kill you. They must line up within 1mm, or it causes excess tension on the toe pieces.
2. consider increasing your forward pressure more than what Dynafit suggests with to give you an effective longer pin length.
These bindings are safe, but you have to take some time to put them on right and understand how they work.
In the past year I watched Powstash walk out of his Fritschi Freerides in a 58 degree couloir. Yesterday I watched a guy walk out of his Silveretta's in a steep Teton couloir. And how many 'instant tele' modes have you seen Fritschi's do?
No binding is 100%. One more reason to ski slow and in control in the no fall zone.
TH posts some good info.
I'd be careful with this one ("consider" it carefully). That space allows for the ski to flex and the boot to stay in position. If you shorten the space, the boot will be pressed against the heel piece and this may put more stress on the heel piece (or your leg).Quote:
Originally Posted by Trackhead
Well, I've experienced it once in 9-10 years, and I've heard about it much more often than I've seen it. Fritschis are totally safe if mounted properly...many of the incidents seem to come from using Titanal version 1 (early models of it, too), hucking (which they're not officially rated for) or extreme flex on soft skis (think: tips & tails only touching the snow)...but I firmly believe careful mounting solves these problems. I've used many pairs over 9+ years in all situations and on many skis...and I know the problem can be solved.Quote:
Originally Posted by Trackhead
The parameters TH suggests re: Dynafit mounting (heel piece to within 1mm) need to apply equally to Fritschis. If equal care is applied to the mounting of those AT bindings, I think the playing field is leveled.
I know many folks (earlier this year Newcomb skied "Talk is Cheap" on a pair of Titanals) who have no problem trusting them on you-fall-you-die terrain (me included), just as we/I would ski Dynafits on similar terrain.
Walking out of a shoe on a 58-degree couloir is tantamount to death! What happened? What were snow conditions? What ski? Who did the mount? What vintage Fritschi? How heavy is the rider + pack?
That says it all.Quote:
Originally Posted by Trackhead
Is that the one Koch coined on Cody refering to a no show after drunk talk at some bar?Quote:
Originally Posted by upallnight
One more thing.........
When you find yourself in a position like this, or other awkward tweaky, binding flexing positions, consider what might happen in the event of a release. Consider the what if?....................If the what if scenario is beyond your comfort zone, then consider downclimbing, or somehow avoiding a potentially disasterous release.
http://fritzrips.com/Gallery1/albums...th_squeeze.jpg
Heh. . . your sig doesn't quite agree ;)
We're talking about going down, not up.Quote:
Originally Posted by Camilo
You raise an excellent point. Sometimes when sideslipping, we consider our ability to edge into the snow, or whether tips and tails will fit through the narrows... but the impact of extreme ski flexion needs to be considered.Quote:
Originally Posted by Trackhead
Having an axe at the ready for an impromptu anchor makes it easier to make the decision to take the skis off and downclimb. Also, not having twintips helps, too. :)
Mountaineering safety does get style points, in my book.
Twin tips definitely make it easier to side slip though. No tail hangup/tail diving.Quote:
Originally Posted by upallnight
True, but I think there's a balance. I do have lots o' TT skis, but what I value most is a shallow twin that could still easily be planted in the snow for use as an anchor or just so the ski doesn't get away when I need to take my hands off it.Quote:
Originally Posted by JoshP
Most twins are a little too pronounced/park-oriented, but I still enjoy riding them. My own ski design would not go crazy with it.
So I am pretty much sold on the Dynafits, but, how much do you think the added leverage of a “wider” ski increases this affect?Quote:
Originally Posted by Trackhead
Is the width difference between a DP 95 Wailer or a BRO worth worrying about? I can’t make up my mind between the two!
I dont see how a wider ski would increase "leverage" in that said situation,wich is in the picture.Quote:
Originally Posted by Pow4Brains
The flex of the ski is the main thing,i.a, how much the ski droops,and hence "squeezes" the binding.
Stiff ski or a ski with less side cut (dosnt hang up on its tip&tails so easily)
is less prone to that.
So going the bro way could be nice..
Bro radius 30(?)m VS 95 Wailer 24(?)m.
But the wailer could be a sweet ski with dynafits...Drool..
is this including NX21s? not challenging, just curious.Quote:
Originally Posted by wilcox510
as somebody who beaters a fair amount :D i'm a bit sketched out by the locked in dynafit toe, and the naxo seems to offer the closest thing to an alpine toe release. definitely not as light as the dynafits, but maybe burlier?
Reliable and bomber in the sense that they don't often break - they release ok but nothing like an alpine binding.Quote:
Originally Posted by ninjabirdman
Well, you don't HAVE to lock the Dynafit toe. That said, if you beater often I wouldn't go the DYnafit route.Quote:
Originally Posted by ninjabirdman
Yeah...the Naxos and Fritschis are WAYYYYY heavier than any Dynafit ("definitely not as light" = big understatement). If you want alpine release, you should get an alpine binding (+ trekkers). The Naxos may be the closest thing to an alpine toe, but Naxos and Fritschis definitely don't have as reliable release performance with AT boots as alpine bindings + alpine boots.
Naxos have more metal than Fritschis, which *should* make them more reliable and burlier. That said, I've been totally pleased in many years on Fritschis -- and equally pleased with my Dynafits.