Got some diff bindings but just as a super-jongy point of info....what's the good word on redrilling old holes that have been filled at a pro shop? Obviously less than ideal but are we talking probably OK or is-your-life-really-worth-that-little?
Printable View
Got some diff bindings but just as a super-jongy point of info....what's the good word on redrilling old holes that have been filled at a pro shop? Obviously less than ideal but are we talking probably OK or is-your-life-really-worth-that-little?
Inserts
I’ve never had a problem.
Tech talk jong
+1 for chairman pow name
-1 for not posting in tech talk
If the screw don’t spin, you’re in for the win
If it bites, it’s allright
Filled with plastic plugs? They usually come out easy.
Thanks, point taken on tech talk Crap
No problem.
Drill with narrow bit (3.5mm, not 4.1mm). Pull the old plugs. Be sure to hand tighten the new bindings so you don't over-torque.
get a snowboard
Drill the plastic plug w/ a tiny bit, screw in small wood screw and pull out
Are we talking about ALL screws in the same holes? i.e. exact same bindings and exact same BSL? Or, are we talking about close where some of the holes will be partially over the holes and partially not? If it's the latter find a new mounting point or drop a plate over the old holes. If it's the former then, ya, you can probably do it.
How do pros fill holes? That's the crux of the biscuit.
I've always thought epoxy was a safe bet?Quote:
Originally Posted by splat
Nah, pros buy their conquests a couple of drinks first...
#rimshot
Well I guess I opened the door for that didn't I
Yes, epoxy and golf tees, dowels, or toothpicks. Wood core begets wood fill w/epoxy. Totally drillable at any offset if done right.
Plastic plugs, nah.
I got my Kusalas from powdork after he had ridden them beyond imaginable belief. Paper thin bases and edges and each ski had 28 holes.
Took the time to fill each one propah, dropped the jig on them and put 8 more holes in them with absolutely no concern where jig landed.
^^^^ this is exactly what I do on all of my skis to remount wherever needed. Screw plastic shop plugs.
On my Kusalas i fucked up the mount on one of them and the binding was noticeably crooked.
I pulled the binding and repeated the golf tee / marine epoxy process and redrilled correctly 🤦🏼♂️
Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
Bamboo BBQ sqewers are the right size so you don't need to shave them like golf tees ... works better IME
Quote:
Originally Posted by splat
Pffft, Jigs are cheating. All my mounts (30 years plus) have been free hand over paper templates with just a wood block stop on the bit depth..
A little steel wool in your holes with the epoxy. More comfortable if there is a titanal layer if you are tall/charger, hut as was said: no spin=you win
That's actually what I use because they're so good for mixing epoxy.Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
OK, Tiger, anytime you got a couple hunskis to throw down, I'd be happy to challenge you to a mount contest using no jig or paper.Quote:
Originally Posted by SumJongGuy
For years all I used was the bindings, a sharpie, and tape measure before tapping the holes. Can also use the AFD plate. I wouldn't try that going half over an old hole regardless of how it was filled though.. That's the takeaway..Quote:
Originally Posted by splat
thanks for the bbq skewer tip. That's $$. :yourock:
Been there, done that as well! Attachment 252803Quote:
Originally Posted by splat
FKNA!
That (epoxy) is actually quite critical on skis with carbon on top of the core like most bros and lhasas have.
What epoxy do you use specifically? Like, what do I buy at the store? Thanks for the bbq skewer suggestion - good call!Quote:
Originally Posted by splat
a 24 hr slow set epoxy , the stuff I can get locally is called system Three it may be different for you,
the BBQ skewers are usually available in the supermarket,
It may work out ok for you to drill anywhere but I move the boot center half an inch
I always use slow setting--just don't ski on it for 2 days. Hardman (blue pack) has never failed me. Can't usually get at hardware store, just order from Amazon.Quote:
Originally Posted by meter-man
https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....1XA6sAHt1L.jpg
Why 24hr epoxy vs 1hr epoxy?
back in the day I had some left over 5 min epoxy from a fix so I put it on the end of a WW paddle blade just to see what would happen, it got soft and fell off pretty quick and I never used 5 min again, slow set is stronger more flexible waterproof, you pretty much need to heat a screw up to get it out after using slow set to do a mount
if any screw doesn't wana come, if you don't know what it was mounted with use heat BEFORE you strip the head
1-hour epoxy is brittle and can crack. Moisture can migrate through the cracks.Quote:
Originally Posted by Summit
Long-set epoxy is tougher, will not crack (i.e., more pliable) and waterproof.
All the above.
The other advantage to slow set is when doing inserts---since they have to be spot on lined up with the binding hole. If you need to tweak the insert a bit to get the screw to be lined up b/c you angled in the tap a bit wrong, etc. the slow set allows you some time to curse and contemplate your mistake before setting about correcting it.
I have a pair of skis that have been drilled 1X for Pivots and 1x for FT12s. When I took the P14 off, I filled the holes with plastic. Eventually, I used the skis for a [very] bit of touring. Now, I want to remount P14s and use the old holes. I am out of hole fillers and epoxy, so I walk dow to Canyon Mountain Sports and ask if I can buy some. The ski tech immediately told me that first: there is no way that I can use the same holes, because placing plastic in the holes increases the size of the hole and there would certainly be a failure; second: he told me that in all his years of working as a tech (he is about 23 years old...tops) he has never , and would never use epoxy, because it sucks ass when compared to "special ski glue". He offered plugs, which I gladly took, but not epoxy, and I left with a chuckle.
yeah buddy ^^ is just sour cuz he stripped the head out of a screw that was instaled with 24hr epoxy ... should have used the heat
as long as you can pull out old plugs (use a drywall screw) without damaging the old threads in the ski you can re use an old hole
I'm pretty sure the " special ski glue " they use in a shop is just white wood glue which is just more convenient than mixing up epoxy
I would use good epoxy on them old holes and it should be fine
Thanks for the reassurance. I only posted, because I think that some of these Vail employees are hilarious, in their attitude, in the way they pretend to know everything better and the lengths that they will go to sell you something that is not in your best interest.
Last week, I was skiing down this run (Chicayne) that gets you from Red Pine to Tombstone. The hill was not that crowded, but about 3/4 way down the middle got congested. I was skiing, at a good clip, at the extreme skiers left border. Two Vail "Red Jackets", who are minimum wage information purveyors (as opposed to Yellow Jackets, who are like rent-a-cops), were standing about 3-4 feet from the left border having a conversation. I buzzed by to the left and skied down to the lift. I was waiting for my wife, when one of the Red Jackets skied over to me, told me to take off my skis and threatened to call a patroller and take my pass. Thereafter, the shitshow ensued. F**King Vail...
Man, I saw the thread title and thought this was about nailing old porn stars.....Quote:
Originally Posted by splat
And what others said about removing plastic plugs / reusing holes.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xK_XWH7Ryd4
YES ! Where did all the porn stars end up?
i love this vid
Real unclear wtf is happening in here rn
I can see how that Hardman product reference in a Volvo driving soccer mom thread would fuck you up eh
Splat vs Sumjong in a zero jig mount off. I’m giving Splat 10:1 odds on that. Would love to see video posted from each.
5 minute and 1 hour epoxy both suck, etremely brittle in a short time. I use 3M 4200 marine adhesive or 5200 if I’m feeling especially frisky. Any high grade epoxy or marine epoxy is better than the quick set shit.