PSA: Repair you own fucking edge compression

That is all!

















So with the recent rash of compressions, coupled with my own necessity, after purchasing cheap skinny sticks from a mag, to repair a compression that someone had previously repaired not very well.
Attachment 151374Attachment 151375Attachment 151376Attachment 151377Attachment 151378

Remove epoxy base patch.Attachment 151383

Clamp ski to something so when you hammer it, it does not delam furtherAttachment 151384

Using flat head screwdriver and hammer, use you zen like body man skillzz, to persuade the edge back into straightness.Attachment 151385

Mark width and length of base patchAttachment 151386Attachment 151387

I can only insert 10 images, so to be continued

I had to pry up edge and grind out useless edge screw headsAttachment 151388

Lining up base material for cuttingAttachment 151392

Remove base for your base patch and prep area. I had some space to take up between edge and sidewall, didn't have any glass, so I took a page out of splats book and went with doretech. You can see it under edge in photoAttachment 151391

Mix epoxyAttachment 151394

Heat ski locally, do not heat your pot/cup/whatever of epoxy, your just gonna make it fire quicker. Heat area and do what you need to do to get all components wetted out with epoxy.Attachment 151396

Insert your patch and a barrier so you don't glue to repair plate to your skiAttachment 151397Attachment 151398

Clamp. Then I put mine with a ceramic heater blasting right on repairAttachment 151399Attachment 151400

Christmas morning!Attachment 151401

Attachment 151402

Using a series of files and scrapers(your gonna love my heavy duty scraper)Attachment 151403Attachment 151404

Work the epoxy/edge, base/edge until it is acceptable(just like welds, remove patch material from middle to the edges to clean it up.Attachment 151405Attachment 151406Attachment 151407

One thing to note. The base material I used had a cotton backing that required no extra prep. If you're using straight up UHMWPE without a backing; 80 grit followed by cleaning followed by flame treat.

On another note, I always do a dry run, so I have no surprises when it's layup time.

If any of you use this information in a shop setting to fix a customers skis, you owe me an instruction fee:the_finge

Didn't actually need this reserved space, so I'm gonna use it to tell Roj to fuck off!

Interested in seeing the completion of this....

interested in this, thx for posting it up





(ps, any chance at getting these imgs online so that they're posted inline with the text?)

I tried to do it that way. My computer skills aren't the greatest, that is just how they came out. Sorry.
Also not sure why the pictures are small, fuck.

Solid skillz, well done.

Sweetness.

Saran wrap is a good barrier that epoxy won't cure to.

nice job!!

that finished job looks so much better than my ghetto efforts

Hey, Tuco, well done. One tool I might interest you in for repairs like this is to sand a blade edge at the square end of a file. Those things are tempered strong and that edge makes a killer splitter/scraper for working in those small gaps. Feather it out over an inch or two so it gets thin at the sharp point. It's a nice arrow in the quiver.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dcpnz

nice job!!

that finished job looks so much better than my ghetto efforts

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I was a shop rat for 10 years in a shop known for edge repair/replace. This wasn't my first rodeo.

U fixxor teh sidewallz. I fixxor teh thredz.

Tuco: if you want to just quote my posts, then edit your OP...then a mod could nuke my posts and you have big images up with the OP.

Mods: if OP gets big photos up on the first posts, these can go away.




So with the recent rash of compressions, coupled with my own necessity, after purchasing cheap skinny sticks from a mag, to repair a compression that someone had previously repaired not very well.

http://stk.tetongravity.com/forums/a...4&d=1393339224

http://stk.tetongravity.com/forums/a...5&d=1393339344

http://stk.tetongravity.com/forums/a...6&d=1393339443

http://stk.tetongravity.com/forums/a...7&d=1393339648

http://stk.tetongravity.com/forums/a...8&d=1393339784


Remove epoxy base patch.

http://stk.tetongravity.com/forums/a...3&d=1393340603

Clamp ski to something so when you hammer it, it does not delam further

http://stk.tetongravity.com/forums/a...4&d=1393341295

Using flat head screwdriver and hammer, use your zen like body man skillzz, to persuade the edge back into straightness.

http://stk.tetongravity.com/forums/a...5&d=1393341465

Mark width and length of base patch

http://stk.tetongravity.com/forums/a...6&d=1393341913

http://stk.tetongravity.com/forums/a...7&d=1393342068

I can only insert 10 images, so to be continued

husky latin women

Husky Latin Women

I had to pry up edge and grind out useless edge screw heads

http://stk.tetongravity.com/forums/a...8&d=1393343016

Lining up base material for cutting

http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/a...2&d=1393343457

Remove base for your base patch and prep area. I had some space to take up between edge and sidewall, didn't have any glass, so I took a page out of splats book and went with doretech. You can see it under edge in photo

http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/a...1&d=1393343254

Mix epoxy

http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/a...4&d=1393343830

Heat ski locally, do not heat your pot/cup/whatever of epoxy, your just gonna make it fire quicker. Heat area and do what you need to do to get all components wetted out with epoxy.

http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/a...6&d=1393344319

Insert your patch and a barrier so you don't glue to repair plate to your ski

http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/a...7&d=1393344475

http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/a...8&d=1393344564

Clamp. Then I put mine with a ceramic heater blasting right on repair

http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/a...9&d=1393344727

http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/a...0&d=1393344824

Christmas morning!

http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/a...1&d=1393344989

HUSKY LATIN WOMEN!!!


http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/a...2&d=1393345593

Using a series of files and scrapers(your gonna love my heavy duty scraper)

http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/a...3&d=1393345741

http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/a...4&d=1393345865

Work the epoxy/edge, base/edge until it is acceptable(just like welds, remove patch material from middle to the edges to clean it up.

http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/a...5&d=1393346095

http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/a...6&d=1393346212

http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/a...7&d=1393346382

One thing to note. The base material I used had a cotton backing that required no extra prep. If you're using straight up UHMWPE without a backing; 80 grit followed by cleaning followed by flame treat.

On another note, I always do a dry run, so I have no surprises when it's layup time.

Excellent thread, thanks.

Damn, don't think I fucked YetiMan's improved layout, but if I did, . . . .

thanks for posting this. i feel less nervous about having to fix my apparently fragile board.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dschane

Excellent thread, thanks.

Damn, don't think I fucked YetiMan's improved layout, but if I did, . . . .

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nothing is fucked here:tongue:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by splat

Hey, Tuco, well done. One tool I might interest you in for repairs like this is to sand a blade edge at the square end of a file. Those things are tempered strong and that edge makes a killer splitter/scraper for working in those small gaps. Feather it out over an inch or two so it gets thin at the sharp point. It's a nice arrow in the quiver.

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Thanks man! At first I thought you were going to be mad at my patent infrigement:)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by YetiMan

U fixxor teh sidewallz. I fixxor teh thredz.

Tuco: if you want to just quote my posts, then edit your OP...then a mod could nuke my posts and you have big images up with the OP.

Mods: if OP gets big photos up on the first posts, these can go away.

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Fuck yeah Yeti, that was my intention. If it weren't for this site, my computer skills would even be more archaic.
Maybe I'll just delete my posts, so people think that shitshow of a garage is yours.
Thanks dood!

at some point you can't fix a compression, though, right? doesn't it affect the structural integrity of the ski?

Shoudn't. But that depends on how much damage your core may have incurred with the compression. Fixed quite a few Rossi and Dynastars(foam core in those days) and the 1st generation Salomon monocoque skis.

oh right. EDGE compression. i was thinking something super deep.

Great thread Tuko. Those clamps and ceramic heater look like they came outta my shop..
I like to pry open the delamed edge with a tool like the one Splat suggests then shove toothpicks in the gap to keep it open. Then with the ski on edge i will use a very fine brush to paint the epoxy down into the gap. Pull the toothpicks out being careful not to break the tips off inside then proceed with the rest of the patch. On a larger repair or when adding new edge i will do it in 2 steps. Epoxy and clamp the edge, then clean things up after its set and then epoxy a patch in.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by vanisle

Great thread Tuko. Those clamps and ceramic heater look like they came outta my shop..
I like to pry open the delamed edge with a tool like the one Splat suggests then shove toothpicks in the gap to keep it open. Then with the ski on edge i will use a very fine brush to paint the epoxy down into the gap. Pull the toothpicks out being careful not to break the tips off inside then proceed with the rest of the patch. On a larger repair or when adding new edge i will do it in 2 steps. Epoxy and clamp the edge, then clean things up after its set and then epoxy a patch in.

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Hell yeah man, hopefully we get a bunch of good info here in one resource.
My preferred tool is an oyster shucking knife. I do have something pretty close, it just a little bigger. I insert it between edge and sidewall and pry the delam open and closed, using a toothpick or similar to pick up the epoxy(for small repairs). For bigger use a small mixing cup,like the kind that come with childrens medicine and pour into open delam, all while flashing the heat gun locally on general repair area(not to close or slow) reducing the viscosity of the epoxy. Prying it open and closed works the epoxy into all the crevices. I always try to find a way to do it in one layup, if at all possible.

What ski is that? Pretty sure it's old Movement? Pow Pows? Or Gladiators maybe?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by shirk

What ski is that? Pretty sure it's old Movement? Pow Pows? Or Gladiators maybe?

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Movement Goliath

If you want a brand spanking new pair in the plastic for $179 plus shipping...

http://www.roostoutfitters.com/content/goliath-f09

Old thread, but useful. Bump.

I just repaired a sidewall compression/edge delam on my Volkl 100Eight using the techniques shown here. Thanks to tuco and the others for the details.

Here is the ski heating in my “vise”:
Attachment 219874

Ski is sandwiched between 2x4 and steel plate wrapped in plastic wrap (bottom) and 1x4 on top. It was a bit of a challenge to get the top vice “plate” flat against the top of the ski given the 3D Ridge shape on the ski. The 1x4 flexed enough to not slide off the topsheet.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by spanky

Old thread, but useful. Bump.

I just repaired a sidewall compression/edge delam on my Volkl 100Eight using the techniques shown here. Thanks to tuco and the others for the details.

Here is the ski heating in my “vise”:
Attachment 219874

Ski is sandwiched between 2x4 and steel plate wrapped in plastic wrap (bottom) and 1x4 on top. It was a bit of a challenge to get the top vice “plate” flat against the top of the ski given the 3D Ridge shape on the ski. The 1x4 flexed enough to not slide off the topsheet.

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Cut kerfs into repair plate to facilitate curvature.

This is awesome! Don't have a need but getting tired of everything being thrown away for sometimes minor issues

...even leaning conservative, so much stuff we discard seems to have a relatively easy fix. The're tools not jewels! Cous in-law in from Utah said that this weekend. I personally have over pampered my gear of all sports and heavily discounted it's usefulness for relatively minor flaws...

Next goal to get down to every other week trash pick up. Sounds ridiculous that not only do 2 people discard that much but that it has to be a priority

Attachment 220793

Attachment 220794

^PM'd

Thanks for the thread. Lots of useful procedural and materials tips.

I kinda have a weird one. Bought some used volkl kuros cheap. Received them and noticed huge edge/base compression on one ski behind heel. The impact was severe enough to crack the sidewall into multiple cracks and actually bend the tail of the ski by about 10mm. Looking down the pipe, the ski is not twisted torsionally.

Sooo, i contacted the seller, he was super sorry. Said he got the skis off a buddy, skied em a few times loved em in deep pow and nothing else so sold them and didn't really check them before selling. Anyways, he said he'd take the skis back and refund me the cash if i wanted to.

I really wanna keep the skis cause realistically they're special use and can't see skiing them more than 10 days/season so, any repair that could prevent further compromise of core is all i want. Being a pow ski, i doubt I could feel any on snow difference between damaged/good skis.

Sooo, any tips on what i should do to repair the sidewall and deep dish in the base? If really need be, I can easily rebend the correct camber/rocker shape so that won't be an issue.

Thanks!

Attachment 220952

LT- that's what I thought I was seeing. You could probably get away with epoxying and clamping, but it wouldn't address your base damage. I would remove and patch the rock damage and you can prep the area where the cracked edge is. If you can source some clear base material, it will give you a 'window' into what is happening under your base because that crack will always be a hinge point and you will never be able to fully seal water out.

Remove toe piece. Size up how much of your base need replacement. Cut and remove damaged base, cut your repair base material at same time so patch will fit Clean everything up. Always do a dry run, so you're not trying to figure it out while you have heated epoxy curing. Heat the ski, and with delam opened up like your picture, pour mixed epoxy into delam along the length of it. You're going to use some epoxy for that repair so I would use a small mixing cup(like the kind that comes with childrens medicine). Also be ready for a mess and after you make sure you wet everything out try to wipe up as much epoxy as you can. With wet epoxy in delam, wedge oyster knife(or something similar) into delam and twist, the opening and closing of the delam with drive epoxy all the way in. Then clamp, put in front of heat source and clean up. Of course make sure you read the 1st page of this thread because the directions I just typed are missing the small details:biggrin:

and of course--new outside edge

Phic- That's fixable dude! Very similar to the original repair in this thread. I get to go to work right now but can go over it later.

Sorry for the slow response. Long days right now!

This thread reminds me of how I got a few pair of free skis. Guys would come into the Taos shop with a blown edge and I'd give them a quote and explain the time frame as it's a multi step process to be done correctly. Or since these skis are pretty beat you could just buy a new "sick" pair and be the best skier on the mountain. Most bought new. Then it was do you want me to throw these skis out for you? [emoji3] Some skis were tossed, but I'd fix the decent boards and ride them. Taos, especially the west basin eats skis.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by tuco

Phic- That's fixable dude! !

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One thing that would worry me though is the fact previous owner was not aware of delam and how much water core has seen.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by tuco

One thing that would worry me though is the fact previous owner was not aware of delam and how much water core has seen.

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Yeah exactly...the present owner claims he's only skied em a few huge powder days...but who knows about the o.g. owner. Thanks for the tips Tuco and any other specific advise you could give is much appreciated.

I actually work at a ski tech at a very basic rental shop. No formal training, self taught and a born tinkerer. In the past i've repaired blow out sidewalls and delaminated edges on some rock skis as experiments just using tools/materials I had on hand.

First I would cut out the damaged sidewall and expose the core. Then manually bend and shape the edge to as straight as I could get it. Then epoxy and clamp the edge and any delaminated base and/or cracked core layers. Then scrape off exposed epoxy in sidewall area and roughen with sand paper. Then use my ptex gun with really high density ptex to slowly build up the sidewall to have the repaired area have extra material bulging out compared to the sidewall adjacent fore and aft. Then use a panzer file to file the ptexed repair area flush. Kept the repairs as a rough finish cause they're rock skis.

I used those skis for a few seasons of rock and bush bashing skiing and the damn repair held up so far. Pretty stoked.

However, that was just a "guess and intuition repair". If I don't have access to actual sidewall repair material; in your opinion, would my ghetto fix be a good option for the Volkl Kuro repair.?

As for your original comment above, based on the wear and tear of the skis' appearance (top sheet minimal scratches, base no damage other than compression area, original structure still clean and crisp, edges still factory sharp aside from some oxidation/corrosion and no rock hits just minimal dings/nicks) i really don't suspect that the skis were skied much at all...having said that...they were used in whistler and we all know that whis snow can be waterlogged...

How much free water the core has been exposed to is a true question mark.

I think I'll keep the skis. I don't start ski tech work for a while so in the meantime, i'm just gonna clean and roughen the sidewalls and smear the appropriate epoxy over and into the cracks as a temporary weather seal until i have access to my proper ski shop tools and bench.

Repaired the cracked sidewall on my Kuro's a few days ago. Also bent the tail back to within factory specs. Tail bent easily and held true for last few days of abusive skiing. So did the sidewall repair.

Sidewall: Took a grinder and gouged out maybe 3 mms of the exterior surface of the cracked area. Tilted ski to side and filled the gouged area with shoe goo. Didn't have to construct a 'dam' to retain the shoe goo. It was viscous enough to remain in place. Smeared a bit over the topsheet edge and down around the base edge. Let dry 24 hours. The intention was to temporarily seal the cracked area from the elements and melting snow until I have the time/patience to do a more permanent job. Took utility knife and tried precisely cut material off base/side edge and shaved the sidewall flush...but the knife blade was not "new sharp" and I didn't have spares; so some dried goo remained on top of side edge. I didn't wanna hack at it with a less than sharp blade and chunk out the sidewall. Will have to carve that turkey mo betta later.

Took em out skiing. Beat the shit out of the skis on refrozen wet snow crud, inverted railway tracks and death cookies. Put some time in on roly poly fresh soft cord groomers. Amazed at the edge hold of these fat puppies on 38 degree hard refreeze, even after a good tip to tail detune (I hate sharp edges on any of my skis over 90mm waist) They chattered a bit but not much. Might smear some shoe goo down the tops sheet to lower the resonance frequency of the skis. Also amazed at their soft cord slaying ability. Carved some nice trenches and great pop/energy from turn to turn; powered through end of turns with heel pressure. Not a damp ski but quite stable. The torque required to move these babies side to side put some strain on the knees by the end of the day so definitely will be more focused on using these as my pow quiver selection. But had to give em a thorough test to ensure the repairs held and the bent tail rebend didn't reveal any weird handling quirks.

Rebend of tail/compressed base area: Could not tell the difference in the least from ski to ski. Swapped back and forth to see if outside/inside ski would make a difference. No difference in ski feel/performance.

So, if the shoe goo holds and doesn't delaminate, i'm just gonna run these babies as they are. Might cut away some base material near the compressed edge area and seal with epoxy and fill with ptex gun ptex but at this point, not a priority. I was quite surprised at how tenaciously the shoe goo gripped onto the metal edge...me thinks the bond is good...hopefully lasts long term. We'll see.

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