Taking a fall while gettin' barreled?

Jong first post, greetings TGR. Check the Ur RL thread someday soon for offerings.

However, being Mr. KnowItAll this is even more of a jong first post.

When taking a high speed fall barreled in deep water, do you generally fall relaxed and see where you end up, or do people start swimming hard out of it right away? I have not surfed much, and never deep water and those amazing waves , so I wanted to hear from the actual shaka tradesman. I am trying to compare this to falling at high speed in deep powder. Mahalo,

BTW, My name is Señor Know it all, (please ask me anything). The key to knowing it all is learn something new everyday.

I never fall kook!!!! SO BEAT IT!!!!!






























Got that out of the way.

Most barrels are in pretty shallow water, unless they are huge. That said, I don't think swimming is really a thing one does when get beat by sizable surf. I try to get under the water if I know I am falling, then relax for the wash, as there is not much one can do if you are getting a beat down.

seems like if you have to ask maybe you shouldn't fall in any barrels any time soon

Yeah. Good advice. I won't fall either. rog never does. Or so I hear.

:wookie:

i'll be walkin on water in the am bitches! gonna be on like donkey kong! wind goes offshore in the next coupla hours:)

rog

I'd be more worried about the nose of your stick going through your skull when it gets sucked upwards once you bail.

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Originally Posted by Ottime

I never fall kook!!!! SO BEAT IT!!!!!

Got that out of the way.

Most barrels are in pretty shallow water, unless they are huge. That said, I don't think swimming is really a thing one does when get beat by sizable surf. I try to get under the water if I know I am falling, then relax for the wash, as there is not much one can do if you are getting a beat down.

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I always feel like I want to ride it out if I fall getting barreled slashing hard toeside in the steep deep pow at mach looney, all the time, rather than trying to wolverine hockey stop. Maybe I need to train to be like the wolverine for certain terrain.

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Originally Posted by icelanticskier

:wookie:

i'll be walkin on water in the am bitches! gonna be on like donkey kong! wind goes offshore in the next coupla hours:)

rog

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Who u calling bitch bitch. My buoy is 19.8@17. What u got?

If u wanna ride the 6.0 I'll be tucked way up in town. I got one buddy hiding from the juice there and another who is hoping to fly his kite up north.

At the kiddie park and zoo this morning but I should be back for so e afternoon low tide fun.


Honestly, on any big wipe out the sooner you know your tide is done the better. When you try to hard to make it you are on the surface. And that is when te whole nose throug te skull hole comes in.

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Originally Posted by Ottime

Who u calling bitch bitch. My buoy is 19.8@17. What u got? If u wanna ride the 6.0 I'll be tucked way up in town. I got one buddy hiding from the juice there and another who is hoping to fly his kite up north. At the kiddie park and zoo this morning but I should be back for so e afternoon low tide fun.


Honestly, on any big wipe out the sooner you know your tide is done the better. When you try to hard to make it you are on the surface. And that is when te whole nose throug te skull hole comes in.

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It is the injury thing that brought up this thread, when facing "terra firma" on the mountain wave.

I took a hard fall yesterday doing a beautiful high speed fully committed toe side pow slash in no consequence pow field terrain. I hit some wind buff and because I was slashing toe side at ™Mach Looney, I got decked hard.

I rolled out of it super yoga zen-like, with only a soreness in the upper back from the hit and snow in my goggles. But the split-second during the fall, I had a feeling of THIS IS going to be FUCKING BAD, but was pleasantly surprised when my only care was the snow in my goggles.

Which leads to this thread, "the trying too hard" trying to fight up too quick and getting injured in another way. I appreciate your insight Ottime

Judo might be a good cross training for me.

And certainly my tangent is not intended for consequential no fall terrain (i guess it could be), as my turns in zones of caution are much different. Risk is measured in snow sliding expression depending on the medium you are within.

i would have thought that by the time you were ready to get rolled in a big barrel you would have learned how to fall and at least in principle, what is a better way to "react" given how little you have control of.

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Originally Posted by spook

i would have thought that by the time you were ready to get rolled in a big barrel you would have learned how to fall and at least in principle, what is a better way to "react" given how little you have control of.

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To answer your question, I think people ready and experienced in these types of bigger waves are the people I am reaching out to for comment.
Like Ottime answered, in principle, either are you fighting quickly to the surface or letting it churn you a bit first.

On a snowboard/skating/bowl/halfpipe, you can get in over your head and past your skill level fast. In surfing, of course you can get in over your head, but usually it is within a very well defined linear process of commitment, rite of passage and discipline to touch success and make artistic turns within beautiful waves. This fact is why I posed this humble question here in a journeymen's forum. Surfing is a full-time commitment, not 20-40 days a year seasonal.

I stand corrected. I did fall. In fast, heavy, tubing, racing walls. Getting under the water did help, and in that one I thought I was going to make, and did not, well, I took a beating. OTOH, I surfed some heavy water tubes this morning, and never quite sacked up to pull inside. I was riding more next to the tube, rather than inside it. But I did have a very successful outing, as in no nose through my head, and only one leash climbed.

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Originally Posted by Mr.KnowItAll

To answer your question, I think people ready and experienced in these types of bigger waves are the people I am reaching out to for comment.
Like Ottime answered, in principle, either are you fighting quickly to the surface or letting it churn you a bit first.

On a snowboard/skating/bowl/halfpipe, you can get in over your head and past your skill level fast. In surfing, of course you can get in over your head, but usually it is within a very well defined linear process of commitment, rite of passage and discipline to touch success and make artistic turns within beautiful waves. This fact is why I posed this humble question here in a journeymen's forum. Surfing is a full-time commitment, not 20-40 days a year seasonal.

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i don't think of snowboarding as seasonal, just because it takes me all year to stay in shape for it and i spend all my time thinking about it regardless of season. if i had the financial ability, i'd be where i could ride all year round.

i just assumed that if you took a fall in a big wave, you don't really have much say on what happens until the moment when you might be stronger than the forces that are working you over. like, you're going to get pummeled, so cover your head and wait for the worst to be over and hope you're still alive, and then go for the surface as hard as you can. watching videos of guys eating it in big barrels, i don't see how they could know which way is up until they're done in the spin cycle.

but as i often say, i don't shit about shit.

The one thing you can, and want, to do, is penetrate the water surface, and get down as deep as you can. Some waves (say like chopes) do drive all the way down to the ocean bed, but most just stay mostly near the surface. If you can get down and under the turbulence, it is actually pretty tranquil down there. You wait until it feels like the wave has passed and then quickly climb your leash to the surface. If more are coming, you hyperventilate to get oxygen and then dive straight down and do it all again, and again, and again, until the set has passed. Some breaks you may get on your board and paddle down the line between waves to try and make the channel. Others not. Depends. Long leashes are key in heavy water. Oh, yeah, if you don't get under that turbulence it pretty much is a violent spin cycle. I rarely cover my head though. Might be a good idea, but I can't recall ever having hit anything with my head. Guess I'm lucky. Or dumb. Or both.

Skiing is no longer seasonal here. It ceased to exist in 2013.

I generally ball up, cover my face because I only have one eye, and enjoy the ride. Got cracked on my nose by my board last year when I forgot that, but better than taking one in the peeper.

Though most of the time I surf forgiving point breaks when I travel, or wimpy Florida beachbreaks. Though I did get bounced off the bottom a few times last year in Northern Nicaragua.

Now I understand the avatar. One eye surfing. Fuck. There goes my excuse. When I found out only my left eye focused, I thought that explained every missed wave and in caught ball in my life.

How about a little advice ...


http://youtu.be/iR7V9g7uz2Q

I love that guy. Hit the lip. Whabamm! And then. You get so pitted.

Honestly, after a really good ride, my mind sounds like that. I just don't verbalized it.

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Originally Posted by Ottime

Now I understand the avatar. One eye surfing. Fuck. There goes my excuse. When I found out only my left eye focused, I thought that explained every missed wave and in caught ball in my life.

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And my avatar is my good eye. But yeah no excuse. I suck because I don't surf enough and I'm a wuss.

Tho my sight can be sketch. Have had a couple collisions and lots of near-misses (half my fault; I apologize so profusely people so far have been cool about it).

Don't know if I should be surfing or not, but I like it so whatever. I tend to stay to the less-crowded breaks.

Frontside - punch in and down through the back of the wave. Backside - sit back and put on the brakes.

Now we are talking my fucking language...falling, bailing and getting drilled are my specialty :biggrin:. The close out destruction barrel is my bread & butter here in Orange County and especially @ State Park in San Clemente.

I have found that taking a deep breath, penetrating & getting as deep as you can under the water while relaxing are the best way to get out pretty much unscathed. Bruises, gashes, black eyes, etc..from contact with your board are part of the trade in my opinion (or in my jong world), but yeah, getting drilled in the skull would suck a boner.

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Originally Posted by spook

i would have thought that by the time you were ready to get rolled in a big barrel you would have learned how to fall and at least in principle, what is a better way to "react" given how little you have control of.

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Interesting...I like where you were going with this and it makes sense but I have found that each destruction barrel offers up its own brand of punishment & contortion that cannot be prepared for. Maybe OTT can give a counter point to my obs, but other than just taking what the ocean has to give you and sucking it up, I have found it hard to prepare otherwise.

just my .02

Your obs are about the same as mine. Mostly penetrate and relax. In some sort of manner.

I am curious what the OP means by deep water though. Mavs is a deep water break that can throw a tube. Chopes is a shallow water break that throws a tube. Most tubes I've surfed have more in common with the latter than the former. Meaning, most the barrels I've been in are in shallow water. Although I imagine the same policy of penetrate and relax applies.

I was noticing during the Mavs contest that they did not seem to be going to deep under water when caught inside which seemed interesting. And they are now surfing with shorter leashes as well.

Anyway.

I'd PM kingfisherdude. He seems to know the most about life and how to it. Although, if you are under 14, it would be eat if you wait a few years before approaching this dude. He has his issues.

too funny,,,,,,,, you fags are talkin about how to fall in a barrel????? jajajajaaaaaaaaa,,,,ottime stfu about the kid thing,,,, im not your father you stupid fuck,,,,,,, not I feel better,, back to bed for me its like 130 am here in the maldives,,, I have a 7 am speeboat to catch to another island.

If you don't like hearing the truth, then just go away. Simple. I don't care what your predilection is, or what kind of dirt bag homophobe you are. But you are only here to stir up shit. Get a life. Supposedly you are living the dream, yet find the need to post up at one thirty in the morning to call some people you don't know a bunch of fags. Whatever. Go live your life shit bag. Just stay away from those demons. That shit is pretty fucking sick.

Or, of course, you can ask for forgiveness, admit your sin of acting like a total douche bag, contribute to the community and post some stoke, and pretty much the folks around here will forget about it, and allow you play. Or continue to be a piece of shit troll. I don't care.

And I know you are not my father. He is not stuck thinking it is still the 70s. Get a haircut you aging hippy.

Keala knowsAttachment 150250

Almost posted that photo the other day, it shows the answer to the question. Its situation specific and the type of break you're surfing is the answer.

Shallow coral reef is a game changer for most mortals. Those barrels pitch square and trying to duck dive one of those is sometimes more intimidating cause the reefs runs dry on ya. In general, sllipping out the back of the wave is my preferred, covering my mellon is usually a priority

yeah, the photo is a sobering reminder of what can go wrong, check out the vid, you can see that she gets bucked off the wave head first, in the worst possible way,,
http://youtu.be/toctsPIioJU

It all depends....mostly on how far in advance you know you are going to go down and how heavy the wave is. I live on Oahu and surf all over the Island so falls differ according to each break whether the surf is more recreational or of consequence. In general, no matter what I try to ride as far as possible within the barrel before dismounting as much of the energy can dissipate as you drive further down the line and you can come out when you would not expect to which makes for a "ride of your life". More relaxation is better as you will never overpower a real barreling wave by swimming.

yeah, i know it's not the same but i had my worst wreck by far snowboarding, tomahawking out of control at high speed. the only moment i had any control over was right at the beginning when i ducked my head to take the first roll because after that i might as well have been in one of those g-force rides waiting for the concrete wall to crush my skull with no sense of up or down or anything but white that culminated in breaking my binding plate and shattering the disk.

there was so much rotational force i could only relax. shit was flying out of my pockets.

oh but back to preemptive action and control. my body has been going through various phases of pain and clearly part of it is a result of ducking before the first impact. if i don't duck, i may take that first impact on the top of my head or in my face and who knows.

seems like the art of falling (which i learned very well in other sports) at high speeds or under water is doing what you can at the beginning to improve your chances the rest of the way.

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Originally Posted by kfritz

It all depends....mostly on how far in advance you know you are going to go down and how heavy the wave is. I live on Oahu and surf all over the Island so falls differ according to each break whether the surf is more recreational or of consequence. In general, no matter what I try to ride as far as possible within the barrel before dismounting as much of the energy can dissipate as you drive further down the line and you can come out when you would not expect to which makes for a "ride of your life". More relaxation is better as you will never overpower a real barreling wave by swimming.

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I hear you.

But don't you have waves that become heavier te further down the line you travel?

I guess that would be different. As in you know you will not make a section, as opposed to being in a fall. But sometimes, if I have decision time, I point it toward the shoulder. But if in in a tube, and it is clear I won't make the next section, I might avoid punching it further down the line, if te section I'm missing is fully unloading. Hanalei on Kauai might be an example when there is a lot of west in the swell