Sherpa breaks Everest record

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05-21-2004, 10:04 AM
CaddyDaddy77

Sherpa breaks Everest record

From Journalist Akhilesh Upadhyayh
Friday, May 21, 2004 Posted: 9:45 AM EDT (1345 GMT)

Everest stands a giant 8,850-meters (29,035-feet) tall.

KATHMANDU, Nepal (CNN) -- A Nepalese Sherpa has broken the record for the fastest ascent of Mt. Everest, scaling the world's highest mountain in 8 hours and 10 minutes.

Pemba Dorji Sherpa, 26, surpassed the previous record by more than two hours, reaching the summit at 2:10 a.m. local time on Friday (2015 GMT Thursday), officials said.

The previous record of 10 hours and 46 minutes was set last year by fellow Sherpa, Lakpa Gheylu.

Pemba and Lakpa had been competing against each other to chip away at the record.

Pemba set a new record in May 2003 with a time of 12 hours and 43 minutes but Lakpa beat that effort three days later.

Sherpas are native to the high altitude Himalayan mountains in Nepal and renowned for their mountaineering prowess.

The ascention record has been getting shorter and shorter thanks to climbers being allowed to use ropes and ladders put in place by other climbing teams.

Most climbers take two to three weeks to summit Mt. Everest because they must acclimatize to the lack of oxygen.

Pemba's record is a far cry from the more than seven weeks it took Sir Edmund Hilary and his climbing partner, the late Tenzing Norgay Sherpa, to reach the summit from their base camp on May 29, 1953.

Hillary and Tenzing had to forge their own route without the benefit of modern equipment to become the first men to stand at the top of the world.

The last paragraph got me thinking, is it a true ascent as it's aided by existing ladders, etc??
05-21-2004, 10:13 AM
AntiSoCalSkier

Re: Sherpa breaks Everest record

Quote:

Originally posted by CaddyDaddy77

The last paragraph got me thinking, is it a true ascent as it's aided by existing ladders, etc??

Sure it is. We use previously set bootpacks and skin tracks all the time. Those make it easier, but it's still not easy. It's still a definite accomplishment when you get to the top of the mountain. If they were trying to claim that they were making the fastest "unassisted" acsent, it would be a different story, but it sounds like these guys are just running up the mountain for fun.
05-21-2004, 10:14 AM
Woodsy

Re: Sherpa breaks Everest record

Quote:

Originally posted by CaddyDaddy77

The last paragraph got me thinking, is it a true ascent as it's aided by existing ladders, etc??

you do it & let me know

easier now, yes but people still die there & its 15,000 feet higher than most of us have ever been & I bet most of us still get winded above 12k
05-21-2004, 10:24 AM
CaddyDaddy77

By no means am I trying to discount the feat, it's not something most people can relate to much less to even have a shot at just summiting, much less going for a record. Just curious if Hillary and Tenzing would look at it as the natural evolution of climbing or not.
05-21-2004, 10:58 AM
tywhy

that's unreal. Maybe it's a little easier with the ladders and ropes set, but you can't discount the amazing physical feat this dude accomplished. blows my mind.
05-21-2004, 11:04 AM
iceman

Just think, then he had to come back down. Talk about a long day.
05-21-2004, 11:07 AM
AntiSoCalSkier

This got me thinking. Has anyone ever climbed Everest from sea level? Obviously it would be a REALLY long walk, but it would be a very cool accomplishment.
05-21-2004, 11:17 AM
The Yeti

Bah! I can do it in under three hours. But, "You don't count because you're not human-NO! NO! NO! AUAIAIGAOIUU!" So he's dead. :rolleyes:

That Sherpa is hardcore for a human. To bad the ones that walk by my cave taste gamey.
05-21-2004, 11:21 AM
Platinum Pete

Quote:

Originally posted by AntiSoCalSkier
This got me thinking. Has anyone ever climbed Everest from sea level? Obviously it would be a REALLY long walk, but it would be a very cool accomplishment.

In 1996 Goran Kropp rode his bike from scandinavia to base camp and climbed unassistred to the top, then he pedaled home (with a brief train ride to avoid some war shit).
05-21-2004, 11:22 AM
tywhy

Quote:

Originally posted by AntiSoCalSkier
This got me thinking. Has anyone ever climbed Everest from sea level? Obviously it would be a REALLY long walk, but it would be a very cool accomplishment.

some dude rode his bike from finland (i think) and then climbed to the top.
05-21-2004, 11:22 AM
CS

Regarding, the use of fixed gear: I think in the big mountains, all is fair so the guys use whatever is there. Not to mention it would be impossible to get through some places like the Khumbu (sp?) icefall without ladders.

In other climbing venues, such as speed climbing El Capitan, getting up by means of fixed ropes is greatly frowned upon.
05-21-2004, 11:23 AM
tywhy

Quote:

Originally posted by CS
And probably leave the person dead, if a continuous ascent was tempted.

Regarding, the use of fixed gear: I think in the big mountains, all is fair so the guys use whatever is there. Not to mention it would be impossible to get through some places like the Khumbu (sp?) icefall without ladders.

In other climbing venues, such as speed climbing El Capitan, getting up by means of fixed ropes is greatly frowned upon.

yeah, but there's guys doing first ascents and climbing 8,000 meter peaks without all the ladders and ropes and guides.
05-21-2004, 11:26 AM
CS

Quote:

Originally posted by tywhy
yeah, but there's guys doing first ascents and climbing 8,000 meter peaks without all the ladders and ropes and guides.

Of course, but they aren't doing them in 10 hours.

And the nature of the Khumbu icefall necessitates fixed ladders and ropes, with huge ass crevasses opening and closing all the time.
05-21-2004, 11:29 AM
joshbu

Quote:

Originally posted by tywhy
yeah, but there's guys doing first ascents and climbing 8,000 meter peaks without all the ladders and ropes and guides.

Are there any 8000m peaks left that you would be a first accent on? I don't think so. You could do a new route, but I think all of the 8000+'ers have all already been conquered.
05-21-2004, 12:50 PM
hoarhey

No, there aren't any 8000+ m peaks left that haven't been climbed. Ed Viesturs is leaving Everest Base Camp to try to climb Annapurna.

If he makes it, he will be the first AMERICAN to have climbed the fourteen 8000+m peaks without oxygen. Rheinhold Messner was the first and Ed will be the fifth (or sixth, I think).

Pretty good reading at www.edviesturs.com
If you want a newbie's perspective of climbing everest:
www.annabellebond.com
05-21-2004, 12:52 PM
Dr. Crash

First route, first ascent, they're used interchangeably, as in "the first ascent of the East face of Cerro Torre." There's only one first summit though :). And then there's the first winter ascent etc... There's always a way to be first at something. Even though I regret that a number of all-star sponsored teams now take the mountain under siege and wait for the best opportunity to "break a record" instead of records being set as a side effect of their mountaineering achievements. It's the same in sailing where people wait for the best meteorological window to ride a front, and I'm sure it's the same in many sports. Too bad. We should try our best, and be patient, and leave stuff for the next generations to accomplish.

Regardless of whether this guy jumared up (or however he used the ropes), that is a freaking awesome time. I wonder how much it would take to get the fastest alpine style ascent? It sure won't be done by me...

drC
05-21-2004, 12:59 PM
sandytheskier

That is an amazing time. I can't belive he beat the old time by two hours!
05-21-2004, 01:11 PM
The AD

Quote:

Originally posted by whorehey
If you want a newbie's perspective of climbing everest:
www.annabellebond.com

http://www.annabellebond.com/picts/aboutme4.jpg

Yay! Climbing Betty!
05-21-2004, 01:19 PM
Buzzworthy

Which camp did they ascend from? Sounds like Camp 3 to me at that speed.
05-21-2004, 01:19 PM
MacDaddy

Quote:

Originally posted by The AD
http://www.annabellebond.com/picts/aboutme4.jpg

Yay! Climbing Betty!

BETTY?

I would say smoking hot VIXEN!!!:eek: :eek:

WOW !!!

does a gurl like that like boys??
05-21-2004, 03:20 PM
Dr. Crash

Pssst!

[whisper]Hey, MacDaddy. Look over here too![/whisper]

http://www.aracelisegarra.com/anuncios/intima/g/2.jpg

Different style, but yes, plenty of gorgeous ladies climbing around.

drC
05-21-2004, 05:48 PM
Mountainman

Props to those Sherpas and everything about them and their culture.
05-21-2004, 05:51 PM
Mountainman

Re: Pssst!

Quote:

Originally posted by Dr. Crash
[whisper]Hey, MacDaddy. Look over here too![/whisper]

http://www.aracelisegarra.com/anuncios/intima/g/2.jpg

Different style, but yes, plenty of gorgeous ladies climbing around.

drC

Damn she's good looking in Everest IMAX
05-22-2004, 08:07 PM
Will

Quote:

Originally posted by Buzzworthy
Which camp did they ascend from? Sounds like Camp 3 to me at that speed.

Nope, basecamp.
05-23-2004, 07:50 AM
mntlion

what is the elevations change from that?
17,000 ish at base to 28,000 at summit? in 8 hours?

most hikers go at 1000/ft per hour at reg pace with packs at NORMAL elevation. This is 1200ft/hour at WAY TO HIGH.

Very well done guys
05-23-2004, 10:36 AM
Theodore

Base is 17,600, summit is 29035
05-23-2004, 11:16 AM
bdog

Quote:

Originally posted by CS
.

In other climbing venues, such as speed climbing El Capitan, getting up by means of fixed ropes is greatly frowned upon.

However, as in Lynn Hill's record on the Nose and others, all gear is pre placed. this does not take away from the accomplisment. it is just a different style of climbing. 10 hours to the top of the world from base camp is fucking runnin'! Well done!
05-24-2004, 01:13 AM
G

everytime I look at this thread title, I see:

"SheRa breaks Everest record"

:eek: