Help--Thule roof box won't open, holds skis hostage

I finally did open it, but had to use a wrench to turn the key the last quarter turn--and put a pretty good bend into the key, making me think this thing is going to break off in the lock if I have to do that again.
I believe this happens because there are these long metal bars inside the box that are supposed to move when you turn the key, but the bars bend out of shape sometimes and won't move freely through the guides.
Considering just drilling holes in the box so I can use padlocks to keep the thing shut...anyone else dealt with this sort of problem before??

mine started getting sticky, a little wd-40 sprayed all over the mechanism and it works again

I read this either here on TGR or elsewhere (and it helped):
Just bang/slap your hand on the top of the box as you are turning the key. I ain't no engineer, so I don't know why this works, but it did the trick.

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Originally Posted by laseranimal

mine started getting sticky, a little wd-40 sprayed all over the mechanism and it works again

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:nonono2: WD40 is really bad for locks.

WD40 is really bad for locks.[/QUOTE]

why?

My guess is that dust and dirt will stick to the wd40 and any residue it leaves behind. The same would probably hold true for any petroleum based product.

Mine just started doing the same thing.
Bars on one side are bending not sliding. The lock is really hard to turn if the skis inside the box are resting up against the metal bars, keeping them from bending. Banging the side sometimes helps and my tule opens on both sides so I just go to the other side if the one side is really stuck. I am going to try WD40 on the bars, not the lock, and see if it helps. Anyone else have any thoughts.

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Originally Posted by PNWbrit

:nonono2: WD40 is really bad for locks.

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This is true.

Powered graphite is better.

x2 on powdered graphite.

I have the same problem with my box... if you push in the side slightly as you're turning the key, or hit the top of the box, or press the two halves together tighter at the seam, I have had good results. sometimes you'll need to try both sides several times with different methods... also, try to shake the box around a bit, or (while driving) take a really hard turn in the opposite direction of the stuck lock; your quiver will bounce happily to that side, freeing up those bars. :D

Plus, people will have no idea what you're doing; keep 'em guessing.

remove the lock(s) and soak them in a cup of diesel overnight. works amazing with padlocks also. water dispersant formula #40 is thin enough where sand and dust really wont stick to whatever it is you are trying to lubricate, BUT in cold weather WD seems to loose some of its lubricating properties quickly. Heavier greases are what really collect dust/grit/sand ect..

EDIT: did a bit of research and have used this spray shit that comes out grey on lashings exposed to drastic envireonmental changes, called molycoat or molydi-sulphide or some shit. If it is the same as powdered graphite(which i think it is) thats probably means= powdered graphite x3.

white lightning bike lube works great, drip it on all of the bars, exercise the mechanism, the solvent component dries pretty quickly and you are left with a paraffin coating which won't attract as much crap as WD40. I wouldn't spray the locks, that's not your problem.

i've had same issues x2- agreed wd will attract dust, but works for awhile-
solution for me was: problem- it's the alu bars inside that are binding. blow out behind bars (especially first 18" either side of lock) at carwash, steamcleaner, air compressor. then wipe down/let dry. then lube w/the best spray lube you can find- behind the bars and in/around the lock itself. silicon spray or graphite (slip plate?) works well. silicon worked best for me, wd in a pinch. repeat every 18 mnths. worked for me...

i've had the same issue, i even broke my key off in the lock, just smash it a bunch and curse at it, that seems to open it for some reason. also some type of lube, my locksmith recommended some shit with teflon in it a while back.

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Originally Posted by bluespark

why?

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Almost no lubricant content and what it does have leaves sticky residue which attracts dirt and fucks locks. In fact it's almost useless for almost all purposes.

Chain lube is really good if you cant get locksmith type graphite spray lube or in a pinch grate the "lead" of a pencil onto the key and work the lock.

A triumph of marketing over quality.

I put my Evolution box on my buddies 4runner for a trip up to VT and left my keys at my buds house. We had to twist the lock stub with vice grips to get it open which broke the locking mechanism so now it won't lock shut.

I now have to use bungies on it to make sure it doesn't open at speed. Truely ghetto. I'm trying to figure out a more descrete way to keep it closed and locked. I think I'm going to drill holes on the side and use small padlocks.

I think you guys are stuffing your boxes with too much shit.

I wasn't referring to the lock

I sprayed the two areas where the latch closes and the mechanism that moves it, not the lock itself

sorry if I wasn't clear

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Originally Posted by Benny Profane

I think you guys are stuffing your boxes with too much shit.

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What Benny said. The only time I've ever had a problem turning the key is when I've had the box packed. What happens is something (normally your bindings) gets pushed up against the bars and the friction makes it really hard for them to slide.

So, all you have to do is bang downwards on the top of the box right over the key mechanism. The key will turn with every bang, and it'll be open in next to no time.

Also, WD-40 is NOT designed to be a stay on lubricant. It should never be used as such. It's acts as a sort solvent for cleaning parts (ie. loosening rust on a bolt) and as a water displacement solution. It's does an ok job on the former (there's much better stuff out there) and a great job on the latter. One of the main reasons it's so good at water displacement is because it's designed to evaporate...and leave nothing behind. No water, no dust, no dirt, and definitely not a lubricating layer. So don't ever use it for a stay on lubricant. It's the worst thing you can choose.

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Originally Posted by Benny Profane

I think you guys are stuffing your boxes with too much shit.

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I am sure you are correct. I am putting too much in my box, as my junk is Monster, but what does that have to do with tule being stuck?:D


I used some” Wrench Force Slippery Spray” (4 way bicycle lube) on the sliding aluminum bars after getting home early this afternoon (Fucking Red Lodge lost power again today all lifts shut down). It has helped significantly with the functioning.

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Originally Posted by Arty50

The only time I've ever had a problem turning the key is when I've had the box packed.

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I've installed many dozens of these things, empty, brand spanking new out of a cardboard box. I've looked really, really dumb in front of plenty of customers banging on their new box to get the thing open. Oh, and last month I had one the key wouldn't turn at all in on one side. Turns out the geniuses had installed different lock cylinders on each side...

You combine mediocre quality control with a sort-of-retarded design and then cram it full of stuff and definitely have problems, though you might have problems for any one of those reasons. I'm a big fan of lubing the bars inside the box. I'm also a big fan of throwing an outdoor carpet remnant up there, and using a couple adjustable bungees I keep tied to the far side to hold stuff from sliding left and right.

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I now have to use bungies on it to make sure it doesn't open at speed. Truely ghetto. I'm trying to figure out a more descrete way to keep it closed and locked. I think I'm going to drill holes on the side and use small padlocks.

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Go for it. I've ghetto rigged a couple old boxes in this way and they've ended up working better than new...

Thule has greatly improved the attachment system, but they've recently made the lock system even more retarded. Same dumb thin bar setup, but now they've put nice big plastic covers over the keys. They look nice and work well with a gloved hand, but they also give you a ton more torque to break the key off in the lock when, surprise, the thing won't turn freely.

I still say too much shit. And then jamming the friggin lock closed instead of being a little subtle and rearranging said shit. Wah-lah! bent lock mechanism.

The only thing I really worry about is ice storms. If I don't have de-icer.

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Originally Posted by PNWbrit

Almost no lubricant content and what it does have leaves sticky residue which attracts dirt and fucks locks. In fact it's almost useless for almost all purposes.

Chain lube is really good if you cant get locksmith type graphite spray lube or in a pinch grate the "lead" of a pencil onto the key and work the lock.

A triumph of marketing over quality.

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No, WD40 does exactly what it is supposed to do. It is a DEgreaser. It has no lubricating properties, it just removes certain types of gunk. Works well for cleaning out old grease before applying powdered graphite, etc.

I've used Bike Aid on stuck/sticky things with great success. I'm sure it would work great for this application also. It penetrates deep, it actually "wicks". Your LBS could order it through QBP.

Bike Aid ® (also known as Dri-Slide), a multi-purpose lubricant made by Lilly Industries, that coats and protects better than any other commercial substance. Unlike other oil based lubricants, which attract harmful particulates that can cause damage, Bike Aid goes on wet but stays on dry. Made from a naturally occurring ore similar to graphite, Bike Aid (Molybdenum Disulfides or MoS2) is ideal for cables and other key mechanical pivot points. Avoid downtime and replacement costs, by using the first choice of professionals—Bike Aid.

Features & Choices:

Bike Aid is a petroleum based liquid medium that can be applied to virtually any surface needing lubrication.

Goes on wet but dries to leave a long lasting film that resists wear, water, dirt and other harmful UV elements.

Because it goes on in liquid form, Bike Aid can penetrate deep down into the smallest spaces.

Because Bike Aid is a dry film lubricant, it may be used in extreme environmental conditions.

Withstands pressure up to 100,000 pounds per square inch.

Bike Aid can even help restore worn or corroded parts.

The perfect lubricant for all general and household uses.

Caution: Bike Aid can stain fabrics.

http://www.ironbraid.com/products/drislide.jpg

Mine was so frozen today that de-icer did not work. I used that, the old lighter-key trick, hitting the box all over, nothing.
I had to get out the extension cord and take my roomates hairdryer to it for ten minutes before it would open....

im just here to post that im glad you guys know what the WD in WD40 stands for

a slap on the back for anyone who can tell me who invented it and for what purpose
no cheating!

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Originally Posted by pechelman

a slap on the back for anyone who can tell me who invented it and for what purpose
no cheating!

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Saw something on the tele about it - was invented by the folks at NASA. Not sure of the exact purpose.

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Originally Posted by pechelman

im just here to post that im glad you guys know what the WD in WD40 stands for

a slap on the back for anyone who can tell me who invented it and for what purpose
no cheating!

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I seem to recall it had something to with the Atlas missile project in the early 1950's. No idea who invented it though....

Water Displacer...

I think that the problem is not with the locks. Here is what I just sent Thule. They need to design a change or retrofit kit to help us all out.

I am on my second Thule evolution box. Both (first returned to REI at your urging) have had the same problem: During cold weather the key lock opening device becomes VERY hard to turn and one in a while won't turn at all. The problem goes away as the temperature gets warmer.

I'm no engineer but my diagnosis is: The delta of coefficient of thermal expansion is too great between the aluminum rods that connect the three lock points and the overall plastic housing. You can see (should you get the box open) the aluminum rods bowing in toward the inside of the box as the box has gotten shorter as the temp has gone down. When you open the box during warm weather the rods are flat against the side of the box.

It looks like in the design you tried to accommodate this with the slots where the plates are riveted to the plastic box to allow movement. The problem is that the rivets are too tight to allow any movement.

So, I like the box and don't want to return another but I really can't live with my primary ski toting device being unopenable in cold weather. Do you have a fix? Do you want me to return it?
I look forward to hearing from you.

Mark

I had the exact same problem. Just throw a bunch of lube in the hinge, WD-40 worked just fine for me and you should be all set. If you can get the key turned to lock the box, it means that the rods aren't bent you just have a lubricant-needing hinge

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Originally Posted by pechelman

im just here to post that im glad you guys know what the WD in WD40 stands for

a slap on the back for anyone who can tell me who invented it and for what purpose
no cheating!

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I tried but then I cheated

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Originally Posted by mmac

I think that the problem is not with the locks. Here is what I just sent Thule. They need to design a change or retrofit kit to help us all out.

I am on my second Thule evolution box. Both (first returned to REI at your urging) have had the same problem: During cold weather the key lock opening device becomes VERY hard to turn and one in a while won't turn at all. The problem goes away as the temperature gets warmer.

I'm no engineer but my diagnosis is: The delta of coefficient of thermal expansion is too great between the aluminum rods that connect the three lock points and the overall plastic housing. You can see (should you get the box open) the aluminum rods bowing in toward the inside of the box as the box has gotten shorter as the temp has gone down. When you open the box during warm weather the rods are flat against the side of the box.

It looks like in the design you tried to accommodate this with the slots where the plates are riveted to the plastic box to allow movement. The problem is that the rivets are too tight to allow any movement.

So, I like the box and don't want to return another but I really can't live with my primary ski toting device being unopenable in cold weather. Do you have a fix? Do you want me to return it?
I look forward to hearing from you.

Mark

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I work for a store that carries Thule and you've got it right.

We had this problem all the time on the Evolution series of boxes, especially in cold weather. The problem is almost always with the bars bending, not the locks themselves.

Thule's solution to this problem was to warranty the boxes most of the time (all North American Thule boxes come with a lifetime warranty if they were purchased in the past few years). We also fixed a few with replacement aluminum bars and new rivets.

At least in Canada, this issue is very well known at Thule and they don't hesitate to fix the problem if you have your receipt and you take it to a licensed dealer.

I haven't seen any Atlantis, Ascent, or Spirit boxes come back with this problem, it seemed to die with the Evolution line.

Please don't put WD-40 in your Thule locks. That makes me sad.

I broke a key off in my lock the other day, it was frozen, I tried "babying" it, to make sure a I didn't break it off, but sure enough I managed to break off the tip. I got my skis out by using the other side.( mine opens from either side) My question is, how do you change the cylinder out when the key is broke off in it ? I thought I could replace the whole lock from the inside, but the way it is designed, I can't get a wrench or pliers on it. Do you have to drill it out, take it to a locksmith, or can the Thule dealer change it out? any advice?

WD is an acronym for Water Displacing and 40 is the 40th concoction the engineer tried

actualy if your ignition gets drowned out it will displce the water and your engine will start ,also good for removing label sticky goo , might be a good thing to displace water from a lock but then relube it right away

My box has about a dozen cracks in it ,pretty easy to repair with good quality stickers ,slow set epoxy/ fibreglass cloth ,pop rivets

I am betting a good lock smith could fix it for ya ,i took out the lock and had a new key cut back in the day and it was a fiat blank they cut a new one from

A buddy of mine straps the whole box down to the bars with the lid shut with a thule strap and the worst part of it ,we were a thule dealer... man

Shit, I wish mmac would post a follow up. Those boxes are crazy--I just put mine back on, and live in fear of the -10 degree day when I end up at the mountain with every fucking ski and pole inaccessible. I also concluded that it was the bars bowing that makes it impossible to open--solutions? If you have a person at either end pulling on the box (to 'lengthen' it) would that help?

Actually, I'm not sure that the bars bow because of the box itself shortening--I thought they just started bending when it got cold (and aren't there two bars next to each other?).

I was going to suggest remounting it just to make sure there is no torque on the thing. Mind you I have a couple of 2x4s mounted into mine for racks to lay the skis on and keep things in order. They likely also maintain the shape of the lower box better assuring the upper can open and close on top of it properly.

Put a hasp on and use a small padlock. Replace the old lock with a handle to operate the bars. Something you can get ahold of and crank on.

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Originally Posted by ARpowhound

I broke a key off in my lock the other day, it was frozen, I tried "babying" it, to make sure a I didn't break it off, but sure enough I managed to break off the tip. I got my skis out by using the other side.( mine opens from either side) My question is, how do you change the cylinder out when the key is broke off in it ? I thought I could replace the whole lock from the inside, but the way it is designed, I can't get a wrench or pliers on it. Do you have to drill it out, take it to a locksmith, or can the Thule dealer change it out? any advice?

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What box model do you have?

If there's any of the key sticking out, pull it out with pliers and hopefully the innards of the lock will all be intact. If there's not enough key sticking out, you can either have a locksmith take the broken piece out ($$$$$) or drill out the entire lock core and replace it (though you risk damaging the lock housing which is a huge bastard to replace). Hopefully you are near a decent dealer who will order you a matching lock core to the one you have on the other side.

Were you using pliers or something else for leverage when it happened? If it was just your hand you could probably get a dealer to do the work under the Thule warranty if your box qualifies, which would save you buying the replacement lock core if it came down to that.

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Originally Posted by Dexter Rutecki

Shit, I wish mmac would post a follow up. Those boxes are crazy--I just put mine back on, and live in fear of the -10 degree day when I end up at the mountain with every fucking ski and pole inaccessible. I also concluded that it was the bars bowing that makes it impossible to open--solutions? If you have a person at either end pulling on the box (to 'lengthen' it) would that help?

Actually, I'm not sure that the bars bow because of the box itself shortening--I thought they just started bending when it got cold (and aren't there two bars next to each other?).

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Which box have you got?

Normally the bar mechanism inside can be replaced (sometimes under warranty depending on your specific case). I don't think there's anything you can do yourself to fix it, aside from letting the box warm up, heh.

And for anyone considering getting a Yakima box to avoid this problem, we just had an enormous order of Yakima boxes come in where one latch on either side won't release in cold weather. Love the extra security!

Thankfully we also got some LoPro's (http://www.yakima.com/racks/cargo/bo...box-lopro.aspx) and they have a new latch system that uses a tubular bar that turns with the handle, along with much better metal latch points. With any luck this will become the new industry standard.