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i searched, didnt find any definate answers....
bottom line I have never mounted skis myself before....and the shop said it would cost 50 bucks to get them to do it....50 bucks i would rather spend on a drill and learn how to do it myself....i need to shed my jongish ski tech skills...
i mean is it really hard? for my first mount will i have major trouble doing this? even with the correct drill bits and stuff? i dont have a template either...
signed,
ski tech jong
:rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :nonono2: :nonono2: :nonono2: :nonono2:
The lawyers love people like you...
Go for it:
http://www.wildsnow.com/articles/fri...-freeride.html
Post pics when done.
It's not that hard. You should be able to acquire a paper jig for free rides or talk a bro at the shop to throw the jig on the ski and mark your pattern w/ a nail set. Once centered its pretty much gravy. Tap your screws in topsheet quality glue etc.
The first year spats came out, dude rolls into the shop w/ Damirs halfed scewed into the weird plastic riser/topsheet. "Got a screwdriver I can use brobra?" "Ah yeah but its gonna take slightly more than that." "Pow day. Wish we could hook you up. Gots to have Prioraties".
Never mounted or ridden them myself. Not sure of specs? 120 skins w/ a little trimming would work.
Wondered myself does the sidecut affect your ability to edge in steep icey terrain?
If you do it your self "Measure Twice Cut/ Drill once" Bob Villa. Double or triple check all your steps and you should be golden.
Skinning in those doesnt seem like it would be that pleasant. The cat in TR's vid was motering along on the DB's though.
Wildsnow for paper jig? a t square or 2 helps centering.
thanks....bottom line is i can skin pretty fast on my regular setup....the freerides will lighten the overall setup, and anything real steep ill have em on my back going up....they just destroy corn and slush way to much to not take em in the BC now...
I'd suggest using a drill press. If you can't get to a drill press, use a NEW, SHARP bit. I didn't, and it sucked.
Why you want to skin on skis that weigh 12 pounds is a different story altogether.
DBs weigh about as much as my R:EXs. No comparison to spatulas.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sphinx
cause i have a serious disorder where i am addicted to spatulation, and like skiing steeps with em....and they will be kickass trailbreakers in fresh snow...
Do it. Seriously.
Rando bindings are sooo easy.
I would recomend borrowing a template (one of your buddies has one lying around) or buying a template (the plastic sticker ones that come with the bindings).
the main reason is that it will make it easier for you to set the boot center for your boots.
Search function for Spat mounting (drill size, tapping, etc) - get a Cobalt drill bit and use a center punch (or a big nail as a center punch) to start the holes.
Lou's guide is good, but I would get a real template - the one he links to does not have boot centers marked on it.
Also, do one ski before the other.
Also, drill the heel piece after the toepiece is mounted (to confirm that everything lines up OK).
Don't do your first binding mount on Spats. THey're the hardest ski to mount hands down.
yeah, im not doing it...ill fuck it up
Good luck.
Mounting Volants, SUCK!
Yes, long time reader, first time poster... If you live near Albuquerque I would mount them for you. I still have access to my shop. I mounted three pair of spats with freerides this winter. Oh ya, freehand / paper jig.
no, i'm doing mine...the shop'll fuck it upQuote:
Originally Posted by MOHSHSIHd
.
Yeah, a first ever mount on a pair of Volants is quite a way to learn, especially spats where you cant slap a jig on...
phishy - look at the link I posted above -- gives a guide to DIY mounting, and also for a paper template for Freerides. About as easy as it gets. Drilling the Volant topskin will be the toughest thing for you to do.
i bet spats are KILLER for cross hill skinning on early morning ice.
If you've never mounted before, best thing is to get a pair of dumpster skis (can be straight sticks) and practice it first.
The template that comes with the Diamirs and Freerides is your friend. It's way easier than using the ones on wildsnow.
I mounted mine myself, but not to Volants. Here's what I did. Don't do this yourself, because you might die. I disclaim all responsibility for what happens if you do what I did.
Equipment:
-T-square
-Long metal ruler (the one in the T-square works fine if it's big enough
-Awl
-Gaffer tape, masking tape, or Scotch tape in a pinch
-Grease pencil (regular pencil will work but not as well)
-The official Fritschi template that should be in the box with your bindings
-A long piece of string, or tape in a pinch
-Drill, bit, electrical tape, etc. as per article on wildsnow
Steps:
-Measure boots.
-Find boot center mark. Draw line across skis at boot center mark. A T-square is very handy for this.
-Put template on skis, approximately at boot center mark. Mark topsheet just ahead of toepiece and behind heelpiece.
-Use T-square and pencil to mark exact center of skis at toepiece and heelpiece marks from previous step. Note: You CANNOT assume the topsheet graphic is centered, or consistent from ski to ski.
-Use long metal ruler to draw vertical line down the center of the ski, between the two center marks. You actually only need to draw the top and bottom parts of the line.
-Center the Fritschi template on the ski, using the boot center mark, the boot length and binding size from the Fritschi template, and the two center lines you drew. Make sure it is taut and flat. Tape it down with tape that comes off easily.
-Use the awl to punch a guide hole at each of the holes on the template.
-Drill the toepiece holes. See the article on wildsnow for details on drilling holes, I'm too lazy to type them again.
-Install the toepiece but don't tighten the screws.
-Verify that the bar is centered and comes down in the right place. If not, you screwed up. Figure out where the bar does come down, put the heelpiece there, and make some new guide holes.
-Using the string or tape, pull the binding to full vertical and attach it to the tip of the ski so that you can get to where the heelpiece should go in.
-Drill the heelpiece holes.
-Install the heelpiece (the heel elevator thing). Don't tighten the screws yet.
-Make sure everything comes together as it should, including the heel when elevated.
-Tighten the heelpiece.
-Tighten the toe piece. It's tough to make sure it stays straight while you do this: it may take you a couple tries.
-Make sure everything still comes together right. You've got about a millimeter of clearance, which is why you have to keep checking.
-Woohoo! You're set. Now do the other one.
-If you're feeling industrious, you can pull the screws, glue or epoxy the holes, and put everything back in. (I haven't, yet.)
Best Disclaimer Ever.Quote:
Originally Posted by Spats
im in the process of doing this....cant justify spending the money to get it done, and it will give me something to work on
i have what many will think is a hyper jong question, but how in the hell to i get to the screws to remove the p12 heelpiece? i can see two under the brake....i know i can get at them if i take apart the brake, but is there another way to do this? I must be missing something obvious...
Unscrew the heelpiece completely off the track (like "loosening" the setting for your boot sole length). It'll come off, exposing the screws that mount the track to the ski.Quote:
Originally Posted by MOHSHSIHd
Quote:
Originally Posted by El Chupacabra
tried that, wouldnt come off.....weird, thats what i thought was right, but once the heelpiece gets to the end of the track it just wont come off....ill have to try again
EDIT: hahahaha, i am the dumbest person alive, it came off so easily
drilling holes in spats free hand is a VERY stressful process....i feel like i am drilling into the skull of my own child, trying not to hit the brain....
Especially when I'm using Trekkers :D That was some touchy skinning.Quote:
Originally Posted by snorkeldeep
Very funny and accurate comment.Quote:
Originally Posted by MOHSHSIHd
I feel that way drilling titinal skis.
Drilling stainless is slow, so I can only imagine the combined horror of drilling a spat.
Dont push too hard with the drill. light presssure should be enough.
Cobalt drill bits are the only thing that work well on stainless (e.g. stay sharp enough to be useful).
Other than buying a depth restrictive device, the only advice I could share is to brace the drill on your body if possible.
If you can, stand over the ski/drill and brace your arms or drill against your ribcage to apply the needed pressure. Once the bit breaks through, its easier to resist plunging through the bottom of the ski.
Conversely, if you are pushing down with arms only, and arms are away from the body, it may be harder to resist once you punch through.
Not fully sure of the reasons, but this method does give lots more control.
Hope this helps.