PSA: Repair you own fucking edge compression

That is all!

















So with the recent rash of compressions, coupled with my own necessity, after purchasing cheap skinny sticks from a mag, to repair a compression that someone had previously repaired not very well.
Attachment 151374Attachment 151375Attachment 151376Attachment 151377Attachment 151378

Remove epoxy base patch.Attachment 151383

Clamp ski to something so when you hammer it, it does not delam furtherAttachment 151384

Using flat head screwdriver and hammer, use you zen like body man skillzz, to persuade the edge back into straightness.Attachment 151385

Mark width and length of base patchAttachment 151386Attachment 151387

I can only insert 10 images, so to be continued

I had to pry up edge and grind out useless edge screw headsAttachment 151388

Lining up base material for cuttingAttachment 151392

Remove base for your base patch and prep area. I had some space to take up between edge and sidewall, didn't have any glass, so I took a page out of splats book and went with doretech. You can see it under edge in photoAttachment 151391

Mix epoxyAttachment 151394

Heat ski locally, do not heat your pot/cup/whatever of epoxy, your just gonna make it fire quicker. Heat area and do what you need to do to get all components wetted out with epoxy.Attachment 151396

Insert your patch and a barrier so you don't glue to repair plate to your skiAttachment 151397Attachment 151398

Clamp. Then I put mine with a ceramic heater blasting right on repairAttachment 151399Attachment 151400

Christmas morning!Attachment 151401

Attachment 151402

Using a series of files and scrapers(your gonna love my heavy duty scraper)Attachment 151403Attachment 151404

Work the epoxy/edge, base/edge until it is acceptable(just like welds, remove patch material from middle to the edges to clean it up.Attachment 151405Attachment 151406Attachment 151407

One thing to note. The base material I used had a cotton backing that required no extra prep. If you're using straight up UHMWPE without a backing; 80 grit followed by cleaning followed by flame treat.

On another note, I always do a dry run, so I have no surprises when it's layup time.

If any of you use this information in a shop setting to fix a customers skis, you owe me an instruction fee:the_finge

Didn't actually need this reserved space, so I'm gonna use it to tell Roj to fuck off!

Interested in seeing the completion of this....

interested in this, thx for posting it up





(ps, any chance at getting these imgs online so that they're posted inline with the text?)

I tried to do it that way. My computer skills aren't the greatest, that is just how they came out. Sorry.
Also not sure why the pictures are small, fuck.

Solid skillz, well done.

Sweetness.

Saran wrap is a good barrier that epoxy won't cure to.

nice job!!

that finished job looks so much better than my ghetto efforts

Hey, Tuco, well done. One tool I might interest you in for repairs like this is to sand a blade edge at the square end of a file. Those things are tempered strong and that edge makes a killer splitter/scraper for working in those small gaps. Feather it out over an inch or two so it gets thin at the sharp point. It's a nice arrow in the quiver.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dcpnz

nice job!!

that finished job looks so much better than my ghetto efforts

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I was a shop rat for 10 years in a shop known for edge repair/replace. This wasn't my first rodeo.

U fixxor teh sidewallz. I fixxor teh thredz.

Tuco: if you want to just quote my posts, then edit your OP...then a mod could nuke my posts and you have big images up with the OP.

Mods: if OP gets big photos up on the first posts, these can go away.




So with the recent rash of compressions, coupled with my own necessity, after purchasing cheap skinny sticks from a mag, to repair a compression that someone had previously repaired not very well.

http://stk.tetongravity.com/forums/a...4&d=1393339224

http://stk.tetongravity.com/forums/a...5&d=1393339344

http://stk.tetongravity.com/forums/a...6&d=1393339443

http://stk.tetongravity.com/forums/a...7&d=1393339648

http://stk.tetongravity.com/forums/a...8&d=1393339784


Remove epoxy base patch.

http://stk.tetongravity.com/forums/a...3&d=1393340603

Clamp ski to something so when you hammer it, it does not delam further

http://stk.tetongravity.com/forums/a...4&d=1393341295

Using flat head screwdriver and hammer, use your zen like body man skillzz, to persuade the edge back into straightness.

http://stk.tetongravity.com/forums/a...5&d=1393341465

Mark width and length of base patch

http://stk.tetongravity.com/forums/a...6&d=1393341913

http://stk.tetongravity.com/forums/a...7&d=1393342068

I can only insert 10 images, so to be continued

husky latin women

Husky Latin Women

I had to pry up edge and grind out useless edge screw heads

http://stk.tetongravity.com/forums/a...8&d=1393343016

Lining up base material for cutting

http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/a...2&d=1393343457

Remove base for your base patch and prep area. I had some space to take up between edge and sidewall, didn't have any glass, so I took a page out of splats book and went with doretech. You can see it under edge in photo

http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/a...1&d=1393343254

Mix epoxy

http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/a...4&d=1393343830

Heat ski locally, do not heat your pot/cup/whatever of epoxy, your just gonna make it fire quicker. Heat area and do what you need to do to get all components wetted out with epoxy.

http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/a...6&d=1393344319

Insert your patch and a barrier so you don't glue to repair plate to your ski

http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/a...7&d=1393344475

http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/a...8&d=1393344564

Clamp. Then I put mine with a ceramic heater blasting right on repair

http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/a...9&d=1393344727

http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/a...0&d=1393344824

Christmas morning!

http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/a...1&d=1393344989

HUSKY LATIN WOMEN!!!


http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/a...2&d=1393345593

Using a series of files and scrapers(your gonna love my heavy duty scraper)

http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/a...3&d=1393345741

http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/a...4&d=1393345865

Work the epoxy/edge, base/edge until it is acceptable(just like welds, remove patch material from middle to the edges to clean it up.

http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/a...5&d=1393346095

http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/a...6&d=1393346212

http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/a...7&d=1393346382

One thing to note. The base material I used had a cotton backing that required no extra prep. If you're using straight up UHMWPE without a backing; 80 grit followed by cleaning followed by flame treat.

On another note, I always do a dry run, so I have no surprises when it's layup time.

Excellent thread, thanks.

Damn, don't think I fucked YetiMan's improved layout, but if I did, . . . .

thanks for posting this. i feel less nervous about having to fix my apparently fragile board.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dschane

Excellent thread, thanks.

Damn, don't think I fucked YetiMan's improved layout, but if I did, . . . .

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nothing is fucked here:tongue:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by splat

Hey, Tuco, well done. One tool I might interest you in for repairs like this is to sand a blade edge at the square end of a file. Those things are tempered strong and that edge makes a killer splitter/scraper for working in those small gaps. Feather it out over an inch or two so it gets thin at the sharp point. It's a nice arrow in the quiver.

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Thanks man! At first I thought you were going to be mad at my patent infrigement:)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by YetiMan

U fixxor teh sidewallz. I fixxor teh thredz.

Tuco: if you want to just quote my posts, then edit your OP...then a mod could nuke my posts and you have big images up with the OP.

Mods: if OP gets big photos up on the first posts, these can go away.

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Fuck yeah Yeti, that was my intention. If it weren't for this site, my computer skills would even be more archaic.
Maybe I'll just delete my posts, so people think that shitshow of a garage is yours.
Thanks dood!

at some point you can't fix a compression, though, right? doesn't it affect the structural integrity of the ski?

Shoudn't. But that depends on how much damage your core may have incurred with the compression. Fixed quite a few Rossi and Dynastars(foam core in those days) and the 1st generation Salomon monocoque skis.

oh right. EDGE compression. i was thinking something super deep.

Great thread Tuko. Those clamps and ceramic heater look like they came outta my shop..
I like to pry open the delamed edge with a tool like the one Splat suggests then shove toothpicks in the gap to keep it open. Then with the ski on edge i will use a very fine brush to paint the epoxy down into the gap. Pull the toothpicks out being careful not to break the tips off inside then proceed with the rest of the patch. On a larger repair or when adding new edge i will do it in 2 steps. Epoxy and clamp the edge, then clean things up after its set and then epoxy a patch in.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by vanisle

Great thread Tuko. Those clamps and ceramic heater look like they came outta my shop..
I like to pry open the delamed edge with a tool like the one Splat suggests then shove toothpicks in the gap to keep it open. Then with the ski on edge i will use a very fine brush to paint the epoxy down into the gap. Pull the toothpicks out being careful not to break the tips off inside then proceed with the rest of the patch. On a larger repair or when adding new edge i will do it in 2 steps. Epoxy and clamp the edge, then clean things up after its set and then epoxy a patch in.

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Hell yeah man, hopefully we get a bunch of good info here in one resource.
My preferred tool is an oyster shucking knife. I do have something pretty close, it just a little bigger. I insert it between edge and sidewall and pry the delam open and closed, using a toothpick or similar to pick up the epoxy(for small repairs). For bigger use a small mixing cup,like the kind that come with childrens medicine and pour into open delam, all while flashing the heat gun locally on general repair area(not to close or slow) reducing the viscosity of the epoxy. Prying it open and closed works the epoxy into all the crevices. I always try to find a way to do it in one layup, if at all possible.