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I am anal enough that I do mark the spot of my boot’s exact BSLQuote:
Originally Posted by mtskibum16
Not at all required
Sometimes you might want to mount with space at the other end of the binding fitment range, in which case, adjust the line you mount at
(Like maybe an AT boot with slightly different BSL that can run in an appropriate multi-norm binding)
Thanks all. Beer steps were implied naturally. ClayCole thanks for the tips. I like the idea of taking the front ones out to line the holes up visually. Doing it blind is likely what screwed me up last time. I remember looking up how to set the bindings last time, but I'll look in to it again. I may stick with 305 since it's right in the middle of the BSL range for 26.5 boots.
Yeah, if they do a longer size run, like a 187 or something that would be rad.Quote:
Originally Posted by N1CK.
Sent from my LM-G710VM using TGR Forums mobile app
Just mounted these last night. I did have one small problem where one screw on the heel plate wouldn't bite all the way. I put long set epoxy in the whole and went back to tighten this morning, but it won't budge.. There's a tiny gap between the plate and the ski that I can't even slide a razor under.. Rest of the plate is tight.. Think I'll have problems?Attachment 260192
Yes you'll have problems, because those skis are way too short!Quote:
Originally Posted by SlyFoxxx
[emoji6]
Successfully mounted my Billy Goats. This process really stresses me out! Haha. Probably lack of experience and the fact I had a problem the first time I did a mount a few years ago. But this one went smooth other than a couple mini panics while screwing the bindings in. All looks good though.
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Don't worry.. I have some 250cm red skis too..Quote:
Originally Posted by reckless toboggan
Pfft.Quote:
Originally Posted by SlyFoxxx
These days I don't ski anything less than a 305 cm long solid iron I-beam welded directly to my ski boots.
I'm going to start a PSA: Weld Your Own Fucking Skis thread.
My prediction is: No problems.Quote:
Originally Posted by SlyFoxxx
Maybe a problem if you add a huge stack of extra risks on top of that...like if you're huge like Shaquille O'Neal, AND you huck big onto flat ice on every run, AND you soften that hole's epoxy in the hotbox right before you ski, AND...AND...AND...
BTW, I think people here say you don't just tighten an epoxied screw, because it likely won't budge that way. Instead, I think you break the seal by UNtightening that screw a half-turn or so, and THEN you RE-tighten it down after that.
.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SlyFoxxx
what I hear you saying is you had a spinner so you used slow set but now you can't tighten the screw down?
This is probably becuz you have glued the screw to the ski at what ever point you left the screw at
IME this is OK
so now if you use a little heat ( 5-10 sec with a 100W soldering iron ) it will loosen the glue from the screw but leave the threads you created in the ski so that you can crank the screw down completely and Bob's yer uncle
that hole should be a good strong water tight hole but you can use a little more epoxy on that screw if you want
if you don't have a soldering iron turn a 1/4 drill bit shank down in a electric drill so the dull end is sticking out of the drill chuck, run the drill at high speed against the screw head until it has created enough friction/heat to break the epoxy hold on the screw
Yeah, exactly. Screw won't budge either way.. After I heat it and get the screw out, should I add epoxy and screw it back in right away?Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
Also, do you think it'll hold as is for 2 days?
Nice.. Do they let you on the gondie, or is that just your touring rig?Quote:
Originally Posted by reckless toboggan
yeah add epoxy and crank it down hard right away
if the screw doesn't spin and cranks down all the way yer good
it will probably be alright for a couple of days
Cool thanks for the infoQuote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
They do.Quote:
Originally Posted by SlyFoxxx
My touring rig is an I-beam hinged to another I-beam with my boot welded to it, so I can walk uphill.
Duh.
Do you just use old sled tracks for skins?Quote:
Originally Posted by reckless toboggan
Groomer tracks.Quote:
Originally Posted by SlyFoxxx
nother week of good 40 or so hours at the fullfilment center mount desk with an additional 25 at the brick n mortar grainery compound
= way too fuckin many mounts
but when my jolly redcoated bro says hes understaffed and the sfotexgroms aint gonna be as stoked on their goodkid presents
if they cant actually use em on xmass day and his fuckin mount elves cant even do his shit right
uncle dibs is on it and has got your back
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From the Lhasa Pow thread, I was so careful mounting these up, as I was having issues convincing myself I had them PERFECTLY centered. So a few hours later, I finally finished the job. My only dis satisfaction is one on the heels pieces is not snug against the ski, (super slim gap) but the screw will not turn further without me using enough force to likely strip out the thread. I used waterproof wood glue and there is a nice ring of glue around the screw to seal the hole, should I just go ski or remove the heel and try it again? Pics:
Attachment 260256
Attachment 260257
Sounds like you didn’t drill the hole deep enough. Remove the screw and lightly redrill it deeper. Glue and re-install.
Rrrrggh, ok. I use a drill press to drill exactly deep enough, but I guess that is the only explanation.Quote:
Originally Posted by 2FUNKY
Could be that there was some sawdust or shavings in the bottom of the hole, too
That too. I hit the holes with compressed airQuote:
Originally Posted by Supermoon
Could be slight volcano at the screw.
Yeah, dental pick and air blast for clean holes.
Lastly, if using a drill press with stop collar for depth control... if you set the depth at the thicc part of the ski near the toes, the rearmost heel holes could end up being too shallow since the ski is thinner there.