Shit you built with your own two hands (picture thread)

Another vote for charcuterie board.

Thanks all for the reccos! It is a charcut board but I still need to fill those voids for the inevitable soft cheese and liverwurst that could find its way in there...

Reading responses to Ofts question makes me laugh... Typical TGR. “My fence post wobbles” here use this German engineered $100 a tube, $300 per applicator, 10,000psi epoxy. It’s the only way...


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by dannynoonan

I've never cleaned a wood cutting board in anything other than soapy dish water, am I gonna die? For real, I'd have maybe just mixed sawdust and wood glue into that, but, more than likely, just ignored it for a few years. Oops?

---

I just sponge mine off. My only reason for not using the sawdust and glue method is what it would do to the knives--not any food safety issue. BTW Fine Woodworking did a study of cutting boards and found that from a bacterial standpoint wood was safer than plastic.
What ever you use--dilution is the solution to pollution. Rinse your chicken before you cut it. Wipe off the surface frequently. Your kitchen is not a level 4 biocontainment facility. It will never be sterile--you just want to keep the bacterial levels down. I wouldn't use a disinfectant on a cutting board--I'd be more worried about ingesting that than the germs, but if you do use it, rinse well.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by snoqpass

I’ve actually used this product on countertops I built enlighten me some more

---

No more enlightenment to give. Just posting what I found. OTOH the product claims to be determined safe by the EU regulators and they are pretty strict I think. And the stuff is made in Germany, and the Germans certainly know their toxic chemicals. I look up the Safety Data Sheets on a lot of the finishing products I use--it's interesting to see what's actually in them. With most of them--especially ones that dry to a hard film, any danger is from the application process. Once they've cured they're pretty much inert.

Nick--if you're not going to be cutting on the board with good knives then I'd go with black tinted epoxy. You're not going to hide those cracks so might as well highlight them. Very common practice in modern woodworking. If you do insist on using sawdust and glue to try to hide the cracks I would use Gorilla glue. When used in a sawdust and glue mixture it gives a much better color match than Titebond and can take up anything you finish the board with. If you use Gorilla glue put wax paper over the repair and then clamp a block over it--Gorilla glue wants to expand as it dries. I published this in Fine Woodworking. (Highlight of my publishing career even though it was only 2 sentences; much more gratifying than any of my 3 medical publications.) But I'd use the black epoxy.

Before this thread I'd never heard the term "charcuterie board", although we have one or two. Call me ignorant.

Thanks Old Goat. I’ll do the black epoxy. Sounds like the right call.


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

If you really care about your knives, and health, get a spruce Japanese cutting board.

end grain is gonna crack and keep shit, and wear knives, and that’s the complaints.

of course the opposite of the $300 solution is “use this glue that isn’t a good gap filler to fill the big hole”

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by dunfree

If you really care about your knives, and health, get a spruce Japanese cutting board.

end grain is gonna crack and keep shit, and wear knives, and that’s the complaints.

of course the opposite of the $300 solution is “use this glue that isn’t a good gap filler to fill the big hole”

---

I don't think you're paying attention. It's not a cutting board. Knives aren't an issue, except maybe cheese knives. And gap filling epoxy is very good at filling gaps, surprisingly. I wondered how long it would take for someone to post about an insanely expensive cutting board.
Gap filling epoxy and tint aren't cheap either (did I mention that) but there will be enough left over to deal with future cracks if they arise.

You guys are super uptight about your knives..geez....lighten the fuck up. It's metal..sharpen that shit. Y'all act like knives are some magical tool. Trust me a little sawdust or epoxy is hardly running your precious knives on concrete.

Sent from my Pixel 4a (5G) using TGR Forums mobile app

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Skidog

You guys are super uptight about your knives..geez....lighten the fuck up. It's metal..sharpen that shit. Y'all act like knives are some magical tool. Trust me a little sawdust or epoxy is hardly running your precious knives on concrete.

Sent from my Pixel 4a (5G) using TGR Forums mobile app

---

You're flat out wrong. First of all, a truly sharp knife is a magical tool and a dull one is dangerous. Second, hardened glue will dull a knife a lot faster than you can sharpen it. I've seen it first hand. Sharpening is a pain in the ass and the less often I have to do it the better. Third, if you routinely use your sharp edges on hardened glue and notice no difference then you don't have sharp edges and can't be trusted. Take care of your tools.

(Unfortunately I've dulled too many blades over the years--usually when I got distracted and didn't get the excess glue off before it cured.)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by old goat

You're flat out wrong. First of all, a truly sharp knife is a magical tool and a dull one is dangerous. Second, hardened glue will dull a knife a lot faster than you can sharpen it. I've seen it first hand. Sharpening is a pain in the ass and the less often I have to do it the better. Third, if you routinely use your sharp edges on hardened glue and notice no difference then you don't have sharp edges and can't be trusted. Take care of your tools.

(Unfortunately I've dulled too many blades over the years--usually when I got distracted and didn't get the excess glue off before it cured.)

---

Chill TFO old dude. It's a meat plate.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by old goat

You're flat out wrong. First of all, a truly sharp knife is a magical tool and a dull one is dangerous. Second, hardened glue will dull a knife a lot faster than you can sharpen it. I've seen it first hand. Sharpening is a pain in the ass and the less often I have to do it the better. Third, if you routinely use your sharp edges on hardened glue and notice no difference then you don't have sharp edges and can't be trusted. Take care of your tools.

(Unfortunately I've dulled too many blades over the years--usually when I got distracted and didn't get the excess glue off before it cured.)

---

Quality post.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by dunfree

If you really care about your knives, and health, get a spruce Japanese cutting board.

end grain is gonna crack and keep shit, and wear knives, and that’s the complaints.

of course the opposite of the $300 solution is “use this glue that isn’t a good gap filler to fill the big hole”

---

Where did you come up with this? Some of the very best butcher blocks are end grain maple.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by crashtestdummy

Where did you come up with this? Some of the very best butcher blocks are end grain maple.

---

I guess butchers don't use sharp knives? They take poor care of their tools.

Sent from my Pixel 4a (5G) using TGR Forums mobile app

Didn't build the house, but did build the deck and side the house. Pad on the left is for an half inset cedar tub

Attachment 371182

oooooh.. Is that Tercel wagon 4Wd?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by I Skied Bandini Mountain

oooooh.. Is that Tercel wagon 4Wd?

---

The Tercel Wagon SR5 in 4WD with a stick was the bomb. Until they rusted out.

I think they came off the assembly line with rust.

1 joint at a time was the trick. Took the whole weekend, but came out a whole lot better which is good since this piece is the top. Also got that 8th pipe clamp cleaned up and working.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...1cef717452.jpg

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by BeardedClam

Didn't build the house, but did build the deck and side the house. Pad on the left is for an half inset cedar tub

Attachment 371182

---

That cedar looks nice. If you don’t mind, what did that cost?

I’m about to re-deck my deck with STK 5/4 x 6 and I’m getting quotes at $2.89-2.99 per foot. That’s east coast pricing.

Nice job on both the deck and the siding.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by I Skied Bandini Mountain

oooooh.. Is that Tercel wagon 4Wd?

---

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by riser3

The Tercel Wagon SR5 in 4WD with a stick was the bomb. Until they rusted out.

---

270k on this 5, sometimes 6sp 4wd wagon. I'll probably die in a crash, but for an oversized go kart, what do you expect. No rust besides the mouse sized hole under the passengers feet

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by spanky

That cedar looks nice. If you don’t mind, what did that cost?

I’m about to re-deck my deck with STK 5/4 x 6 and I’m getting quotes at $2.89-2.99 per foot. That’s east coast pricing.

Nice job on both the deck and the siding.

---

Thanks man,

Siding is Alaskan yellow, about $1sqft plus fasteners from a mill outlet a few hrs south.

Deck and trim is red cedar from the property, the whole deck was ~175 and a couple box of screws. We did ~2500bft at ~.50/bft. There's a bunch of usable scraps and chunks with wane that might take it closer to .45.



This from before we screwed it down
Attachment 371255

Log deck it all came from
Attachment 371259

I'll post some more when we get the hot tub done. Going for a conical barrel, like a wine cask bottom, not like the usual straight up and down cedar tub style. We got enough nice wood to make a couple, hoping to pay for new sleds with the proceeds

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by MakersTeleMark

Chill TFO old dude. It's a meat plate.

---

I forgot to mention--if you are serving cold cuts to your guests always pre-slice the meat, or at least only let them have plastic knives. Your insurance company will appreciate it.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by BeardedClam

270k on this 5, sometimes 6sp 4wd wagon. I'll probably die in a crash, but for an oversized go kart, what do you expect. No rust besides the mouse sized hole under the passengers feet


Thanks man,

Siding is Alaskan yellow, about $1sqft plus fasteners from a mill outlet a few hrs south.

Deck and trim is red cedar from the property, the whole deck was ~175 and a couple box of screws. We did ~2500bft at ~.50/bft. There's a bunch of usable scraps and chunks with wane that might take it closer to .45.



This from before we screwed it down
Attachment 371255

Log deck it all came from
Attachment 371259

I'll post some more when we get the hot tub done. Going for a conical barrel, like a wine cask bottom, not like the usual straight up and down cedar tub style. We got enough nice wood to make a couple, hoping to pay for new sleds with the proceeds

---

Color me jealous. Want to ship some of that leftover cedar east?!?!?

The cedar trees on my property are only about 15-20’ high.

Coopered hot tubs were pretty common bitd with diy mods of industrial barrels and tubs. Weird craft to do right.

I'm doing a deck soon and want to go one step above ground due to roots on my big silver maple coming up out of the ground where the deck goes. Would love to do a slab but that ain't happening, so I'm thinking ultralite crete atop plywood on 12'' oc joists on piers. Anyone worked like that with ultralite?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by splat

I'm doing a deck soon and want to go one step above ground due to roots on my big silver maple coming up out of the ground where the deck goes. Would love to do a slab but that ain't happening, so I'm thinking ultralite crete atop plywood on 12'' oc joists on piers. Anyone worked like that with ultralite?

---

No direct experience personally building something like that but concrete isn't waterproof and no matter what you do it will crack. So, you'll need a waterproof membrane over the plywood. Also, I think I'd use normal weight concrete and size the joists for the weight.

Personally, If I was going for a concrete deck above grade I'd lean toward concrete pavers on pedestals built on the wood deck. Either way you probably need a waterproof membrane above the plywood or use P.T. decking to put the pavers over. That's my $0.02 anyway.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by splat

I'm doing a deck soon and want to go one step above ground due to roots on my big silver maple coming up out of the ground where the deck goes. Would love to do a slab but that ain't happening, so I'm thinking ultralite crete atop plywood on 12'' oc joists on piers. Anyone worked like that with ultralite?

---

Flashing and waterproofing are a nightmare with elevated slab decks. You need to throw a lot of money at it to do it right and I rarely see them done right. I highly recommend against it.