the answer to "WTF is wrong with my boots?"

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Originally Posted by Phall

Question for those still fitting. Is there a “new school” thing where shell fitting isn’t a thing? Was told that it’s not necessary these days by a shop manager (see boot work in slc thread for whole story)


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Was that the Dalbello story from your fiancé? It sounds like terrible service for sure. One thing to note, I always shell check but I find heel lift itself is very dependant on small factors that a shell fit won’t show and it really comes down to what the customer says they are feeling. Even if a shell fit is very tight all around, you can still get heel lift.

Were the boots tried on prior to purchasing?
Is L9 a big chain store?
Do they have any guarantee?
Usually a guarantee is contingent on getting a custom footbed, but not always.

Unless it is a shit liner, liners always should be molded. Especially Dalbello wrap liners as they tend to be shapeless and dense right off the bat and that makes them feel terrible. But that should be up to the shop to tell you.

Sorry to hear they suck and you guys got caught by it.

Yep, same story. Boots were suggested, and tried on. She made an appointment to mold them but the employee who she saw that day said that he wouldnt mold them and she needed to ski them in. Dalbello also said that those can be skied in, so there's that.

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Originally Posted by Phall

Yep, same story. Boots were suggested, and tried on. She made an appointment to mold them but the employee who she saw that day said that he wouldnt mold them and she needed to ski them in. Dalbello also said that those can be skied in, so there's that.

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IMO, if it's possible to heat mold the liners (meaning pretty much any boot that's not a kid's boot and over $299), the liners should be molded before the customer leaves the shop. If it's possible to heat mold the shells, the shells should be molded before the customer leaves the shop. Never tell the customer to "just ski the boot" . . .

FWIW, if there's marginal heel retention in a brand new boot, there's more to the story that won't be fixed by just molding the liner. She probably needs a boot that fits more accurately around the midfoot, instep and ankle as well. Cabrio boots - even the old 98mm Krypton last - are not known for snug ankle fits. There are plenty of cheap Atomic Hawx Ultra 95 and 115 boots at L9 that would probably solve the issue.

Interesting. I shell molded my Hawx and found it relaxed the fit around the ankle so I don’t do it unless some has a reason for it. And I usually try spot heating or punching first.

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Originally Posted by GoldenBC

Interesting. I shell molded my Hawx and found it relaxed the fit around the ankle so I don’t do it unless some has a reason for it. And I usually try spot heating or punching first.

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Buckle a Hawx Ultra and wrap your fingers around it. Then do the same with all the other boots on the wall. Hawx Ultra and S/Pro Alpha are in a league of their own, regardless of whether they comform better to your ankles with heat.

I’m not following. Those boots are definitely tighter cuffs for sure. I was never saying otherwise. Just that I avoid heat molding every boot because I noticed it cause a looser fit on my personal ones.

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Originally Posted by riff

I’m sizing up and putting a beefy liner in La Sportiva Skorpius for use during extreme cold and on extended trip in Colder locales like AK. Anybody used the Proflex add on thingy from Pulse Labs? https://shop.pulsebootlab.com/en-us/.../pulse-proflex

I wonder if I can grind down the raised plastic around the cable buckle on the Skorpius and throw that thing in there. I’m pretty happy with the Skorpius and it’s probably more just early season faffing, but this boot will be for hard skiing with a big pack. Might be worth it if it works. Thoughts?

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Would these Megaride tongues work for some Franken-modding? Yours for shipping if so. PM or shoot me a text if you still have my # from the Dynafit skins logistics. Attachment 478377

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Originally Posted by GoldenBC

I’m not following. Those boots are definitely tighter cuffs for sure. I was never saying otherwise. Just that I avoid heat molding every boot because I noticed it cause a looser fit on my personal ones.

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I like to think it's a "more accurate" fit (i.e. doesn't feel as tight because the pressure points over the maleoli are gone) - you can always tighten the buckles if you want. Also fixes a lot of alignment issues without planing or Cantology, assuming you can get them to stand in their normal ski stance during the cooldown (amazingly, lots of people don't recognize the feel of their own stance).

I could buy into that. It wasn't my experience. No pressure points before and wasn't as snug after. Doing up the buckles tighter cerated more uneven pressure. I'm curious if I can refine my heat molding process to work better for people who are looking for more support.

Do you actually find that it changes canting?

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Originally Posted by GoldenBC

Do you actually find that it changes canting?

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Looking at my own boots from the rear before and after, the difference is pretty obvious, especially with the newer PU models (I have an Ultra Professional and an Ultra XTD Boa). I went a little longer than I would with a customer boot, ~10 minutes with a pre-heated oven (take the bootboards out so they don't warp).

Not exactly a boot fitting question but:
I picked up a pair of Dalbello DRS WC plug boots at the ski swap. Brand new, soles never ground. I got them lifted and have been skiing them and liking them. When I took the liners out to dry, I noticed one boot board is missing. Now that I realized that it's missing, I'm noticing it on snow. How should I go about finding a replacement boot board? Is that something that a shop would carry? Size 25 shells if that matters. Through a quick Google search I'm not seeing any websites that sell them. Thanks all

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Originally Posted by S.B.

Not exactly a boot fitting question but:
I picked up a pair of Dalbello DRS WC plug boots at the ski swap. Brand new, soles never ground. I got them lifted and have been skiing them and liking them. When I took the liners out to dry, I noticed one boot board is missing. Now that I realized that it's missing, I'm noticing it on snow. How should I go about finding a replacement boot board? Is that something that a shop would carry? Size 25 shells if that matters. Through a quick Google search I'm not seeing any websites that sell them. Thanks all

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best to ask a dealer, and one that deals with more high end/race stuff from that brand?

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Originally Posted by S.B.

Not exactly a boot fitting question but:
I picked up a pair of Dalbello DRS WC plug boots at the ski swap. Brand new, soles never ground. I got them lifted and have been skiing them and liking them. When I took the liners out to dry, I noticed one boot board is missing. Now that I realized that it's missing, I'm noticing it on snow. How should I go about finding a replacement boot board? Is that something that a shop would carry? Size 25 shells if that matters. Through a quick Google search I'm not seeing any websites that sell them.

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Shops won't stock them, you'll have to go through the distributor - used to be called MDV, now going by Elevate Outdoor Collective. Hard to say if the parts are in Lebanon NH or Seattle . . . will let you know when I find out. Is this the left or right bootboard?

If you have a good fitter, they should have the reps' info and can get you boot boards.

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Originally Posted by Phall

If you have a good fitter, they should have the reps' info and can get you boot boards.

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You would rather deal directly with someone in warranty at the warehouse if possible; a single bootboard for a used boot will have questionable priority in a rep's life and it may be weeks before they even check. Pretty much guarantee the rep will not have a 25.5 DRS WC bootboard in his garage (though he might have a 26.5). MDV used to be very good about responding to requests like this, but I don't have a current email, trying to get one.

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Originally Posted by S.B.

How should I go about finding a replacement boot board? Is that something that a shop would carry? Size 25 shells if that matters.

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Can you respond to my PM ASAP? I have the Dalbello guys in New Hampshire in an email thread now, waiting for you to confirm that they are the DRS WC 92mm shells in a 25.5, and need to know whether it is the right or left bootboard that's missing.

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Originally Posted by gregL

Can you respond to my PM ASAP? I have the Dalbello guys in New Hampshire in an email thread now, waiting for you to confirm that they are the DRS WC 92mm shells in a 25.5, and need to know whether it is the right or left bootboard that's missing.

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I just responded. I went to the local MDV shop (peak performance in Killington VT) and they contacted the local rep. I'm hoping they'll be able to come through. We're really close to Lebanon NH so its possible the rep is based there

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The wife has a pair of newer Salomon S/PRO 100 boots that need the shell molded. She has been in them 8-10 days and needs more space overall, liners already molded. Thinking I can do the process at home in our convection oven. Looking at the Sally tech manual and it says 2 minutes for the newer Custom Shell HD. I believe the temp should be 100C but 2 mins just doesn't seem like enough time to me. Any recs?

Attachment 481232

a few min, in just below boiling water, can work well too....

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Originally Posted by bennettc14

The wife has a pair of newer Salomon S/PRO 100 boots that need the shell molded. She has been in them 8-10 days and needs more space overall, liners already molded. Thinking I can do the process at home in our convection oven. Looking at the Sally tech manual and it says 2 minutes for the newer Custom Shell HD. I believe the temp should be 100C but 2 mins just doesn't seem like enough time to me.

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If you really need to move the plastic, 2 minutes is not nearly enough. We do eight minutes with an oven pre-heated to 117 C. (242 F.) Put the part of the shell that needs the most modification in the hottest part of the oven (usually the top back) - i.e. if the forefoot needs more width, stand the soles upright with the toes uppermost and to the rear of the oven. Put adhesive foam over the parts of her foot that are getting pressure before molding, toecaps if desired. Make sure they cool adequately (usually 13-14 minutes at room temp; I am not a fan of cold packs), and have her stand on a smooth, hard surface in her natural ski stance (do NOT walk around).

How would you go about creating a little more room in the heel pocket? Can I pad that and re mold? (Lange RX130, HD Race intuitions)

liner: heat with heat gun and press out with broom handle

shell: grind VERY carfully in that spot/ see a boot fitter.

Is this a general thing? Or more a spur?
Have you had either issue or foot pain a while ?
Did you change for new liners or shells?
Shell fit in mm?
Good custom foot beds?

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Originally Posted by mntlion

liner: heat with heat gun and press out with broom handle

shell: grind VERY carfully in that spot/ see a boot fitter.

Is this a general thing? Or more a spur?
Have you had either issue or foot pain a while ?
Did you change for new liners or shells?
Shell fit in mm?
Good custom foot beds?

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2nd season on these boots & liners, this is a brand new thing. Just one (left) heel, but it was completely numb after 5 runs. I am possibly getting fatter but my left foot has always been higher volume than my right.

I’m a little worried that i might have made myself some trouble. I’ve been in a 26 Skorpius for a few seasons with excellent results; first boot in years that fit without punching to relieve Mortons Neuroma. Pretty good feature set for my touring, etc. however, there was always some pressure against the front of my toes, especially on long tours. I sized up one shell size, and put in a Pro Tour. Toe issues are gone, but i have heel lift now, walking and skiing. I think the Pro Tours are softer than my previous Tour Wraps, but i guess the bigger shell is part of the problem. I’m debating doing some experimenting with instep buckles placed to pull my heel back better than the spider cable, or adding L pads to the heel of the liners. Pads have always felt ineffective in the past. Any advice?


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Originally Posted by riff

I’m a little worried that i might have made myself some trouble. I’ve been in a 26 Skorpius for a few seasons with excellent results; first boot in years that fit without punching to relieve Mortons Neuroma. Pretty good feature set for my touring, etc. however, there was always some pressure against the front of my toes, especially on long tours. I sized up one shell size, and put in a Pro Tour. Toe issues are gone, but i have heel lift now, walking and skiing. I think the Pro Tours are softer than my previous Tour Wraps, but i guess the bigger shell is part of the problem. I’m debating doing some experimenting with instep buckles placed to pull my heel back better than the spider cable, or adding L pads to the heel of the liners. Pads have always felt ineffective in the past. Any advice?

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A trick I learned recently that has been helpful with this is to put a shim under your heel. I've used just a cut off footbed from an old cycling shoe but you could use anything. I have friends that used foam underneath their instep buckle on top of the foot so that may be worth trying as well.