That is one nice looking bike.
Printable View
That is one nice looking bike.
Finally getting around to posting my recent Dentist Lite (XT, not XTR) build for a customer/bud:
Evil Wreckoning LS
Attachment 475165
Attachment 475166
Attachment 475167
Mezzer Pro (burnished and retuned)
I9 EN325/310 Carbon wheels and A35 stem
XT drivetrain and brakes
Transfer dropper
Raceface ERA cranks
OneUp carbon bars
CK BB
Took it out for a shakedown run on XC-ish stuff to see how it would work as a daily driver. Was pleasantly surprised.
VERY good on tech climbs and none of that big bike sluggishness on flat trails. I was impressed.
Oh, and did get myself a little sumthin, sumthin:
Attachment 475169
5DEV Enduro cranks
Epic evo -> gone Attachment 475177
Stumpy -> arrived
About ten days into build, 99% done, need to sort some faffing in the headset.
Attachment 475178
Why would you throw rocks into your bike linkage? :rolleyes:
But seriously, not sure why this design would be any different from others in that regard. In fact, being a single pivot, it would probably be less likely than the multi-link designs. All the linkage bits are up at the top of the shock, away from the rear tire, rather than exposed like a multi-link.
Wife and I have had a year of abusing our Offerings on sharp, janky trails in New Mexico with no issues like that.
Who wants to volunteer to give one of these a go?
Attachment 475288
https://road.cc/content/tech-news/sa...ackrest-304951
That’s a back rest, silly.
But yes, probably intended for workout bikes:
https://youtu.be/7bmyGI6qQwc?si=ohhw2OqCvWYutSFD
Shakedown ride was a self-shuttled Ribbon lap with some Lunch Loop trails added on. Good mix of smooth singletrack, pavement, high speed slickrock, and chunky tech.
Huge improvement IMO. I would say small bump sensitivity is improved a bit (as it should for any new shock vs something with a year+ since service), MUCH improved midstroke support, and actual usable rebound damping.
with deals too good to be true, and luckily - EE at the time still at full retail and Stumpy at 40% off, was able to flip my EE frame into a SJ with little dollar difference.
Godspeed green prince. Absolutely loved this thing. Hoping for more of the same with a little more modern feel.
Attachment 475807
Enter purple
Attachment 475808Attachment 475809
Not much compared to all the recent new bike content, but I needed to replace the Trail Boss 2.4 on the big bike and the Maxxis sale hadn't started yet, so $40 from BlueSkyCycling got me this tire. The 2.5 is wider than the 2.6 Mazza I have on the front. DH casing, so I chose not to keep running the Airliner insert. Two rides in on Salida rocks and it seems to hook up and hold air. Yeah, it's heavy, but so is the bike.
Attachment 476662
My first real trail hardtail in about 18 years.
Got a good deal on an Esker Japhy Ti frame and had a bunch of parts kicking around for the build. Just needed a post, stem and bar….and tires; went 2.6 Forekaster with EXO+ in back.
Excellent shakedown ride today, excited for our future.
Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
I'm a sucker for titanium, and that thing is gorgeous.
Just curious, what pushed you to pick up a hardtail in this area? I've been trying to explore stuff in the area that I haven't ridden and a lot of it has been extremely mild and I've felt stupidly overbiked on my Rail29. So much so that I have a hankering for either a hardtail or fairly short travel FS bike, but some of it has been so boring that I'm not sure anything but a CX bike would make it interesting or challenging.
Ahhhh, I had to look at your location. I’m no longer in SLC, but when I was, my gravel bike saw a lot of action on Shoreline for after work miles and good times.
A hardtail would have been fun.
Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
Stanton Sherpa out:
Attachment 476671
Bird Forge in
Attachment 476672
Looks incredible. Build in progress
Yep, love my Ragley in CC.
Finally got the new commuter in proper form. The saddlebag holds a new Abus Catena 6086K lock, which after much research seemed to offer the best tradeoff between mass and security.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...440c66f069.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...7de3b00fe0.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...e9ae80a270.jpg
Thanks! The rear fender is still giving me some grief. I set off for work yesterday morning and discovered that the angle of the stays doesn't provide enough vertical support, so it bounces off the tire over bumps and rattles up a storm. It's entirely unacceptable on a bike that is otherwise ghostly quiet. The best potential solution I've thought of so far is to drill a new hole 6-8 inches higher to get the stay angle to ~30*.
It's a great bike, but going from a 69* HTA on my old bike to 72* on this one has been an adjustment. Also, after running 2-finger MTB brakes for years 3-finger levers feel positively barbaric. I'm tempted to swap in some SLX or XT levers.
Just looking at it, I'd guess the problem is that the whole fender is designed to be rotated forwards another ~6 inches--so your solution sounds reasonable.
Usually the front of the rear fender is meant to land somewhere near the bottom bracket, but your bike has a mounting screw somewhere further up the seat tube.
I wonder if your bike is designed either for shorter fenders or fenders with a new hole that's about 6" higher on fender (and then the rest of the fender continues down to the BB). If you were to rotate it around and add a new hole, I think your stays would work.
Do the fenders have any connection to the bike at the seatstay? Hard to tell in the photo--historically fenders connected to the brake bridge, but now everyone has discs.
E.g. here's the fender on my old commuter--it was attatched to a reinforcing bridge between the chainstays (where you'd attach a kickstand)
Attachment 476942
Of course these fenders also have double stays AND are connected to the brake bridge, so the rear has 4 connection points.
The frame does have a seatstay bridge that the fender connected to, but I think you're right about the seat tube mounting hole being too high. Instead of drilling a new hole in the rear and rotating just the stay, I think I'll take your suggestion to drill a new hole in the front and rotate the whole fender. Thanks!