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Isn't access a bit of an issue. Not quite ready to take the 2 year old on an 18 hour road trip. We have booked Punta Mita for this February. As a family trip. Not really a surf trip. I'm hoping there are some fun waves for me nearby. I don't need epic, just something fun to turn on. Seems like out in front of our condo is a nice little dribbler right for quick long board sessions with the boy. Nice thing is te condo has a few long boards and boogie boards one can borrow.
Ya long drive from anywhere. When he's older. Tons of families there. Kids getting pushed into waves by their dads and granddads. Just stoked beyond belief. Little 8 year old rippers on for them double overhead bombs that were shoulder high for everyone else. Moms and daughters surfing the same wave. Future trip. Just perfect little peelers. Sand bottom points.
Dreaming of the pumping south. Dreaming.
First hour of this morning's session was pretty much nothing but shacks, the guy on the far left under the hood for some shade
http://stk.tetongravity.com/forums/a...8&d=1381609401
Surfed PC this morning from 7-130. my arms feel like they're going to fall off. so so stoked.
Really 2 things on my bucket list. That^^^^and a non life threatening helicopter pow trip.Quote:
Originally Posted by PowerWhore7
spent the last 3 days at San Juanico i.e. Scorpion Bay. Occasional head high sets with long lulls in between. As mentioned earlier in this thread, sometimes one is all it takes, especially when that one is 300 meters long and just point break perfection...Did get plenty of others as well, but that one will be with me awhile. surfed second and third with a handful of others and 4th point all by myself.
I scored Scorps on a big south swell about 5 years ago and it was insane, it turned me from a climber into a surfer ;) People we're linking up 3rd and 2nd point and getting rides for miles...The only problem is when there is a swell fx, it gets sickingly crowded, the only salvation is when someone catches a ride they're out of rotation for like a half an hour...A bunch of d-bag longboarder pros showed up and were super lame. Finally the locals took some old west action and stole their fins and they had to leave. Bah bye...Also watched the quicksilver heli land at the point, full on circus when it is going off...
It is epic to get to although the south road is now paved the whole way, so the 30 miles of washboard are gone. I once buried my truck on the north road outta there on the salt flats, that's another story but yes it's tough to get to, but yet still super crowded on a big swell.
Ott, my girl (4.5) first road tripped to Baja at 8 months and has made the annual trip with us ever since, super kid/family friendly (especially Todos). After driving the first time, they now fly while I enjoy some quality solo time...
Just arrived in Todos Santos (the pueblo majico in BCS, not the big wave surf destination), will be here for the next 2+ months, looks like tropical storm Octavio may give us some waves the next couple days. Andale! If any mags are coming to BCS, hit me up.
I will be lookin for beta from you. We might make a family trip down that way next winter. Flights to Cabo are pretty cheap. Todos is an area I've thought about for family/surf winter vacation. Would love to know more about the NW swells aroun there.
HAPPY QUEBIXICAN THANXGIVING, CULUMBUS DAY, AND YET ANOTHER FUCKING WEEKEND WITH WAVES, YAY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
a non comformist's, as far from a fucking 9-5er as they come, weekend hater with a passion, nightmare.
but, being maine, it could be a lot worse. surf built Saturday with sets up to chest high with wind chop texture, but not terrible. sunday morning offered up shoulder high sets with morning glass and half of quebevermont out in the water by 7am. in York:eek: luckily those types like to sit In huge packs and surf on top of each other, so finding a spot 50 yards away with 1 or 2 others was easy. got a few good ones. notably one left that lined up perfect for a bunch of full railers. one right was a pocket revolver. 2 hours of that was enough, and seeing how I had to clean the house up from the party the night before, before a 3 hour mtb ride started at 1pm (killer ride!), and having to get on the roof, sweep the chimney, clean out and paint parts of the wood stove, time was a wasting!:D (got it all done before dark! nice blog, I know.
got up well before 1st light this am not expecting much, looked at the buoy, then looked at the winds, had a bite of cheese cake, a sip of water, and drove in the bathrobe down to check the surf with both boards, both of which I used. was pleasantly surprised to find waist+ sets, super super clean a-frame bowls south of the restaurant. MUCH better than expected. started out on the longboard and got bored by the 4th wave so I grabbed the 5'10 and milked the lil bowls. had the place to myself and just as I got my best wave on the lb my buddy tom pulled up as I was tucked in the pocket with the wave breaking right behind my ear. he saw that and I could see him thrashing as fast as he could to get his suit on. classic. many many cars with boards drove by, but luckily no one would join tom and I. after an hour and a half I got out as my gal and I have baby sitting duties today. maybe get back in tonight. 36 degrees when I paddled out this am. the woodstove is putting out the heat nicely this am. the dog is so stoked. she's been waiting almost 6 months to enjoy her most favorite thing:)
late week is looking good. not great, but enough to keep the fire burning hot.
rog
stilltele'n - will you still be there at xmas? I'll be right next to pescadero at my GF's family's spot
switched up my plans this weekend. surfed yellow house saturday for 3 hours (longest career session I think), and Oside harbor yesterday morning for 2.
Not a ton of waves in either session, but I got 2 awesome set waves > beach saturday. Saturday was pretty lully, so a lot of sitting. Of course I didn't sunscreen and now have lobster face.
Sunday my arms were DEAD, but still made the paddle out. Timed it wrong because I wasn't thinking at all and got to the lineup needing a break. The big sets were really big at Harbor, def. overhead still Sunday morning, but I was pretty far from the jetty so they were closing out. Smaller waves were the choice and had some nice rides.
as the tide dropped and wind picked up the crowd thinned a bit and I had a go at a couple big set waves just because. got majorly pitted on one that just dropped out on me and felt like PW.
It's a shame that place has NO protection from wind. By 10:30 sunday morning it was already pretty blown out after the wind kind of switched sideshore.
Watching an empty, glassy, small wave unfold. Looks fun, but maybe that us because I'm chilling on the beach. Can't complain. 75, sunny, no wind and not foot steps in the sand. October rules.
The models have been suggesting it, and still do, but now there is chatter of a approx 290^ (prob a little steeper for you folks in SoCal) long period swell swell to show starting at around 22s on mon, with the bulk of the swell coming at around 6@18 maybe on weds. That is not a magic seaweed combining every little bit of movement in the water compilation number, but rather what the real swell will look like underneath all the other small stuff that will still be floating around. Not huge, but could be good enough for a spot like mavs to throw a few 15 plus foot faces at the peak moments, and with the solid period, this thing will wrap very well into town and points well south. Of course the typhoon has not even turned the corner yet, but inspiring news. Of course I have parent in town who could watch my son until about noon on monday when they fly on to palm springs or something.
I couldn't handle it, but more stoke than 10 pages of beater babble
ya but at least we share our own shit and don't google and live through everyone else.
rog
awww fuckit, have fun making up shit and babbling your made up wave heights, swells, and people out to each other in this jongfest
Hehe. I like the Jong fest. I absolutely love wave heights. They are all made up. I can surf the same session with three different friends. On will call it chest high, another head, and the last OH.
I can't see that stoke on my phone. Too bad.
This thread gives me a break during long days with the lad. I love te guy, but sometimes I need to tea a bunch of bs. Otoh, surf, it is a coming. Maybe.
Hugh is funkin grumpy lately:confused: Teh flatness in San Diego is making me go bonkers. We are camping next Friday through Sunday at San Elijo. Any maggots want to stop by for a session and a beer afterwards? And ya, praying for a little surf, not what Hugh's photo was showing:eek:
last night ended up being awesome. sorry to all SD mags that are south of carlsbad :fmicon:
got out at 540, first 30 mins of session just a couple knee high dribblers on the LB. Crowd went in when the sun set, and then the tide must have hit it's sweet spot. Sets and more sets and more sets of chest high, peeling rights running all the way to the beach from the point.
The 615 to 645 portion of the session was just unreal. Catch a perfectly shaped, fast right to the beach. Free yourself from the kelp, paddle back out just in time to catch the 2nd or 3rd wave of the next set. Repeat. Did this 4 times and decided not to press my luck so ended up session after these 4 out and backs.
Best thing was only 2 guys stayed out after the sun went down so everyone got a set wave, every single set.
Wasn't expecting much..love when that happens!
I dig the photo Hugh, Nias?
Sounds fun, cams at harbor look fun right now too. Just to be fair, all of the heaviest South swell breaks in the county are south of Cbad. Here's a spot during that swell in Sept 2011Quote:
Originally Posted by jtran10
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Smoe8IWRmJ...de%2BBowl.tiff
the only thing tropical storm (or was it a tropical depression?) Octave brought to Todos was a couple inches of rain and some good wind.
Got in the water at Cerritos yesterday, super lumpy/mushy waves but near perfect weather. My little girl had 3 sessions on her boogie board and we couldn't get her out of the water. She was asking for her surf board, I need to find a soft top asap...
I really only like Cerritos because it's kid friendly and there is almost always something to ride there. My local spot wasn't working today so went to San Pedrito, a fun cobble bottomed point. Not much swell, but paddling in 80* water makes it all good...
jtran, I start driving north 12/15, I think I just missed you last year as well...
I dunno. Looks like monterey in the background. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Piggity
Nice chest high hawaiian...
I was thinking Puerto Escondido and about 4XOH from the pit to the crest in this jongs opinion. Chest high Hawaiian.:rolleyes2Quote:
Originally Posted by Ottime
Too bad I'll miss you again! Last Xmas cerritos was overhead and consistent. Not quite big enough for the point to work yet. Didn't head up to San Pedrito at all, but that's on my agenda this year.Quote:
Originally Posted by Stilltele'n
got a new board. rode it tonight for the 1st time. waist high and clean at the cove. 1st time surfing new hammy since last December. 15+ folks out In a place where previously i'd never seen more than 5. times have changed.
the new board is fantastic! should handle pretty much everything. a bit better in the small stuff than the 5'10 mini d. 5'8, flatter, a bit fatter, a nice single wing bump to rounded pin with a thinned out tail to handle the juice. an increase in volume from 27.8 to 29.5 which feels like quite the increase. will be nice with winter rubber. 5 fin option which I like. tomorrow could be juicy nuff to run her thruster.
mmmmmm, morning:)
rog
last night on the LB, knee-waist. not as good as the previous night, but warm