Anyone else get some today...?

^^^^Not sure what that meant, but with a guberment shutdown maybe you can go where ever you want now. Looking forward to Thurs/Friday as San Diego is suppose to get a little by then.

Jtran, the wife and I always lament how much we miss going down to Mex. Not that I would want to camp down there, but there is a development north of the Lobster Camp called Las Gaviotas, that we like to stay at. Use to rent a 2 bdrm place over looking the point break there. Definitely was fun times. Would be great to rent a few houses and have a maggot weekend down there.

finally some movement in the water. solid head high with overhead sets that came through with frequent consistency. nice to not have to work so hard as with the smaller surf we so often get. this am was easy. the 5'10 loves this stuff. left her quad, but on some drops (coupla feet ohead) a thruster setup woulda been a bit more solid. the round tail definitely had plenty of hold and drive tho. so sweet.

guess it could build a bit more peaking later today and still be fun tomorrow.

we shall see.............:D

rog

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Originally Posted by liv2ski

^^^^Not sure what that meant, but with a guberment shutdown maybe you can go where ever you want now. Looking forward to Thurs/Friday as San Diego is suppose to get a little by then.

Jtran, the wife and I always lament how much we miss going down to Mex. Not that I would want to camp down there, but there is a development north of the Lobster Camp called Las Gaviotas, that we like to stay at. Use to rent a 2 bdrm place over looking the point break there. Definitely was fun times. Would be great to rent a few houses and have a maggot weekend down there.

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http://santacruz.patch.com/groups/po...our-mile-beach

Beach was closed. My buddies got turned away at 4:30. I headed nearby, it looked like shit, I walked the bluff thinking I'd sneak in, but they must have got the drugs packed up and they were letting folks in. But, as word was out that the beach was closed hardly anyone was there. Of course, instead of a quick jog from the lot, I must have hiked a total of 3 miles total, and half of that in the dark, heading back to the car. Super fun session with plenty of waves. I am pretty sure that only two spots were breaking on west cliff with the tide. One probably had 30 and the lane likely had 200...

some pics from the baja this past weekend. All non-surfing, but "lifestyle" stoke :wink:

baja microbrew
Attachment 142033

the campsite right above the break.
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also did some wine tasting and ceviche eating, but probably not real stoke-worthy images.

liv2ski, the spot we camped is chained/gated, right near several hotels, and far enough south from TJ that the riffraff seems to stay away. Had no reservations about camping where we did.

Have you checked out Quatra Casis (sp???!!!??). South of Ensenada by about an hour. Secluded point break. We camped on the cliffs there years ago. Fun little wave when there if there is a bit of swell to get in there. Barely saw another surfer the entire week we camped there on the cliffs. Might be sketchy these days. Don't know.

Big, lumpy waves tonight. Got a good paddle and surfed with four others along a 150 plus yards of point. Nothing special but fun to paddle the small board into some bigger lumps. Need a lower tide right now with only having a short sunset window. Or less wind.

RIPPING ASS MORNING TODAY.

lost some size since yesterday, but as is often the case with here, size ain't everything. waist to chest perfectly formed a frames rolling in with light offshores. plenty of wave for the short board with the lefts and rights providing hit after hit with many buckets tossed off the back. so much fun.

for the 3 day swell i'd put this am as the most fun, with the sunset sesh two days ago as number 2, and yesterday (the big day) in 3rd. nice lil run. maybe a fun longboard wave in the am.

rog

Come on rog, we all know when some one says size does not matter, they are lacking in something.

I agree. I'll take form over size any day. How ever, my ideal wave is about double over head, oil glass, with a peak and a section that literally folds over on itself. And I'm pitted on it. A long rippable inside section does not hurt either.

4 casas. not really secluded anymore.

Really? There were not even any houses when we were there. Only a run down, depressing an slightly off setting orphanage, kind if like Beyond Thunder Dome style, on the road there. Otherwise a few fishing shacks. I be some douche posted up about it on an Internet forum and ruined the whole thing.

Is it developed or just discovered?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Ottime

Come on rog, we all know when some one says size does not matter, they are lacking in something.

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heh, so predictable, no problems here:)

Quote:

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I agree. I'll take form over size any day. How ever, my ideal wave is about double over head, oil glass, with a peak and a section that literally folds over on itself. And I'm pitted on it. A long rippable inside section does not hurt either.

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man this morning was just gorgeous. left the house and swung through shorts on my way to ls. approaching the north end passing nubble it was just angled peak after peak after peak in the dawn light with a nice light spray off the backs. south of the restaurant with the 90-100 degree angle and light west wind was the call. flawless.

i don't really have a particular wave per se, more a session as a whole. high wave count with lefts/rights/variety, preferably beach over point and chest to head and a half, and prefer wide open face carving as opposed to going for toobs

rog

I always look at the boobs first, then the faces. Just my preference I guess.

Another blown out afternoon around here. Might take off a few days and make a go of it on Saturday. Or maybe I'll get after something tonight.

Why beach over point? I guess I could see that around you as the points rarely have much heft, but I was wondering if it was something else. Do you get bored going the same direction through an entire session? I can bored with hitting the same spot day in and day out. But some guys love that. I pretty much always prefer going left, but that might just because most of the waves I surf tend to be rights.

Shit. I need to go to work and move some more soil. Be right back.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Ottime

I always look at the boobs first, then the faces.

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Heh, me too :)


Surf has been pretty peaky and super clean in the mornings around here, surfed state park Sat-today and today was the only day I skunked. A shoulder high wave would come every 15-20 min or so and the rest were just ledging on the beach, got to talk about the upcoming winter in detail with my buddy though so all was not lost.

Looks like Friday/Saturday might have some OH sets, of course I am headed out of town Friday but I was able to finagle a super dawn patrol session into friday’s agenda. Had to wait on the beach for the sun to come up to surf today, fuck, I am turning into rog :biggrin:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Ottime

Why beach over point? I guess I could see that around you as the points rarely have much heft, but I was wondering if it was something else. Do you get bored going the same direction through an entire session? I can bored with hitting the same spot day in and day out. But some guys love that. I pretty much always prefer going left, but that might just because most of the waves I surf tend to be rights.

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I grew up on the cape surfing/getting pummeled :) by beach breaks. I like the variable/shifty unpredictable nature of beach breaks. I definitely get bored going one direction as I enjoy surfing backside as much or more than frontside as I like going vertical and off the top backside a bit more. the lefts today were insane. fast high pumping speed. points are cool too but always feel a bit confining/limited to me. I don't really like surfing near people and at points that tough. beaches, at least here as you know pretty much always offer an opportunity to surf yer own peak. i'm kind of a creature of habit so between shorts/longs, and ogt i'm satisfied as all those spots handle pretty much any wind direction, swell angle, tide, and period. with two of those 3 breaks a mile from my driveway and the other 5 miles away, i'm in heaven.

mmmm pizza and beer:D

rog

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Originally Posted by PowerWhore7

fuck, I am turning into rog :biggrin:

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fuck, you have no idea:)

ok maybe a lil bit:D

rog

See, I kind of dont like the shiftiness o beach break. I understand not wanting to surf around people, but I just look for the uncrowded points. OTOH, I don't really like pouts unless they are really good. Although I surf a lonely one as utility and it is a typical point burger machine. My favorite is a reef. Juicey. Ledgey. Predictable. Don't really care what direction, but I do mostly surf backside, so I do enjoy a good frontside break.

Don't get me wrong. I do enjoy beach break. It is fun for wind swell.

I think that is kind if the difference. We often get big, a windy surf. The points grab it and make something of it. The beaches are a mess. I tend to score beach break when the surf is small and marginal.

My favorite breaks around here can be described as follows.

Open ocean slab right.

Semi protected slab left

Exposed slab point left

Open ocean semi reef pass left

Protected right hand point

Very protected submerged right point

OB and Moss can be super fun when they are on.

Anyway. Surfed an overhead burger machine right with 100 yard rides and occasional good sections this evening it was fun. One other guy out. Many people elsewhere.

I do love surfing the rocks in rye tho. perfection:)

rog

last night was glassy, but very little swell. Waist high waves and extremely lully. Eagerly waiting for this next SSW to build.

next week (mid week) is looking very interesting here. possibly.:)

rog

NW fading while new SW fills in, Red Flag warning goes into effect from 11am Friday through 8pm Sunday, yum.

http://sfist.com/2013/10/01/weed-run...s_near_san.php

boatload of schwagg goes down, surfer scores empty sherriff-patrolled lineup.

had some good surf at times up here, though when is surfing not good? finally seeing NE flow, might head to the border, border of the neighboring county that is...left barrels galore.

light offshores and some chest - head high waves this morning, although pretty fat from the tide.

thinking about making my first venture up to trestles tomorrow for a beach day with the GF and some SSW + offshores

PW - does state park stay pretty clean if wind shifts light onshore in the afternoon? Thinking about heading there too

Fun times from 10am-noon at Swami's. Just me and 30 of my best friends on the peak:rolleyes2 Picked off a few and managed to catch the best wave I have had in months, so all in all, a pretty great day.

^^^^^sometimes all it takes is one....

rog

Quote:

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Originally Posted by PedPro

http://sfist.com/2013/10/01/weed-run...s_near_san.php

boatload of schwagg goes down, surfer scores empty sherriff-patrolled lineup.

had some good surf at times up here, though when is surfing not good? finally seeing NE flow, might head to the border, border of the neighboring county that is...left barrels galore.

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Wondering if I know you^^^

Did ya go? I cruised by aroun noon thirty lulling the boy to sleep. Glass and no one out except a few on the reefs and one down near Scott's. could not believe no one was on it.

So killer today. Spent a few hours in the beach withy little guy. Even no smiles had just a hand ful out. Beach wear weather and everything.

A little small and meager and a touch of warble out there, but it is sheet glass for the most part. Great day to go find a piece of reef that is breaking. Or beach. I you can't find something worth Rodin today, you aren't really looking. I gotta wait till tomorrow. Oh well.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by icelanticskier

^^^^^sometimes all it takes is one....

rog

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Funny you say.

On Sunday I got some fore runners of the past swell that peaked on Monday. While Monday evening was fun and uncrowded due to the whole drug boat thing, my best surf came on Sunday. Pertly because I surfed two different sessions. One with two guys I know. The other with one. And at each session I got one of those waves. Like really good waves.

Anyway, as I was putting my head to pillow, I shared with my wife how I had two really good waves that day. She gets up, looks at me, and says, "that's it? You were gone fore six hours!"

Hard to explain how all the rest of the waves fade from memory and how special a really excellent wave is. Non surfers just wot ever get it, I think.