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Knee deep in the timing belt of my Lexus. Interference motor, so at 135kmi, if I don't have proof it was done, I have to do it. Some bolts made my life difficult, but otherwise pretty straightforward. Best write up I have found is actually hosted on a Bmw site.
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Water pump, too? My neighbor showed me a crack timing belt from a Tacoma this summer. He was changing it (and doing a bunch of other stuff) as a big favor for a close friend in need. Over 180k miles on the belt.
yeah, water pump, tstat, pulleys, tensioner, blah blah blah. accessory belt, tensioner, pulleys, oil change, coolant flush and change, basically make it so I don't have to worry about anything. Will probably change power steering fluid as well. Already flushed the suspension fluid :rolleyes2. Last thing it will need after all that is a check on the left front abs sensor. System works most of the time, but light comes on sometimes, and throws a code for left front sensor. Probably just dirty.
How did this end up? Usually the ball joint drops right out for me. The 14 mm bolt that holds them in is a real pia though. I've had good luck putting anti-sieze on it for future removal since the ball joints seem to be pretty much toast at 100k. With the anti sieze and an impact they come right out and it is a half hour job. Otherwise add knuckle removal and $50 for machine shop to remove the broken bolt.Quote:
Originally Posted by Obstruction
My 02 Subaru had a broken rear strut mount that has been making more and more noise for a while. It was a KYB mou t that I installed with the Baja springs about 55k miles ago.
Fixed it this evening with another pos KYB mount (only 23 bucks) and still time for beers and a movie with the wife.
Err...not quite centered.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...39c6b19dc0.jpg
Trusty OEM spring compressor. $25 bucks from Amazon. I had always done the free rental thing from the parts store before not realizing how dirt cheap they were online...
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Another picture. Gone.
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Started with PB Blaster and impact wrench on the pinch bolt ended up drilling it out (after shearing it off halfway down the shaft) and still couldn't get the ball joint loose from the knuckle. (Replaced pinch bolt with nut and bolt) I ended up taking the knuckle off as I mentioned and whaling the living bejaysus out of the ball joint and removing the ball out of the socket. Next I got busy with a cold chisel to get the socket loose ... no dice. So I cut the socket with an angle grinder through the narrow pinch gap and was able to use a hammer and the chisel to spin the socket a little. The cut again spin some more cut again and so on. Was eventually able to collapse the socket an bust it out. Ended up I had a ring of tightly fused Rust in the depression where the pinch bolt sits and that bitch was never going to pull out without serious heat or dumb brute force (my weapon of choice).Quote:
Originally Posted by uglymoney
Finally cleaned up the knuckle and installed the ball joint, a fairly easy process. The punch line is that when I took the thing to the dealer to get an alignment the tech told me he couldn't align it because the strut was badly bent, he showed me and sure enough it was. Back off the rack and home to order a pair of pre loaded strut/spring assemblies. Pretty good deal at $180 for the pair and simple install. Then back for alignment. So all is good for now.
Thought about doing the rear struts (10 years 130k miles) but I'm a fix it when it's broken kind of guy and I don't think I'm there yet. Hopefully when I do I'll have as easy a time as you did.
I got more satisfaction from replacing rotors and pads on my Kia last week than anything else I've done in a year. Really strange.
Know what you mean. Getting your hands dirty and making something work properly while saving a nice pile of dough always makes the beer taste a little better.Quote:
Originally Posted by huckbucket
Damn. That is persistance on that knuckle. Next time that happens pull the knuckle and get it to a machine shop. No shame in having them bail you out. If I have trouble with that pinch bolt not turning right away take it in before it breaks off...they get it red hot and turn it right out. I have had to replace a bearing seal immediately after (like $6) because it got a little singed with the heat.Quote:
Originally Posted by Obstruction
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Nordfrost's are on the Volvo. Waiting for E code headlights to be delivered
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Sage advice. I probably spent as much on replacing drill bits and new hardware as a shop would have charged to say nothing of the time and aggravation. Goddamn New England road salt!Quote:
Originally Posted by uglymoney
I have that on my older F250...makes the fronts straight with no arch. Totally good, but it stiffens the ride up a lot....be ready for that.Quote:
Originally Posted by Gerome
I've seen a lot of problems with those Quick Strut assemblies. The springs are noodles and won't ride the same as stock. The mounts are weak and break. Just sayinQuote:
Originally Posted by Obstruction
Huh, I hadn't heard that but based on that I'll hang onto the old springs just in case. I guess I wouldnt be surprised give the low cost. In the mean time I'll keep my fingers crossed that these hold out ok and make sure the car stays on the pavement.Quote:
Originally Posted by tripice351
3 mm Is all it took to get clearance. Now just need the center caps. Bring on the snow...
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When I get back to my sailboat and that other side of my life, I'll retrieve the journal of my girlfriend and I's 52 day cross-continental wrenching adventure in my old vintage Land Rover. Iceman will be happy to know that a pair of blue-jeans figures highly in the story......as does a sacred circle dance around a very dead battery (it WORKED) and an epic 70 mile, fifteen mile an hour side of the road trip into town with a radiator that had more holes than metal. It will be a good read, I promise you that.
Replaced an a/c compressor, condenser and drier/desiccant on my 2005 Toyota Matrix the other day. I ain't auto mechanically inclined at all but looked at a few youtube how-to videos after a few shops quoted the job as taking 3 hours of labor time @ 90-120 bucks/hour... took me 65 minutes and didn't even bruise a knuckle. The beer tasted pretty fine after that job; tasted like...victory.Quote:
Originally Posted by Obstruction
WTF is with the shop time estimates? I can see it taking that long if they planned on re and re'ing the alternator and fan assembly to make more room to access the compressor and taking a few extended paid coffee breaks or something but otherwise the estimates are out to lunch.
Working on the timing belt for a Lexus v8. Pretty straight forward so far. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...7c42334050.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...b2da706b63.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...8167683c1c.jpg
Got the belt in, and time to check for interference, then put it all back together.
No wrenches, per se, and I wouldn't want people to know me as a painter based on this, but for my very first time, I felt pretty damn good about it! A bit of light sanding and a buff with some compound should make a big difference on the end finish. Flame away.
Still need to paint all the fender flares and bumpers. Those will all be matching dark metallic gray to give the finished car a two tone job.
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Looked like this a couple days ago... https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...eace23d57c.jpg
Is that a Nissan Patrol?
Looks pretty good for a first time job.
How does it look closer than 10 ft away?
Hehe, from 10 ft, it looks good. But even from there it is evident it has some orange peel. It's not great, but it ought to look pretty decent when finished.
It is a 95 land cruiser. 167k miles. Paint was shit. Looks way better now, but still have a bunch of work to go.
My first paint job. Bit of a smaller project-
Before-
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During-
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After-
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Pow pow power wheels
improved the tuning and am now getting an additional 5 PSI on my turbo, can definitely feel the difference.
thinking about putting a high flow cat on, opinions vary on if it'll improve performance.
I'm new to this thread. What kind of vehicle is it?Quote:
Originally Posted by SkiCougar
Anything that reduces back pressure helps your turbo spool up easier.
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Actually, you want back pressure, or restriction on the exhaust until the turbo spools up, because the restriction will increase the exhaust has velocity.Quote:
Originally Posted by basinbeater
Then once you have boost, you want no restriction.
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This is the sexiest car going on TGR right now.Quote:
Originally Posted by refried
No.
Simplest way to free up power and increase spool rate in a turbo is to make the exhaust more free flowing.
Check out my tale of "the Gobbler" for a similar tale of a ORV that won't work.Quote:
Originally Posted by Alaskan Rover
Plugging away.
Clean things before you put them back on.
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There are a lot of 12mm and 14mm (and 10mm) bolts on the front of a Toyota v8.
Notice I didn't clean the big fan clutch bearing bracket. [emoji52]
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Pontiac solstice, now with 300 horses.Quote:
Originally Posted by powbmps
Finished up the timing belt. Both belts, all pulleys, both tensioners, water pump, thermostat, oil change, Coolant flush, Coolant hoses... I'm I think that's it. Purrs. Gonna drive it to work tomorrow and see if anything falls off.
Pile of old parts...
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Note to all you nooks... If your thermo Stat has a little wobbly thing in the rim, that goes at the top.
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Hapi snacks make you happy.
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Cool. I would say a high flow cat will always help with a turbo'd motor, but keeping the CEL's at bay can be a bitch. I know on the "older" turbo Subarus it was just a simple resistor stuck into the O2 sensor plug. On the other hand, I tried replacing the factory exhaust manifold/cat assembly on an '02 BMW 330 with headers and a high flow cat, and could not get it to pass inspection. Drove me nuts. Total pain in the ass switching them out.Quote:
Originally Posted by SkiCougar
Gettin rolling on a lil project. Might make a build journal TR out if it. Might put a few more teasers in here.
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My 79 F250 now has an old western straight blade plow.
I was unable to find a proper carriage for it, so everything on the truck side had to be fabricated from other pieces.
I don't have welding equipment, and my welding is what you might call rancher welding...at best....so I paid a professional buddy in cash and help. Over the course of a few months of weekends I helped him put axles in a car trailer so we could haul a 4runner and transmissions around to replace a 4runner transmission, then helped him do a set of subaru head gaskets.
All in all, lots of learning lately.
The whole project was sand in the gears....bit off more than I bargained for. Had to find a bunch of little parts for the pump head from local junkyards, had to redo the controller because whoever left it at the junkyard had broken into it and wired it wrong. I'm really hoping the charging system and battery are adequate for low rpm + plowing + winter, but it's just alternator and battery so it won't be hard to upgrade if need be.
before:
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new trailer axle
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fabbing the plow carriage
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finally ready to push snow around the house
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Those lifts are bad ass.
ABS light came on and my cruise control stopped working halfway between Big Sky and Northern Wisconsin. (2009 Outback with 5MT). Google says cruise is automatically disabled if ABS goes out for safety reasons. Google also said most likely cause is the brake switch on the pedal. Replaced it real easy, but still not working. Grrrrrrr.
I wonder if you may need to d/c the battery for a bit and let it rethink things with the new switch?
Read this... You can figure out why the light tripped.
http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/...ad.php?t=19053
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