::: :::Quote:
Originally Posted by ::: :::
They bring me a little PTSD. I assume they do the same for you...
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::: :::Quote:
Originally Posted by ::: :::
They bring me a little PTSD. I assume they do the same for you...
I’m looking for a Rocky Mountain Shock Pivot Cup extractor, or a viable work around. Could even swing by a shop that has one in the SLC vacinity?
Quote:
Originally Posted by muted reborn
I am using this one, they also make them in clear and blue.
I have the Park Tool suspension bearing press kit. It includes cups for all bearing sizes. In a pinch you can do it with some ¼-20 all thread, a couple nuts, a socket and a washer.Quote:
Originally Posted by Canada1
Thanks! I’ll walk him through how to do it with the all thread. He is too reliant on shop tools!Quote:
Originally Posted by Gunder
The Alt-Alt bearing press kit is shockingly good for the price. The shear number of sizes of both solid plugs and open cylinders makes it really easy to find the perfect configuration for a bike. I find myself reaching for it over some fancy Wheels Mfg presses since it's so complete. The only downside to it is that it doesn't address the need for blind pullers in some locations.
I couldn't resist. You can never have too many hex tools....
Attachment 419639
I was surprised with the nice tool pouch that was included.
Do you think the 8 will stand up to cranking a pedal loose?
Goddamnit Dee that's the exact tool I didn't know I needed.
Edit. I talked myself off the edge once I saw the 50 dollar price. But those would be quite nice for occasional situations.
It’s burly enough, just a bit short for leverage.Quote:
Originally Posted by EWG
Attachment 419657
How tightly are you guys putting on pedals? I've always just put them on with a regular length wrench, to or sometimes a 3-way if they take a 6mm. In nearly 30 years of working on bikes I've never had one loosen up on its own. I know the torque spec is high, but I'm not sure why. Enlighten me.
Pedals are reverse threaded to the direction of your crank rotation. That’s so they won’t work loose, but it also means that they naturally tighten over time. Getting them loose to remove them can be a thing.Quote:
Originally Posted by climberevan
As long as they are installed nice and tight they’ll just keep getting tighter. That said, I’ve seen them put on too loose on a mtn bike or two, and the vibrations have let them back out till thread was showing. Terrifying to find. Not on my bike but I reminder finding that on a friend’s that I noticed on a ride.
I just get them to snug, then give a little bit pressure more. I'm sure what I do is less than the torque setting is, but they've never worked loose since the reverse thread. I ride flat pedals, so fucking hate having to hold onto a crank arm and yard on a wrench, sometimes slipping and hitting pedal pins.
I've seen a pedal back-out on the trail for some random intermediate rider , it fucked the threads up when it fell off
So I threaded the pedal in from the back of the crank arm to straighten the threads which then allowed me to thread the pedal in from the front side
Dry pedals, rock strikes, inserts deforming from round, galvanic bonding, owner tightening the wrong way with a 12’ pipe.
The problem is never going in, it’s coming out.
For Cranks and pedals, I like to use a PBSwiss socket on my long Snapon ⅜ ratchet.Quote:
Originally Posted by EWG
Attachment 419669
Thats a PBSwiss hex key for comparison. Haven't met a combination that wont easily remove. For the rare pedal that has flats and no hex in the shaft, I use a Pedros pedal wrench.
Attachment 419670
I've actually pulled pedals that where properly tightend right out of crank arms before, but those where some shitty E-bike Shimano cranks from their first gen and seemed to be made of butter instead of metal.Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
On older cranks, I like to use my Park Pedal taps to clean out the threads. A thread chaser would be better, but I dont know anyone that makes those in the 9/16-20 L/R threads pedals use.
Attachment 419671
ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS use anti seize on pedal threads!Quote:
Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs
For AL to AL, the standard grey AL based anti-seize is correct. For any TI Componets, the proper stuff is the Copper based stuff also sold as "high temp". For metal into Carbon applications such as some stems, etc, a Teflon Anti-Seize is best. I pretty much use the Teflon based stuff for all of my stuff these days, its really good. Also Anti-Sieze is some messy shit thats tough to clean off (by design) so I like to use a syringe to apply it.
Attachment 419672
No kidding. How many times have you had to deal with a pedal that was absolutely CRANKED on cause someone thought they were taking it off?Quote:
Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs
Over the top to the back to remove. Over the top to the back man.
I hope thats not what your wife says... ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs
I was just out on the trail when I helped some random couple and i didnt even get my superman cape dirty
My tool of choice for pedals is a Pedros T handle pro. They don't make them anymore and they look like this (not my photo) - they are quite nice if you ever run across any NOS, but the identifying words rub off quickly.Quote:
Originally Posted by Gunder
Attachment 419673
I've been a pretty big fan of some of the older Pedro's stuff. It just seems that the newer stuff and especially Park's newer stuff just isn't as good of quality anymore.Quote:
Originally Posted by EWG
I like my Beta t-handles a lot. At some point I need to pick up a ball end set, but they are hard to find for a reasonable price.
You guys convinced me to get a set of the Wera hex keys. They are damn nice. I might get some tape and color code the Betas to match.
Attachment 419674
I'd use heat shrink.Quote:
Originally Posted by adrenalated
Same. Never had to do anything crazy to remove them either, but I mostly work on my bikes which are never in a disaster state. I think some folks in this thread should be working on F1 cars instead of bikes. Untapped potential. This stuff doesn't have to be complicated unless you want it to be.Quote:
Originally Posted by climberevan
I legit enjoy having a "what to buy" source should I feel compelled to get the nicest tool possible for bike work, but holy fuck there is some Patrick Bateman level shit in here. I'm half expecting to see a recommended 10 step process for putting on nitrile gloves. "I first apply a dry release agent..."
Does anyone know where my missing 2mm T handle is? Yes, I’ve checked the bottom of the sock drawer
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