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Yes, it seemed ok, but I ended up just adjusting the template so I'm just inside the middle knurls. Wanted to be able to tighten pressure if needed. I'm a 293bsl and anyone wanting to try mine would be like a 330 so that won't work. Sorry bitches!Quote:
Originally Posted by Mustonen
But if I get a new boot it might be a little longer cuz the OG Lupo Carbon was short.
The TAP plastic near me in Portland usually has a scrap bin with similarish acrylic type of plastics that they give away.Quote:
Originally Posted by ntblanks
EDIT: ignore this, 1" thick pieces probably aren't going to be found for free...
Big bump. And not really on topic.
Can anyone point me to a solution where turning the heel din screw does not change the din inside the window? The binding instead wants to separate outward :(
Are you sure you’re going the correct direction? If you try and back them off too far, say for storage, the heel dildo begins to come apart.
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Yes, I believe BeHuWe covers your solution in depth here:Quote:
Originally Posted by margotron
https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...d.php?t=351642
Am I being trolled. That’s a for sale threadQuote:
Originally Posted by Mustonen
Yeah. Decent price too. What I was saying was to consider buying some new bindings if you can’t adjust your DIN and the assembly is falling apart.Quote:
Originally Posted by margotron
DIN indicator not moving when you turn the screw would most likely mean the arm on the DIN indicator is sheared. (the DIN indicator is a small plastic piece that clips onto the screw…turning the screw would still be affecting the DIN but you’d have no visual reference).Quote:
Originally Posted by margotron
Binding separating? As Be mentioned if you UNscrew the DIN screw too far it will start pulling off the plastic cover.
I’ll pop into garage and see if it’s bottomed out. That would be ideal. If no, I’ll take a video.
Can the dildo be disassembled and re assembled?
Alright so dredging this one back up after reading through it.
I have some p15s freshly mounted (by a shop). Forward pressure seems kinda tight, but indicator is lined up, Took it back, shop techs say it seems fine. But the boots don't really "snap" into place, and I can pull the heel pieces up slightly more to get them to sit all the way vertical and flush with the heels of the boots. Also heels won't really rotate even pushing on them pretty hard.
Backed adjustment screws out a turn each. Now the boots snap in place better and the FP indicator still lined up, Can get the heels to wiggle a bit left and right now if I shove on it. Heel still pressed down firmly and brakes don't move if i lift up on the boot.
I should stick with the slightly looser adjustment, right?
Either one is probably fine, I’d ride them at the looser turnQuote:
Originally Posted by jamal
I’m going to assume your boots are GW and if so I each manufacturer follows the spec to make their boot compatible with the binding. But they all have a slightly different tread block. So different boot manufacturers have different width heels when it comes to GW soles. Attachment 479116Quote:
Originally Posted by jamal
Same sized boot. One a Lange other is a Dalbello
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They're actually just regular alpine soles. Anyway, thanks guys. I probably could have just left it alone, or figured it out myself. Seems to make sense once you just look at it and put the boots in and adjust the forward pressure and do it again.
Basically what I am understanding is that since the arms are at an angle, forward pressure adjustment is also changing the downward pressure. too high, and the boot is squished down into the binding too hard so the heel piece just kind of rolls up over it without a really defined snap into place. Backing them out, now boot goes in easier and the heel pieces come all the way up.
The dildo should snap up with no mushiness. When your boot is in the binding pull down a little on the dildo and let go. It should give a crisp, gentle snap back up on its own. There is a sweet spot for it. Ive seen a few shops get it wrong because they are only trying to position the indicator with no regard for if the pressure is actually correct but only the indicator position. This is the one sucky thing about the P15 an P18 that it all seems so subjective to get the forward pressure dialed.Quote:
Originally Posted by jamal
Ah yes, the old Pivot forward pressure debate. Inexperienced shops/techs are really good at messing it up. It's not so cut and dry like a lot of bindings. I tighten them until you pull up on the heel and the brake arms no longer drop, then I confirm by making sure the heel doesn't twist in the binding. Finally, I make sure the dildo snaps up into place nicely with being mushy. My last set came from the shop completely messed up. DIN's were up to 2 points off because they tried to get the release test consistent. I know, I know..... Mount your own bindings..... I have one shop I trust now.Quote:
Originally Posted by halliday
On the one hand I don't doubt the experience of all the people in this thread who have been working with this binding for 10+ years but on the other hand I don't believe that Look and every ski shop in America is doing it wrong by following the indicator.
More 15-20+ years. And yes, they're doing it wrong, because the indicator is absolutely worthless.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bojangles Mgillicutty
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Point taken, but consider that 95% of the people riding pivots right now had the forward pressure setup by using the indicatorQuote:
Originally Posted by arild
Look shop manual doesn’t say to go just by the indicator, does it? It talks about testing by twisting the dildo and checking for a good elastic snap.
So in that case, what’s your point?
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FACTS!!Quote:
Originally Posted by arild
I gotta say that even though I like how they ski I think I might be moving on from using Pivots in the future. It shouldn't be that hard to know if your forward pressure is set correctly.
My current delimma is swapping brake arms. Shit shouldn't be that hard... Related, anyone in front range/summit co that can assist on a brake arm swap or know a shop that will do it?
You have to drop the engine on a Porsche to change the plugs. Base plates with the proper brake arm width should be available from any Pivot dealer worth their salt.Quote:
Originally Posted by rudy
Considering almost every Marker I see in the lift line has the FP screw sticking out past the housing maybe the problem isn't the ease of adjustment? Find a good shop/tech and reward them for their knowledge/skill.
27 years of skiing exclusively on metal turntables and never once have I looked at an indicator.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bojangles Mgillicutty
I’m shocked the indicator exists.
I do commonly see improper Pivot forward pressure in the liftlines. (Too much forward pressure is very obvious, the dildo does mot sit upright enough).
The bindings are apparently VERY forgiving when it comes to forward pressure, something that can’t be said for a lot of other bindings oit there.
My very first set of alpine skis had look 37 which must be the cheapest turn table eva so I asked the shop guy when i picked em up how do I set forward pressure ?
he said screw in the turntable preload screw till the toe no longer self centers and back it off till the toe returns to center when you twist it which seemed to work for me
A bit of thread drift but with all the fucking know-it-alls around here it shouldn't be so hard for me to find out how far that pre-load screw on my STH14s is suposed to stick out but noboy seems to have an answer
Maybe this, from the 2010 shop manual. But it references 12 and 16. But it’s also the only screw adjustment shown in the manual.Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
Attachment 479412