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Ya, my good buddy is a shop tech and that's what we talked about (mount holes). But I doubt the core has rotted out. One core shot that was immediately repaired.Quote:
Originally Posted by madriverfreeride
The binding had obviously ripped out of the top sheet as well. My friend pointed out the fracture (?) lines. He's gonna epoxy in some inserts and we're gonna hope for the best :)
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Maybe not core rot in your case, but more often than not, that is something that happens as a result of improperly sealed mounting holes. In your case however you have a hole overlap issue, not enough supporting material around the new mount and only pound in plugs in the old holes. You might have gotten away with this mount if that previous holes had been plugged with wood (bamboo, or similar) and epoxy. If it were me, I would pull the plastic plugs in the near holes and fill/epoxy them as described above, then, after that is set up, install inserts.
Anyone actually looked at the armada shift. Other then being black I was told that the toe is “thiner”. Not sure what that meant but was woundering if there was anything related to the AFD adjustment made... I have the Atomic version I got last year and had issues with the AFD. Followed the adjustment feedback on this site and that seemed to solve it but it still is in my head when skiing....
We have all three versions in the store; they are exactly the same.Quote:
Originally Posted by phatboy64
it didn't make sense that one would be different....going to put another pair on a new set of skis...
Been trying to read through this thread, but there’s a lot. Mounting a pair of these soon for my sister Inlaw. Anyone kind enough to point out things I should be aware of?
Seems like epoxy on the screws is a good idea. Inserts for toe pieces (all 3, the pair, or just the nubbin?) as well?
Is there a verified paper template for these? I remember reading about the distance for the nubbin being debated.
Link for setting afd and forward pressure?
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Epoxy is usually a good idea unless you have 200 pairs of skis waiting to be mounted behind your bench, in which case you don't have the time. It's easy to have the toe slide OVER the nubbin when sliding it back, look at the side of the binding to make sure it is in the right place. If you are using an alpine ISO 5355 sole, don't follow the usual rules about AFD clearance (a card or .5mm), go a bit tighter (like no gap). Mounts seem quite secure for skis with titanal in the layup if you tap the holes; for an ultra light ski with no metal I might do inserts.Quote:
Originally Posted by Muggydude
Here's the adjustment guide from the 19-20 tech manual:
Attachment 303986
This is Salomon's recommendation, which I've had no problem with. Other people have shown the heel with more forward pressure (end of silver metal aligned with arrows rather than the raised nub in line with arrows); maybe one of them can chime in with their rationale.
This. Salomon rep confirmed for me the same. I went for the Armada’s cause I like the all black better than the others.Quote:
Originally Posted by gregL
Going tighter than rec on forward pressure is not a good idea. I think I read people recommending it a few pages back. Good way to encourage prerelease in a heavy landing or when really flexing your noodle sir Francis bacons or whatever crap the kids are backslapping on these days.Quote:
Originally Posted by gregL
I like my shifts at 13 with the FP set as shown or a little looser. I ski my sth2s at 13 as well but they feel heavy now.
Nice. Well it was worth a try. Good on you for going with inserts and giving it another go.Quote:
Originally Posted by Gnar_Shralp406
Thanks for tips everyone. I think I’ll just epoxy all the screws and follow Salomon’s advice from there. Low rider weight and good quality skis so I’m not too worried about her pulling out a toe
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Has anyone tried stretching 100mm brakes onto a 112mm ski? I know they tend to have a lot of extra room... but I wanted to check in. Trying to sort out skis to pair with bindings on hand.
I’ve been leery of messing with the brakes because they release when you pull them outward and without knowing exactly what it looks like inside, I’ve been paranoid about messing up whatever makes that mechanism work.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tailwind
Maybe you could trade up to a 110mm on Gear Swap?
Agree.
I had some 110mm brakes on 125mm skis and they worked... most of the time. So I ended up trading. They were borderline... so I was wondering if anyone has tried.
Quote:
Originally Posted by lucknau
They bend easily - have 100mm on a 116mm ski. To vice grips is what I used. One to secure and one to bend.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tailwind
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You would have to do the slightest bend or shave some plastic off the inside but it should work. A 100mm brake on a 108 ski fits with plenty of room. I've mounted other skis that are 10mm wider than the brakes with no issues.
Heh. Cool. Forget what I said then.
They’re all 8mm wider than stated, I thought, so yeah, not much of a bend
120mm Shift brakes bent to fit 148mm Spoons
Attachment 304473
Touring on 148mm skis... interesting. Sounds kind of uncomfortable.
I tour on Protests, it’s not too bad. Only real issue is I’m always making the skin track 2cm wider with every stepQuote:
Originally Posted by TahoeJ
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If it's a big day on low angle, he's winning.Quote:
Originally Posted by TahoeJ
Sure, I’ve toured on my 122mm Noctas... just trying to picture going that much wider. To each his own.
Skin track or sled track?Quote:
Originally Posted by TahoeJ
new Shift guy here, mounting first pair.
I read about the minor toe gap after proper installation. By my heal plates seem to not sit flush, almost like they're ever so slightly convex. I
f the plastic wasn't so rigid I'd think I could just muscle them flush with the screws, but yea, they are stiff and I doubt it'll flatten out.
Anyone else see this?
Look closely... I recall seeing a slight taper/relief to accommodate ski flex.Quote:
Originally Posted by N1CK.
Or do you see something else?