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4-5 inch Hawaiian in The OC as well, beats workin though...:wink:
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I can make any wave look big
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How the hell would you know?Quote:
Originally Posted by PowerWhore7
Damn, TN!! I am almost in the same boat, as of yesterday. Just poking and prodding to date, waiting on the MRI, should be done tomorrow. This is going to be a breeze compared to the last one.
In any case, it looks like Piggity has opted out of his "sacrificial anointment", and two alternates have arrived. Hope you all have a wicked winter!
Interesting that noparkingis reporting junk in OR, and Atrain is scoring in BC. I actually would have thought these swells were maybe too far south for BC to even get waves, but I really have no idea how the dynamic works and if they are scoring from a completely different fetch within the storm.
I'd say things have been promising around here. I've had a few very good sessions, and many fun ones. Hope this is just an early start to things. The long term continues to show promise. Occasionally, we get these autumns where the surf never drops below head high and the winds stay slack. I was unemployed during one such period that lasted the entire month of November. Dawn patrol till 11AM, then food and job search or interview, then 2PM till dark. Was a great month.
This last swell showed in town, but not much. Will see how the big one for next week works out. I'll take what I got last night. Only hoping to score it as good tonight.
I was thinking about the hurricane season hype that you mentioned rog. You need to go explore that coast around you. Cape porpoise, and even more t island, offer great opportunities in making something good of the longer period. If it is crowded at home, find your self one of the reefs or points up there that literally go off when there is swell. I hear even now they are rarely surfed. And you could probably do it in a morning this time of year. Hope on the turnpike, get off at kbunk and scoot on out there. I bet you could be suiting up 40 minutes from your door and getting ready to enjoy lonely shacks. Cause that shit ain't hyped enough. PM if you want to know what I know. Claim your spot at the peak before ms carson blows that shit up.
Buddy took some great dslr shots I will put up here. In the meantime some crappy phone pics.
5 days in a row.
Cobblestone Aframe. Check. At one point this was well overhead. Surprisingly the left is usually much better than the right although it doesn't look it in this photo. The left runs all the way to da beach.
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Crazy crowded this day. Most of the days have been pretty mellow as far as crowds except for this one. Wave in the back can barrel fiercely left on big swells. Front wave with all the people is a screaming down the line right.
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The wife has a week long vacation and my work is 100% go or long stretches of nothing. Thankfully this swell aligned with her vacation and my stretch of nothing. In between sessions we hiked out to random spots searching for gems on this stretch of coast we have never explored. This looks more like BC we expect. Big and stormy and not surfable. Checked off the list.
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Coast was quite beautiful many of these days.
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This wave was a rifling right. Lined up for long, long rides. After surfing 45 second rides in baja this summer, this was pretty good. Probably 20 or so seconds. When it really started pumping there were plenty of double overhead sets. Jacked up on the inside and I bounced off the rocks a few times and put another large ding in my board.
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More right perfection. Running down the line. Most of the week was pure glass.
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My mind is kinda blown at how good these waves are. All close to my new home for the next half a year. Perfect timing. Iphone pics do a shitty job of showing them, but hopefully once I get my hands on some of my buddies pics they will do a better job. I've been breaking out the 6/5/4 this last week after spending the summer in a 4/3. 5/4 would totally suffice for a little while longer.
Awesome Athan, yeah last weekend sounded absolutely sick!!!! Glad you scored.
thanx ott, may hafta hit you up on that. nice pics atrain!
peace
rog
sent a teaser id prefer not to post here
Golden, Atrain. You make me want to move. How far are you from Vancouver? Does Canada need more stay at home dads?
Thought traffic was going to keep me from getting in tonight. Left the house at 6:30 and still got a 50 minute session in. Quite a bit less than yesterday, but was still able to pick off a few. Hoping Sunday pans out.
Did you SoCal guys get a bump up today from this swell?
^swell bumped up, so did the S/SW winds. Most spots are funky but some of the sheltered spots are probably manageable. Might try for an evening session
Nice photos Atrain. Even better setups than I was expecting, especially the right in the last photo.
last night on the LB was fun. Real windy, but swell definitely up again. Some chest high sets.
Only 2 groms out with me. Definitely worth the paddle out, but would have been miserable on the shortboard.
Hoping for some more tonight but another 24h of wind on it thinking it won't be worth it tonight.
thought scripps/lj shores would be a good option for today, and surfline confirmed it. 4-6 feet fair to good.
wish I could get down there
Ottime. Vancouver is a ferry ride and a hassle away. But that is where all my "in town" work is or I'm on the road. We will be back there in 7 or so months, but I will still be coming out here now that I have the knowledge. If you're the stay at home dad I'm sure Canada will be asking "what does your wife do?"
My wife killed it on this swell. Watched her surf the biggest and best waves she ever has. Big set approaching and she started paddling to go over it. I told her to hold her ground. It got closer and she started to go over it again. "This is your wave. Turn around and go." She paused. "Go, go, go." She turned around and paddled into a legit head high and a half wave. She was disappearing and reappearing and beating sections from the back for a good 30 seconds. I could hear her hooting and laughing the whole way. She paddled back with a shit eating grin and simply said, "Holy shit. That wave changed my life."
Here's some pics off the buddies camera.
Did I mention it is freaking beautiful up here...
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This defines how good it was for 2 out of the 5 days. Just perfection in my mind.
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The wave above would jack up on the inside way out of view to the left of the above image. I was trying out my buddies 9'4" noserider. I got a hang five on the previous wave and was stepping my way towards the front when it started to wall up so I stayed put.
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Barrel visions are beautiful no matter how little they are.
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Thought I had an exit...but then got crushed. Bounced off the rocks multiple times over the course of the two days while getting multiple visions.
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More and potentially even bigger goodness on the way. Hope it pans out!
atrain bringing the stoke! great pictures
awesome pictures looks like so much fun
Well, actually I'm a sustainable food service consultant. The mrs. Teaches high school English. Not that we would actually move from what we have right now. Looks enticing.
I'll see if I caught anything the past few days. At wilder Ranch now hanging at the climbing tree and the tunnel bushes.
A bit windy north of the Bridge but still passable. Got some super long cheater 5 rides on the log the other day, otherwise it's shortboard in-n-outs.
thanx a bunch ott!!!:D
rog
Just got back, solid NW considering it's September.Quote:
Originally Posted by jtran10
^^^ ANd there is more on the way next week. 9@10 right now. That will fade as winds go off shore up the coast. A little boost on Sunday, getting us back into the 4+@15 range, then 8+@16 to peak Monday. If all comes to pass. Winds might return, but if we actually get that much swell, it won't matter. Town will start to go. Anyway, September has been very nice from the NW.
And, no problem rog. That coast line goes wasted. Let me know know if you need more specifics.
If that wind switches out of the East tonight like it's supposed to, then tomorrow AM could be fun. We can thank BS720 for the sacrifice, heal up man!
Wait. I missed that. Heal up J. I for sure can thank him for sacrifice as things have turned on up here. We have been running at a steady 3 with some days up to 5 when a typical September averages in at a 1.27.Quote:
Originally Posted by Piggity
got out for an AM session before work today. NW winds died down at 9 last night and went offshore since then. Ocean smoothed out nicely from what it has been the past couple days.
Waves were pretty soft this morning, and I had no patience since I woke up later than I wanted to and had to get to work, but had a couple fun rides, and a lot of waves that I couldn't get into.
Fall mornings - when the water feels like a bathtub at 7AM because the air is 10 degrees colder.
piggity, didn't see you were thinking of getting out this morning. hope you scored better than I did.
Atrain, those were taken on Vancouver Island, correct? South of Tofino? Next summer I have to bring my 4/3 with me, rent a board and paddle out. The wife and I love it up there.Quote:
Originally Posted by Atrain505
Finally scored a little wind swell this morning at 15th St in Del Mar. A little junky, but still fun. Really glad we are getting closer to winter, as this was a really lean summer of surf for me.
not stoked weather is was to stormy for surfing, only option would be under the newport bridge and that looks like this. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JyrWCLpdlP8