More like, his tibia are reinforced with dual density foam and he rides with a mouthpiece to handle all the chatter!
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More like, his tibia are reinforced with dual density foam and he rides with a mouthpiece to handle all the chatter!
One of my tibias is quite thoroughly reinforced with titanium, but I don't think that's helping with the vibration damping unfortunately.
The bike setup definitely isn't cushy. I just find myself needing to run a fair bit of air to keep air in the tires, particularly in the back of the hardtail. Inserts help, but I still bed need DD casings or equivalent too, and all that gets heavy.
Heavier but worth it. Speed and a touch of reckless abandon tend to smooth things out - on any bike, but especially on a hardtail. Add to that the occasional chatter induced blurred vision and smacking your wheels into shit becomes an occupational (recreational?) hazard. At least if you’re a hack like me.
I've run Cush Core in it before. It didn't reduce the air pressure I found myself wanting to run by all that much, and while it does mute some harder rim strikes and the like, it wasn't worth it for me personally. YMMV.
I do have a set of the Tannus inserts sitting on my workbench to try out, but I haven't gotten around to installing them yet. Not doing any riding for a bit until the air quality improves anyway.
HAB what width rims/tires?
25-30mm rims (DT EX 471 and 511, We Are One Unions). Tires in the 2.3-2.4ish range for the most part.
I rub one out every night thinking about my first ride on this bike
need to get another pound off the bike so it's less than 22lbs
https://spotbikes.com/collections/bi...32155013382178
^^ damn, pricey HT.
its carbon fiber and stupid light with good geo. I just spent 3k on a Steel single speed build......
ooh she ugly!
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Forgot to share a pic when the Taival finally arrived (late August). It is FUN.
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Also, per the above conversation, running that reardhr at about 25psi with airliners. Love how damp this bike is for a hardtail but could be more the frame and wheels than the tire psi. 30mm iw ex1501’s (last years aluminum, not the new carbon ones).
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how much more air volume would 35mm rim with 2.6 bring you? any math nerd know how to figure it out?
approximately https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torus#Geometry
you gotta measure R and r for any of your rim/tire combos though and then you're left with a useless metric because who finishes a ride and goes "that would have been better with 10% more volume"
Anyone been on the new Giant Fathom 29 yet? Numbers check out and seems like a pretty good deal, other than the Giant Fork which I'll just switch out if it sucks.
Hardtail fanatics ...
Any of you running a coil fork?
Whenever I’m riding the Pedalhead on really rowdy or rough stuff, I have two thoughts:
1) No rear suspension = weak rear braking traction = get bigger badder brakes up front. Right, I’m already working on that, will try bigger rotor and if it’s not good enough I’ll try 4 piston.
2) The bike feels like it wants a coil shock. With the rear wheel skipping around on chunder and dynamically loading the fork with a double whammy (rocks coming up from below and rotational torque pushing me down from above), I wonder if it’s worth putting a coil up there whenever I find one at a can’t turn down price. Like a used or clearance Ribbon or Z1 coil ... What say you - definitely worth it, or just unnecessarily lighting my money on fire for my 2nd bike?
I'm not running a coil, and I don't think I'd want to. I end up riding pretty far over the front on the hardtail, just to try to keep things smoother. I definitely nose in pretty hard on landings. I run my fork a touch firmer on the hardtail than the squishy bikes because otherwise I get too deep into the travel. And I think the more linear feel of a coil fork would be a problem for that same reason.
But I dunno. Extra suppleness always sounds nice.
Haha, yep. Makes navigating the parking lot a little more interesting.
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Re: coil up front. I’m enjoying my front end not being too heavy and feel like the progression of the air fork is helpful for same reasons above. I think that insert/lower tire pressure helps with rear braking via tire doing a little better job of staying connected.
I’ve got 200mm rotor/4 piston up front and definitely appreciate that braking power when the rear is getting knocked around.
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GS, that red looks fantastic! Agreed on an air fork. I'm also running my fork at higher pressure and am using an extra spacer. It basically takes the edge off and saves my ass if necessary, nothing more. That's one of the reasons I shied away from the longer travel frames.
The more I ride this thing, the more I'm sold on the 120mm slack AF hardtail in the Blister review. That or an Arcturian with enough spacers to limit travel. I still think a hardtail needs to have certain levels of ridiculosity.
Yeah at my weight my fork has enough progression for me with no spacers - I have it set up where I’m like 3mm shy of bottom out on the hardest / biggest knock. Spring ramp up with one spacer was actually too much for me. It’s a Pike (A2 maybe?) with DPA spring (120/150) and Charger 1 RC damper. It’s probably about time I did seals and oil service though ...
I originally wanted a Lyrik DPA up front but I think the shortest I could find the air spring was 130/160 and that would have been too much for this ride - I don’t know if there is even a 120/150 air spring for it, and I’m sure it would be hard as hell to find if so.
Maybe at some point I’ll give up on the DPA and get a 36 with Grip2 @ 140mm ...
Not as "progressive" as some, but this is in the works.
Will replace my medium Wozo frame. A little longer/slacker, but not crazily so. Spends most of its life with 2.6/2.8 rubber, but I can swap the full fat tire wheels on if we ever get enough snow again.
Attachment 344185
Nice! Report back once you have some time on it.
Will do. I've read good things, so figured to give them a shot. Obviously not as long/slack as some stuff out there now, but my local terrain and trails just are not right for a 63* HTA and super long hardtail.
ACL repair a few weeks ago has me thinking of my coming soon recovery rides. As I posted elsewhere, the Megatower isn't really ideal for putting pure mileage on and N + 1 probably isn't ideal for my home situation.
Anyone have a medium taival or the like they are like, maybe I'm going back to full squish this year?
I'm interested.
Let’s get the hardtail stoke going again! Threw some PNW bars and grips on the Chromag and I love them! The rise on the bar makes it feel a touch like a BMX. Really liking the hardtail and now I want another one (Doctahawk perhaps)
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‘22 Spec Fuse Expert. Running 27.5+ x2.8s for fun, though BB is a touch low in this config. 66* HTA, super tight 420mm chainstay makes this thing so fun for manual/wheelies
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about one year on my Canfield Nimble 9. HUGE upgrade over my 2011 Honzo.
150mm Pike Ultimate
One-Up dropper 210mm
WTB I35 wheelset.
SLX cranks/XT trail pedals
34T oval front ring
21T rear Cog
Guide RSC 200mm f, 180mm r
Butcher, Eliminator combo. 2.6 GRID trail front, BLCK DMND rear.
Feels both more substantial and yet more nimble than my Honzo. My Honzo was a size M(420mm reach) this is size M(450mm reach). its feel super plush but I think its mostly the 35mm internal rim with 2.6 inch tires I can run sub 20psi with out any rim dings or roll overs. I think 2.6 inch wide tires get a bad rap because of people running them on rims that are WAY too narrow. The Pike Ultimate is great for my application but can flex(twisting) on sidehills with compression, its not much but its noticeable. I rode someone's doctahawk with a Lyrik and the frame and fork felt more solid but not always in a good way IE it was harsh as well. The Nimble 9 seems to really work some magic with vertical flex in the seat/chain stays.
my two biggest gripes is no ISCG tabs, would love to run taco bash on it, since I love playing on rocks, and also I have to limit my Dropper travel to 200mm but could run 210mm if the port for the cable was lower...and as far as I can tell there is not any reason why it could not be lower....and its not in stock I would build another one and run gears on it.
With some advice from Bushwacka & others my Honzo build is getting closer.
I’m going to have to do some back to back w 29x2.6 v 27+x2.8 since I have both. My stock 29 wheels are 30mm internal I think, which might be a touch too narrow, but not terrible. I remember running a stans crest 29 w the old WTB 2.5 Wierwolf and while I loved that tire (especially when rigid) definitely would roll some bc of the rim width I suppose
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I have already done 30mm internal . Too narrow at least for 2.6 spec ed. The issue the sideknob are basically impossible to find and are less supportive. You can solve issue two with more air, but issue one is un solvable. I put 2.3 back on the 30mm internal rims and it feels a ton better. Maxxis WT might react differently.
I’m looking at grabbing some 2.6 for the stylus (would like 2.8 for shoulder seasons but doubt they would fit). Have 2.5 on now and I’d say there is decent clearance front and rear.
Taking it out on another ride tomorrow… I’m shelling my FS at the moment and I don’t actually miss it.
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Have loved my Taival. Almost a year in. Currently my only mtn bike so I’ve used it for everything. Has been to local ATL trails, DuPont, Bentonville, Trestle Bike Park, and some trails around Boulder. Did everything except the super rough/mega chunk really well (but made it through that stuff alive). Changed tires several times for different occasions. Stock 2.3 exo minions have performed well where I live w/ an air liner in the rear. 2.5 MG Exo DHF front w/ 2.4 MG DD DHR II rear (no inserts) was money at trestle. A 2.35 Barzo in the rear has been fun for going fast on single track where the lower weight is appreciated. G2 ultimate brakes (220 front, 200 rear) and pike ultimate set at 140 have been great. Gx drivetrain has performed well enough. Derailleur feels like it needs frequent tweaking, especially when I was using traditional lube. GX chain was done after 500 miles. New XO1 chain has been solid and I went queso on the new chain and it’s been great. Bikeyoke revive has been flawless. Ergon grips and saddle nice as well. Turbine stem and nukeproof carbon bar add bling more than anything but I also like the wolf tooth rad system to get more stuff on the bike and less on me.
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Highly recommend! I was looking at some of the more exotic/boutique progressive HTs and this is modern w/o being too ridiculous to pedal through east coast tight and techy trails. Also was able to hop onto an already existing shop pre-order so was about 6 weeks to get it.
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I'm thinking a progressive hardtail may be in the cards this fall if I can find one used. I largely have my eyes and heart set on a Kona Honzo ESD. I like the geometry as a tester for a what I'd like in a long travel full suspension in the future and I'm interested in the slider dropouts for single speed use (yes I know this is a dumb bike to single speed on but I'm curious). The only other bike that's really caught my eye is the Chromag Rootdown but it's missing the sliders.
Anything else that should be on my radar? Sub 65 degree head tube angle and steel frame are mandatory. Sliding dropouts are a plus as well.
If anyone knows of a used large or xl honzo esd (I'm 6'2" and could probably make either size work) a line on that would be appreciated as well. There were a few on pinkbike a few weeks ago that have vanished.