Converting a SS commuter to 1x10.
Bought a 105 RD, 105 cassette, and a Zee shifter. Is my Bike going to explode?
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Converting a SS commuter to 1x10.
Bought a 105 RD, 105 cassette, and a Zee shifter. Is my Bike going to explode?
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You're gonna die.Quote:
Originally Posted by nickwm21
But actually, that won't work. The cable pull is different on 10s Shimano road vs MTB derailleurs. You'll need a MTB derailleur to work with that shifter. I might have one in the parts bin, I can look tonight.
Thanks - I’ll return some shit and buy all mtb stuff
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You can run a road cassette if you want. Just need to swap the derailleur.
I have a 1x10 setup for sale if your interested. GX derailleur and cassette, sram X9 shifter. PM if interestedQuote:
Originally Posted by nickwm21
My new Hightower is nearing completion and I need a 150 mm fork. I was set on a Lyrik Ultimate but reviews of the Marzocchi/Fox Z1 are pretty solid.
The Lyrik is $300 more. Worth it? I’m not a rider who’s always tweaking suspension adjustments. Anyone ridden the new Z1?
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Buy a barely used Lyrik off PB. Or a Fox 36. I’d personally go with the known commodity.
Plus, resale on a bike with a Marzocchi fork will suck, if that matters.
^^^ agreed
Isn't a Z1 just a Fox 36 Rhythm with a few small differences? I don't see why that would hurt resale value other maybe poorer brand recognition compared to a very similar fork with Fox stickers.
That said, the high-end Lyrik is a great fork.
For sure, the Z1 will hurt your resale.
But, it is literally a Fox 36 on the inside. Just a touch heavier.
That said, it's really not that hard to find a take off Factory Fox 36 for hundreds less. Half a season into any fork on my bikes and it's just a scratched up vessel for premium internals.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/FOX-Factory...oAAOSwEj5eISQd
What's the deal with Giro single-size helmets?
Also, will I die if I use these DT Swiss centerlock adapters with 180 mm rotors?
https://www.jensonusa.com/DT-Swiss-C...T-Disc-Adaptor
I've used them. They're fine-ish.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dantheman
I've had them come loose on me, but I've also had regular centerlock rotors come loose on me, so that's not really any different. They also allow a little bit of slop in the rotor, which makes zero difference while riding, but can definitely be felt if you rock the bike back and forth with the brakes on.
Cool. Is there another centerlock adapter you'd recommend? I'm less than thrilled that my new wheels have centerlock hubs, but I didn't have much choice in the matter.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
edit: derp, managed to find the Shimano ones (https://www.jensonusa.com/Shimano-SM...-Rotor-Adaptor) which for some bizarre reason don't have "center" or "lock" in the name. Might as well get these I guess.
I haven't used those Shimano ones, but they look better than all the iterations I've ridden. Having actual bolts would mostly solve the rotor slop issue.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dantheman
I’m pretty over bolting and unbolting twelve bolts, myself.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dantheman
(But I change wheels frequently)
Sounds like a problem better solved by a second set of rotors.Quote:
Originally Posted by rideit
I'm happy to live with the centerlocks, though. New wheels are Reynolds Blacklabel Wide Trail 347 Hydras (:fmicon:) and I got them for, um, significantly less than retail.
edit: x2 on what Andeh said. That's my MO.
Swapping rotors isn't too bad if you use a cordless drill to do most of the spinning, and just finish the tightening with the torque wrench. Saves a lot of sliced knuckles too.
I went the other way, all of my 5 wheel sets are now centerlock.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dantheman
And they all have rotors.
Speaking of, anyone need some brand new 200mm six bolt centerline rotors?
x3 I've toyed with the idea of getting one of those little 4V drivers just for rotors.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andeh
I'm pretty much constantly in need of rotors at the right price. Used to be sold on Ice Tech, but have become disillusioned and now wonder if they're actually worse than solid one piece.Quote:
Originally Posted by rideit
Would $75 for two work for you?
They are $34 each in QBP before shipping (wholesale), and $39.50 on eBay.
I like the centerlines better than ice tech.
Centerlock rotors are a solution in search of a problem.
I’m not sure that’s entirely true, turning two things to install your rotors vs 12 and dipping/applying loctite... your right that there was never a real problem with 6bolt, but centerlocks are a bit of a simplification...Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
a "simplification" that:Quote:
Originally Posted by Ski Donkey
1) generally weighs more in an area where weight matters (both rotating and unsprung)
2) requires a tool that makes trailside repairs effectively impossible
3) doesn't allow for shimming / re-spacing
4) (probably most importantly) introduces yet another standard that doesn't have widespread market acceptance, isn't really backwards compatible, and doesn't offer a clear benefit.
#1 is especially funny when fancy lightweight plastic wheels are involved.
Rotating weight directly at the hub isn't much of a problem.
Only real advantage I can see to centerlock rotors is for travel. Being able to remove discs quickly for packing would be nice.
All of these.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
Additionally, I'm generally against anything that requires a new tool while not providing much of a (or any) technological advantage.
Don't all centerlock rotors just use a cassette lock ring tool? Or are there some that require something else?Quote:
Originally Posted by EWG
My wife has a super cheap electric screwdriver that I use for that and other tasks like assembling furniture, replacing outlets, etc... super useful. Worth the $15.Quote:
Originally Posted by jm2e
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Some use a BB tool. But do you bring either that or a cassette lock ring tool on rides typically? The torx head is in nearly all multitools. And it works fine. And it's lighter.Quote:
Originally Posted by El Chupacabra
Agreed on the torx availability -- I do prefer 6-bolt rotors. And no, I don't carry a BB tool or cassette tool on rides.Quote:
Originally Posted by EWG
IIRC you also need to use centerlock for 140mm rotors, but the only one we have of those is on the rear wheel of Mrs C's road bike.
nah, there's plenty of 6 bolt, 140mm options.Quote:
Originally Posted by El Chupacabra
Well, nevermind then... Dunno why I thought that.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
I agree with toast on this but the rear wheel on my MT came with centerlock (longish story) and man is it nice on the rare (single) occasion that I have to remove/replace the rotor.
I found this adapter in my parts bin. I'm pretty sure it's a rear, but there's nothing on it to indicate either way. How can I know for sure (besides the obvious option of installing it all and seeing if the brake looks like it lines up right)? Or, am I mistaken that 180 PP adapters are F/R specific?
I have a whole box of old adaptors. I have no clue what most of them are for. Hayes used to stamp part #s on them and I had a chart showing what fork and rotor size each one worked with. But that was before 80,000 different wheel size/hub width/rotor size combinations existed.
As for centerlock I go out of my way to avoid them and any bike/wheelset that comes with them. My old Mojo SL came with them on XTR wheels. What pissed me off most about them was limited selection of replacement options all of which cost significantly more than available 6-bolt options at the time. Maybe it is better now.
Interestingly I did find a cool cassette tool that I definitely carry in my tool kit. Wonder if it could be used to remove a centerlock rotor? It does work for cassette lockrings at at 15g not much of a weight penalty. https://bikerumor.com/2019/03/13/rev...saves-the-day/
I believe that adaptor is not front / rear specific.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dantheman
Excellent, thanks.
Some adapters don't fit well with other brand's calipers though - just have to test fit and see. Can't remember offhand which ones I've had conflicts with.
I could see that thing working to tighten a loose cassette or rotor, but not remove one that was well-tightened and had been on for a while. Those Shimano centerlock adapters I found upthread use a BB tool. I have no earthly idea why.Quote:
Originally Posted by evdog