Volvo

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Originally Posted by jm2e

Exclusively high octane gas.
Did oil changes at the dealership for the first year+ thinking it was the right thing to do. Figured if something like this happened under warranty I’d need their support.
Eventually disillusioned and went to an Indy Volvo guy. He convinced me to ignore the 10k intervals and do oil every 5k. So I alternate between him and a Valvoline shop.
Now the cost is lower for oil, but there’s always something else due.
I’m not doing this myself. I’ll fuck it up. It’ll make a fucking mess. It’ll fuck up my free time with my wife. Respect for guys who wrench. That’s not me.
It’s been going through 1-2 quarts of oil every 10k for the last 30k. Indy guy told me that’s normal; said the valves get sticky and leak and isn’t worth addressing. Said 5w20 would help.
I’m going to look for a second opinion. Even if I ditch the car, I’ll need it somewhat fixed to sell it.

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Sounds like YOU did everything right, but I completely disagree with your mechanic. 2 quarts between changes is NOT normal. Some consumption is, sure, but that's excessive. If valves are getting "sticky" that indicates something's going on. My guess is due to your oil consumption and "sticky" valves, you had leaky valve seals. Since you spent a decent amount of money on yours, and if you liked it and want to drive it til the wheels fall off, my suggestion would be to just do a head job (by somebody who knows WTF they're doing). I am HIGHLY doubtful it needs a new engine. A different high mile motor has questionable history, and your block's likely totally fine. Your head's probably totally fine too (would need to be verified by a good machinist). That's why on both my last engine jobs, I decided to stick with my own engines and redo the heads. On my S60, the head was in beautiful shape. Just needed new valves (that were completely mangled when I bought it). Shops these days must be overwhelmed it seems, as 9 times out of 10, they suggest the lazy way out (motor swap) instead of doing actual mechanic work and FIXING the problem. The previous owner of my S60 took it to 3 different shops, and I called around 10 more. ALL of them said it needed a new engine. It did not. In your case, it seems awfully wasteful to junk a whole perfectly good engine over a pack of valve seals and some valves, assuming that's the root issue and main problem that led to the burnt valve. Yes, it's a lot of work, but it may be worth it if you like the car.

These dudes: https://usparts.volvocars.com/p/Volv.../31430939.html

Here's the before and after of my S60 head:
Attachment 475381

Attachment 475382

And I'm FAR from a mechanic. I'm just some yahoo screwing around in my garage. If a trained professional mechanic can't confidently do a head job like I did, then theyz a bitch. :D
Out of curiosity, did your indie actually run the car through VIDA (the factory Volvo diagnostics software) or do any deeper diagnostics than an educated guess?

Heh, MF should start a Volvo engine repair shop for wrenchin' challenged mags :)

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Originally Posted by gravitylover

Heh, MF should start a Volvo engine repair shop for wrenchin' challenged mags :)

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That would be fun. Wish I could!

jm2e, here's a good contact for you to call. Allied Motor Parts in the ATL area. https://www.alliedmotorparts.com/ They know what they're doing and can help guide you in making a decision. Just tell them you have a Volvo head and they'll connect you with the right guy. I think Dirk's the owner, but I spoke with either him or maybe a Bob. I forget. It's been a while. Anyway, they'll probably know more about your specific issue than most mechanics would. Shipping was cheap through them and their prices were pretty good last I spoke to them. You can of course use your mechanic of choice locally but they can ship the head to these guys to do the refurb work. Thankfully I ended up finding an absolute badass of a machinist locally and he's my guy now.

OH! I almost forgot. I do believe that generation was also susceptible to piston ring issues causing severe oil consumption. Especially the "Drive-E" ones. Did your shop ever send out an oil sample for a proper oil test? Like Blackstone labs. That can help determine where the issue may stem from. You definitely want to get to the root of the problem before tossing a pile of money at the vehicle.

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Originally Posted by liv2ski

Fair enough. Volvo's do need regular maintenance and the dealership is expensive, so a good Indie is a life saver for those of us that can't DIYS. Sorry if I came across a little short.

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I did not take anything you said negatively.
Really appreciate all the insights.
Will weigh options on who to bring it to for next opinion. Felling lucky that it’ll still putter around town, since I (now feeling stupid about it) sold my old Hyundai beater and really don’t want to rent a car for 2-3 weeks.


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Where do you live now jm?

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Originally Posted by gravitylover

Where do you live now jm?

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this, you never know if someone here has a great mechanic hookup in you town.

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Originally Posted by gravitylover

Where do you live now jm?

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Roanoke VA

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Originally Posted by fatnslow

this, you never know if someone here has a great mechanic hookup in you town.

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Doubt it. But definitely willing to be pleasantly surprised.

Option 2 told me to talk to option 3. But prefaced with saying he thought a rebuild was a bad idea on any car at 180k, a new motor would cost $7k, and he thinks it’s only worth doing if I put a new tranny in at the same time.

Option 3 told me to bring it in on my day off (2 weeks from now) and hang out for a couple hours while they do their own diagnostic and scope. Only then can he advise.

Option 4 said he’d look into engine prices. Then said a realistic option would be to start with the rebuild plan, but may find it’s too trashed after pulling it apart and then could change back to new motor plan. Also said he probably couldn’t get to it until after Christmas.

Option 5 I left a voicemail.

More and more, I feel like I’m going to end up buying a replacement car now since whatever I do to this isn’t gonna happen any time soon.


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I found a few rebuilt heads for your motor for $3-4.5k. I'd be looking into that and talking to some local machine shops. Are you on the XC60 owners group on FB? That would be a good place to ask for a local Volvo indie.

I’m confused. Why would I buy a head for $4500 when I can get a whole motor for $4000?


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Because these T6s are tough and have very few inherent flaws, chances are your block is fine. Used engines are a crapshoot (as I'm finding out again), you have no idea why it's available and if the vehicle took a hit that could've compromised something or did they ever change the oil...

I have a 2012 XC60 T6 I would like to sell but likely not helpful given I am in Northern VT. 133,000 w no known mechanical issues. All services complete through 127,500 and did some major belt repairs (?) some time ago that are typically due at 150,000. Would have to check the service records for details. Long story short- as I recall - is the engine mounts were replaced so while they had easy access to the engine they did a bunch of later to be expensive services early. I haven’t thought too much about price. Would love the first digit to be an 8 but I may be tripp’n.

Based on Cars.com, I think you’ll get more than you’re expecting.
Would consider if closer.


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Originally Posted by jm2e

Roanoke VA

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No kidding. Spent considerable time there. What took you? Never used them but guessing one of the options is Boxy?

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Originally Posted by jm2e

Roanoke VA

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Jm, I have a Roanoke buddy into Volvos and asked him. Keep in mind that his definition of old car might be 2015. But here is his response.

"I have tried the Indy guy - he's good on old Volvos but not so much the new. There is a garage I have used - Wayne's. They seemed to know a lot about Volvos even though they don't specialize in them. Very thorough. Not much cheaper. Dealer isn't bad but can take a long time to get in. Also need to research any parts you may need as they mark up a lot. I have negotiated the part prices down significantly on occasion by showing them what I could order it for.

I'd try Wayne's first. On Franklin Road across from Mellow Mushroom."

Hope that helps, I had just skimmed over your problem.

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Wife is at Virginia Tech.
Boxy is my primary mechanic after abandoning the dealership. I like the owner and trust him. But for this, it felt more like he didn’t want to do the labor to fix it. More and more, I’m finding all the shops are reporting the same thing.


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Originally Posted by jm2e

Wife is at Virginia Tech.
Boxy is my primary mechanic after abandoning the dealership. I like the owner and trust him. But for this, it felt more like he didn’t want to do the labor to fix it. More and more, I’m finding all the shops are reporting the same thing.


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Tangent: my wife’s friend’s husband is the women’s soccer coach there. She used to be the assistant volleyball coach.

Funny at the wedding when the priest asked “do you, Chugger, take…”

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Originally Posted by J. Barron DeJong

Tangent: my wife’s friend’s husband is the women’s soccer coach there. She used to be the assistant volleyball coach.

Funny at the wedding when the priest asked “do you, Chugger, take…”

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Do they have a 6-8 year old luxury SUV with low miles in mint condition they’re looking to sell to a “friend” for super cheap to avoid the hassle of getting rid of it another way?


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Originally Posted by jm2e

Do they have a 6-8 year old luxury SUV with low miles in mint condition they’re looking to sell to a “friend” for super cheap to avoid the hassle of getting rid of it another way?


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Uhh, let me look into it… They have a lot of kids, so whatever they have must have a lot of seats.

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Originally Posted by jm2e

Based on Cars.com, I think you’ll get more than you’re expecting.
Would consider if closer.


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Burlington, VT is a short flight, even from Roanoke. Would be a nice ride home. Guarantee the car is in immaculate condition if Doremite is the owner.

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Originally Posted by MyNameIsAugustWest

Burlington, VT is a short flight, even from Roanoke. Would be a nice ride home. Guarantee the car is in immaculate condition if Doremite is the owner.

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All options remain on the table!


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Reading through this sage that’s a tricky one. Has indie addressed what happens if the new/used 140k engine does the same thing in 5k miles ? Not being a part of the diagnosis it’s hard to say what to think here. Did you say you had a cat code for a long time prior to this?

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Originally Posted by Aldo

Reading through this sage that’s a tricky one. Has indie addressed what happens if the new/used 140k engine does the same thing in 5k miles ? Not being a part of the diagnosis it’s hard to say what to think here. Did you say you had a cat code for a long time prior to this?

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Yea, the Cat Code is a big factor in whether it’s worth fixing with the hope of selling. Even with a new motor, nobody is gonna want a car with the check engine light on, and adding another $2-3000 to address that gets this whole thing firmly in the “cheaper to replace” category.


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Driving 4hrs to DC tomorrow to look at cars at a few different dealerships. Planning to trade in the old car for pennies (KBB $3,500, Carmax $1,700).
Is there any world where swapping my rims &tires out is worth it? Rims in decent shape, tires almost brand new. Guessing it’s a fools errand.


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Originally Posted by jm2e

Driving 4hrs to DC tomorrow to look at cars at a few different dealerships. Planning to trade in the old car for pennies (KBB $3,500, Carmax $1,700).
Is there any world where swapping my rims &tires out is worth it? Rims in decent shape, tires almost brand new. Guessing it’s a fools errand.

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Or just give it to gravity to wrench on! I'm sure he'd love to rescue the ol' girl. Once you see the trade-in prices the dealers will REALLY give you (think sub-$1000 or 500), you might as well give it away to someone who'll give it a new lease on life. Or donate it for full value for tax deduction. Or throw it on CL as a "mechanic's special" and you may get more than any other route.

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Originally Posted by jm2e

Yea, the Cat Code is a big factor in whether it’s worth fixing with the hope of selling. Even with a new motor, nobody is gonna want a car with the check engine light on, and adding another $2-3000 to address that gets this whole thing firmly in the “cheaper to replace” category.

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Yup. The cats certainly changes the calculus on it all. Bummer.

Me: "Black cars are stupid"
Also me: "oh my"

https://www.volvocars.com/us/build/x...24764905608775

Attachment 483594

That new one looks great and from what I hear they drive nicely too but all I hear is problem after problem. It's too bad.

So JM what did you end up doing? If I had space I'd love to have taken it off your hands for a project or for a parts car for our R Design.

My wife is planning to sell her 2018 XC90 T6 Momentum with ~60k miles. White exterior over brown/black interior, wheels powder coated black. Sweet ride but she needs more space. Any suggestions on where to sell? Trade-in back to the dealership is lower than expected.

Have you considered BAT?

Mulling over the what-ifs for future Volvo purchases (hopefully not for several years).
I generally have a bunch of Volvo engine reliability right now. Not with my current rig (ended up with a 2020 XC60 T6), but just in general. Thinking about how the 6cyl Turbo T6 shit the bed on me, and that was supposed to be the "Good" one. Now I've got the 4cly Supercharged T6, which is supposed to have almost exactly the same HP, but feels way less powerful in actually driving, AND fuel economy is almost exactly the same, AND they've already discontinued it. How many years was that? Seemed like a short run before they ditched the whole thing. Then they went with the Mild Hybrids. Same HP, but they get it from adding an anemic electric motor instead of the turbos? Or some shit like that. And dealer told me they're already talking about phasing most of these out after just a couple years. I've also heard that power availability can be super inconsistent with the Plug In hybrid.
Hoping that when I eventually need a new vehicly, they will have sorted their shit out.
One more thing: Volvo consistently sucks at any modern tech integration. Which is kind of the future of cars. Which is also discouraging.
/blog

74168054

I'm mulling over my next car purchase. My daughter has 2012?? C30 with 80k km she bought it last year from the original owner and it's in mint condition. She starts law school in September and won't need her car anymore. I don't really need a new car but it would basically be free because I'm probably going to end up giving her the money for school anyway. Not a T5. Is the C30 a decent car?

Go to swedespeed.com and read up on them.

They're the nicest to drive, small hatch out there. It really is a pleasant little, easy car to drive and it rides nicer than any other car that size that I've ever ridden in.

JM2E, what went bad in your turbo T6? Apologies, I have the same engine in my S60 and have heard similarly how ‘bulletproof’ it is, but I just had my first substantial reliability issue last week at 117k mi. I think I have a bad line in/out of the turbo somewhere, got the CEL and ‘engine system service required’ warnings. Car runs okay, but it’s a bit sluggish and I suspect it’s running rich.

Meanwhile my two redblocks keep on truckin.

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Originally Posted by liv2ski

Go to swedespeed.com and read up on them.

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Haha. That’s like saying “go to Redit and read up on sex”


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Originally Posted by Jumper Bones

JM2E, what went bad in your turbo T6?

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They told me “burned out valve”. Repair estimates were $8k-$12k plus weeks to months before fixed.
Got $3k as a trade in.


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mrs ::: ::: decided to sell her 2017 golf sportwagon to keep a 2012 C30 6mt R design that our son is giving up

We just took it for a weekend away & she loved revving it up to speed, just smiling driving.

Just got the old girl back from a steering column replacement. 160k+ 2006 V70R 6 speed manual.