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I should have taken a before pic, but I had a little bit of clear coat failure on the fender flare. So, bit of sanding, a little black paint, a little more sanding, a bit of clear coat, a little wet sanding and a quick buff, and whoa, nice looking flare.
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The new normal. Of my three cars, only the Honda Odyssey was a five minute open the hood, pop off the wire clasp, replace bulb kinda job.Quote:
Originally Posted by Skidog
Attachment 213203Quote:
Originally Posted by basinbeater
In the opposite of an adventure, I failed to replace the brake rotors/pads on my Honda Fit when I couldn't for the life of me get one caliper mounting bolt loose. I tried a box end wrench, a socket, sprayed it with WD40 and penetrating oil, nothing. The other three came off, but one beat me. I didn't even get to the rusted out rotor mounting screws (but I was willing to drill those out). The bolt head started to deform and so the car is now in the shop.
On the other hand, just removing the caliper from the other side and banging at the mounting screws with a manual impact driver for a bit (I just wanted to see if they'd by chance budge, I wasn't going to only do one side with the bolt stuck on the other), totally fixed the brake squeal issue that was bothering my wife and sparked the effort in the first place. If I'd really wanted to, I could have gone a while longer without changing the rotors.
I spent a lot of time last weekend being "helper boy" for an actual professional mechanic in an actual professional shop. I was shocked how good he was at dealing with rust and stuck hardware. This stuff that completely stops your project and ruins your day is like all day every day for this guy, it was crazy watching him just plow through it.
Here's a little ditty for all you home garage wrenchers out there.
About 10 years ago I stripped the set screw on a rotor and was stumped. I took it to a 70 year old Japanese mechanic down the street and he had that damn thing off faster than it took him to take the wheel off. He charged me $30 and laughed at me.Quote:
Originally Posted by ill-advised strategy
12345
OMG, yeah, I would like to shadow a professional mechanic and watch how its really done.
I finally got to replace the front drive axle of my F-250. Over last winter I lent my truck to my friend, and within three months two people had (slow-motion) crashes into him, and the u-joint failed on the 4x4. The wheel, brake caliper, manual hubs and rotor were easy to remove, but I spent about 45 minutes annoying the neighbors with a sledge hammer and a block of wood to remove the spindle. It sure is a trip hammering away at a precision piece where wheel bearings spin to remove a part. The truck is finally back on four wheels, and now I can start on the real project, replacing the pistons, doing a tune up and replacing broken parts on the snowmobile.
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Does anyone know why Ford built the F-250 with reverse shaped leaf springs on the front? And is there a cheap, but still proper way to put a 2 or 3 inch lift on an old truck that isn't really worth much?
I had ‘98 F-250 and my understanding is that truck is not a candidate for a simple lift due to a finicky front end.Quote:
Originally Posted by Gerome
No clue why the springs were designed like that but it sure rode nice. I miss that beast.
Damn, yeah that split front axle is weird. When I was at the truck dismantler shop picking up the front driveshaft, they said a solid front axle was around $1500 out of a junked truck! This truck rode well carrying a Six-Pack camper, but its a little firm without it now. I'll just have to start offroading as it is then.
that scissor action frontend is awful. I can see how they ran that on the 1/2 ton, but to put that on a 3/4 ton was ridiculous.
Yup. The real problem with the ttb on the 250s is that its combined with leaf springs. When the axle cycles it wants to twist the springs, and then the axle wants to move forward with the front shackle. WTF.
I really should have just ripped mine out instead of doing ball joints, but a D60 from a 350 is $$$.
If you don't have clearance issues, I'd skip the lift.
The dirt every day truck lift looks just right, but the twin traction beam sounds too complicated to bother with. I was still able to put 35" tires on my truck without a lift by pushing the front bumper forward using about 100 washers and longer bolts to hold the bumper on. Interesting that that truck will get about $7k with the lift, 37" tires, rear locking diff. and winch. I picked up my truck for $3k about 7 years ago. It would probably take another $4k to get a winch and lift, and I still don't actually drive the truck more than a couple hundred miles a year.
Finally got around to fixing my exhaust pipe. Here's the front pipe with the broken flanges:
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There was a good bit of rust to fuck with (from its first few years in Ohio), but I managed to replace the pipe, gaskets, and downstream O2 sensor with only minor shenanigans. No more sounding like a "souped up" high schooler's Honda Civic.
Broke an exhaust stud today. Almost had it all the way out. Patience is the hardest skill to master. Much cussing ensued
Trying to finish changing the glow plugs on my 06 Sierra 3500. Changed 6 a while ago and working on #2 today. #2 is behind a hose (which if anyone can tell me what it is, much appreciated). Got that one out and back in but couldn't get a torque wrench on it so went with what I could. #4 is behind the steering column and worries if I break the harness nut off I won't be able to get the plug out with only a 12mm box end (can't get a deep socket on cause of the steering column). So, contemplating how to proceed (can't close the garage with the truck inside so thinking attempting the last plug outside is best so at least the garage can be closed if thing go sideways).
Changed the oil and tires to winter (having the tires off spurred on the glow plug change) on mine and the gf's vehicles.
Photos
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What is this pipe?
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Damn steering column - right in the way.
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Would a crow's foot socket attachment work? (Google to see what it looks like). Sometimes those let you get access to hard to reach bolts.Quote:
Originally Posted by shafty85
I'll look into that, thanks
Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
This thread makes my knuckles hurt.
Finally replaced the transmission on my Celica back in August. Figured the noise that had been getting worse for a long time was probably various tranny bearings going, but kept hoping it was something else. Had in parked for a year just delaying the inevitable.
Trailered the car to my brother's place in AB and figured I could buy a Celica 5-speed at PickNPull for the usual $140 but there were none to be found. Nor at any fancy wreckers where they take the parts off for you and shelf them. So I ended up buying a beater Celica with a smoking engine but good transmission for cheap. I'll sell it for parts or as a project car later and recoup most of the cost.
Having done the clutch in my Celica a few years ago I knew just pulling the tranny was about a six-hour job for a hack like me, so now I had to pull the good one, pull the bad one, then install the good one. And not mess up any of the 1,268 electrical and vacuum connections. FML.
This was my very high-tech troubleshooting system for the test drive that determined, yes (fuck), the transmission is destined for the great junk yard in the sky. Or at least the hatch area of the donor car.
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Donor Celica. Guy sold it cheap because his fiancé wanted it out of their garage NOW. But he did get to keep his sweet motorbike, and maybe one of his balls.
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One transmission out.
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Second one also done.
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Glad to have my brother's shop to work in. And him to help me wrestle the trannys in and out of position. And to weld things when I broke then with my delicate mechanic's touch.
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He would never need to do this to keep tracks of bolts. But I have trouble remembering where I parked at the mall so this technique is crucial to avoid catastrophic failures later on.
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Swapped some new pieces out of the donor Celica, including an aftermarket stereo with nav and these sweet slotted, drilled rotors. Total overkill for a little car that weighs only 2,400 lbs. Snot now flies out your nose when you stomp on the brake pedal.
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I spread the job into three six-hour days to avoid tiredness resulting in mental errors/unsafe actions/potential death.
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Worst part is always cleaning up.
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Celica runs great again. Next need to do a bit of bodywork where my old Dad backed his car into mine.
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I've now pulled the tranny on a Celica so many times I could probably do it in the dark.
I also learned that when using google to find installation tips always type out "transmission" in full and not "tranny." My eyes are still burning.
Lol on the last bit
The steering shaft should separate and allow access. Pics are dead in this guide but you can probably find some others with a little searching. You may already know this, but replacing glow plugs while the engine is warm is supposed to help with removal.Quote:
Originally Posted by shafty85
The pipe in question is an intercooler pipe.
Bought a 99 Mercedes e320 4matic wagon for a grand. Really good shape for 200k on the clock but needs some work. Vibrates like one of those beds in a Poconos motel at idle...
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Did trans filter, electronics connector that is prone to leakage and fluid. Easy peazy. Interesting how Mercedes engineered to trans pan bolts so you can't over tighten and bend the pan. Bunch of light bulbs replaced, new air, cabin and charcoal filters. Fixed the rear latch. Hood struts, idler pulley and serp belt. This car is stupid easy to work on all is lovey dovey.
Then we do motor mounts. Passenger side easy, pull the alternator wham bam done
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Then we had to do drivers side. Holy fuck what sadist engineer buried the motor mount under the exhaust manifold and behind two heat shields. Had to drop the drivers side exhaust which meant torching 2 bolts that were so rusted you couldn't see the threads. Mercedes thought ahead and have inserts in the exhaust manifold that the bolts screw into instead of the manifold being threaded. When one of those bolt broke in the manifold simple popped out the insert and used a long bolt and nut + washers since the merc stealership isnt open in Sunday's. Passenger side was 1 hr. Drivers side 5 hours plus a trip to harbour freight where we chased threads in the motor mount in the hand tool isle lol and a trip to lowes for M8 stainless hardware. No pics of the process on that one but trust me it's the most hideous thing I've ever done laying on my back in a driveway (and that's saying something). A twelver of beers later the white whale purrs like a kitten and the only vibrations are those of stoke....
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I finally got around to doing some paint related work on the cruiser I bought in reno. The initial sanding job was a bit of a nightmare. I needed a bigger compressor to paint with, so I went out and found a nice big Mac tools 2 stage compressor. Keeps up with my used hutchins da sander. But I was getting a little water in the lines after extended sanding, so, I rigged this up at Lowes to cool the air in my lines. Works like a charm.
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But I finally got it torn down and sanded, bought some paint stuff, and finally got around to priming it last night. It was a bit of a struggle getting the gun to spray nice, first time and all, so I had some areas that needed to be done again. So tonight, it got another quick sand with 400grit and a rinse, and back in the bay well see how spraying goes tomorrow.
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The 07 Outback decided to say fuck the easy way on the ball joint job. After trying a half dozen different techniques I ended up having to take knuckle off. Now at least I can fight with the ball joint on the bench standing up with a vise, and decent light.
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I'm feeling really old and lazy , paying someone $120 to replace control arms on my minivan. Did it the first time and I don't feel like rolling around on the garage floor to save a few bucks.
96 cruiser got a fresh brake caliper and a new seat base.
This thing is for sale... $9k, with 170k mi... Also got buffed and polished, shines nice now...
Pm me....
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Rotating the tires on the pickup truck this morning, and visually inspecting the underside, and notice that the front left sway bar link is missing. Oops. Must've fallen off sometime over summer. Right side link is still there.
Oddly, it doesn't drive any worse. GMC Sierra 2500, rides like shit and handles badly at all times.
Rockauto here I come...
Had a Craigslist mechanic flake on me this morning so I went to a place that charges $30/hr for a rack with tools to replace control arms. Sure was nice not crawling on the floor of the garage . They even helped when I got stuck on the second side. Had the passenger side done in 30 minutes but the other side took freaking two hours.
Are they reversed shackles, or are the convex? I am not familiar with those. I have reverse shackles on my CJ, and it makes the highway ride a lot smoother. It negatively affects braking a bit, but I am used to it. Supposedly it can be very dangerous in some off road descents, but being in FL, I don't worry much about long steep descents.Quote:
Originally Posted by Gerome
Not sure if that answers your question or not- I will have to look up some pics of the F 250.
Most of the OBS F-250/350 front springs are straight-to-convex relative to the road. I'd guess it was for ride quality.
Top of page 13 on this thread is where I posted a picture showing the leaf spring, although it doesn't show the front or rear connections. It doesn't look like a leaf spring that I could flip upside down and all of the stock F-250s I've seen look similar. I'm thinking about getting an add-a-leaf kit for about $90, which is something I'd do for fun. It looks like the lift kit on the dirt every day truck would be around $1300. and a lot of fiddling around with the suspension for my interest.Quote:
Originally Posted by warthog
Got some winter tires for the commuter car. Also found some nice period style 5 mesh wheels, but dammit! They rub! Just a hair. So got some 3mm spacers coming, and that should solve it.
Can't wait to do some rwd donuts at the church!
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And just for reference, here is the summer tire wheel and tire...
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Like those style 5 wheels!
I just put my snows on my 330i yesterday on some very nasty looking style 73's I've been running for a few seasons. Before I could do that though I to scrounge one "new" winter wheel up on craigslist because one was cracked and wouldn't hold air. Never notice a whole lot of change though because the tread on the Michelin Alpins I'm running ain't very aggressive at all. Fine on wet and ice but no Bueno when the snow piles up.
Yeah I am pretty stoked on them! I ordered up new center caps as well. They took a lot of clean up when I got them, but the paint was in pretty good shape, and they came out pretty clean. I bought them from the weirdest people I have ever met. They live up in Park City in sun peak, so pretty nice, but have this giant storage unit in Murray that is a certifiable disaster area of random car parts. At first they could only find 3 wheels, oh, the other one is in our other storage unit, well they couldn't find it there either, so now I am annoyed at wasting my time, so i leave. They call me up like 3 weeks later, and say, we found the other one, and can we bring them by your house for you. Um ok, I'll take another look. So they bring 4 matching bbs wheels by, and a 5th Fundo spare. I buy them for $125.
Apparently she has a dealers license, and buys broken cars at auction and parts them out, but I don't know how she ever finds anything in the messes she has, and I have no idea how you support living in sun peak in PC parting out pieces of shit and losing everything. pretty weird. But it worked out in the end.
$125 for a set of basketweaves and a spare is a smokin deal