Love that route. Having it to yourself really ups the fun factor. Otherwise you probably wouldn't have been in the shade for that pitch :/Quote:
Originally Posted by turbomike15
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Love that route. Having it to yourself really ups the fun factor. Otherwise you probably wouldn't have been in the shade for that pitch :/Quote:
Originally Posted by turbomike15
We did Great Zot>>Rewritten>>Rebuff's. I can't handle the heat, so was happy to be in the shade all day. My partner on the other hand...Quote:
Originally Posted by zartagen
Broken mountain bike + new trail shoes + father's day = self-powered solo day on Olympus. Sandy->West Slabs/North Summit/Neffs->Sandy
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^ I've been wanting to do an early/fast scramble up there since I moved this way. How long car to car? What's the scramble like?
Bike-to-bike time was about 5 hours, but I got off-route on the descent into Neffs and did about a mile of some pretty hateful bushwacking which ate a lot of time. The guidebook description of the walk-off to Neffs is pretty vague and assumes you have some beta from the Kamp's Ridge approach and climb. The approach took about 50 minutes, the slabs took about an hour, and another hour to the north summit. If you skipped the north summit and just did the westerly walk-off back to the bottom of the slabs I'd say 3-3.5 hours car-to-car should be easily doable.
The slabs themselves were great. Noticeably less hairy feeling than the south ridge of Superior IMO. You definitely wouldn't want to take a full head-over-heels backwards fall, but pretty tame feeling just cruising up on all fours. I actually found myself looking for sections that were thinner and more interesting climbing. You could probably make the whole thing 5.4 if you wanted. Honestly, there were a couple short downclimbs on the ridge scramble to the north summit that felt sketchier than anything on the slabs.
Watch out for rattlesnakes. I damn near put my hand on that first one, but thankfully it was still pretty cool and a bit cloudy so he wasn't active and didn't even really acknowledge my presence. I saw the second one later near the north summit and he was pissed off. I passed two people on the ridge scramble who said they had seen three already.
I read up a bit on Kamp's Ridge while trying to figure out how I screwed up the walk-off and it sounds pretty awesome. Sounds a lot like the south ridge of Superior with a lot of knife-edge 5th-5.4. There's a short 5.6 crux that sounds potentially questionable for soloing, but apparently you can skirt it if needed. Hit me up if you might be interested.
https://www.mountainproject.com/v/kamps-ridge/108182481
You just rock normal hiking shoes for that, or did you wear something stickier?
Trail runners. Brought climbing shoes in my pack but didn't use them. Approach shoes would be ideal if you have them, otherwise throwing climbing shoes in your pack wouldn't be a bad idea just in case you need the extra confidence.
I've always wanted to do the slabs but figured I didn't quite have the head for the free solo, but I found the south ridge of Superior to be really comfortable so may hit them up. Thanks for the beta. Looked fun other than the snakes.
Yeah, looked like a nice little Sunday there! Thanks for the beta
This is pretty funny.
Lover's Chimney at the Leap. (I loved it. whatsupdoc, who lead it, thought it was a bit dirty.)
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Cragging with the 7-year-old.
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Awesome. There's a classic chimney down the road at sugarloaf, tooQuote:
Originally Posted by AKbruin
I always felt that the slabs were a bit more serious than Superior or the N ridge of the Pfeiff.Quote:
Originally Posted by zion zig zag
I'd never bring climbing shoes on Sup and I don't think you're ever linking more than 2 climbing moves in a row before standing on a ledge. There's exposure but it's rarely consequential and there are only a couple places where you have to get serious.
The W slabs feel more like an actual climb than a scramble. I've simul climbed them a couple of times with people who didn't think twice about going ropeless on Sup but didn't feel comfortable unroping until the last third of the slabs. I'm always happy to wear climbing shoes up there even though approach would probably work.
The first 2 "pitches" are legit 5.5, the slab is low angle but it's a jug haul, it's all about small edges and the occasional smear. You can take breaks on ledges here and there but you're certainly not walking around the way you are on Sup. Things ease up a bit as you get higher and there are several fat ledges and trees that help decrease the sense of exposure. If you trend left or tackle the roofs though it's easy to make the W slabs consistently 5.5 and there are several spots on the upper wall with great sections of hand crack and clean slabs up to 5.7.
Run up there with climbing shoes and treat it as a rock climb and you'll probably love it without getting scared shitless. If you don't go to the N summit head up the ridge to the first short downclimb into the gully which marks the E edge of the slabs. That's the only tolerable way off the face, everything else involves hellish brush.
Man those snakes freak me out.
Nice. Haven't done Sugarloaf or Phantom Spires yet. Or the Emeralds or a million other places, for that matter.Quote:
Originally Posted by bodywhomper
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Something recent:
Me in "supernova" 7C/V9 magic wood Switzerland.
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^^^Beauty, is that the crux? Looks like a sweet wall, and must be tough at that altitude.
It is the crux. Decent rests ever 20 feet or so. Favorite route of the summer so far.
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More ticks from Lover's Leap (East Crack and Bear's Reach).
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The thing about climbing, as someone who started last year at age 40, is that it's so damn humbling. I keep expecting things to get easier and that my trajectory through climbing grades will be steady and linear only to get my ass consistently kicked. It's part of the fun I suppose.
Actually it only gets worse. When my limit was 5.12 b/c and I had given 4 burns, I could not do a 5.11c/d as a fun last route of the day. When I started doing 5.13c/d I could do a 5.12d as last route of the day to chill out.Quote:
Originally Posted by AKbruin
In bouldering it's even worse. V4 and v5 feel pretty much similar but the difference between v9 and v10 is a whole dimension. And I my v14 buddy tells me it only gets worse the higher you go. He can do v13 in a few sessions but needs months for a single v14 that suits him.
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I climb with a guy that started at 40. He's now 53 and taking down 12+ on trips to Rifle, the Red, Potrero Chico, Vinales, and BC. I don't think he has ever found things to be easy either, but he trains hard and continues to inch toward 5.13. Make the time to get better and not excuses, I guess. Certainly a lesson I should learn if I ever want to get off my v6 plateau.
It sucks getting old. It is still possible to do things at a high level, it just takes more time, dedication and commitment, none of which I have. I am content at climbing at a lower level and just enjoy being out for a day moving on the rock. I no longer need to prove anything and leave the posturing and chest thumping to the young bucks.
I would rather ski, run, climb, cycle, et al at a moderate level then to spend all my time trying to do any one of them at a high level.
Keep getting out there F and enjoy the hell out of it, especially with the kids. I just did the Venusian Blind on Temple Crag and had a blast. It was the longest sustained climb I have done. It's only 5.7, but it takes most of the day and is some really nice rock. I felt pretty good, even for an old man. Pics to follow.
D- Please post a TR on Venusian Blind! That (and a slew of other things) are on my list.
Anyhow, I'm not super motivated to climb hard grades. I just want to get to the point where I'll be comfortable and confident on the moderate trad/alpine stuff.
Just a few cell phone pics from the last 4 months or so:
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nice!
can you tell us the name of the routes? I'm just curious!
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Had a great time at this little pumpy sport crag on my way back from remote Quebec. Shade, river, and 6-8 bolt bliss of jug haul hero overhanging 5.10s. Closest thing I've ever seen to a gym outside, fun place.
Yellow spur in Eldo and the South face of Washington column.
thank you! Great stuff!
First trad leads yesterday on Donner Summit. The approach was terrible.
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Notes: I now understand the need to double up on C4s. Also, I realize it's not fashionable, but I really like tricams (pink and red). They seem easier to place and more confidence inspiring than nuts.
Smaller tricams (pink and red) will never leave my rack
I can't post the couple of pics I took because this forum's attachment features sucks sweaty donkey balls, and Photobucket sucks even worse.Quote:
Originally Posted by AKbruin
Someday I will get around to joining a new photo hosting site. Sorry!
Venusian Blind was pretty fun...long but a lot of fun, clean climbing. We had to bail on the last pitch due to weather. Summit arete and lightening are not a good combinations:eek:
Nice! School house rock? The missus and I did kindergarten crack years ago as one of our first trad leads.Quote:
Originally Posted by AKbruin
I hear you on tricams, I'd use a tricam first if the placement was right. My weird gear obsession is offset friends. Nearly always find a placement for them.
Yes, indeed. Warmed up on Kindergarten Crack and then did Junior High.Quote:
Originally Posted by Flounder
Pink tricam is a classic. There's a reason you like those small ones. Just don't set it too hard or your follower with swing it at your nuts at the next belay.
Sounds like you guys are set for the gunks.
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These two boulders are parked next to my Airbnb on a new dirt road north of montreal. I tried to put up a route on the left arrête but chickened out without a partner or pad. Certainly potential on all sides with routes of almost 20'.
ZZZ on the East Ridge of Buck Mt, GTNP.
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Mt. Challenger - NCNP
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SWEET.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bronco