East Coast Surf

I had the best day! Easily the happiest guy on the beach leaving Jenness after a few hours there, hooting and hollering after connecting a few rights, even tried a left :rolleyes2.

Started on the day at the southernmost part of Long Sands, few guys out. Was wicked good then it filled with high tide and went into a lull. I would say consistently waist with a couple chest that I got pummeled by :biggrin: Was weird seeing things underwater as I went over... going to have to get used to a rocky coastline after a few bumps.

Then I tried to figure out the River, I might of well had been in middle Earth, did more u-turns than I could count. Went through that intersection from hell 5 or so times. But so happy with how it ended. Glad I had to leave work before noon to attend to "personal matters"

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Originally Posted by whitekingsalmon

http://youtu.be/IryOQfEmgtQ,,,,, if I lived on the east coast ( thank the lord I dont) I would invest in one of these.

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Let's not get too desperate

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Originally Posted by whitekingsalmon

Attachment 157041,,,,, uluwatu yesterday morning,,,,,, looks pretty empty to me

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Much needed stoke

if you get stoked by 5,000 surfers... ouch.

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Originally Posted by Hugh Conway

if you get stoked by 5,000 surfers... ouch.

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Is there really 5000 people in that photo that I missed? I swear it looks empty and like some nice long peelers - not sure when that wasn't stoke worthy

Anyone else keeping tabs on this potential tropical depression 93L?

It's a huge system in size but it's having trouble picking up steam - the forecasted GFS track it may take looks good for waves and good for people's homes not being destroyed - other paths not so muchAttachment 157050

I asked him how many people were out and he said about 40, he said no biggy thou everyone was getting shacked and spread out,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
hugh no I havent been to bali in july,,, Im usually in alaska this time of year,,,, and only a fool would go surf in a famous place in peak high season,

thinkin about east coast and I forgot about when I lived in buenos aires my chick and I went to uruguay in the summer,,,,,, all the beach towns have lots of uncrowded waves, punta del diablo,,, wowwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwww and trunkable

nc slater,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,good time to head to jost van dyke, british virgin islands.

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Originally Posted by whitekingsalmon

http://youtu.be/IryOQfEmgtQ,,,,, if I lived on the east coast ( thank the lord I dont) I would invest in one of these.

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My buddy has one, mad fun, never wake surfed but wakeboarding on it is unreal, you can make the wake scary huge.

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Originally Posted by whitekingsalmon

Attachment 157041,,,,, uluwatu yesterday morning,,,,,, looks pretty empty to me

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That place ain't real, clearly photoshopped...

hey kook theres a reason nobody was out,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, its waist high,,,,,,, jajajajaaaaaaaaa

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Originally Posted by blu

And wicked wicked fun! Perfect shape, clean, and giggly

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Yeah, but what you don't understand is fishboy's imaginary girlfriend in Niagara Falls is way cooler than your life. I mean, do your "friends" send you stock photos from around the world? Jerry's got it right. Kingfisher is just looking for friends like how Roxanne Russom kicked me in the balls in 7th grade cause she wanted to go out. At the very least we should pity the fool.

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Originally Posted by IceCoast070

My buddy has one, mad fun, never wake surfed but wakeboarding on it is unreal, you can make the wake scary huge.

That place ain't real, clearly photoshopped...

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my buddy wouldnt photoshop any pic,,,,,, and anyone that has been to this break knows this pic is real.... i know it looks to good to be true but its the real deal.

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Originally Posted by whitekingsalmon

my buddy wouldnt photoshop any pic,,,,,, and anyone that has been to this break knows this pic is real.... i know it looks to good to be true but its the real deal.

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Sorry bro but unless you can post another picture just like it with you, in a banana hammock, hanging out with two flamingos, along with a with dated and time stamped sign, I simply can't believe you.

I'm a no go. Got collect board and suit and besides made plans to eat donuts, make mud castles and look for crabs with the kids at drakes. Unless plans change.

http://youtu.be/tpwMrqAiJ4U,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, o ya traveling and warm water,,,, my 2 favorite things about surfing

I believe it. Would have even bet it was a bit bigger. Drakes was breaking pretty nicely around mid tide at what looked to be waist to chest. A few long boards out along the stretch from j-land to the little river. Look like more new a taking it up. Won't be Lon before you might be needing to share waves in these parts. Should be good for the shops.

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Originally Posted by blu

mmmmm, post surf coffee.........

well sweet jeezus!

this mornings breakfast board reads: short board juice filling a shoulder high glass of bliss and not enough folks out to fill a four top, for 2 hours:)

super sweet surprise morning. everyone musta been burnt out coming into day 4 in a row of waist high or better clean surf (18 days this month). surfed from 620-820 at the riv. at about 650 a fog rolled which kept anyone that was late to the party from actually seeing what they were missing. love that:)

some gorgeous waves came through with good zip and very thumpy inside sections. one particular wave set me up for one of those session making high face deep carved turns. haven't felt one of that quality in quite some time.

anyone else?

tomorrow?:party:

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18 days this month huh? Not bad at all blu not bad at all.

I'd do some strange for that much surf time

Inland = 😳🔫

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Originally Posted by blu

not bad. Not a full 31 which we do get some months, but good for summer. Think i had 40ish sessions in march. That's a whole lotta 37 degree water time:eek:

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That's pretty awesome. I live over an hour from my spot so I only get 2 days a week, max, to go. Moving this winter though so that will change.

Grab a shit ton at the river this morning with two of the original five I grew up with. Seeing one has passed, and a second don't surf anymore and a third lives in CO, we did pretty well with the reunion session. Only two others out who were stoked that we were going a clinic. Perfect knee to waste zipper lines, providing bowly take offs, rippin top turns, log pumping sections, numerable nose rides and a few cover ups. There would have been tubes if I were able to crunch my body smaller. Great time with some old buddies. Was thinking, it might have been twenty years since I last surfed there. Without doubt it has been a good ten.

At short sands now with the little guy. Forgot how perfect this place is or that age. Playground, bowlarama, arcade, showers, salt water taffy all adherent and perfect tiny wars to play on. The wedge was even working a bit.

Attachment 157112

Hurricane Bertha is weakening and I'm going to surf city NC this weekend to grovel for mush on the Funboard and test the new handplane

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Originally Posted by Ottime

At short sands now with the little guy. Forgot how perfect this place is or that age. Playground, bowlarama, arcade, showers, salt water taffy all adherent and perfect tiny wars to play on. The wedge was even working a bit.

Attachment 157112

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Ahhh, nothing like hucking some candle pin at the bowlarama!



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Ott, how don't you constantly miss New England? Hell if I went anywhere for longer than a decade I would have my ass back here in a heartbeat. I'll want to get out some day, but I know I'll be back. I would love to just come back to UNH and be a guest lecturer or Professor for the later half of my career. Own a nice house in Rye. I am not much of a planner though so who knows

Life takes over. Of course regular 15sec plus surf and an average of 500" of snow a year nearby help. Plus no shoveling, or heat with humidity help. If anything were to change for us in Santa Cruz, the Portland is on the short list and no where but NE would really make any list. What I really miss around here is from Labor Day through Christmas. Love,love love that time of year around here. Besides, all I need to do is drive through Ohunquit once in August to be ready to head back west.

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Originally Posted by Ottime

Life takes over. Of course regular 15sec plus surf and an average of 500" of snow a year nearby help. Plus no shoveling, or heat with humidity help. If anything were to change for us in Santa Cruz, the Portland is on the short list and no where but NE would really make any list. What I really miss around here is from Labor Day through Christmas. Love,love love that time of year around here. Besides, all I need to do is drive through Ohunquit once in August to be ready to head back west.

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Where are all you guys located? Mostly Maine? Any New Jersey people? Or maybe even Georgia/Florida?

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Originally Posted by nc_slater

Where are all you guys located? Mostly Maine? Any New Jersey people? Or maybe even Georgia/Florida?

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NYC/Long Island

Grew up surfing Maine. Now in Cali. But with a three year old, we have been making regular trips east the last four summers. OBX used to be the regular trip spot once we finished high school (for those of us who stuck around here for school/work). And I spent five years in Manhattan and surfing mostly Rockaway with a goo amount of Rhode Island and a smattering if LI. And of course a few stops at Sebastian Inlet on the way to te Keys with the family.

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Originally Posted by Ottime

Grew up surfing Maine. Now in Cali. But with a three year old, we have been making regular trips east the last four summers. OBX used to be the regular trip spot once we finished high school (for those of us who stuck around here for school/work). And I spent five years in Manhattan and surfing mostly Rockaway with a goo amount of Rhode Island and a smattering if LI. And of course a few stops at Sebastian Inlet on the way to te Keys with the family.

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Nice Ottime, you've lived all over, super cool to be able to say that - I've always been in Raleigh - after marriage and kid possibly relocating to closer to the beach - but you can't really beat a 2 hour trip to wrightsville beach and a 2 hour trip to Boone (mountains) from Raleigh...

Surfed in some torrential rain, thunderstorm, and lightning this AM.

Sketchy to say the least - but oh so glassy

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Originally Posted by nc_slater

Surfed in some torrential rain, thunderstorm, and lightning this AM.

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that's some scary shit.

What's the word on this storm? So far it looks like it may be too far out to sea to help bump up the NH/ME swell very much.

RI looks like it might be the NE Choice.... I'd love to get back out on the K's with those sweet, sweet, long-assed lefts.

Actually too close for ME/NH. The cape blocks us up here. RI/LI could pick up some before it zips NE. Ks could be a good call, but you might be needing SE sand bottom breaks. At 65knts I'd expect shorter period than what you want at Ks. The vineyard could be working nicely. Late tues or early wed could get a bit of side band up in these parts if we are lucky. My east coast window closes around 8am on wed.

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Originally Posted by Ottime

Actually too close for ME/NH. The cape blocks us up here. RI/LI could pick up some before it zips NE. Ks could be a good call, but you might be needing SE sand bottom breaks. At 65knts I'd expect shorter period than what you want at Ks. The vineyard could be working nicely. Late tues or early wed could get a bit of side band up in these parts if we are lucky. My east coast window closes around 8am on wed.

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Ottime: Better than a Surfline premium report.

Bertha has turned out to be quite the pansy hurricane - at one point the weather nerds were talking about what a "massive system" it was if it could only display more "convection" it could be "huuuugggeee!!!"

But it ended up being a huge turd.

Screw the nerds :biggrin:

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Originally Posted by nc_slater

Bertha has turned out to be quite the pansy hurricane - at one point the weather nerds were talking about what a "massive system" it was if it could only display more "convection" it could be "huuuugggeee!!!"

But it ended up being a huge turd.

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nothing happening down there?

So my kid just grabbed a gig giving lessons...I had no idea how much $$$ they make. Damn, that's a great part time gig to compliment his restaurant job

Trajectory.

Basically hurricanes only through solid swell in the direction they are moving until they hit CAT3 or bigger. Even then, the difference between having on move toward you and have one move parallel to you is pretty huge.

Basically they are just too compact of systems to have it work other wise.

Also, they tend to produce swell as if they were a ball bouncing in the ocean, as opposed to the typical wind gradient fetch. The winds are not movin in the same direction over a large area of water. Instead they are wrapping aroun a core. Hence, they create odd bursts an shadows of swell.

Check the WAM and Navy maps next time a good size storm builds. Then compare that to a typical NPAC system. Way different swell models.

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Originally Posted by Mr brownstone

Lil bertha swell was showing this am. Like 1.9ft @ 12 seconds. :fm:

sweet longboard sesh just a c-hair north of the restaurant. Glassy mini walls. Not too many closeouts despite the not so friendly longer period beach break surf.

Tomorrow looks a bit more funner and thursday is looking even more funererer.

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Where at?

East coasters - will be in Burlington next Wed - Mon the 18th. Mainly busy with a wedding, but have thoughts that it would be kind of funny to drive and go surfing.

Anything on the radar that would make surfing the EC for the first time worth it? :fm: (or will it just make san diego look like bali this time of year)

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Originally Posted by jtran10

East coasters - will be in Burlington next Wed - Mon the 18th. Mainly busy with a wedding, but have thoughts that it would be kind of funny to drive and go surfing.

Anything on the radar that would make surfing the EC for the first time worth it? :fm: (or will it just make san diego look like bali this time of year)

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hmmmmm, seems as tho someone was upset by my offering you a place to stay, beer, and a board to borrow if you head to the coast on your trip east;)