looks like the right tool for an 8 year old kid with some tamarack
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looks like the right tool for an 8 year old kid with some tamarack
just picked up ~45,000# of wood from the black forest fire (for free!); barely charred bark.
skid-loader + neighbor's crane made for easy work.
Twelve inches of snow on May 11. It looks like if I ever want to see my yard again I will be cutting some wood.
What does ~45,000# of wood look like?
Weird wood use year: even though we had a spell of relatively extreme cold (and dry unfortunately) overall our wood usage is down - only blew through 2 cords.
Got another cord of crappy alder block split that needs some more early summer love and then the pile (2+ cords) of the coniferous odiferous mysterious stuff that burns really well to chop. Then the summer fall dry cure and we should be set for 14/15. Might go dig up some doug fir just to be sure.
How about another 12" on 5/12! Good storm - hope we get a couple of more. After the rain a couple of weeks ago, I had almost zero snowpack on my property before 5/1, which is unheard of. Even two years ago with all the wildfire around here, we still had snow on the ground on 5/15. Hopefully the spring cycle is just late and we have another 8-10 feet on the way. Forecast is for 65 on the weekend though. I think I'll stock up on marshmallows...
Picked up what should work out to be between 5 and 6 cords of wood for $300 this weekend. Filled a 14 foot box truck wall to wall and floor to ceiling with wood. She was riding a bit heavy, but it's a rental, so why be gentle. About half of it has been split for 1-2 years and the other half is rounds that have been cut to length for 2-3 years. Have some work cut out for me in the next few weeks but that should provide me with almost all the fuel I'll need for next winter. Going to get a pallet or two of hardwood bricks to supplement as well.
Yes I was. 3 woodstoves 24/7 since late Oct. I ran out and had to go cut on my property and buy some propane @ $3.29 a gallon. It was the coldest winter I ever saw. Shit its 29 degrees right now and fires are burning as I type. The wind is blowig a good 25mph off the lake.
About 9600 here. We grow rocks, pine and aspen trees, and the occassional pricker bush. There's nothing to be done about the fall fire season, but the snow pack really tides us over until it starts raining in july. It's still snowing, but it's warm. But, it's better than nothing...
my 'plow guy' just dropped me a Fat cord of green for $175, oh hell yeah!
maple, ash and oak, not even a single piece of birch!
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My pile would be improved with some birch. All aspen and pine with a tiny bit of spruce. Just a 1/2 cord or so to be finished for next winter with 4.5 cords. Last year that can just use wood off of property, laying or standing dead. Been scouting out cut blocks for best location to find some good laying dead for the winter of 2015.
So, how many of you guys are 3+ seasons ahead?
I try to stay at least half a season ahead. Fortunate to have a sunny spot to dry the wood.
Buttah, I hear you on all of the birch except yellow birch. I would gladly take yellow birch over maple.
Ease of splitting has to come into play. White oak is a bitch. So is some maple. Personally my fave wood for burning is madrone. No ash and burns long and hot- but I don't think it grows anyplace aside from n. Cali and Oregon?
Why would you need that? Are you cutting green and need that time to season, if so that makes sense. My wood had been down for at least a year or two before I cut it and put under cover in wood shed. Still gets good sun in shed. This will have at least two winters in shed come fall. Will have two bays so can use up old wood completely without moving stuff around.
Your White Oak must be different than what grows in the east and midwest, as White Oak is widely considered to be one of the easiest to split woods. Very straight grained. I have heard wonderful things about madrone, looks like it is exclusive to your area. I am excited to have some Osage Orange in my stacks for next winter.
DougW, firewood takes much longer to season than most people realize, and does not begin to dry appreciably until it is split. I own a moisture meter and try to only burn wood that is below 20% MC, ideally below 16%. Wood needs at least 1 year, in most cases 2 after it has been split and stacked to get that dry, and it doesn't burn worth a damn in new, EPA approved stoves unless it is that dry. Oak is notorious for taking 3 or in many cases 4 summers split to get that dry. Pines, box elder and soft maple can be good to go in 6-8 months split, but most wood you're looking at 18-30 months split to season fully.
Well worth the time and effort. If it weren't for the stacks of wood in my yard, my neighbors wouldn't know I burn because seasoned wood burns so cleanly. A wood stove chimney should not produce smoke. I burned close to 6 cords this past winter and when I swept my chimney I only got about a quart of fly ash.
Caveat: Beetle-killed pine can often dry to 20% moisture content while still standing and intact, but that is one of the few exceptions to the rule that wood does not begin to dry until CSS.
But is that 3 years from standing green? and is that aging all under cover?
I see what you posted on standing dead pine. I cut down a couple and they where split 1/2 way to center. I just finished next winters wood and the newest would have been cut down last spring. Lot of it has been on ground for 4 years. Though I only split if over 6" or cottonwood.
3 years regardless of condition it was in before it was split, most tree species don't season until they are split. Some pines and silver maple are a couple exceptions. Bark is remarkably waterproof, so even a tree that has been standing dead for 5 years with its bark relatively intact can be as wet as the day it died inside.
2 summers is adequate for most kinds of wood as long as you don't live in a particularly rainy or humid part of the country. The 3 year rule/plan/whatever is basically a fail safe, after three years split and stacked any wood, no matter how slow drying, will be properly seasoned.
I also split everything that is large enough to stand on end on the block (usually anything over 2 or 2.5 inches in diameter), after witnessing some rounds of that size sizzle and spit water from the ends when I was sure they would have dried.
It does sound like you're far enough ahead given a lot of the species you find up your way are fast to season.
As far as coverage goes, I only top-cover my wood. I have large racks built out of pallets and 2x6's that hold around 3 cords each, and I have sheets of corrugated plastic roofing that I have secured to the top of the racks. This keeps 90% of the rain and snow out but allows for maximum airflow through the stacks. I also have a 2, 1.333 cord racks of similar construction with clear corrugated panels on the top and sides (with 4 inch gaps for air movement) which function as solar kilns to expedite drying. It can be 72F and sunny outside, but it can be 125-130F inside the solar kiln. Build one of those bad boys in a spot with full sun, get it up on cinder blocks for enhanced airflow underneath and you can season green hardwoods in 6 months.
Man if I had to cut would I would get a hydraulic splitter the next day. Hopefully you already had a chainsaw for length.
I split 75-80% of what I burn with a Fiskars axe or a generic 8 pound maul. I don't spend more than 30 minutes or so working on a round though, if they're that stubborn, they get thrown in a pile to wait for my neighbor to bring his hydraulic splitter over. I scrounge for most of my wood, so I usually get it bucked to length, fortunately. I also have a large enough stove that anything under 21-22 inches long will fit. Nice to have that flexibility.
We have a hydro splitter but some stuff (usually fir or alder here in w oregon) is faster to do by hand.
I try to stay ahead - this stuff is now ready to go. I When I find big stashes, I get as much as I can. Worth it for me because last year I was not able to cut as much as I might have because of the Rim Fire. I have not been out cutting yet this season due to an injury, but I'm still probably good for the next 2-3 seasons. I'm a scrounge. I take advantage of everything I can get my hands on. Got a free truckload of green lodgepole in Jan on a trip to Tahoe. Came home from dumping slash at the green waste drop-off yesterday with another truckload of green oak and cedar branches scrounged from the piles people left. Cost me $7 to drop off a truckload of slash and come home with a truckload of wood that I won't even have to split.
It's got a quadra fire, which seems to work well. I didn't get in during the -20 weather though. Been burning the beetle kill lodgepole from the yard first, stuff lasts like 10 minutes. Putting up some bid pondo and fir rounds now, hopefully a little more lasting.
Check out this website if you want to learn how to get every last bit of heat out of your stove/firewood: http://www.hearth.com/talk/. Definitely a great resource that has helped me trouble shoot some issues.
If you need to replace any of the firebricks in that stove, Quadra-Fires use the lighter weight, slightly harder to find pumice bricks. Don't use the standard, heavier clay bricks in their place. The pumice ones are more insulated and you are more likely to damage the stove body by overfiring if you use the less insulating bricks.
I generally don't burn any rounds unless they are too small to stand on end and split. Big half splits would be more beneficial in most situations, as rounds take a long time to properly season, even if they are de-barked.
Almost grabbed onto this old girl while digging into my stack of rounds during a splitting session this weekend...
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Had next winters put up in May and have modified wood shed so both bays can be used for wood. Only about 1/2 cord put in for 2016/17 so far but come fall want 2nd bay full for 2016 & 17 winters.
In the last week we've split another cord of crappy alder. Still have a couple of cords of mystery pine/fir/cedar/sequoia/? rounds to go. Plus looking for some good doug fir or hardwood for the all nighters.
Got my eye on 2 big spruce trees that blew down a couple of years ago. They're near a neighbor's property, so I've been waiting to give him the first shot, but the statute of limitations on those trees is going to be over this weekend. Probably a cord each.
How you guys burn that crappy alder and spruce and whatnot is beyond me. Oak, maple, elm, hickory, ash, ftw.
Scored a "job" clearing a bunch of oak, manzanita, cedar, pine and fir 1/4 mile down the hill on my road. Mix of live, standing dead and down and dead. I'm doing the cutting in exchange for the wood. At least 2 cords of oak and another of soft wood, plus all the manzanita. I won't even have to buy wood tags and drive miles around the forest scrounging this season. I can just roll down the hill and cut at my leisure and I'll be more than a couple years ahead. I'll have wood for the house, the smoker, and the campfire. Stoked.