Thick acrylic is a lot more expensive than you'd think, but if you can find scraps on eBay or a plastic supply house you could probably get a piece like mine for $10 or $20.
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Thick acrylic is a lot more expensive than you'd think, but if you can find scraps on eBay or a plastic supply house you could probably get a piece like mine for $10 or $20.
Or you could just use a block of wood as a guide.. or go to Home Depot, the plexiglass cutting booth always has lots of scraps that they'll probably give you for free. Glue/ clamp a couple of the 1/4" ones together and you have a block. Chances are the scraps won't be the same size- glue them together using epoxy or summat then cut into whatever pretty shape you want once it's cured.Quote:
Originally Posted by 1000-oaks
Attachment 135267
Yuss
I just got done mounting SollyFits on MY OWN FUCKIN' SKIS (191 Lhasa Fats to be exact :D).
Anyone find a good source for screws with torx head like radicals are mounted with - searched online and came up with only phillips, then went to two stores that specialize in fasteners and they looked at me like I had meteor fragments. They wouldnt even attempt ordering them.
^^^ McMaster-Carr
Seconded. McMaster has everything.
Torx screws suck for ski bindings. If you're ordering replacement screws, you might as well get posi-drive (ie: phillips) screws like every other ski binding on the market.Quote:
Originally Posted by NoPostholio
I was just reading the Lou D blog about breaking torx - Haven't had any problems yet and prob swapped radicals about half dozen times this year. On the other hand I barely got the posi screws out of my onyx bindings and won't be able to get another use out of them. I have more of a problem with the posi -
Haven't been able to figure out the size or type from that extensive fastener site, bit thanks for that link.
There is not much of a difference btwn the g3 onyx vs dynafit radical screws except 1/8" longer on rear screw for onyx, but basically same screw just with different drive interface - just need to hunt down specs for the size. I think dynafiddle screws might be in four-un units like used in canuckastania
Attachment 135367
Don't know if it's been mentioned before, but if your having problems with posidrive screws stripping you can always use a #2 square drive bit to get them in/out. I used to use deckmate screws a lot for work and, though they were a posidrive screw, always used a square bit because they would strip under high torque with the posidrive bit.
^^^never knew that, and just tried it for success on last of the stripped posi
Thanks Leo
^^^ Nice.
Has anyone tried to install inserts for Duke/Baron/Tour and Radical? Seems like the larger toe pattern of the Radical (as opposed to the Vertical) has some conflicts with the D/B/T. Only way around this that I can see is to mount the D/B/T 0.5cm forward of the Radical.
Any other solutions? Perhaps a different binding that plays better with the Radical hole pattern?
Looking for some advice from the collective -
I'm about to mount up some 185 praxis pows that I scored in gear swap and, due to some crowding (this will be the third mount) was going to reuse two of the toe piece holes and two of the heel holes, but when I laid it out with my template it appears that the previous mount was off by 4mm from ski to ski. I had planned to put my boot center at 99 from tip, but to get the holes to line up I have to scoot my jig forward 2mm of the line on one ski 2mm back on the other. Basically, if I mount them up equidistant from the tip the holes on one of the skis will end up figure eighting with the old holes. I'm not too worried about the heel holes because I can just mount them in the old holes and slide the heel piece back on the track (right?), but the toe holes are the real issue.
I've read a ton a threads saying pows are really sensitive to mount position so the question is, do I just mount 'em up 4mm off from each other and not sweat it (seems to have been good enough for the previous owner) or would it be better to go with inserts? The previous holes have been filled with epoxy and were for an fks and I'm switching to sallys. Thanks for any input.
Are checking the center line as displayed on the graphic or measuring it yourself?Quote:
Originally Posted by PlayItLeo
I'd be concerned that the holes might be in the correct place and the graphic on the ski is wrong. That may or may not be giving the previous owner/mounter too much credit. I can't speak to that ski as I don't have any experience with it. Regardless, I always want my mount to be spot on, if only so I don't have to question my gear.
Measured it myself. Straight pull of tape off the tip.Quote:
Originally Posted by cowardlyginger
If you are running inserts with Dynafits, it may be a good idea to drill out the threads on the toepiece to make it easier to get the toepiece flush with the ski. First time I mounted my Verticals I thought I had them flush but one side of the toepiece was a millimeter off the topsheet and I barely noticed it.
Never skied the pows, but on a hard snow ski, you'd probably notice a 4mm difference. I say this because I had a pair that was off by 5mm, and on hard snow you could notice that one side was pivot-y-er for lack of a better term. But that was only when you were thinking about it. On a good snow day, it didn't matter.
PM auvgeek
If you mean plugging holes, I personally use epoxy. YMMV.Quote:
Originally Posted by Pudge.
I use hot glue on most skis. Jam the tip of the gun right in the hole and squirt it in. If it's got bubbles or something not nice, you can make it flow again by pressing the glue gun tip against the hard glue. Epoxy is definitely more legit though. Don't use hot glue on carbon skis though, it'll pop out. Epoxy only.
Square drive is also known as Robertson if you're looking for a driver or bits..Quote:
Originally Posted by PlayItLeo
Ya should have done that when the ski shop screwed the pooch on my skis. In fairness their dynafit jig is f'd up. Manufacturing these days ... shit. Alas, as most things it can be fixed.
Sent from my SCH-I535 using TGR Forums
I just mounted another pair of my own fucking skis.
Took all the proper precautions and got 1 spinner (it happens). The awesome part is that I knew it was a spinner and could fix it now rather than have a shop cover it up and find out the hard way when my toepiece blows off the ski at high speed! :eek:
Which brings me to my next point... I highly recommend having some of these really inexpensive little miracle workers around your workshop:
http://www.slidewright.com/nylon-tap-in-inserts.php
SUPER easy to install and fixed my spinner in no time! Drill a 5/16" hole in the existing location, tap it in with a hammer (gently), re-install binding, done.
In case you're wondering if they're actually a proper fix, look at the pull out force specs on that link (240000 lbs!?!?), and do a search for a thread somewhere around here where marshalolson talks about destroying a binding before it pulled out of these inserts.
Lots of other great products on that site as well. I have no affiliation... just like the shop.
Popped my cherry on mounting up my own muthafucking skis last night, Sally S900 on Praxis Pows. Ditched the drive+ lifter plates the bindings had and mounted them flat. Had to cut and grind all the screws as a result. Got one base dimple from one of the screws being a bit too long. Pulled it, ground it down, smacked the base back down with a hammer, reinserted screw - no big deal. Props to this thread, the search JONG function, jondrums' paper templates, Jameson, and PBR.:yourock:
^^^ Did you decide to live with the 4 mm diff?
Yeah, decided not to sweat it. For the amount of days these boards will actually be used I figured it wasn't worth stressing over. If it feels wacky once I get a few days on 'em I'll deal with it then, but for now decided to not nerd out, stfu, and ski.Quote:
Originally Posted by pisteoff
There was a template that had all the various mount patterns in layers so you could see if you had a conflict... anyone know where I can get that?
page 23, post #571 of the recently stickied (:yourock:) paper template threadQuote:
Originally Posted by nickwm21
Good plan. On a powder day, I never gave it a second thought, and since I just threw my skis down and stepped into them, I didn't even know which was which.Quote:
Originally Posted by PlayItLeo
Good call PlayitLeo. Here's the link.Quote:
Originally Posted by nickwm21
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alpinord
Two good tips from BigSteve and PlayitLeo made latest swap that much easier -
The square drive in the posi is great - use the drill with square drive to remove and run back in 75%, then fine tune by hand....so much easier
And Big Steve rec on the 5200 marine adhesive - so much less friction putting the screw back in and much easier to work with than epoxy. And being able to break free w/o a heat up will be great.
Great thread!
Just mounted my wife's fucking skis...Barons on Fischer Koa 78s for her casual touring plans next year. Stupidly easy using the paper templates and JonDrums videos. My S3s with Tour F12's are next! I'm pretty sure I'll use Jon's inserts for mine; I already have all the supplies.
those fucking Moments?
Just mounted some Tour F12s on my fucking S3s...used JonDrums inserts...too fucking easy!
I just fucking mounted yet another pair of skis. Used paper templates and some calculating to avoid Marker demo binding holes. Fuckin' easy.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-q...031_104654.jpg
Thirty-two fucking holes and solid 2 years later. No shop would do this for you without charging an arm and a leg and/or fucking it up. Practice on a 2x4.
Attachment 143693
Attachment 143694
That's what I did but I used jesters and dukes. Quite a shock to me when the two front toe holes matched both bindings. Saved me from drilling 4 holes.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ivan Oder
I should do that on gaper day for shits and giggles. DIN toe block, Tech heel block on one side, visa versa on the other. Sounds like a recipe for getting fucked up.. hahaQuote:
Originally Posted by Ivan Oder
Fucking gracias. I'm fucking putting inserts in my fucking Viciks this weekend to run both Dynafits and some red LABS.Quote:
Originally Posted by gointhedistance