Wanted to post a thanks to jondrums for putting this together. Just mounted two pairs of Solly 997s with the template that came out great.
Printable View
Wanted to post a thanks to jondrums for putting this together. Just mounted two pairs of Solly 997s with the template that came out great.
Mounted a set of small Fritschi Freerides to a 279mm bsl last night using the paper template provided here. Everything worked great. Thanks for the kick ass resource jondrums!
Might have already been asked but does the Salomon template work with the STH 16 bindings?
If not, what bindings does it work for?
900s, 957, 977, 957, 912, 914, 916, 920, STH12, STH14, STH16, Z-series, Quadrax, and any other binding made by salomon to date :D
That was the answer I was hoping for...
Quote:
Originally Posted by jondrums
Stuck a pair of dukes on my RC112's, worked a treat. Props to Jondrums. Would have been easier if the template was on one 11x17 though ha ha.
An idea I had while doing this. Remember in the old world of overhead projectors you could get the clear plastic sheets that you could print onto with an inkjet printer? Seems like this would be a good easy solution to aid in easier alignment, particularly with the template on 2 pages etc.
WOWOWOW! Great Idea! I know what I'm trying for my next mountttttQuote:
Originally Posted by CaliBrit
I use an old fashioned hole punch (remember those?) to punch a hole in each of the templates right where the BSL intersects the centerline so that I can see through and line everything up. I also cut off the excess paper on the ends, so I can match up the center line to the end of the template too.
With these techniques, I don't think that a clear overhead projector print is necessary.
Good advice, and is per your instructions. I follow these exact steps with success, but I feel like the transparency would give me more peace of mind.Quote:
Originally Posted by jondrums
Ah heck, that transparency stuff is just extra $$$, which is what I'm trying to save here! Back to the old method... :rolleyes2 coughformyinsertscough
Well I just ordered 50 8x11 sheets for $18! For laser printer, not inkjet or copier.
Worth an experiment.
If any SF Bay Area folks want a couple of sheets on me, then shoot me a PM, I live right in SF you can come grab a couple.
I forget where I seen it but there were templates to down load from A site and on the template was a circle the size of a quarter SO if you down loaded the template take a quatrer out of your pocket and if a quarter fits in the round circle on the template the template did not shrink or grow in the downlaod /print process ... good idea I thot
jondrums template has a scale on it you can just measure. Foolproof, well nearly!Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
kinko's makes the transparence copies.... it was like $1.20 for 4 sheets or 2/2page templates
Yeah it is just one more scailing/accuracy step.
Direct print sits better in my mind.
^^ I carefully checked the numbers with Lou's template, so I am 99% sure that the Fritschi template is spot on. Can you shed more light on where you think the difference is?
Also, I'm actually not sure which models the template works with. I have a pair of Fritschi bindings that this template works with, but can you help me determine which models this is compatible with?
Although the issue's solved, I checked your template with the one I did some while ago (see: [ame="http://www.freeskiers.net/community/showthread.php?t=2157"]|ANLEITUNG| - Bindung in Heimarbeit montieren - freeskiers.net - Community[/ame] -third post contains links to binding templates) and they're spot on overlapping regading the screw holes and distance between toe and heel mounting. On the midsole scale there's a few mm offset, but that's irrellevant.Quote:
Originally Posted by jondrums
BTW I linked some of the templates you did there. Let me know if that's improper.
knut- no problem linking them of course - they're posted in a public forum.
I had to create the mid-sole lines by carefully measuring using a pair of "FR" bindings. Where did you get the midsole line position? If someone has a official jig - I'd like feedback on the position of the midsole lline.
I measured the midsole position also from a FR size M based on toe piece contact point with the boot sole checked with my boot inserted. Counter-checked by measuring full sole length with heel piece in foremost and sternmost position.
Depending on form and wear of the boot sole and evaluated contact points, I think there's easily room for variation. I think, that's always the tricky part on any kind of paper jig based on measuring a binding. Toe and heel edge contact point are rarely a well definded line.
But it seems that both templates differ by less than 2mm. I feel that this variation in midsole positioning is neglectable.
I anyway use a slightly different mounting method comparable to what one'd do with a metal jig. I place the boot on the ski aligning midsole of boot and ski and then use the toe and heel edge line on the paper template to align it. Excludes errors by the rarely occuring non-centered midsole mark on some boots.
Another successful mount last night. Thanks again Jon, this is an awesome resource. You kick ass.
i had a problem mounting my fks 155.
the heel piece holes lined up perfect, but the toe piece hole where slightly to close together causing the screws to bind up before i could get the plate completely flush with the ski.
i removed the screws and opened the holes up slightly with the drill but now i need new screws because they are slightly stripped.
is it safe to just screw them back in with a good amount of epoxy in the hole? or do i need to heli-coil now?
Glueing them in with epoxy will do the job. I solved the same issues on unprecise mounts (drifted drillers in soft wood core and too big drill) successfully that way.Quote:
Originally Posted by slowroastin
But heli-coiling is the cleaner way making re-mounting the skis possible. Putting some inserts in would make a gain out of a fail.
Just cross-checked jondrums template with mine.
The foremost two (standard) screws measured 40.946mm wide and 40.926mm distance to the second row of screws. I got 42mm for both values and used my template a couple of times successfully. Which doesn't mean it's point on exact, of course
The second (heel-wards) row of screws is the same, as is the first row of the heel unit.
For the second row I got the same distance to the first, but I measured a spread of 30mm while jondrums template gives 28.962mm.
Again, I can't say which values are right. Mine just worked out -but so did jondrums...
I additionally measured mid-sole position to be 5mm more back of the toe unit and distance between toe and heel unit to be 5mm less. The second is tricky to figure out given the heel unit design of the FKS.
I at first had calculated the heel unit more distant to the front unit but after a few test mounts shifted that to end up in the middle of the rather small adjustment range of the FKS.
While trying to get up to speed here and viewing your installation videos, etc, (nice job: clear and helpful) I subscribed and left this comment relative to DynaDuke Installation Part 1 in the interest of reducing margin of error:
Granted, this may be splitting hairs, but if someone blindly marks their centerline (read: Major Benchmark) there could be a couple additive errors throwing things off a skootch. When ever I mark long lines with 3 marks, a longer straight edge verifies that the middle mark is in alignment. Or you could simply use 2 marks beyond the template with the longer straight edge.Quote:
Regarding marking centerline accuracy, you might want to use a finer line than a Sharpie provides and a longer straight edge. If for some reason the middle center mark is off and you use the shorter straight edge as shown, it's possible that you could in effect draw a super shallow 'V' and the templates could be off line, canting the two hole groups and subsequent mounts not in true alignment. A longer straight edge that is longer than the templates, will remove this possibility.
Two points make a line, three could make a 'V', depending on the pilot, coupled with a short straight edge and other factors.
^^^ If the centre line is off, that shouldn't affect the holes being too close together... it would just affect if the binding was properly centred on the ski.
Sounds to me like a wandering drill bit or not precisely starter-punched hole locations.
Correct. You would not want to have your toe pointing a little East of North and your Heel pointing a little West of North, for instance. It's a minor/splitting hairs thing but reduces a couple small variables that could add up to a minor problem or inconvenience. It's just a better practice, IME.
Jester R3 verified. Thanks Jondrums! If I am just experimenting with a mount and may want to go back to the old holes, can I fill the holes with something soft like silicon or will the ski be weak because the holes are not solid? Ski = 120 underfoot solid ash/maple
Thanks for cross-checking Knut. I made the FKS template a long time ago. I have three kinds of FKS bindings on hand here, so I'll just take a caliper to the real deal. It is very possible that I made this template from someone else's paper template which was poorly scaled or something.Quote:
Originally Posted by Knut
I'm very sorry this happened! I've personally mounted a pair of FKS with it, so I know its pretty close at least.
You guys checked print scaling right?
Wow guys, thanks for speaking up!
I measured all the FKS bindings I have here, and found that the template needed some adjustments. The toepiece front holes were off by about .5mm (not much, but wrong for sure). The heelpiece rear holes were also wrong by .25mm. I updated the template using my own hole measurements, and Knut's midsole line advise. Knut: I split the difference on length toe to heel between our two estimates.
What we really need, is someone with a jig and a perfectionist nature... Who'll step up to check the FKS template?
Sounds like a good compromise.
You can absolutely do that. Hot glue is also working nicely.Quote:
Originally Posted by DudeLebowSKI
Thanks so much for these templates, mounted 2 pairs of skis yesterday, saved me a lot of money
I get 28.7mm and 20.7mm for the width of the heelpiece holes, and 35mm and 41.8mm for the width of the toepiece holes. (Toe = 4-screw Geze pig toe)Quote:
Originally Posted by jondrums
I get 41.1mm from the top row to the bottom row of toepiece holes, and I get 32mm from the top row to the bottom row of heelpiece holes.
This is measured from a binding, not a jig. The screws in mine have a little circle on the bottom, which makes it reasonably easy to measure between them. (I left the mounting screws in the bindings and measured from the points of the screws)
Measuring the srews was somewhat imprecise for me. They easily tilt a little in the holes.
Measuring distance between outer edge of holes minus distance between inner edge is more accurate, I think.
Btw: you find my template here, if you're interested to see the numbers I got
So, I've tried printing these and the Dynafit template on Wildsnow on two different computers and two different printers and I get the exact same printout result that is not to the correct scale.Quote:
Originally Posted by jondrums
After looking at all possible print set up options, I can't seem to figure out how to adjust the scale %. Has anyone overcome this printing challenge and willing to share any tips? Thanks!
Are you asking how to calculate print percentages or how to change the printer's percentage settings?
Assuming the former, try dividing 200mm by what you measure the length of the scale bar to actually be printed. IE, if it's 196mm, you'd need to set your scale at 102%.
I was asking how one finds the "knob" to turn to adjust these PDFs, which appear off by default on my machines, before hitting the printer "go" button.
Anyway, with more playing around I found it. The knob to turn is found on one my computers via this path: Print setup>properties>page set up>page layout>scaled>*enter scaling* then print the scaled PDF until it is correct...
I screwed some PX12s to some new skis tonight. I did mount a binding onto a chunk of 2X4 just to be 100% sure, but I won't bother next time. The template is perfect and saved me some cash and from having to subject my skis to the tech at the local Rossi dealer who had never heard of Look bindings when I asked if they had a Look/Rossi jig. I'm thinkin' my skis are happy to have not fell prey to his hand...
Thanks for posting these!
Jesus! Somebody lied on their resume. :nonono2:Quote:
Originally Posted by Reformed
I recently mounted a pair of dynafits using the R1 Template. I found the heel to be ~5mm back of center on the adjustment screw - which was mentioned previously. Dynafit Titan for the record. I see now there is a R2?? I'll be mounting a second pair this week.
What is the difference between the two? Also, maybe a rev date could be added to filename, or am I missing that somewhere?
How would one go about measuring a jig?
I haven't been keeping good records of the revision history. I will say that I checked the R2 dynafit template with my titans+FT12 and it is SPOT ON (also checked with several other boots - scarpa and garmont inc.). Also, the dynadukes and sollyfits are based on the Dynafit/Duke/Salomon templates, so I know those are perfect.Quote:
Originally Posted by grenalds
re: FKS template
I did a test mount tonight with two pairs of FKS (geze toe, and normal), and ended up with yet another revision to the template. This time for BSL location.
I'm calling this one verified now, as I used a boot in which I have verified the BSL line and BSL length.