Level Nine has Vittoria Goma for $30, 27 and 29. Discontinued now. I like that tire as a rear tire.
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Level Nine has Vittoria Goma for $30, 27 and 29. Discontinued now. I like that tire as a rear tire.
Well, I intended to order the Trail version of the Mazza, but looks like I ordered the Enduro. Unfortunately, I don’t want to run this heavy of a tire on the front of my Ripley.
Anyone around SLC want this for $55? Return shipping will likely be too much.
Attachment 334830
Just buy a ripmo for them/problem solved
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Great suggestion, but I just sold my Ripmo last month. Had the Michelin Wild Enduro front on that and it was great.Quote:
Originally Posted by grinch
Sweet! Having fun with some nice ridesQuote:
Originally Posted by g_man80
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Maxxis compounds. Based on this thread it seems like running a 3C MaxxTerra in the front would have benefits over a dual compound but that wouldn't be so apparent for the back when riding a lot of dry & loose stuff and going with a dual would be better from a durability standpoint. Does that sounds about right for a place where good dirt simply doesn't happen?
I've exclusively ran dual compound tires so far (DHF front, Forekaster then Aggressor rear) and without a comparison point I have no idea how much difference going to 3C would make. Would a 3C DHF have saved me from cratering in a turn after losing the front end to moon dust?? My current one in dual compound has about 1600 miles on it so it's definitely not all there in the grip department but durability has been stellar. Same for the Agressor rear which isn't the grippiest but holds up well enough in loose corners and is still going strong after almost 1000 miles.
I'm trying to figure out what to do on the new bike which ships with a High Roller II in the front and a Rekon in the rear, both in dual compound. I think the High Roller should be fine on the front and I'll probably ride it into the ground before putting a DHF 3C on there but the Rekon has to go, it's going to be even worse than the Forekaster I ran initially. I have DHR2s in 3C sitting around but I'm tempted to try a Dissector on the back for a bit of improved rolling performance. That would have to be 3C and some recent posts make me wonder if I'll make it through the summer, the compound seems to be ungodly soft...
If it were me, I'd move the DC HR2 to the back and run something softer up front (like one of the DHR2s you have kicking around - the DHR2 makes a great front tire). The DC HR2 actually rolls decently well based on my experience and isn't that terrifying if it gets wet (maybe the more slender knobs do a decent job of conforming to rocks and roots in spite of the harder rubber).Quote:
Originally Posted by Boissal
For moondust and deep gravel, I'd say tread pattern matters more than rubber compound. The more hard surfaces you have (packed dirt, roots, rocks) the more a grippier rubber compound will make a difference.Quote:
Originally Posted by Boissal
Which isn't to say that grippier rubber wouldn't be noticeable in soft conditions. It's just not as significant as if you're riding a bunch of rooty stuff.
DC definitely lasts longer (and rolls marginally faster) than maxxterra. And maxxterra definitely lasts longer (and rolls noticeably faster) than maxxgrip.
What those guys said. MaxxTerra DHR2 front with a Dual HR2 rear sounds pretty good, especially if you've already got the DHR.
I run dual compound Maxxis in rear because they last. In front I don't need a tire which lives 3k miles, so a softer compound is fine. Front tire washouts are horrible.
Been trying different setups on my ripping GF’s Ripmo and lately her preference is 2.4 max terra DHR II up front, and 2.4 max terra Dissector rear.
Meanwhile I’m sticking with the boring 2.5WT aka 2.6 DHF / Aggressor combo that seems to be a Tahoe std with Assegais when needed
If it were me I'd move the HRII to the back and I'd run your 3c DHR2 on the front. I'm no fan of a HRII as a front tire. It has a dead/drift zone on the tire until you roll it over far enough for the side knobs to hook up. This can be fun on the rear but IMO is no good for a front tire (front washouts suck).Quote:
Originally Posted by Boissal
I had a bike spec'd from the factory with a DHR2 front and Rekon back. I hated the Rekon. It felt like a dead POS. It never hooked up in the turns and it felt like it was just along for the ride.
When winter came I pulled the Rekon off put the DHR2 on the rear and a DHF on the front. The DHF/DHR2 combo (both 3c) is money. When spring sprung I pulled both those tires off put the Rekon back on the rear and put a Vittoria Martello on the front. The reasoning for this was I mostly ride loose over hard XC trails during the summer and I wanted a faster rolling (and cheaper) set up for that.
The Martello/Rekon set up was great. The Martello needs a more aggressive angle to engage the side knobs and apparently so does the Rekon. That tire combo hooks up in corners and turns great. It blew my mind. The Rekon went from being a tire that I hated into a tire that I liked when it was paired with the correct front tire.
I haven't tried a DC High Roller II, but I like the 3C MaxxTerra HRII on the front of my 29er trail bike, with the exception of the side knobs wearing (undercutting) a lot faster than they do on a Minion DHF. I think the HRII corners well, even on the loose-over-hard (or just plain loose) local conditions around Reno/Tahoe.
Loving the Dissector 3C 2.4WT Exo+ on the rear. Park and trail. (vs the DHR2 it replaced it rolls faster but I don't think I lost any performance).
Been pretty happy with the Michelin Wild Enduro Rockereleventy on the rear. Maybe a little looser in really loose stuff than Maxxis stuff I've been running, but very predictable. Definitely tougher than EXO. I did pinch flat the one on my MT, but I did it landing hard on a sharp rock, dinging the rim pretty good. The one on the hardtail has taken a beating and survived so far, sans insert. I can't say the same for the EXO+ DHF on the front, which I've pinch flatted a few times.
Someone needs to try the michelin 2.4 dh34 in the "bike park casing". Bike park casing has them about the same weight as a maxxis double down.
I have a fresh one with a dh casing waiting to go on the new wheels. Havent tried it yet but tread looks like itll handle most any condition. Similar to a dhr2 except the center knobs have a touch more seperation than the dhr2's. Should make it better up front cornering , and better penetration in the loose and shed mud a bit better
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Hard rubber only for the DH34 Bike Park though.
Speaking of Michelin, the DH22 is absolutely incredible in soft, loamy PNW dirt. Unfortunately they're also almost 1500g in a 27.5x2.4. If they made that exact tire in a burly trail bike casing (say, under 1200g) you'd be able to see my boner from the ISS.
Ok good to know. My dh34 dh casing 29 x 2.4 is magic X rubber. Im pairing it up with an E wild rear 27.5 x 2.6 on my emtb.Quote:
Originally Posted by HAB
I was going to pair up my rockr 2 29 x 2.35 magic x front with a dh34 bike park 29 x 2.4 on the rear so that should work with that harder rubber. The dh34 bike park is the remaining tire for me to buy for the new 29er bike. I have a rockr2 27.5 x 2.35 to go on a rear wheel to occasionally mullet that 9er bike. Planning on a huck norris in the rear of the 9er wheels and the bit burkier nukeproof liner i have for the 27.5 rockr2 rear wheel
I was thinking of one of those dh22's in place of the rear ewild on my emtb but no stock. Sounds like its magic x rubber compound as well. I heard its a touch wider than the dh34 so i figured itd go well on the rear of the emtb plus it has transition knobs between the center knobs and edging knobs. Without trying it i figured id prefer the dh 34 front over the 22 but looks like world cup guys are using the 22 on the front too
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Why did Michelin go wire bead on its DH tires? What’s the advantage? Surely the wire bead accounts for their heavy weight.
Good question. Must add some weight plus theyre 4 ply. Wire bead is probably less likely to stretch, something that happens to non wire beads? I think i can pull off my current worn out tires with my fingers and theyre super tight going on new. I'm burping more and more sealant with 35+psi in them now. Almost done and finishing them off in the park.
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I believe Bontrager also has wore bead for DH casings. My understanding is wire beads are less likely to burp and the tires are designed for bikes not designed to peddle. Or rather full DH bikes that suck to peddle, so heavy burly tired make little difference when loading onto the Gondola.Quote:
Originally Posted by D(C)
Loving my Enduro Wild Front so far. gumx, so will see how it wears. The XR2 my bike came with are pretty worn after three months and maybe 1000 miles. I have a Pisgah 2.35 I’m gonna try on the rear.
Wire beads don't split and come off the rim. And when I say split I mean the equivalent of breaking the cord that runs the circumference. There's a very good reason real dh tires are wire bead.
Had never heard of that ... did some googling ... not surprised to see a Performance/Nashbar house brand tire go for $22 on sale 29 x 2.35. But I looked at the tread pattern, dual compound durometer, full butyl liner, spec weight seems about right for a solid tire, read some reviews and I *was surprised* to see basically a Forte knockoff of a Maxxis HR2 for such a miniscule amount of money (on Nashbar, it costs more from Performance).Quote:
Originally Posted by Ottime
At that price I’ll pick up a couple for each of my bikes and try it out. Could be a good one to throw on for early to mid season prime conditions here when you don’t need the best confidence inspiring rubber, because our trail surfaces have so much traction anyway in June and July.
Havent tried it yet but mounted up my mich dh34 dh casing 29 x 2.4. I was hoping itd be a schwalbe width 2.4 unfortunetly its a maxxis width 2.4. Michelins widths are all over the map. My rockr2 2.35 is wider. The wire bead is almost easier going on than the ewild. Its a little looser on the rim before i air it up. Thats nice as the ewild is super tight even in the center channel of the rim. Very supportive sidewall on the dh34 in the driveway test. I like more support up front for edging and compliance in the rear for tracking without deflecting. Mich need to make a 2.6 dh34 and a 2.55 rockr2. They way they develop tires thatll be 4 years if at all.
Next tires are going to be vee rubber flow snap 2.6's i think. Somebody try those and report back so i can spend some more $$$$
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Thanks for all the replies regarding compounds. I think I might move both the HRII and the Rekon on the bike I'm selling rather than leave the shot-to-shit tires on there. I've taken the entire bike apart, cleaned everything thoroughly, re-greased/re-torqued the whole thing, bled the brakes, put in new pads, replaced the grips, the works... but thought I'd sell with the shitty tires as it seems that it would be the first things someone would replace. Now I'm wondering if given the marked for used bikes it wouldn't make more sense to sell something that's ready to ride for somebody who isn't super opinionated about tires but will appreciate having everything look new.
That way the Rekon becomes someone else's problem and I can run DHF/DHRII on the new bike without having to buy anything else or I can get a Dissector DC for the back for $60.
Never thought of running a DHRII in the front as opposed to a DHF but several of you seem to like it. Personal preference? Works better than DHF?