The one screw/toe first method with the old Dynafit 5-screw toe was foolproof (assuming you scribe a good center line), although it's not that much more difficult with the far better 4-screw toe and a template
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The one screw/toe first method with the old Dynafit 5-screw toe was foolproof (assuming you scribe a good center line), although it's not that much more difficult with the far better 4-screw toe and a template
Mounted my own fucking skis with BF inserts a couple weeks back. 4FRNT Uptrack Massif 182 with Tectons:
Attachment 219176
Went smoothly except the mount point mark was doubly wrong as far as I can tell. It's supposed to be 845mm from the tail, but I measured 841mm on one and 839mm on the other. I ended up going off the 841mm one as I'd already taped the template on.
First time on the set up in completely the wrong conditions (hardpack in the resort) - they're great!
Can anyone confirm sth2 toe hole spacing. Working with a few year old template from powderguide It puts 30 mm between fore and aft toe holes. Caliper and eyes on binder says it’s really 31mm
Have a question about mounting fucking skis. If one was to have to replace a kingpin heel track, or any other baseplate of a binding for that matter, can you just unscrew the plate from the ski and rescrew on a new one?
I guess what I'm asking is can holes be re-used on skis? Or are bindings one-time mount per hole set? Is there epoxy/glue involved that would need to be re-applied?
I clearly have never done any binding work before, but recent discovery of some issues with my bindings may have me replacing a heel baseplate in the future and I'm just trying to gain knowledge.
Also plan to mount my own fucking skis at some point in the future, as I'm sick of "professionals" fucking up my shit.
Read up in this thread. But yes, should be fine as long as you don’t cross thread.
As noted by @jackattack - you should be fine. Don't cross-thread.Quote:
Originally Posted by ADKmike
I'd add: If it's got metal, you will have far fewer issues with multiple remounts in the same holes. Wood core and no metal? Probably fine. Keep the number of remounts as low as possible.
If it were me, I'd be putting some slow-set epoxy in the holes. [I use a syringe with a plastic 16ga luer lock tip to get it clear down in the hole. Amazon is your friend. I get a box of 100 syringes+tips - I'll probably never use it all in my lifetime, but they're incredibly handy for all sorts of things.]
If you were going to be super-anal about it, epoxy+filler or epoxy+filler+strands of fiberglass - let it dry. Drill the hole [in exactly the same spot - you don't want to remove any more core material.] and tap/remount with some new wet epoxy. But this mostly applies in a case where a screw is spinning, or other damage to the core and you're trying to fix that problem - not just a remount.
regarding syringes and epoxy, if you or your friends have kids who have ever gotten liquid oral antibiotics and such, just save a couple of the droppers the pharmacy gives you. They work great for that, but then again, so does a toothpick and a scrap of paper.
Moment Meridian's with STH 2 WTR 13's, just get us some snow. Attachment 219251
To follow on the STH2 WTR 13 theme...
I mounted my own fucking skis
196 Down Countdown 114
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...36b723af44.jpg
^^ nice! Do post a review once you get some time on those
Mounted my own fucking Sego Sloppy Joes.
https://preview.ibb.co/c5CyLR/IMG_8103.jpg
Fucking beastly.Quote:
Originally Posted by acinpdx
Those bindings :yourock:Quote:
Originally Posted by acinpdx
Also mounted my own fucking sloppy Joes. And fucking prospects.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...c8e8d1280b.jpg
First day on them was very positive — still figuring them out. May make couple tuning adjustments and wait on a deeper snowpack to say more.Quote:
Originally Posted by SeatownSlackey
Did you mount on the line? I did without really thinking about it for my CD114L and when I put them on the rack next to my Lotus 120s (same length) I realized the bindings are about 4" further forward on the Down.Quote:
Originally Posted by acinpdx
Either DPS is really pushing the backseat love or Down has gone overboard with their line. Guess time will tell but I'm a bit worried now, the Lotus 120 is my favorite ski of all time and I know Down has had some weirdness in the past with their line (I remember mounting my LowDowns at -11 from some arbitrary line).
X2 on the toothpicks. A stab, a swirl, done.Quote:
Originally Posted by mattig
X3. Toothpick and just nicely coat one half side of the hole. Too much epoxy in the hole, especially with inserts, requires very slow insertion to prevent hydrolic lock-up, and of course all that extra forced up epoxy has to be wiped off, or considered when removing the binding plate for a re-mount.
On the line...I had no reason to start elsewhereQuote:
Originally Posted by Boissal
It felt balanced to me in my one day on them
I’ll get a profile shot up to show the contact points later
I've always thought DPS's recommended mount is too far back, personally
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...15581c3ca4.jpg
Merry Christmas to me =)
Any downside to installing inserts in old holes rather than plugging them?
Replacing heavy ass Dukes with lighter binders. I like the (unlikely) option of switching back.
You have to drill out the holes, so you have less space for future mounts.Quote:
Originally Posted by Magic Carpet
Getting ready to mount my skis, V-werks Katanas with Salomon MTN tech bindings. The bindings fall outside of the recommended mount pattern by a bit, so as was suggested elsewhere here on TGR, I'm going to use some epoxy in the holes and let them cure for a day or two before skiing. So my questions; 1. I thought I remembered reading that the epoxy should cure with the skis upside down, necessary? 2. What kind of epoxy to use? Specific brands/names would be helpful. Thanks in advance.