Gregorys and Alpinord, thanks.
I’m not sure thickness of ski in mount zone. Don’t have the skis with me but I’ll check when I get to them.
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Gregorys and Alpinord, thanks.
I’m not sure thickness of ski in mount zone. Don’t have the skis with me but I’ll check when I get to them.
I backed away when a friend asked me to mount his FXs. I could have set the depth with the drill press but I didn't want to dimple the bases like I did with my LXs (those are not thin, I just sent the inserts too deep).
All these kids mounting skis are awesome! Solid parenting going on there.
I wanted to throw a big "thank you" into this thread—so much good information that helped me figure out this process. I mounted my first pair last night
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FKS on a pair of Deathwishes
I was actually thinking about grinding off the top of the insert, not the closed bottom. This would grind off the little flathead screwdriver slots that can be used for installing the inserts, but I can live with that. Is there another reason to grind off the bottom instead of the top? Does it cause a problem with thread engagement for the binding screws or something?Quote:
Originally Posted by Alpinord
Also, I measured the thickness of the ski in the mount zone and it's about 12mm, thinning as you move toward the tails. So in theory there's enough thickness to put in the 9.5mm deep BF inserts which is probably why gregorys pulled it off. Only issue I can think of is it doesn't leave a hell of a lot of base depth under the insert to take on a core shot. Doesn't seem like there would be any issues with structural integrity because the insert should be stronger than the ski material it is replacing. Is there anything else I should be concerned about if I just try to put the whole insert in without any grinding?
12mm less 1.5mm (+/-) for base material leaves ~10mm to work with. Sounds like there's no need to modified the inserts. If they install a little proud of the top sheet, you can file or grind them flush. Maybe try one or two before drilling a bunch of 1/4" holes.
Outstanding choice of skisQuote:
Originally Posted by wakefield
Did some successful Kingpin Jigarex plate lending with CaliBrit over the spring/summer and was hoping someone would be willing to do the same with me.
Anyone have a pair of the Jigarex FKS/Pivot plates they want to lend me? Will pay shipping+$$$ extra for some beer.
I have some Beast 16 jigarex plates. Free + shipping if anyone wants them. Forgot I had them and have no need for them.
If only the snow would fall in the PNW....https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...2b6846443.heic
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^ Those Bibbys are tasty. Me like.
Yah they’re pretty sweet... we just need a dump or else they may have to stay in the stable...Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobcat Sig
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How do you like the ON3Ps?
Mounted these skis for my mum for a Christmas present.
Thanks for all the advice. ESPECIALLY about doing up the heel piece... Screw in the front screw 95% then fully do the rear two then finish the front again. I didn't understand this till I actually started mounting the heel and could see how easily it would be for those front two screws to pull out.
I did not tap the holes (like I was asking about previously) but used an old screw I had lying around... Worked a treat and it seemed like I didn't even need to do that, just a little bit of pressure and the screws wound in really nice. Hard to imagine how it could delam, but I ain't no pro so I'll believe you guys. Also found 3 beers was the optimal amount ;)
The shop let me use their Jig which was pretty cool and I moved the heel piece in 5mm after drilling the toe holes, however as you can see I don't believe that was necessary. Set at the middle mark there was a little too much forward pressure so I don't know if perhaps newer shop jigs account for the 5mm already?? Anyway, it's close enough to middle mark and I couldn't imagine my mum ever going UP a boot size, if anything she would go down so that's alright in my mind.
Hardest part of this whole job? Wrapping the bloody things... Damn.
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Proud moment last night. I got a nice buzz going while I watched my lady mount her own skis for the first time. With a little coaching she did it all herself. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...bc4c98b531.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...2013ef3994.jpg
Haven't skied them yet...just got them this year....Quote:
Originally Posted by Noodler
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Bumping again.Quote:
Originally Posted by nyskirat
Where are you?
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this made me giggleQuote:
Originally Posted by Aus George
somehow, this deserves to be a TGR meme
Boston.Quote:
Originally Posted by detrusor
Long way from utah. Sorry
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Put some holes in some new skis. Atomic Vantage 90 and Atomic Punx.
Dropped some new FKS dual pivots onto the Vantages. And some STH2 16s on the Punx.
This whole boot norm is making it tough to mix and match when I have a WTR boot.
Mounted my first pair today thanks to this thread. The skis I picked up off Adrenalated - Praxis Protest 187. Tyrolia Attack 13 demo bindings so I can play with mount points.
What I learned - digital calipers are really helpful. Print off a centering guide and tape it to a scraper. Finding the CL was easy using it with the calipers. Quick grip clamps are spot on for template holdings and holding a big gator drill guide. Step bit keeps it simple. Tapping with a 12ab was easy, especially using the guide. I used Roo glue. Maybe a touch easier than epoxy. The template was the supplied plastic and no problems with any of the 16 holes. Modern Times IPA was the beverage of choice.
Appreciate everyone sharing.
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3yo helping me get ready to put inserts into my BMTs yesterday.
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I see a lot of people using drill guides, but not sure how everyone else is managing depth if you're doing inserts. I made my own stops using plastic shoulder washers epoxied together. Had to file pieces down to size to dial it in, but as long as I use the same drill and drill bit my depths are consistent. Did 8 mounts with this setup. Took a picture of the shoulder washers I ordered from Amazon. Bought my drill bits, tap, and M5 flathead screws from McMaster-Carr. BF Inserts.
Edited: Agree with recommendations to freehand the tap so deleted that info from the post to avoid confusion. The stop on the tap has a higher chance of ruining the threads if bottomed out, freehand there will be more feedback of the tap bottoming out in the hole.
yeah I just use a wine bottle cork but you could use a scrap of wood