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Nice day up here as well. Super warm and the winds did not come up at the point I surfed until noon. And with the kelp and northerly direction it was still decent when I called it quits. Hoping for a little slack foggy morning to get up further. That nw sure filled in nicely. Overhead and with a little bit of punch. Been a very nice May/June as far as weather and surf are concerned. Looks nice through the weekend and with luck some more solid surf in early July.
Jeezum crow today was CA dreamin at it’s finest :biggrin:
Outstanding PM session at SP again... glassy, HH, lots of corners & some super nice barrels (ridden by better surfers than me of course).
Got hog tied by my leash for the first time today, really interesting trying to swim without the use of your legs.
Surfed from 4:00- 8:30pm. First 2 hours were meh, got a set wave or two and a couple good turns. Frustrated about the dying swell decided to paddle down the beach to no mans land. Nothing epic but lost count of how many waves came to me. Perfect balance of power yet playful enough to pull some fun snaps in the pocket, best frontside turns in weeks
Took some beatings yesterday and got hammered by my board, but it has been fucking firing since Thursday morning and is still pumping so I can’t stop now. Overhead, glassy, lined-up and really hollow...got a super clean running barrel yesterday, maybe 4-5sec of tube time (not bad for this kook). Couple more days of surf and then I hit the JMT for some Sierra goodness....(can’t wait)
What the fuck is with blackballing the the beach? A 16 year old started to yell at us over his loud speaker and one of the older locals caught a wave in and had some words with the kid. We eventually complied with the blackball but definitely not when the child told us to :biggrin:
Xover - where u @? Check your PM’s.....
5 second shack? Not sure I'm worthy
Came on here to brag about this morning's shack at O'side harbor but now I'm feeling inadequate. Sore as hell this morning, shoulders and legs could barely move. Fun one comes to me, stumble on the drop and find myself out in the flats. Hooked a hard frontside bottom turn under the lip to a clean wide open pit, no doggie doors or chandeliers to deal with. That wave woke me up and the rest of the waves were $$ after that, few frontside lip bashes to top off the day.
Hey, I thought you were going under the knife after that last solid swell. And perhaps the wind instruments are wrong, but there has been no wind by the big sur clifffs for days. If only I had all day, multiple days, to just hang nearby and get the beach and the cove as they work. Instead I played with some head high left bowls closer to home. Big high pressure is suppressing the winds a bit, and town looks clean all day long. No shacks today, but I did get a fun little cover up yesterday. It full on chandeliered, but it all worked out well enough for a good size gouge to be laid in its hip. Hoping things continue to hold decently for tomorrow morning. Felt like we were getting a bit of the tropical swell as well.
HA, too funny. You should probably take everything I say with a grain of salt as well :wink:.Quote:
Originally Posted by Piggity
In my mind I am like Kelly stalling and setting up for the barrel but in reality it probably looks very different.
Anyhow, took the LB down to trail 6 tonight and got some super clean, lined up lefts & rights. I usually frown on any activities Saturday (especially when it’s literally 115 degrees inland) but shit, so many dolphins and ladies in bikinis in the water that today turned out to be CA dreamin by surprise :).
General rule of thumb with tube riding. If it felt like it was five seconds you probably got tubed. If it felt briefer you probably just got covered up. If it felt like ten seconds you probably got a good three second barrel. But it ain't a tube unless the curtain comes down all around you and hides you from shore (when looking directly out to sea). You know you are in easily enough on your back hand, but on your frontside you need to rely on your peripheral vision and wave sense.
After that lesson I'm off to see if I can find a barrel. Tide seems a little low for banzai, but another slab of rock nearby might be just what I am looking for.
That's an ongoing debate, we're moving soon and I'll need to be able to move furniture and boxes. Then if I go under the knife afterwards it puts me out all of next winter for both skiing and surfing. Not sure whether to go gimpy for another 8 months or just suck it up and be the sacrificial pig for you guysQuote:
Hey, I thought you were going under the knife after that last solid swell.
Same rule applies for us all, at least it does for me :fmicon:Quote:
HA, too funny. You should probably take everything I say with a grain of salt as well .
In my mind I am like Kelly stalling and setting up for the barrel but in reality it probably looks very different.
surprisingly, plenty-O-waves left over this morning. Last wave got a small turn to an inside cover up. Came out and got greedy looking for one more turn so went for the foam climb, got pitched backwards headfirst into the sandbar, still a little dizzy. Overall fun past few days
Got in a ton of surfing these last weeks. This last week was pretty awesome with big NW swells hitting the dutch coast. The waves were cool but somehow I couldn't surf them properly (from flat to ultra steep in too short a time). Got some sweet beginner waves today (07.00 - 13.00). Sunny, not too much wind. Seals (again).
My shoulders are getting stronger and I can paddle for longer now.
junk is what i've been surfing this weekend. waist to head high garbage. not clean, at all. fun to go out and bounce around in it tho and pick off anything resembling face.
was really looking forward to grabbing another load of (free:D) firewood on the way home and cutting the grass, but my lady had other plans. got a text from her that said, "want to go for a surf with me when you get out of work?" i told her that wood and lawn could wait.......and she thanked me:)
yay, more junk!!!
rog
Well Pigs just let us know, so we know when the swell/pow is going to show up.
5 sessions in two days. 20 minutes at the Hook while hanging with the family. Then an hour plus at No Smiles during the afternoon. Fun, glassy, soft head high point waves with about thirty bikini clad hotties on the beach. Went back at dawn for another hour plus and then returned mid morning with the family where I got another 20 minute session. Went back mid afternoon, decided the crow looked too thick, jogged a mile and found only two sitting off the bowl at another point. Where by the way the swell angle was perfect with slightly overhead long walls that consistently want all the way to the inside rock. South is pumping up ere right now. Will be back just after dawn.
Blackball in Newport is absolutely absurd. I think every beach handles is better. With all the jetties it would be easy to just go one jetty for surfing then one for swimming, but for some reason they will sometimes blackball the whole beach up until the river. I hope someone sues them if a surfer gets hurt due to overcrowding at the rivermouth.Quote:
Originally Posted by PowerWhore7
Great surf the last few weekends. Shoulder high Newport with the odd Trestles session weekends of 6/15 and 6/22. Fun sessions from Friday evening through Sunday for this weekender. I am really loving that quad.
Friday evening 6/28 was insane. Glassy overhead uppers/cottons area stuff, mostly under the sign at the south end of cottons. Maybe my best session of the summer. For some reason I was in sync with the crowd, finding little pockets and getting wave after wave. 70 degree water, great waves, it was one of those days where I really love being a surfer in Orange County. I'm glad everyone else has been getting some the last few weeks.
Other than the fact that our water is maybe 55F ( which feels too warm, btw, only owning a 4.3) it has been going off. Light winds today. In fact, no real wind. Entire coastline is glassy other than a few spots with a slight wind mini chop. Took two longer sessions this morning. Went to two different lefts. Wiped out. And it looks like it should continue tomorrow. And some decent wind swell after that. Fuck. I need to do some shot around the house sooner or later.
double junk sessions sunday. the evening sesh was cool cuz i was with my better half. monday? more shit. today? almost didn't bother, but with so much time and so little to do before working at noon i figured what the fuck. pulled up, grabbed the 5'10 and groveled in semi glassy semi warbled thigh+. not 5 minutes later the slack went north/northeast and completely fucked the shit so bad instantly i could hardly tell what was a swell and what was wind chop. so bad. so i got out got in the car, and drove to the north end of the beach where i found perfectly clean lil thigh+ a-frames rolling in. gotta love nubble for wind protection. had a blast on the mini driver. the rights were lining up perfectly for some super fun micro short board rail to rail surfing.
fuck yeah:D
tomorrow? highly doubt it.........
ordered some beer today:)
rog
No surf in town, so I went for a paddle last night. 71 degrees, the warmest the water has been since I move to the Santa Barbara area (4-5 years ago).
Waves will come...in 4 months.
Another fun 3 hours if surf. On the small side but the better ones were shoulder high. Surfed at the beach for an hour and a half. Almost enough waves for the four of us spread out. I found a few gems, so some dude decided to try and sit just inside me, a foot deeper. Pretty much started to follow me around in a weirdo stalker way. Then I saw 7 bodies up on the road suiting up. Caught one in and split. Had a beer, drove about two miles south and took the trail down to the shore. Scored one of my favorite semi secret outside reefs just barely breaking. The wave was pretty short before backing off in deep water, but the chest to head high bowls were breaking perfect to either pull in and get chandeliered out, or even better get off one vertical snap and the a pump to cutback. Surfing solo is so much better than surfing with 12. Not sure why all those folks could not find another wave. With the sheet glass we have right now, you just need to be a little creative in your search and you can get waves to yourself. Fuck lemmings.
Small this morning but a couple fun ones every so often. Brought the 8'0", beach was mobbed by 8:30 with everyone carved their spot out for the 4th. Surfed alone and caught a couple thigh high wedges for an hour. Smoked ribs and beer this afternoon, Happy 4th everyone!
Found some solace on a sunny beach on the 4th. Fun, quirky, head plus bowls. Pretty much a cover up or a snap and that was it. Funny to me how many cars were parked at beaches just north of town in thick fog and only a few folks up where I was in the sun. Anyway. Took a day off yesterday and found some nice waves at the nw bowl near the county line. Had to wait, but the better ones were nice bowly head high lefts going for nice 50 yards or so. Fun stuff.
Spent the last few days waking up at 6am to head up the coast for some morning sessions.... Well that's what I told the girlfriend it was going to be. Been surfing for ~15yrs and decided I'd give paddleboarding a try for the hell of it. Past 3 days I've had some of the better sessions in recent memory. Came home each day with the dumbest grin on my face.
Some ok surf this weekend in Newport. A bit on the small side, but chest high for the bigger sets on Saturday morning. Sunday did the evening session, which was a bit bigger, but cut up by a sideshore wind. 54th was dealing with the wind best, and was actually not very crowded. There were a few shoulder-head high sets that came through, but they were pretty walled. The smaller sets were actually a bit better.
Looks like something on tap for later this week.
Been utility around here for the most part. Surfed a few spots I tend to only head to once the swell is on the small side. Still, got a few good ones each day. Just when I thought this morning's session was a waste, a solid head high bowl set up for three solid top turns across the reef. Then I ducked into a chest high barrel with just enough left on the shoulder for a little floater. Not so bad after all. Anyway, finally got up to posting a few pics from the big swell a few weeks back. It has all been cleared by my censorship group for publication. A few samples below, with more at the blog.
What I like about those rare sometimes breaks, is when they do do this, few are even looking.
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_6fT2tnTWW...00/sale103.JPG
The inside section, while quite a bit smaller than the peak, does bowl up nicely.
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1kzSJHVVcQ...00/sale107.JPG
Some slip through the cracks.
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8Nftt7wA6B...607_999_53.JPG
Not Hawaii. (and different swell)
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dEwmxZR4Av...0626_999_2.JPG
arrived back in SD last night. Can't wait to get back in the water after work, even if it's looking pretty small around here. Some SSE on tap for late this week..will have to see if that hits Oceanside at all as I probably can't make it any further north before the weekend.
^^ nice, hope you brought back some Heady Topper ^^
Got back from the Sierra to find some chest high love at State Park this morning. A week in the mountains put a hurtin on my timing and paddling, got flopped around for the first half of the session today. Looks like there is a decent run of swell on hand & should last through the weekend, jtran let me know if you are in The OC....
Saw this thing throwing deep in Yosemite....:biggrin:
http://imageshack.us/a/img692/4839/ntcr.jpg
Sounds like OC is doing its thing today, logged into FB to hear one buddy comparing Newport to Ulu's and another comparing HB to Mundaka....both are probably stretches but still sounds like its hitting solid up there. Maybe Oside tonight for me