Anybody mount Vist plates? I presume the center grey piece
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...07a41c3fad.jpg
Goes on boot center.....
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Anybody mount Vist plates? I presume the center grey piece
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...07a41c3fad.jpg
Goes on boot center.....
Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
Last night's project. Xmas came early, too bad UT isn't exactly buried right now...
Attachment 218337
Hey forum jongs... I got a new pair of skis for my mum for Xmas (I know I'm the best, right?) Volkl Kenja's. Anyway as it's summer here all the good techs are gone so the shop said I can use their jig and do it myself, however they dont have any tools. I am yet to get my own (next years project) but was able to borrow the right drill bit 4.1 x 9.5 and I already have a contersinking bit, but cant find a tap anywhere. Question is, if I really pressure the screws down on the first few turns will I REALLY need to tap them? I know I SHOULD but the metal in the Kenjas seems like fuck all anyway and I'm set on having them all done for Christmas. Mounting them with pivots too as she lost her right ACL this last season and it was my recommendation even though people say you cant make that claim, I say fuck em!
4.1x9.5 already has countersink. Not tapping has the potential for delam as the metal will want to climb the threads.
My 4.1mm x 9.5mm bit has a shoulder, not a countersink. Also, trimming around the ID of the drill hole is chamfering, which is different than countersinking.Quote:
Originally Posted by tuco
Yup -- volcanoes happen when you don't tap metal top sheets.Quote:
Originally Posted by tuco
Yep, some bits have a flat collar, some have a slight chamfer.Quote:
Originally Posted by OldSteve
Yeah, I've used those too. And yeah, chamfer not countersink.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs
Le sigh...Attachment 218426
Now that that's put to rest can we get back to the real question. I definitely SHOULDN'T, no chance in hell mount with no tap?
I suppose there are some good reasons for tapping. However I've never tapped for binding screws, titanal layers or not, and have yet to get delammed layers or other problems compromising the install. But I do keep good pressure on the screwdriver (manual, I don't use machine for my limited number of hobby installs) as the screws go in, especially the first two or so turns until the threads are thoroughly engaged.
Yes, it is a shoulder or step. This shoulder or step does create a countersink. This countersinks purpose is to mitigate volcanoes on ANY topsheet.Quote:
Originally Posted by OldSteve
I've never used or seen a binding mounting specific drill bit without this feature
Bought our Granddaughter a new pair of Moment 136 Carson's for Christmas, she outgrew her 115 Carsons. She is eight so I thought it was time for her to drill the holes, put the glue in the holes and put the screws in, she's earning her turns. Her dad and I supervised, made sure the Jiga-Rex was centered and helped her along the way, she thought it was pretty cool. Attachment 218435Attachment 218436
That's how to raise 'em. Win!
Tapping is "better" but it's certainly possible to do without tapping. Did me own Bodacious' last year without a tap. Line Influence too. [Both with metal, and lots of it.] In both cases, I carefully threaded the holes with one of the screws *before* dropping the bindings on and cranking them down.Quote:
Originally Posted by Aus George
It's a little hard on the screw, and almost certainly dulls the threads substantially. But, IMO, if you're careful, a tap isn't required. [I have one now, and it's certainly easier with one.]
-Greg
Awesome, I can do it with a spare screw before hand! Thanks magQuote:
Originally Posted by gregorys
For fucks sake just buy a tap for $20 instead of fucking up $500 dollar Skis (or more)
http://www.tognar.com/12ab-ski-tap-metal-top-sheet/
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Attachment 218475
Mounted these with 4.1 bit and #12 tap and countersink drill bit. everything went smooth thanks to this thread and all the mags.
Andrew
odouls? or cbd gummiesQuote:
Originally Posted by bigdude2468
strong work
had a few mags drop by the man cave and the fuggies got his dynasoliplates on his goats
and the cat o fu mounted up some low tide sticks
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y19...psyjqv5jw9.jpg
dug out some lhasa's and swapped out dyna toes
one spinner and a helicoil led to 2
at that point fuck it all five of you toe hole bitches are gettin coiled
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y19...pswyclidak.jpg
Bandit Jr wanted to mount up his new Pettitor 120’s tonight so I let him, with a little oversight...
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...afb76446cd.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...e18ce24f7d.jpg
I think Q is old enough, let him start mounting on some old skis or 2x4's now before he drills new ones. The new grandson at our place is still a little wet behind the ears, but he's a keen observer . . .Quote:
Originally Posted by flowing alpy
Attachment 218577
SFB, she enjoyed a Root Beer and Twizzlers...
I found a deal on a pair of FX104 and grabbed them with the intention of putting in some Binding Freedom inserts. I think they are the 2015 model if it matters. They have a sticker on there about not meeting ISO and needing to use a shorter drill bit and and binding screws (I think it says to use only a 4.1mm x 7.5mm bit and screws that insert 6mm, but I'll have to verify later). The BF inserts are 9.5mm deep so they don't work out of the box. I asked BF if the inserts could still be used with these skis if I ground them down a couple of millimeters to fit in the shallower drill hole. They didn't recommend because they had never tested it, but thought it could be possible. BF says the ideal is about 5mm of thread grab for the inserts.
A few questions:
1. Has anyone tried this?
2. Why does Kastle recommend a 7.5mm hole but only recommends inserting the screws 6mm? Are you supposed to leave a 1.5mm of hollow space beneath the screw? Seems like I'd want to put the insert all the way to the bottom of the hole.
3. If the insert goes in 6mm, it should allow for 1mm of excess metal at the bottom of the insert and still have the 5mm of thread grab. If the insert goes all the way to the bottom of the 7.5mm hole, it would allow 2.5mm of excess metal at the bottom of the insert. Am I missing something here or is that the right calculation?
Thanks.
Different materials and fasteners = different requirements.Quote:
Originally Posted by Gray Lab
Alpine screws:
"The minimum depth for a screw for a binding mount is 6mm/1/4"."
BF Inserts:
"Fasteners should protrude 4mm MIN and 6mm MAX into a threaded insert."
If you grind off the tip of an insert to say 7mm, epoxy should seal the end.
Maybe you should perform an alpine mount first, test drive, then install inserts if the need still exists.
What's the actual ski thickness in the mounting zone?
So, yeah - I've actually put BF inserts in a FX104. I think it was a 13-14 one - I believe it had early rise - probably a year or two before they quit making the FX104. But I doubt that there is any significant difference between any of the FX104's in terms of depth and mount details.Quote:
Originally Posted by Gray Lab
Nothing unusual about the ones I mounted - just did everything using the BF shouldered bit and inserted the BF inserts to flush with the top-sheet. [Which also seemed to put them very close to the bottom of the hole. I only kept the skis one year, and I found them, used, and _super_ cheap at <$150 including bindings and shipping - so I wasn't too worried about screwing them up. [Ignorance is bliss, eh!?] I really liked them a lot - and while I like what I've got now better, I'm almost sad to have let them go.
If it were me, I'd drill one hole, tap and dry fit an insert - my guess is it will be completely unremarkable and it will be bog standard.
I installed inserts in 1st gen FX94s without issues that I recall.
^^^ BTW, in case there is a question. No, I didn't dimple the bases. Also, I ski with the new owner, and they're still just fine after two+ seasons. Perhaps the newer ones are different, but that seems really unlikely to me.