We had the same warranty on an AX but there was no punch. Just whitening around the post.Quote:
Originally Posted by robnow
It would be so easy for them to make the shell thicker around that Tnut. It doesn't need such a deep recession to sit in.
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We had the same warranty on an AX but there was no punch. Just whitening around the post.Quote:
Originally Posted by robnow
It would be so easy for them to make the shell thicker around that Tnut. It doesn't need such a deep recession to sit in.
Is Dalbello on crack?
Why is the Lupo HDax softer than the AX120? The former has the C tongue, the latter has a P tongue.
Especially weird given the HD moniker made it stiffer in the 98mm last lupo.
I can’t find the post for the fellow who used the krytpon forward lean shim on his lupos. He screwed it into the ledge. I’m about to do the same thing but I want to see if it lasted for him, or how much it ducked to get the boot into and out of walk mode.
Margotron is who you are looking forQuote:
Originally Posted by GoldenBC
For anyone with fatter feet considering the Lupo AX HD vice the Pro HD, it's a good boot. Yah, it's marketed with a C tongue, and with said tongue, it's soft AF in the fore, but the clog (PU) and cuff are stiff making it plenty stiff aft and laterally. Swapped for a P or B tongue they are a 130ish flex for sure. For ref, I am 6'2/210, ski bigger lines at a bigger mtn, and push around a Moment CMD 108 and 118 in this boot without issue. Coming from a Lange XT Free Pro and a Doberman Pro before that. Have about 50 days in em now in the stock liner so they're def broken in. Feet are 103/105 mm/high arch and instep, and this is the first boot that gives me the performance I need and didn't need a punch (good for me, maybe not you). Yah, they're upright, more upright than my previous two boots, but after a few days I got used to it (too lazy to DIY). P tongue is sweet spot for me but have the B's on standby should I need em. Use em as a dedicated inbounds boot with some slackcountry. Much prefer these to the XT Free (Grilamid!); too long since I've skied the Doberman's to know but I liked those too. Perhaps too soft for those who ski plugs (I wouldn't know), but anyone looking for a wider performance resort boot that can walk, these fit the bill for sure. Wish I had time in the Pro to provide a direct compare, buuuut, I don't. YMMV.
I was surprised to not see anyone else having issues with the quick lace buckle being a pressure point. Tucking the quick lace buckle behind the tongue causes immense shin pain for me. I had to remove the lacing from the liner to avoid this. Just me?
I put my liner on, tighten it up, then put liner in boot. When buckling up I tuck laces in, but make sure the lace buckle is facing up, which puts it just above the tongue. No issues this way. Hope that helps.Quote:
Originally Posted by coffeebrewer
Distinct possibility i am retarded, but when i cinch the laces tight, the buckle is unavoidably behind the tongue.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sylvan
Update: Intuition Tour wrap + pro HD is a good combo, on the high volume side. No shin issues. If I was only skiing these inbounds I'd be interested in trying the pro wrap instead. I had to add a thicker footbed (super feet green) to fill some of the space, but now I can get a good snug-to-tight fit. Hopefully the liners hold up for a while.Quote:
Originally Posted by waveshello
I had some arch pain during the first couple days of use, that's gone now and they are good for a full day of skiing with no pain. I've done maybe 10 miles of uphill in them, no issues there either. These walk so nicely despite the weight... There's not a lot of resistance in the ROM.
I'm happy with this boot... Thankful for advice that steered me in this direction.
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I see others have reported that the boot boards are moving while they hike.
I have experienced the same problem, with the compound problem that the boot boards are disintegrating around where the lugs in the shell engage.
Attachment 403876
The boards appear to be made out of some sort of weird material that reminds me more of sturdier styrofoam than plastic, which is probably great for insulating against the cold ground, but is also probably the cause of the easy wear.
Anyone else having this issue?
They all look like that. Never had an issue.Quote:
Originally Posted by GoldenBC
Good to know. I ordered up another liner from Dalbello as I’m going back to the Lupo for 2023. I’ve had hit & miss with wraps & FullTilt variants.Quote:
Originally Posted by waveshello
I snapped the instep cable on my lupos today... Anyone know where I can find a replacement? [emoji51]
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I suggest you get some full tilt ones. Switched to those years ago and no snapped cables since
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Thanks for the tip. Looks like everything is out of stock just about everywhere... So the search continues. Do you know which FT boot is the most similar to the lupo for cable sizing purposes?Quote:
Originally Posted by skisurfmirth
NVM... I'll just take the broken one off and measure.
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Where are you located?Quote:
Originally Posted by waveshello
Central WA state. I found a 180mm pair and a 190mm pair, I ordered both in hopes that one of them will work--I was in a hurry hoping to get them before the weekend. I'm pretty sure one or the other is the correct size.Quote:
Originally Posted by iriponsnow
The other pair I will pass along here, should work for the next size up or down from me.
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I do not remember which one I got. I took the broken one into a FT dealer and matched for size. I think I ended up with a cable from the FT wide last boots, not the old raichle style FT.Quote:
Originally Posted by waveshello
For now, I spliced some 12 ga stranded insulated wire in to a loop and installed in place of the cable. Seems to be holding just fine, hopefully it holds up till the cable gets here.
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FT soul shell does not use cables -Quote:
Originally Posted by skisurfmirth
You may have found cables from a larger shell size...
Good luck. skiJ
SkiJ, These do use cables. I used the top one.
Attachment 413287
Found the middle cable in stock here:
https://suburbanskiandbike.com/Full-...190-MB1151190/
Sizing for Lupo pro HD seems to be identical to the full tilt ascendant, ie, the 180 mm cable fits my 27.5 dalbello lupo pro HD perfectly.
Sizing as follows (second column from right is the middle cable):
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...fb8edc3559.jpg
I ended up with an extra set of 190 mm cables, if anyone needs one I will mail it to you. I'm keeping the other 180 mm cable for when my other boot breaks.
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Nice work finding the #s
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Hi All.What are the honest opinions on the touring capability of this boot?
I have a very wide forefoot and a very tall forward instep and am over 200 lbs.
Currently trying out the Pro HD at home and will definitely need a punch on the side.
This will be my boot for all days, including days up to and over 2,000 M of vertical climbing in Alberta and BC.
I had tried on the Prime XTD and it felt like there was more forefoot space in the Pro HD, but now after having them on for a bit I'm not sure.
Weight and slower transitions are the biggest drawbacks over a 100% bc boot imo. They don't walk/scramble on rocks or trails as well as a boot with a full rubber, rockered sole either, but with the grip walk soles they are ok.
I did 100% of my touring in mine last season, which was around 20 days. My biggest day was ~6k feet. I have MV tour wraps in mine, with well worn superfeet green footbeds. The whole setup worked very well for me as a quiver of one boot--happy feet all season long. I do tend to prioritize downhill fun over uphill speed.
I'm still going to grab my clapped out Dynafit mercuries if I'm trying to keep up with fast people or doing a lot of transitions.
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Attachment 427828
New Lupo arrived :)
Do all my skiing in Bc/Ab Purcell/RockiesI would use my hojis for touring and sledding and Luptons for the ski hill/slack. Like stated above there are much more efficient boots for touring but the Lupo is a killer hybrid.Quote:
Originally Posted by rockymtn
Thanks I am skiing the same areas as you. I am touring 90% of the time, but at my weight and for durability I am looking at the hybrid style boots. Coming from a pair of Mindbender 130s.Quote:
Originally Posted by skisurfmirth
Trying to figure out if the Pro HD is the way to go and if I can gain some uphill efficiency
Forward ROM on the Lupos is quite good (especially for a crossover boot) with the tongue out, and rearward ROM is also decent. Fucking around with the tongues is clunky and slow to transition though, and the boots still aren't light. Really depends what you want to prioritize.
I have the hoji 130, not the shark nose, and i thought they ski really well. Are the lupos better for the down?Quote:
Originally Posted by skisurfmirth
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I have the hoji 110. I really like them. Best touring boot I’ve ever had and by far the best sled skiing boot. The Lupton (Lupo lower, krypton cuff, no walkmode) I’ve been skiing at the resort/slack is higher cut and has greater lateral power than the Hoji110Quote:
Originally Posted by rod9301
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Yeah that makes sense. I’m much lighter than you. I still ski the Lupton with a b flex tongue so it’s a 130ish flex dalbello but I use the hoji110. Maybe check out the Hoji 130? If 90% of my skiing was touring around here, especially if only from roadside, I would use the hoji over the Lupo.Quote:
Originally Posted by rockymtn
So, a gaggle of questions for those who’ve heat molded their Lupo Pro HD’s shell..
For starters, did you follow Dalbello’s official MyFit guidance for heat molding (or ‘heat customization’, as they put it) the shells, as far as baking the entire shell in an oven at 80°-100°C/176°F-230*F for 8 minutes? Or did you end up doing a diff temp/time for some reason?
What kinda movement did you get from the shell, ie would you say the process was successful, as far as ending up with a better, or even ideally fitting boot, particularly for the areas of your foot that you you were most looking to get better/more room for?
Speaking of which did you use any extra padding on your foot/ankle for hotspots/prominences? And if you initially got good movement in the shell from baking it, did it eventually revert back to its original shape, to some extent?
Any other tips or advice, such as your method in stepping in after heating, buckle tightness, shell cooldown, etc (or even a full walk-through lol) from those who’ve completed this on the current gen Lupo would be humongously appreciated! 🤘🏼🤘🏼
^ ok, I’m just going to slow ur roll. The Lupo HD is made of PU plastic - aka race shell material. It grinds better than molds. Find a race fitter & tip em well.
I found that the forward ROM was inhibited by the high lower shell in the front. Your Shin needs to push through the cabrio part of the shell and that has noticeable resistance.
I only kept mine for a few days. I was disappointed in how they toured and had too much heel lift. I came from Hawx Ultra XTD that I used a Dalbello tongue on. For the rest of the season I used old Vulcans (which I thought had poor forward ROM with the bump stops in (technically they have zero forward ROM))
I prefer not using risers and steeper skin tracks so that could be why I like more forward ROM. Hawx XTD have great forward rom.
Quote:
Originally Posted by rockymtn
Just heard lupo is getting an overhaul for 2024. Any info out there?
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Don't know how I missed this. Thanks for the info. I have commited to the Lupo as my everything boot, will see how it fairs for the season. First tour yesterday I definitely got some heel lift so I need to play with buckle tension. I did like the ROM without the tongue, probably going to hate the tongue on yo-yo days, but most of my stuff is Rockies/Selkirks which is single lap like you.Quote:
Originally Posted by GoldenBC
There is a pick on new schoolers in 2024 gear thread of a LV Cabrio model. Looks like a krypton replacement, so maybe?Quote:
Originally Posted by mtdurk
Link??Quote:
Originally Posted by turnfarmer
Edit: nvmd found it
https://www.newschoolers.com/forum/thread/931387/23-24-gear-hype-thread-?page=3
LV cabrio looks to be a budget price point item ;)