i ended up filing the edges of the rivets down just enough to remove the bar and left enough material to re-rivet when i put it all back together.
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i ended up filing the edges of the rivets down just enough to remove the bar and left enough material to re-rivet when i put it all back together.
Your boot heel need to rest on the heel holder portion (bad terminology?) and just make contact behind that. A few mm rub might be too much. Its easy to over do it with Pivot forward pressure. I'll post a video when I get home this weekend of how I set my Pivot heel pieces. I think the Pivot functions best when it is looser than you think. Ive had indicators that work well and some that don't but I always go for the feel of the dildo returning upright when pulled slightly back with my boot in the binding to know everything is good. It's a shame that there is no definitive set point for Pivots and it becomes about "feel". Crazy.Quote:
Originally Posted by GoldenBC
Seems to me the newer gen of pivot 1.0s need more heel contact when stepping in than the older fks/pivots. Point being it’s not fully consistent from my experience and the dildo play and brake movement when lifting the boot are more reliable indicatorsQuote:
Originally Posted by GoldenBC
I use the stepping as a starting point and then confirm like you said. It sounds like this is consistent with your experience. I hadn’t noticed new 1.0s are similar.
I think we’re all stabbing in the dark to a certain extent. I’ve had decent luck convincing shops to do a release test for free for peace of mindQuote:
Originally Posted by GoldenBC
I also think re-greasing the toes every once in a while is similarly important. I’ve noticed newer pivots use a thinner grease and develop toe slop more quickly than older ones. I think overall pivot quality has decreased kinda like everything else in the world. Paint chips more easily, pole slots on the dildos get gouged away faster, and toes loosen up in less time
I've experienced this as well. I rely on the "lift" test, and in order to get there with the 2.0, I was surprised at how much contact I have between the boot and the heel piece. Much more than with any of my 1.0 Pivots.Quote:
Originally Posted by GoldenBC
FWIW, I also have to say that I believe the fwd pressure indicator on the 2.0 might actually work. At least it seems to on my pair. For what I think is otherwise a disastrous rollout, and a half-assed upgrade, this might be a bright point. It actually seems to move with small adjustments to the arms. I'd love to see if others can confirm.
It does seem to work. If you read the manual it has very different wording compared to the 1.0.
I’d say it’s a nice update. No more boot rub on the arms, more adjustment, better wear points on the dildo, didn’t fuck with what’s good.
Remember the last time they tried to update the pivot (px…). This is great compared to
I’m an FKS/Pivot rookie
I was told that this forward pressure indicator is good to go.
Attachment 507790
But my left heel dildo doesn’t rise as high as my right when I click in. My right seems to max out, but left needs a bit of a tug from my hand to pull it all the way up— tight.
Never noticed it while skiing. The brakes do move a few mm’s on my bench, I doubt they move when standing on it. The dildo arms on the left ski were one driver turn looser than the right ski. Is that the cause?
I tightened the arms to match the right, but it still doesn’t click in the same. Seems odd.
Is this just the famed elasticity of pivots? I’ve read people say you don’t have to click all the way in to “be in.” I mean, yeah, I’m secure but I’d like a consistent delta. I’m also an STH boy who is used to “the clunk.” I’m also at the lowest din of my life— nine. Thinking I’ll go higher when I prerelease.
I didn’t notice any play while skiing, but I was skiing variable snow.
Interesting binding none-the-less. Now I get the “finicky as hell but once you get it dialed you’ll never go back.”
Feels odd posting this in my 48th season on skis. Proof of my naievete.
You can't assume what you do to one binding will work for the other. Each Pivot is its own thing.Quote:
Originally Posted by gaijin
Yo Gaijin. There is no science to setting up the Pivot. Just feels. If your dildos aren't even or coming all the way up, your FP is wrong (too tight). Back up a few clicks and try it again. You want to be in the zone where the dildo goes all the way up, but if you push forward hard on the cuff of the boot that the brake arms don't drop. The dildos should snap all the way up cleanly when you step in.Quote:
Originally Posted by gaijin
Don't feel bad. I've had Pivots mounted by several shops that have gotten it wrong. Like, really fucking wrong..... The FP indicator is a joke. Ignore it altogether.
Edit to add: they dont need to be even. Set them up to work. It may drive your OCD crazy if you're like me.
Laughing at my post from a year ago. I can easily run Pivots one DIN point lower that STH. I've NEVER had an instance with Pivots where I thought I prereleased. I've had several with STH's. I've moved all of my skis back to P15's with one 14 in there for science. I did like the solid step in of the STH.
its been said before in this thread but ill say it again
there are three marked rings on the arms.. you should be in/on/near the middle ring if your bindings were mounted to your proper BSL.. but as others have said, every pivot is different and you might be closer to the other rings.. especially if you change out boots/BSLs and have to adjust
the indicator tab can work.. but don't solely rely on it. to get the indicator to work, every time you take your boot out when doing a forward pressure adjustment, turn the heel piece 90 degrees or at least far enough that you are taking pressure off the indicator so that it can slide forward and "reset" itself. this is crucial for making sure your indicator has a chance of working
another decent benchmark/starting point is making sure the heel of your boot completely covers the heel "tab" of the dildo and at least slightly touches up against the heel cup of the dildo where you are stepping into
when your boot is in always grab your dildo and wiggle it around.. if it wiggles rather easily your fp is too loose.
I also think that all of us should be greasing these things up more than we are.. but I have never greased mine. maybe someone who knows what theyre doing could put a greasing video together
There’s a thread here where gwat gives a rundown. Toes are extremely easy and intuitive, heels are roughQuote:
Originally Posted by bearcub69
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Some grease talk here:Quote:
Originally Posted by bearcub69
https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...est-way-to-fix
https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...p-(metal-toes)
I feel like I'm starting to sound like XXXer and his bamboo skewers but....Quote:
Originally Posted by bearcub69
The brake is the indicator! It is as black and white as the indicator line on any other binding.
thanks for chiming in w the greaseQuote:
Originally Posted by gwat
mind elaborating on the brake being the indicator? ive never heard that before.. maybe I missed it in this thread.. not saying you're wrong. curious and want to know more
I suggested bamboo for plugging old holes if you ain't got plastic plugs, a hack that worked for me on a dark and stormy night, I have never suggested anyone should put a screw in a piece of bamboo but I am sure they do
From now on When people ask the same question for the millionth time I will tell them " PM gwat " that or PM skifishbum
On the grease. Didn’t read the other threads. But I’m sure I posted there. Most bindings are white lithium which is too water soluble for me.Quote:
Originally Posted by gwat
I like bike lube. Plastic safe. And more water resistant.
Phil woods is still made. But there are others.
Ironically I just pulled a set of markers to remount. The worm track was brutally dry. Not that that matters. But for pivots the toe has an inside ball that needs to pivot. These bindings can last forever. But if you need reliable release values there needs to be lube. Yeah we can argue about spring fatty gay. Not sure about that. Haven’t reduced din for the summer. Bindings still work. But without lube the release is sus.
Thanks for all the advice, guys.
I played around with forward pressure by backing the arms screws off past the 3rd ring and then back to super tight and never found a place where the dildo wouldn't fluctuate.
Finally, I just set it so the heel of my boot touches the heel cup and accepted that that's where my forward pressure is supposed to be. Still loose. So I cranked the din... which is a fallacy because that spring was wayyy too easy to tighten. "There is no way this is a nine, or a ten, or an eleven, or a twelve." At twelve it finally (kinda) matches my other heel's 9.
I'm wondering if because this thing sat in a closet for 20 years that the steel got brittle? In the shop when we mounted it, and tested it, it seemed fine. But maybe after a couple of morning of being flexed in the cold I cracked a spring and that's why I noticed it later?
I don't know. One way to find out-- take it apart. What am I in store for?
Either way, at 12 it "feels" like an 8-9 with my hand opening and closing it. Yay-- Science!
But the good news is it did get harder to tighten as I raised the din... so maybe it's not cracked after all. Is it possible for the DIN indicator to somehow separate from the spring?
This month's skiing is pretty mellow stuff, so we'll see how this problem progresses.
The dildo should snap erect briskly and cleanly when the boot is inserted, both sides should look and feel roughly the same when snapping in, and there should be no play when you’re riding the chairlift and twist your skis back and forth like an 8 year old. Sounds more like not enough FP to me, but could be either.
Thanks, Mustonen. As I assumed.
The only way for me to get this particular heel to snap is to raise the DIN.
It only snaps at 12+.
And it feels too easy to turn the DIN.
I’m wondering if it’s stripped. So while the DIN indicator is moving forward, the pressure actually isn’t.
I’ll ski a stripped heel until it becomes a problem, but— kinda unfun now. I was amped on my nostalgic approach.
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They’re not hard to break down and inspect the spring and relube.
20 years is a long time. I suppose the spring could sag after 20 years under tension. I know some people turn din down for the summer. I never have.
Then again I had two cracked springs on my car last year. wtf. That never happened in my life. Anecdotal. But weird
PS. If the din indicator is moving it’s showing the thread screwing in. But if the spring is compromised you’re not getting din anymore
PPS. Lots of folks say you can increase din on pivots since the heel pivots and there is some upward release on the toe
I skied a pair of old ZRs until just a couple years ago. Had to replace a few parts over the years but generally they were bomber. Eventually just didn’t seem worth it to keep rolling the dice.
That said, if you’ve got a bum dildo all you have to do is screw a new one on to the heel/brake assembly. I’ve got a few hanging around (including the ZRs) for just that eventuality. If I’ve got some the same vintage I’d happily send them your way.
In the gun world we discuss springs a lot. Mainly magazine springs. The consensus is that springs do not wear from being static, but rather that they wear from travel. I know people back their bindings down over the summer. I never have, but I also don't keep bindings for that long. I would be surprised if that spring got soft. Less surprised if it broke. Take it apart and inspect it.
This discussion precipitated a brief dive down the rabbit hole of spring creep vs spring fatigue. Now that I’m an expert on the matter, I shall opine here: backing off a binding would typically be to guard against creep. Unlikely to be necessary unless the spring is subjected to high heat or other stressors causing slow deformity. Fatigue would be induced by a high cycle rate causing small fractures that eventually lead to breakage and failure, also unlikely under ideal conditions but more likely than creep. An older binding would probably be subject to corrosion, however, increasing likelihood of both but particularly fatigue. I concur that a broken spring is a likely culprit.