A few weeks back Discount Tire had a $100 off special on 4 tires over $400 on Ebay. I bought the Conti DWS tires again, as last time I had them I did like the snow performance of them the few times I needed it.
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That's what I just wore out is Conti Extreme Contact DWS and I really thought I was going to get more miles out of them so was a little disappointed. Yeah I drive it like a sports car sometimes but no burnouts or drifting (well, very little rear end sliding ;) ) it's almost all highway driving and barely got 30k, only ~20 before the S wore through and ~25 for the W. I'm wondering if the EC is a slightly softer durometer rubber and maybe the new DWS 06 would last a bit longer. I sure liked the wet weather performance which also leads me to think softer rubber. I'm still looking for someone that has run the Motivo tires to get some thoughts on them.
I run the conti dws 06 as my summer tire on a turbo forester. I drive it like I stole it and they’re down to 6/32 after 28k or so. Definitely showing less grip as the S wore off the fronts this summer. Probably try to squeak another season but it’s a city /canyon car so I’m not usually far from home.
Bump.
Does anyone have any experience with the Nokian WR G4 yet? They have been mentioned in this thread but I didn't see anyone that has actually bought and used them.
Also, can someone fill me on the the differences between the Hakka 8, 9, and R3? Obviously the 8 and 9 can be studded and the R3 is not. But, I can buy non-studded 8s for $50/tire less than R3s but have no clue what the difference is.
https://www.guideautoweb.com/en/arti...nd-small-suvs/
I have run the R3's for the last 2 seasons and they rock. No experience with the G4.
I think the difference between the R3 and 9 is basically deep snow performance. I don't think you can go wrong with either.
Hybrids and Eco blends act softer on cold pavement and harder on warm pavement. Not better than a full on snow on ice but way better than traditional no season tires of the past.
So I have R3 on my suv and wife has non-studded 8 on hers. I’m more impressed with the 8 for sure. It is higher sidewall on her tire so that may be part of it. But do it over I will get Hakka 8
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After a couple/few seasons with the canadian tire full winter tires on my 1/2 tonne, I decided to size down my wheels from 20" to 17" and get all weather tires to avoid having to change them.
I bought Kumho Road Venture AT51 tires from 1010tires.com for a little over $600 Canadian including shipping.
My subjective opinion is that they are just as good as the old full winters I had... in that they still slide a little on glare ice but everywhere else they're very confidence inspiring and I feel just as comfortable with them as my previous winters.
I also add over $300 pounds of weight directly over the rear axle until about April to help with rear wheel traction.
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All you Subie owners. What studded tires we running? I’m up this winter
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I think it was that 300lbs... Or your old winter tires sucked ass. These at51s do not compare to any snow tire I've driven in any slippery winter conditions.
At51 are not any better than all seasons imho.
Goodyear wrangler silent armors are waaaaaaay better all arounder at that handles winter conditions. I got the at51 for the forerunner because they were cheaper than gysa we had previously. regrets, will replace them with GYSA as the summer/fall at tire once the at51 wear out.
I know guys who just drive around small town narthern BC not very much milage so they just run the same tires all year round but its snow tire they run all year
I just shelled out < 1800$ for new steel rims and 10ply LT3 Haks cuz they are simply zee best, at my current tire usage I won't be buying tires for 10 yrs
My last rig (older Xterra) got snow tires shortly after I bought it and then I never bothered buying summer tires because I've also got a motorcycle. Living at 5,000 feet and playing at 7-11k in Montana, that worked pretty well (when I really didn't want to ride the bike, the snow tires usually weren't a bad thing).
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I like the Nokian All-Weather & they have handled summer fine. They are good at picking up screws & nails but expect a soft tire would. The real test is whether they have the same grip as last winter.
And to think it takes me 30-40 minutes to switch tires.
https://youtu.be/aHSUp7msCIE
Nice, thanks. Think I'll pull the trigger on a set. They're available in factory studded and non-studded versions, at least here in the US. If I was going studded I would look at the Hakk 9's, since they have the little air cushion thing and are supposed to be quiet/handle well on dry pavement for a studded tire. Definitely don't need the studded LT3's where I currently reside.
Last season I ordered a pair of unstuded Haka LTs, but they showed up with studs. I knew that I would need snow tires after the Studded tires April 15th ban. However, I decided to just run the studs, and I was super happy with them.
In April I bought a set of Mazama Open Range A/Ts with a mountain snowflake. They have been a good tire on spring snow, logging roads, and towing all summer.
I bet the Mazama Open Range would be good for year-around with the occasional need to chain-up. With the Hakas I only need chains if towing. Also, it was nice towing with the Hakas when making a Christmas RV trip and driving over roads with a bit of ice/snow/frost but never enough to need for chains
How was the noise level with the studded ones?
IMO, with my LT2s, it's noticeable but I don't tend to find it obnoxious until I get a couple of warm April afternoons that I'm driving home from skiing with the windows open. It is more noise than my AT tires, but with the windows closed and radio on, I have to listen for it to hear it.
Thanks for the input. I was primarily curious but I do too much wet, cold driving (i.e. 32-42ish degrees F and raining) to justify the hit to wet road braking and handling that comes with studs.
I've never run studded tires, but I can always hear a car on studded tires coming from about 2 miles away. Bet they're noisier from outside the car than within.
Also, sorry for the hijack: this is the 3PMSF all season thread, not the thread to discuss what is probably the most capable snow tire on the market.
IDK.. A studded all season tire would be totally bad ass! Maybe make the studs out of diamonds so they bite asphalt and concrete like crazy
For the driving you describe, Blizzak DMV2 or Hakka R3 are the ultimate in performance.
If you rarely have exposed pavement and are always driving on ice and hardpack between fresh snows, that is when studded is worth it over stud-less (which truly do have comparable performance on hardpack/ice). I'd choose a Hakka studded for top studded performance.
Mich Xi3 is the preferred long life studdless snow. Hankooks seems to be the budget choice.
Whatever you get: narrow your section width by 10-20mm, so if you were a 265/65/17, a 245/75/17 will give you much more performance because in deeper stuff, instead of planing or getting pushed around, you will cut through slush and get the tire on the road surface. Narrowing the section width also offers the opportunity to lower the tire height which gives you less snow tire squirlies on the corners and a lower center of gravity. Dropping your ride height can be a good idea unless you frequently are encountering snow that is near or above your car's clearance.
This. Well said and put together.
I experienced this first hand when I moved from Eastern WA to Western. Although it was kinda fun to side-slide/power-spin through wet concrete curves with worn Hankook studded. Not fun knowing that traction wouldn’t be there if needed in an evasive manuever.
Well said, Summit. Although the real reason that you feel a shorter tire biting more in slick conditions has to do with the LENGTH of the contact patch, not the width. The tread width difference between a 265 and 245 are negligible when they're mounted on a vehicle, but that smaller diameter tire will have a substantially shorter contact patch. This is also the reason that tall, skinny tires are preferred for off-roading pretty much everywhere in the world except this country, where morons are obsessed with running the widest tire they can possibly shoehorn under a truck. Don't get me started on negative offset wheels...
That makes sense! Although I can say that when I'm cutting through slush piles, say chaging lanes, I feel less pushed around. Maybe that is surface area pushing through, or maybe its the contact patch? Or both probably.
Fat tires make sense for flotation and grip in the loose: sand, deep snow, etc. I put 275 AT51s on the 4Runner for summer, wasn't feeling the need to mod for extra width. Next set might be stock 265s GYSAs.
Just ordered up a set of studded Hakk 8's for the milf mobile ( XC60 T6 ). Went through the last couple of winters on unstudded IPikes that were meh. We ran studded IPikes on a previous RX350 (sucky AWD) and XC90 and XC70 (awesome AWD) which we liked better. Let's see how these do.
Tires Easy had a great deal, $94 each and free shipping.
Some AT tires are studdable (I think the Duratrac is, General Grabber AT, and maybe the KO2?). I've also heard of studding MT tires, which sounds like an interesting idea for deep-snow driving or just keeping your bro-dozer from sliding off the road.
I'm currently considering options for the wife's XV. She doesn't think she needs snow tires, but the all-seasons on it are worn enough that I'd disagree, but not worn enough to be trash. Putting an all-weather tire on still sounds appealing from a "not needing to swap in the spring" perspective, as she wants to replace the car soon enough that I'm not convinced buying a set of wheels is worth the effort.
Just a reminder that weight and pressure determine contact patch area. I don't think a slight change in diameter you would see from, say the next size up or down that would still work on the same vehicle is going to have much of an effect on shape though. Clearly, if I make my tire 20mm narrower, the patch will need to be 20mm longer. But what change would I see from going like 1/2" shorter in diameter?
In addition to a narrower tread having some benefit in looser stuff, deep snow, slush (rally cars use hilariously narrow tires in the winter btw), the other part if it has to do with what's called slip angle. When you corner, there's a difference between where the wheel is pointed and where the car is actually going. Part of this slip angle comes from deflection of the tire casing, some comes from deflection of the tread, and some comes from parts of the tread slipping in relation to the road. More slip angle, more cornering force, more cornering force, more slip angle. On pavement, a lower slip angle is preferable, so low profile, wide, stiff tires. Makes the car more responsive and keeps tire temps lower. On ice and snow and low grip situations however, softer, taller, narrower tires mean higher slip angles and more feedback to what's happening between the tire and the road before you are fully sliding out of control. A tall, skinny snow tire being pushed on pavement might get up to over 10 degrees, where a low profile high performance tire would only be at like 2 degrees of slip at the same cornering force.
The downside there being more floating and squirming around on the dry pavement but you get used to that and it works better in the snow.
General's Arctic 12 will be going on the 4R. Their Altimax Arctics without studs have been great on the passenger vehicle, whatever it has been, for the last 4 winters.....pavement/pseudo-pavement:D in Maine = all types of junk.
FWIW, we moved to the Durango area in September of 2015 and my wife has already burned through new sets of Nokian WR's and Toyo Celsius, about 60K total.
I'm done with this type of tire, they just don't hold up around here. Will have to start switching back and forth in winter/spring. PITA but will save $$$ in the long run.
Going into winter with 5yr old BFG All-Terrain A/T KO2 all seasons. 52000km, 50% wear so far. Been happy with them on the chevy 1500 for the last few yrs. Some true 4X4 work, but mostly family excursions 60/40 hwy/good gravel road. Anyone got complaints or comments to offer for the back half of tread life?