I did this method on my last mount. It worked great. I made marks closer to the tips and tails to minimize any errors. Then I connected with my 48" straight edge. No measuring, no arcs. Done and done.Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankZappa
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I did this method on my last mount. It worked great. I made marks closer to the tips and tails to minimize any errors. Then I connected with my 48" straight edge. No measuring, no arcs. Done and done.Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankZappa
This isn't as accurate as scribing arcs. The "paper trick" doesn't guarantee that you're square to the center line of the ski. The beauty of the scribed arcs method is that there's very little room to screw it up. I triple checked what the scribed arcs found as the center line with every other method I'm aware of and it clearly was the most accurate while also being the fastest.Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankZappa
My combo square has an adjustable ruler so I only had to drill one hole that will work with every width ski. No Swiss cheese situation here.
I do it simpler these days.
Run masking tape down the middle.
Put a speed square on one side and mark the eighth inch nearest the centerline (e.g. 1 and 7/8" )
Then flip the square over to the other side of the ski and mark the same distance.
Use your eyeballs to split the difference and find the true center.
Do this in three or four locations and use a straightedge to connect the dots down the centerline.
Centering tools are cool but this works quite well.
Yep. This is what I do...minus the masking tape.Quote:
Originally Posted by Core Shot
I thought that getting my skis drilled at a shop, and screwing down the bindings myself would be a good idea. Now I have a crooked dynafit toe. I'm sure they'll re do it for me, but I would rather fix it myself at this point.
How crooked are they? If they're just a bit off you should be fine:Quote:
Originally Posted by mtaylor
1. Back off the screws
2. Insert boot into both toe and heel pieces
3. Does the boot fit? If so, tighten the front 2 screws on the toe, and any screws on the heel that you can access.
4. Remove boot, tighten remaining screws.
5. Go skiing.
6. Next time, mount your own fucking skis (see this thread)
5mm off crooked. The skis already have a bunch of holes in them, so I filled the old holes with epoxy/steel wool and I am going to correct it with inserts. Lining it up with paper, it should work.
I did that by the way. Then I tried to ski them without repairing it, and got 2 turn in before a toe release. I got to the parking lot with the toes locked.
Mounted my Candide Pows last night with the help of Jondrum's templates. Mounted the bindings to a scrap piece of wood first to use as a sanity check, everything was gravy. Thought I might have to buy new brakes for them, but was able to bend the stock 97mm (Deadbolt/ Tyrolia 15) ones to fit.
Had all kinds of a hard time finding a #3 Pozidriv, ends up a #2 Robertson (square) also fits, and works better than a Phillips.
I hate to repeat stuff that is a simple search away (probably within this exact thread), but hell with it. It has been said here many times before, but http://www.wihatools.com/indexes/indxpozi.htm is a good source for your pozidriv stuff. For more ski specific tools, Slide Wright has what you need.Quote:
Originally Posted by ryanjfitz
Thanks, but I meant had a hard time finding one locally. Harbor Freight, Tractor Supply, True Value, etc all had nothing. Of course teh interwebz has everything. Didn't feel like waiting for it to ship, so went looking around the local stores.Quote:
Originally Posted by davieboot
So the other day I'm putting my wife's skis back on the rack and for some reason I have a close look at them. Back before I mounted my own fucking bindings, I paid a shop to mount these... and I've just now noticed that they just mounted to the top-sheet mark and didn't make sure each ski was consistent.
One binding is at least 1cm back of the other! WTF? Rookie mistake.
Just re-enforces why I'll continue to mount my own fucking skis...
That is all.
Oh, right. That is nearly impossible, even in a decent sized city.Quote:
Originally Posted by ryanjfitz
Thanks to this thread I have successfully mounted a couple of skis.
Previous skis had the boot center clearly marked on the top sheet. I am mounting a Blizzard Bonfafide and the only mark is on the side. Can anyone confirm that the arrow in the attached pic represents boot center. These are the only markings on the sidewall.
Attachment 129910
Quote:
Originally Posted by -Devin-
Don't just trust the markings. Do your own measurements, find true center, then go -4cm, -6cm, however much you want from there.
Thanks. I just emailed Blizzard. I'm sit skier and split a pair with a friend. Don't have any specs on where they recommend as a start point.Quote:
Originally Posted by DRZ1050i
If you're only mounting 1 binding I'd say you're going to be close enough to just go for it at that mark.
The recommendations to do your own measurements are more relevant when you're mounting a pair... they don't always make them the same.
Actually it's more like you pay someone to have sex for you while you watch.Quote:
Originally Posted by Eldo
Thanks, I looked for wiha screwdrivers after I saw one of my colleague's, but I misspelled the name. Their robbies are amazing.Quote:
Originally Posted by davieboot
West germany... I guess these aren't flying off the shelves.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/01/17/u3etytan.jpg
I had this conversation with a tech in a uk shop. He said use super glue over wood glue. On a spinning thread, its locked it down. Cyanacrylate.
A possible local source for pozidrive hand drivers: Woodcraft. They sell Wiha hand drivers and have pozidrive drivers. In store stock will vary from store to store.
Gentlemen, a question. I want to reuse some old holes, and I keep reading about using a steel wool and epoxy mixture, but haven't been able to find any details. How much steel wool should be in the epoxy, as in what is the ratio? How fine do you cut it up? Is a finer steel wool better than a coarse steel wool?
Or should I just not worry about it and just use epoxy? As far as I can tell, the holes still have good threads in them.
Cheers.
I think the epoxy wire wool mix is for if you can't tighten the reused binding holes.
If the holes still have good threads, no need for steel wool. Glue it and screw it. Be sure to tighten by hand, and don't over-tighten.Quote:
Originally Posted by billyhoyle
Awesome, thanks guys! Glue and screw it is...that must apply to ladies somehow, but I can't figure it out.
That'd be rather unfortunate if you reached over in the dark and grabbed a bottle of glue instead of your sloppy sauce.Quote:
Originally Posted by billyhoyle
bump
cuz I'm mounting my kid's new fucking skis
Attachment 132723
118cm Volkl Gotama Jr with Silvretta Pure Kidz
What more could a six year old want?
He has no idea. He will be fired up when he staggers down the stairs in the morning.
Great. My kid's confidence and skills improved while riding his Got Jrs. With his touring option (barons) it was a great combo to introduce him to touring. Enjoy every moment. They grow up fast and then kick your ass.
Owen ripped the shit outta these skis today. Carving harder. He took a step up with new boards.
Just mounted my own fucking skis. Props to Jondrums for sexy templates. Plum guide toe Bsl measurement was right on, had to measure a little extra for the heel because mine are not centered and I don't want to mess with the sider screws when switching between inserts. Just have to break out the stove fuel to scrub off the giant sharpie centerline and bootcenter cross.
Just used my jigarex for the first time. Used a stepped drill bit. Apparently the step doesn't really act like a stop. On two of the holes it countersunk a bit deeper than I would have liked. Didn't go into the core or anything, but there's more material gone than I'd like. I really wasn't pressing down hard, so I was a bit surprised. On all my previous mounts I was too shy with the countersink and had volcanos. Figures I'd end up taking too much material off this time.
I just put some waterproof glue in and screwed them down like I usually do. No spinners. Mount seems solid. Anything to worry about?
The step is as much to chamfer the hole as it is a stop, so it takes a lighter touch than a "true" stop like a collar. Plus, some topsheets are softer (for lack of a better term) than others. Probably not a big deal, but if you're really worried you could pop them off and remount them with a liberal amount of epoxy.Quote:
Originally Posted by bern43
Bumping this thread... I routinely mount my own bindings- this allows me to measure accurately, take my time, and get a perfect mount. But I was pressed for time and super busy this weekend, so I decided to take my skis and boots to a local shop for a Dynafit Mount as their prices are cheap and they have a good reputation. Shop assured me they knew how to mount them and that they'd done many before.
Long story short, came back later and they totally botched the job. Toes were crooked on both skis. Didn't bother telling me, but when I checked in the store it was obvious- boots did NOT line up with heel pins. Manager came out and said they'd plug the holes with wood dowels (which I do, no issues there) and remount to make it right, so I'm not gonna call them out, but the message stands: even if you're pressed for time, MOUNT YOUR OWN FUCKING SKIS.
That is all.
i just got done MOUNTING MY OWN FUCKING SKIS!
carry on.
Spent the afternoon lining up some BG's, going to drill and finish later this week
Just finished dropping BF inserts in a pair of 138's, went a lot faster than my first set in Bros a couple years ago. (Nothing like drilling 1/4" holes in brand-new skis, not for the faint of heart.) Bought a scrap of 1.25" acrylic sheet from a local plastics house and made it into a pretty sweet tapping guide. Having your guide 1.5" high ensures perfectly vertical tapped holes.
http://www.phototurbo.com/ski/ski-in...de-acrylic.jpg
Super-easy to center on the holes. And the rubber feet get the guide up off the ski so you can watch the depth marks on the tap (and provide clearance for the slight curvature of the topsheet), and gives the chips somewhere to go. I start with a tapered tap to get good solid threads in the top half of the holes (where the binding retention plates are), then knock out the lower wood threads with a bottoming tap. (Don't use a stop collar on a tap, you can tear out your new threads if you hit the collar and keep turning the tap.)
http://www.phototurbo.com/ski/ski-in...e-acrylic2.jpg
I like that guide. Just did a new pair of skis (with inserts) last night and was constantly worried about not getting the tap straight. All came out well (my best insert install to date, easily) but this might be a good thing to have.Quote:
Originally Posted by 1000-oaks
Pretty cheap to get that chunk of acrylic?
Anything standard I can use to fill old holes and for a new mount? Or do I need to order some specialized epoxy/glue? I am not using inserts, just a regular mount
Lots and lots and lots already written about this.