Cool ^^ I just finished fixing the undermined edges of the cork soles on some birkenstocks
Also its paddling/ rescuecourse season as the rivers open up so i was fixing dry suits last week
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Cool ^^ I just finished fixing the undermined edges of the cork soles on some birkenstocks
Also its paddling/ rescuecourse season as the rivers open up so i was fixing dry suits last week
Thank you for the tutorial XXX-er. I got a bit overzealous picking up my freshly tuned skis with my FTP mitts on and gave myself a repair opportunity. I pulled the Aquaseal out of the freezer (had fixed a hiking shoe previously), warmed it, peeled back the slice with a toothpick and placed AQS in with another toothpick. I’m happy with the result.
Attachment 410598
sounds like you did it right, It looks like you also put something over the AQS while it cured to give the fairly smooth finish
every out door person should have a tube of AQS to fix their stuff
I used the recommended plastic bag for this.
My tent says 40D silicone polyester on the website for the floor.
https://www.sixmoondesigns.com/produ...SABEgKrp_D_BwE
There are some abrasions that let light through but it’s not a full breach. I think I can paint over them with some adhesive and call it good.
Am I right to think I should get the seam grip +sil or will regular AQS work? Silicone caulk from Lowe’s?
Also, can I dilute it with everclear? I don’t have a need for a pint of toxic mineral spirits. I only need maybe an ounce of total solution and probably apply 1/10th of that.
Also my rain jacket is the same material as the tent so if I have extra proper adhesive it could be handy.
Thanks in advance!!
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I can confirm that regular AS does not stick to silicon treated tents, but the +sil version works great. Not sure how to cut it. I'd just go full strength.
Regular 100% silicone caulk sticks to sil poly/nylon. Dilution with mineral spirits is great for seam sealing so that it spreads nicely, but you can use it full strength too. It will just be gloppy.
Mineral spirits is necessary for deep cleaning bike chains prior to applying queso, so you'd be all set for that.
I can tell you aqs/ shoogoo/ seam grip are all just liquid ureathane made by Gear aid in various consistencies depending on app but I got no idea what your situation requires, so maybe post up whatever you do
mineral spirits AKA white gas does an amazing job of cleaning a chain, every speck of dirt or grease will be gone
Would you trust a DIY AQS re-sole or send them to a pro?
About a mile away from the truck I was schwacking a bit and noticed the sole separating at the toe of one of my boots, just as I got back to the truck the other oneAttachment 438957 came completely off
well a boot maker is just going to glue it so the question IS what does he glue it with ?
I would try either a solvent based contact cement or AQS, the contact cement will stick on contact , AQS would have to be clamped 24 hrs
edit: I've often wondered how one of those super duty construction adhesives would work out for a boot sole ?
Barge rubber cement is what many cobblers use.
I fixed my old Crispi leather tour boots years ago with silicone construction adhesive when they had a similar failure and got a few more years out of them.
You will need to clean off ALL of the old glue on both surfaces for best results with what ever you use.
Got some patagucci 3L untracked pants for free from a buddy (woot woot!). They are a bit long. Can I just cut them, fold the seam inside and glue it with AquaSeal? Has anyone done something similar?
I’ve done this. Works fine. Depending on how much length you take off, you might end up with funny-looking short scuff guards.Quote:
Originally Posted by snowtastic
Should be fine, you might wana iron to get the material laying down the aqs goes on the inside, I would clamp overnight to get the seam laying nice, you might have to do it in a couple of apps but the cuff of a pant is not where your worry about the finish
Thanks for your advice XXX-er and Jongle!
I glued the hem of my 3L hardshell pants, now. It was my first time working with AS but I think it went well. I used the accelerator that came with the package and it was cured in 2 hours. Pretty impressive. Still, I let it sit for 8 hours with some clamps and lots of heavy books on top of it. I think it turned out decent, from the outside you wouldn't know. Let's see how it holds up.
STOKED!
Attachment 445909
Attachment 445910
Nicely done.
Ok so if you put the rest of the tube in the freezer in a jar it might be ok for the next repair
Reattaching a touring sole that's starting to detach (newish boots, this is from repeated application of heat for punching).
Aquaseal? G flex? or something else?
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T-nuts & screws if no luck with adhesives?
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I think they recommend barge cement for boot soles and apparently there are different kindsQuote:
Originally Posted by fleaches
It is hard to get the "good" extra-stinky Barge cement these days, especially in hobbyist quantities since they only sell the big jugs that cobblers use. But that's what you want for solid repairs on things like boot soles and climbing shoes.Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
But there are some ebay sellers that will decant small quantities from big bottles of the "Original" for close to the price of the tubes of the toulene-free version: https://www.ebay.com/itm/35303740546...AAOSweateiido&
Dear Doctor Aquaseal,
Hard to believe, but Djongo broke my bong !
I think a proper bong repair should include Aquaseal eh, but Djongo wants to use spray-on Plasti-dip.
Tomorrow is 4/20 and we will be celebrating the holiday with skifishbum, so a proper repair is mandatory for the expected industrial scale bong usage.
~Harry
Too funny. Non ski related post of the year contender.
In the 80’s Shoe Goo was my go to for bong repair…
I'm a gummy guy myself now days But an AQS type product might work