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Full disclosure:
It is a two year old bike from the fleet that I maintain at Snow King. It was a sort of favor/bonus, It needs some stuff I have at home to be saleable, so rather than spend $200 or whatever to be able to sell it for $300, I just bought it for $100.
So, yeah.
She’s stoked. Mostly so we can ride together, me on a meat bike, and her on that. It’s actually really light, great range, and will go 28.
Bought: tools - a Park BB tool, a brake bleed kit, and a Pedro's chain gauge. Getting into a new generation of bikes has hidden costs apparently...
Upgraded: not installed yet, but an X01 chain and a X01 pivot bolt for my GX drivetrain. Found both on sale and it sounds like they will save me money in the long run and perform better in the meantime.
I bought a set of Mavens & associated bleed kit / MMX adapters. I've been mostly happen with my Dominions, but have been curious how the Mavens would work for me since they came out. I wouldn't mind having a little bit more power while still running 200 rotors (220s seem to get bent easily for me), and a functional contact point adjust. Right now the Dominions seem to develop a differential bite feel every couple weeks, due to me dragging brake down steeper trails, and I know how to fix it, but it's kind of a hassle.
I feel like this happens to me as well with my Dominions, how do you fix it?Quote:
Originally Posted by Andeh
Chasing a persistent, annoying creak. Threw a bunch of money at a Chris King headset. TBD whether it solves the issue.
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Run 1 lever's reach adjust all the way. Pull on the lever firmly and hold for a sec or 2, repeat a few times. Reset lever to preferred reach. Repeat with second lever.Quote:
Originally Posted by meepmoop24
Awesome, thanks! I just got my Dominions and assumed I didn't bleed them properly after this happened.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andeh
YMMV but in 6 yrs on stock carbon framed Yeti and SC with both ZEB and fox 36 creaking in the headset area has always been fixed by taking it apart and wiping it all down, put it back together with carbon pasteQuote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
carbon paste for the aluminium seat post in a carbon frame is a must, also slathered some on seat rails
a little carbon paste goes a long way IME
Counter opinion: all carbon paste has done for me is fuck up dropper post lowers. I apply a thin coating of marine grease (Wolf Tooth's red stuff is my current favorite) on the post lower and no creaks, even with shims. Same story on saddle rails.
Zero headset or BB creaks since I switched to Chris Kings a few years back. I keep the crappy Cane Creek 40s or whatever that comes on a bike, and swap it back on when I sell it, keeping the good stuff for myself.
I just recently (finally) found mine.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
I had swapped Cane Creek (Enduro made) bearings into my Works Components angleset.
Since the CC upper bearing had a 36* ID bevel (the WC bearings are 45*ID bevel), I was using the matching CC compression wedge. Turns out, the WC top cap compression wedge relief cutout was juuuuuust barely smaller than the CC compression wedge, so it didn't seat correctly.
I always assumed one needs to change a headset as an assembley, no ?
Depends on the HS design but you can usually change out the bearings.Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
That's what I did (to mixed results)
Replaced the two bikes that were stolen over the past weekend with some satisfactory units for the wife and kid.
Attachment 499284
Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
Best practices call for complete assembly change. I always figure when one part takes a shit there will be something else happening shortly after.
So headsets come complete, as uppers and lowers, or you can get most of the individual parts. If you have one crunchy bearing does it make very much sense to maybe be knocking out and pressing in new cups? changing the dust cover or top cap or star nut?
If you have a cheap headset with loose ball bearings then sure yeah replace the whole thing when something wears out but if it's a nicer one just buy new bearings or whatever.
anyway recently i've bought a shitload of new tires, a fancy light, and a bunch of shit to get ready for cyclocross which starts here in a couple of weeks
If carbon assembly paste has ruined the inside of your dropper post maybe you used too much or put it on the wrong part, it only goes where the carbon frame touches the aluminium seatpost, carbon paste was the only thing that could silence my yeti frame
or the race gets worn a certain way or the new bearing is the rong bearing but if you change the whole headset this should not happenQuote:
Originally Posted by halliday
btw if you send in a fork for service take the lower race off just in case your fork gets lost or warrantied otherwise you are forced to replace the headset as well
I've had at least 3 creaking headsets on 2 bikes so 2 different brands of fork 2 different stems and it all went away by taking apart the headset/ stem/ top cap and wiping every thing down some grease or carbon paste so no parts changed no money spentQuote:
Originally Posted by jamal
if a headset really is bad i would change the whole thing
BTW the star nut doesnt hold the fork on, the stem holds the fork on, the star nut does help you set head set tension after that other than a place to screw on the top cap the star nut doesnt really do anythingso you could take it off and save grams, havent seen that yet
I had a z-1 back in the day I bought used, I think the steerer tube might have been undersized cuz I got stem creep so the bearing tension always loosened off so buddy had bashed in about 6 or 7 star nuts one on top of another which didn't fix the problem and one thru the bottom to hang a fender so you couldn't drive the 6 or 7 starnuts thru, I had to do some drilling and then I instaled a hedlock to fix the problem, it basicly bolts the whole headset/ fork together with a long bolt & nut
There's no reason to pull and repress new housings in a HS if you just need new bearings. They're just housings that the bearings sit in. No movement & no wear.
The bearings wear, the housing is just an inert, well, housing.
The only reason to buy a complete new HS is if you're upgrading.
Nice.Quote:
Originally Posted by klauss
apparently with mixed resultsQuote:
Originally Posted by Roxtar
Yeah, but then if your headset needs to be tightened on the trail your screwed - the other day I wrecked and knocked the bars out of alignment, and had to loosen the stem to realign everything... without the cap I would have lost tension in the system.Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
In theory you could take the top cap & bolt off but like I say I havent seen it yet
usually I just hold wheel and twist the bars straight
Had nothing to do with swapping bearings. This was an issue caused by using a mishmash of parts due to availability.Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
Works Components 1.5* Angleset = $125
or
Enduro ABC 4545 1125 BO (top bearing)= $19
Enduro ACB 4545 150 BO (bottom bearing) = $22
+
Not having to painstakingly align and press angleset housing into frame = Priceless.
Got some RF Era bars, 800mm and 40mm rise plus some of the PNW XL grips. Also went to a 220mm front rotor and moved the 200mm to the rear to replace the 180mm that was there. Everything felt good, but biffed it pretty good which seems to have been a season ender.
^^ Curious to see how you like it. People love to bag on Polygon, but they are selling a lot of stuff, and its probably out of the same factory that makes some dentist bikes....
Will do so when i have some rides in on it.
Have to say i am impressed so far going over it after the assembly.
Picked up some Launch Elite knee pads locally today at 40% off. They are so damn comfy right out of the box, can’t wait to formally break them in. Got them specifically for long pants bike park riding.
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Got my cyclocross stuff all sorted out. You definitely end up with a lot of shit and I in no way need this to race local beer league plus a few weekend races (plus pan ams again). And on the other had if you want to go racing seriously it's like, just barely a start.
Attachment 499847
One set of new wheels - DT350 hubs to nox zolder rims, came out to 1350g for the set. New tires for the old wheels, fresh drivetrain because mine is toast after the year of riding and gravel racing, a second cassette, and another set of rotors.
all the tires are glued and we're ready to go i guess. First race next weekend
Attachment 499848
Nearly bought a Felt with Ultegra Di2, but I stumbled into this today for less money and figured this was about as good as it gets for road bikes..
Kind of doubted the whole 'superbike' thing, but I shaved 2 mins off my PR on a local 2k climb. And the thing is a rocket on the downhill....
Attachment 499906
Fast road bikes are fast! Great looking bike, nice and aggressive. Super Record, I don’t see that often, Viva Italia.
Looks like a nice hill climber.Quote:
Originally Posted by sfotex
How are you liking your Aeroad?Quote:
Originally Posted by halliday
Attachment 499940
My riding buddy bought trickstuffs (cz they were on sale at Smith Creek Cycle!) 2nd ride on them he OTBs and popped a lever. Pretty sure he'll just need to replace a retaining ring and maybe a seal, but still funny it happened.
BTW, trickstuffs are the real deal. Haven't tried Mavens yet but the trickstuffs are like having EMERGENCY STOP buttons on your bars compared to my dominions. just takes no effort at all to brake with them.
Ok, this is going out of hands...
Beginning of the year, Forbidden Druid V1. A little too short reach in size XL, suspension felt amazing going down, but pretty toothless on the climbs.
Next onto Propain Hugene. This one climbed better than any bike that I tried, great handling, good geometry but would wear me out quickly on rougher descents.
Enter Forbidden Druid v2 MX, size S4. This one climbs really great. Geometry and suspension are more balanced for both up and down. My first mullet so it can also contribute but my times both up and down are faster than on Hugene or Druid V1, despite being heavier than Propain. Shifting is surprisingly better than with either with exactly the same setup.
Tried with both Mattoc Pro at 150mm and Mezzer Pro at 160mm and prefer the overall feeling of Mattoc. Truly amazing bike! https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...49a38b3706.jpg
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I had that happen right at the top a race run at Bromont. Basically rode the course with just a front brake. Did not finish well.Quote:
Originally Posted by McShortyShorts
(That was with Grimeca brakes back in the day, which became the first Shimano XT brakes the next year.)
Just submitted my service request for Diaz to custom tune and overhaul my Zeb. I swapped in a Fox 38 to see if I like it better and it feels even harsher than my Zeb. I'd open the 38 air spring and clean out what I assume is gobs of grease, but I don't have a shaft clamp and bullet tool to get everything apart and back together.
I really like it. The geometry and measurements are very close to my old #1 bike so it only took a couple days of short rides to get it dialed. Ive never had disc, electronic shifters, or tubeless so it's been a blast working with all of that stuff. Im not a racer so I don't really need everything the bike offers performance wise but Ive gotten used to it over the past couple of weeks and have no plans to go back. Im keeping my old bikes (a couple Kleins, DeRosa King, and a Bill Boston) and I only took the Kleins to Georgia when I moved a few years ago, the others are up in NYC somewhere. I think the bang for your buck with Canyon is pretty hard to beat. My normal 30 mile morning ride has been shortened up by ten or fifteen minutes. :fmicon:Quote:
Originally Posted by sfotex
Definitely have some serious bike lust for the V2 Druid! Buddy liked his so much he added a Dreadnaught. Need to ride the Druid, seemingly a really ideal bike on paper for me.Quote:
Originally Posted by Robik
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Put a new and slightly longer stroke shock on my rascal to get closer to 140 travel. Difference is crazy noticeable but not sure how much it’s due to a higher quality shock (old was a super deluxe select). Significantly more plush, smooth, and planted both uphill and down. I do notice being slightly lower in the travel overall so might make some front end tweaks to match
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