The screw snapped. I really didn’t put much torque on it.
Attachment 269140Attachment 269141
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The screw snapped. I really didn’t put much torque on it.
Attachment 269140Attachment 269141
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Had a fun single eject — er prerelease today. Was making the final turn out a rather spicy chute when my right ski found a chunk of ice. This sent my weight a little forward. As my pressure went into my boot I felt a “clunk” and my right ski went off down the couloir. I was able to quickly turn left and then skid out the bottom of the chute until my momentum slowed but fuck me that was annoying and I’m glad the apron was soft.
Cranking these bitches up to 11.5 [emoji869]
Data points.
215 with gear
Scarpa Freedom SL
189 billygoats
Edit - realized I was at 9.5 thought it was at 10.5 possibly user error but I have adjusted and will continue to report.
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Got some, thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by Spyderjon
Thinkin' out loud here (not liking what I'm seeing). I'm reminded of truss rod adjustments on guitar necks. The procedure is to loosen the strings before tightening (adding tension to) the rod.
I'm thinking that if you're going to adjust while the boot is in place (and why wouldn't one do it this way?), that you should always adjust in the direction that releases stress/tension in the system. I don't know which direction this would be with the Shift (not having handled one).
Let's say that moving"downward" (from Alpine toward Touring) is the direction with the least stress. So, with the boot in place, always adjust in this direction. If you overshoot the mark (go too low), then remove the boot, reverse direction (overshoot again in an "upwards" direction), insert the boot and try a "downward" adjustment again.
Perhaps someone who gives a Shift can comment.
... Thom
Twisting falls in deep japow today pre releases at all on 10 din a few times.
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is following right - afd won't work correctly without that mod on Hawx boot? how does this mod affect boot compatibility with STH2 WTR?Quote:
Originally Posted by Eluder
Add me to the list of people having issues with the afd. When I’m using my Fischer’s with grip walk soles I don’t notice any issues, but I have frequent dropping issues with my alpine boots. I’m thinking the afd is just not built for inbounds abuse when it’s extended as high as it needs to be for some boots.
It shouldn't affect it at all as the area of sole that has been removed shouldn't be sitting on the AFD.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sashka
That part of the sole does sit on the AFD because the Shift’s AFD is so much farther back than a traditional binding. My Dalbello Lupos with GripWalk soles sit the same way.Quote:
Originally Posted by Spyderjon
I don’t think it really matters though. The whole point of a sliding AFD is that it will move with your boot even if there is friction between the boot and AFD. If the AFD was fixed (a la Pivot 18) then you definitely would want use the mod from the earlier post to achieve the plastic on plastic contact.
It also made me less afraid to adjust my AFDs without a gap. With that small edge of rubber barely touching the AFD, there is a nearly perfect .25-.50mm gap between the AFD and the plastic portion of the GripWalk sole. The ground away plastic is probably the absolute best way to go, but I’m not convinced it’s essential.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sashka
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spyderjon
burrito, my comment was related to the use of a Hawx boot (thats sole has been modded to fit the Shift AFD) then being used in a STH2 WTR binding. The STH2 has a fixed AFD on to which the smooth section of the boot sole sits.Quote:
Originally Posted by burrito
i've had the opposite experience with race boots and only hill banging. I prefer the way these ski to STH2s.Quote:
Originally Posted by alias_rice
Ah. Missed that half of the initial question.Quote:
Originally Posted by Spyderjon
I havent actualy turned screws on a SHIFT but if you have to crank the height adjuster past the correct setting and then back, don't you wana do this without a boot in the binding ?
I don't put a boot in any binding when I'm adjusting the rear binding for correct forward pressure either
Good call on this! Got the toe lock working proper now. The lever finally worked in and have had no further issues...Quote:
Originally Posted by LeeLau
That's my method also.Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
For my only ski setup, I brought a praxis protest with Shift to hokkaido for the last 2 weeks for inbounds and touring. I brought 2 boots, Maestrales and old Krypton pros. Mostly skied the kryptons and after dialing in the AFD height I was pre releasing a few times but I think my DIN was too low and the forward pressure screw may have been incorrectly setup. I upped my din to 11.5 and fixed the pressure and no issues after that. Toured 1 day on the Maestrales and they were terriffic on the up and the down. I really like the binding and my only complaint is that it could use a 2nd higher riser bar to assist with climbing steeper skintracks. Nice work Cody, and team Solly!
I gave these bindings a bit of a run through, and had a bunch of issues.
Setup:
- Skis: Rossy Soul 7's
- Boots: Tecnica Cochise 130s with tech compatible sole inserts
Days on the skis:
- Hardpack day at Killington
- 4 day hut trip in Idaho
- Storm day at Squaw
Me:
- 5'10", 160lbs
- Former racer
- Aggressive in bounds skiier (straightlines, drops up to ~30ft)
- Limited experience going uphill
- Normal din setting for resort skis: 11
The skis came back from the shop with the dins at 9, and I decided to give them a try at Killington on groomers to see how the release felt. At 9, they felt about as easy to step out of as I would expect. However, on my first run, they released on a groomer while I was in a carve. I've never had that happen before, and I've skied my gs skis set at the minimum (~6), although of course there is a major width difference. I set them to 11 and didn't have anymore issues on groomers.
On the hut trip, I routinely twisted out of the pins while going uphill. Yes, I had the tab pulled all the way up in the locked position. It's possible I had snow or ice issues, but I was attentive to that issue and I came out ~10 times over the 4 day hut trip.
At Squaw, I pre-released twice. The first time, I was traversing a chute above the Fingers with some exposure. I hit the far wall with my tips (intentionally, and not hard). My uphill ski popped off, and luckily stayed right next to me. The heel was down, indicating that I came out forward out of the heel piece (of course, consistent with the mechanism). The second time, I dropped off about 10 feet onto a wind slab that was a little firmer than I expected. My ski popped off again on landing, and in trying to ride out on one ski, I caught my boot in the snow and sprained my MCL. When I found my ski, the heel was again down, indicating that I released forward out of the binding. I didn't take any twisting falls to test the toe release. In both incidents, I would've expected my old resort setup to have stayed on. It's also worth noting that I did do a bunch of other drops that day in the neighborhood of 10 ft, and the skis stayed on.
To recap, the issues I found:
- Bindings seemed to pre-release more easily than expected, both sideways (on the groomer at 9), and forwards out of the heel (at 11)
- Twisted out of the toe pins repeatedly while going uphill.
- Brake lock is prone to getting snow and ice under it.
- Brake lock is easy to disengage while going uphill by hitting the brake levers.
Do I have a faulty setup, or am I using the binding incorrectly? Any help would be appreciated, I don't think these bindings are usable moving forward unless something changes. I'm not super stoked about solving the pre-release problem by just cranking up the dins, without some reasoning as to why that's appropriate.
30 ft drops on a Rossy Soul 7? What the fuckin fuck?
Go look at Jesse Melamed’s Instagram, kids a pro enduro MTB racer and shreds Soul 7s. Absolutely shreds how everyone on TGR thinks they shred. Could legitly be a pro free skier.Quote:
Originally Posted by roQer
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While the Soul7 is the dentist / gaper ski of choice, I've definitely seen some shredders on them. The ratio is probably something like 1,000 to 1, but they exist.
I'm just trying to figure out where there's a chute with exposure above the fingers at Squaw. There's the nose and then a big bowl and then the fingers.
Jesse is 140lbs. Mass matters.Quote:
Originally Posted by skibrd
Having said that i see that gregliest is 160lbs so not big-boned either
I also weigh 140lbs, and I always liked the Soul 7. There is a shit-ton of fatass posers on this forum. For real.
Take a lap, beaters.
You’re so core, little fella.
I haven’t tried the Soul 7 yet because I’m a big dude, but it always intrigues me. Another ski that if it was made 192ish, I’d give it a go.
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Do you have the 1st gen Cochise's with the interchangeable alpine/tech soles?Quote:
Originally Posted by gregliest
If yes then I've got a Shift customer who's recently back from his first week of use on his Shifts (on Nordica Enforcer 100's) that's had real difficulty with that boot and my suspicion is that the boot toe inserts could be out of spec. He had real difficulty getting the boot on to the binding pins to start with (pins wouldn't open wide enough) and then couldn't get the toe lever to reliably lock up (and he did know that it's mega tight to lift when new etc). IIRC I don't think Tecnica used Dynafit approved inserts back then but I'd have to try and find some old literature to support that. He had a couple of lateral toe pre-releases in downhill mode and, not surprisingly, repeated twist-outs when skinning.