Anyone else get some today...?

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Originally Posted by Ottime

15 years in an exclusive relationship? Well, that would explain an aversion.

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oui. i do things mostly exclusively till i feel i'm fairly proficient at whatever it is i'm using/doing. when i went from snowboarding to freeheel skiing in 94' i didn't touch a snowboard one single time for 7 seasons. after 100+ day seasons for all of those 7 seasons freeheel skiing i felt i was fairly proficient at it and got on a board again. then i locked the heel down in 2006 and still haven't freeheel skied (cept xc and xcdh) or snowboarded since:)

as for today, man o man what a fucking unexpected precious session. second day in a row on my better halfs longboard. uh oh, slippery slope:D

1.8 feet @ 8 seconds with a 140 ish angle produced glassy light green perfect 100 yard thigh high peelers. felt like i caught 100 waves in 50 minutes before i had to get ready for work. total surprise morning. bliss. only one out. in maine. felt like it anyway:)

lots of tail stalls to low crouch head dip hair wash waves. water so clear i could see the wave behind through the one i was on. beautiful!

rog

PW7, with such long periods and widths angle, this swell will hit you just moments after it hits SD. I bet it will be up here just an hour later. I guess ya'll will see it early afternoon.

I do nothing exclusively. I'm pretty much a whore. Except I've been with my lady for twenty years, so I guess there that. Although, rog, I'm more concerned with your French. Are you perhaps a closest Beckie? That can get you shot and buried in the local hills.

And holy geez. That is a new record. 2 waves a minute. And double holy geez. 1.8@8. I forgot how small ME breaks. And I thought I'd be wasting time chasing a 4.5@10 due to the high tide. Silly. I'm sure after my summer visit I'll be chasing every thing

Cause triple posting is so hot.

PW7, another thing to consider with the long period. While areas like Lowers will likely be head high ish initially, spots like the SC Pier will barely see swell as the long period gets pulled across the entire beach and will be a 18" close out. Deep water focal points will be required through at least Friday when period drops down to 18 seconds.

Looks like we will have 4' wind swell trough this thing and about 4.5@15 from 295 for Saturday. Why o why? Just give me a clean S. Friday would otherwise be perfect at 3.6@20 for my dog or fp. OTOH a certain big sur break could be pretty epic on Friday with just that touch of wind swell getting in to break up the peak. Bet that spots goes up to DOH plus

^3 consecutive posts within 12 minutes, nice work.

Pt. Loma Buoy updated at 8:56 and nothing even close to 20 sec intervals. It also takes time from the initial pulse on the buoys to become rideable, let's hope this swell fills in fast and furious.

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Originally Posted by Ottime

I do nothing exclusively. I'm pretty much a whore. Except I've been with my lady for twenty years, so I guess there that.

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20 years. admirable fer sure. not me. just a year for me. lifelong is the goal this time.

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Although, rog, I'm more concerned with your French. Are you perhaps a closest Beckie? That can get you shot and buried in the local hills.

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eh, my french sux. enough to piss frenchies off. that's about it. good ammo:D

rog

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Originally Posted by Ottime

And holy geez. That is a new record. 2 waves a minute.

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right?:fm:

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And double holy geez. 1.8@8. I forgot how small ME breaks. And I thought I'd be wasting time chasing a 4.5@10 due to the high tide. Silly. I'm sure after my summer visit I'll be chasing every thing

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twas pretty trippy. looking back on yesterday it was averaging 2.4 @ 7 with 148 angle. and was fun.

when i woke up today and saw 1.7-2ft @ high 7's to low 8's and closer to 140 angle i knew i had to check it. offshore winds were lighter and perfect. waves were a tick bigger and much more consistent this am. god i love living within a mile from the beach. i never even woulda considered going yesterday or today when i was 15 miles away.

rog

i hope there is swell for yer visit ott.

HAT TRICK!!!:D

rog

4?:fm:

customer/friend just walked in. he sez his normal "sup guy" in his mass accent. then he sez, "saw you out in the water this am, you hear me honk as i drove by?" i said that i thought i heard a honk. he sez, "drove the whole length of the beach and there was no one out till i got past the restaurant and there you were. nice right's eh?" "ya guy" i said. then he sez, "what the fuck were you riding? didn't look like a shortboard to me." i then said, "joe, we all have pasts":D

he got a good laugh:)

good times, good times indeed.....

rog

thursday night surfing with my cousin will continue this thursday, even though I don't think he's gotten out in waves this large in a couple years. What's San O like on these larger SSW? - still long and mushy, or worth bringing my shortboard as well as the log?

^^ bring everything, we’ll sort it out at the beach ^^

Thanks for tip Ottime.....

A little something showing on the harvest buoy. Give us something by 7pm and I'll be stoked. I bet Ralph's (even though I know nothing about it other than its general location) will grab a hold of these fire runners and really make something of it.

Looks like Torrey Pines outter buoy started registering 20s intervals about 4 hours ago...now reading 3'@20"+according to stormsurf's link. I'm on daddy duty rest of the day, maybe I can sneak a surf check in before dark

http://www.stormsurf.com/cgi-bin/shiro.cgi?a=100


But it's not showing in the CDIP page for Torrey Pines...not sure why
http://cdip.ucsd.edu/?nav=recent&sub...english&tz=PST

CDIP will report the most energetic swell (when it is working properly). Wind swell and even mi period swell can pack quite a punch due to consistency. As the height of the long period increases, it will switch to that swell. But if it is 1.5'@20+ sets every 20-30 minutes, a 5@9 that is constant will beat it for most energy over a period of time. If that make sense. And they also get pretty confused when multiple mid/long period swells hit.

But that is good news. I'm still hoping for a sunset session as long as swell shows and the wind dies. Regardless, I'll be in the water from 5am until 6:22 tomorrow. Wife is driving in for school a little later than usual, so I should make a go of it.

Looked at your link. That is a spectral buoy reading showing all the different components of the swell. To break swell science down in three sentences, even when we have only one swell in the water, which never really happens, but theoretically at least, it will have a spectrum of frequency or period. So a swell that averages 20s, will usually show some components as long as 25s and down to 17s, which are estimations as well. As your graph shows, it is actually 16.66 (okay is even rounds that to 16.7) which are the periods the medium tends to group waves in sets.

That buoy reading looks like it is pickin up two long period swells, on about 20s, with another peak at 17s, and then a fair amount of short period noise. All that noise might be adding up enough to block a long period reading on the CDIP.

I love seeing a spectral with a distinct peak at 22.2 that quickly drops off to near zero once down below 14.3.

That's why I pulled up the spectral, Surfline was saying long period filling in yet the CDIP showed nothing. I just assumed since the 20s was the 'Primary' swell on stormsurf tool, that it would at least show up on CDIP at least once out of 5 readings. It would have made more sense if the 20s was tertiary swell on the spectral, Guess not.

Of course my buddy throws out the surf trip in august card as soon as I decide on surgery. Free place to stay in central America is hard to turn down, maybe just meniscus repair instead of ACL :fm:

Alright, lets try this again. Yesterday was a fucking bust in OC, wind, wind & more wind followed by ankle high surf.

Ottime should be done surfing soon (who the fuck surfs @ 5am in NorCal :fm: ), maybe he can lets us know if there are any god damn bumps in the water....:biggrin:

Not me. At least not this morning. Took a look and after watching for ten minutes decided to head back home and get cozy in bed.

Not really anything showing. Maybe a chest high wave came through. Might have just been the tide drain. I bet things look much better by 9am when the water has filled in a bit.

Looks like I'll hit it Friday afternoon. Still calling for variable 5 knots up here. I will probably get the boy to the water after swim school so we can get a viewing on how the swell fills in today.

some shoulder high sets already at Tamarack on the drive by this morning, but closing out pretty quickly already.

Tide and swell have both filled in. Lane has decent consistency an is running chest to a touch over head. Saber jets breaks once every 30 minutes but is offering up a very solid wave when it does. Energy looks fun out there. A little nw is blowing so it seems like town and kelpy points are the way to go.

Some fun ones out there this morning, and an occasional freight train would come through but the wind once again ruins all things fun. Busted up my foot pretty good as one of the above mentioned freight trains exploded on the back of board and sent me out over the nose. So me and my log went through the washing machine together, I am pretty lucky that it was only my foot I guess.

Anyway, hoping for an evening glass off. Here’s some shots of the shenanigans @ Lowers this morning...

http://imageshack.us/a/img16/5362/dsc05075z.jpg

http://imageshack.us/a/img59/9991/dsc05089u.jpg

heading up to san o at 5 - will snap some pics

This mornings readings look real pretty. 5.1@20 up here. That tends to get large. I might need to pull out the step up board. That will be pushing DOH plus at the focal points, with with the long periods, that shit will be throwing. Now I sit to pray that the winds don't come up today, even though I know we will likely get a light onshore flow. And any wind at all tends to be too much for the hole. I can only imagine what a certain big sur break looks like today. Jabesus it is solo this morning.

^^ sounds intense ^^

The wind turned everything to shit yesterday at noon, but it looked like it started to die down around 6pm though. Can’t wait hear from jtran about San-o....

Sorry I missed ya, but I really needed to ice and rest my foot if I wanted to get any other days of this swell.

Looks like it’s fucking thumping out there right now though, should be some solid sets rolling through today for sure.