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I hate wearing hard hats as I find them too warm especially when cutting on a warm sunny day, but they have saved my head in the past from falling limbs. I was felling a tall dead oak tree this past weekend and I knew one of the dead branches at the top could easily snap off and fall toward me as the tree was falling. Sure enough that is what happened and had I not moved back a ways it likely would have hit me.
No wood stove heat for me...but I ripped out a ton of thick aspen roots that were overtaking my yard:
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Gonna burn the fuckers in my fire pit all summer and make still living trees watch.
Built a cedar firewood rack to hold it all.
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Not sure if this qualifies, but since I'm also cutting the mill ends into firewood, I'm gonna say yes. Either way, wood is definitely being cut.
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Number one cause of death among arborists, from what I understand. If you can get over the price, the Pfanner helmet is one of the best things I ever bought (in the pics above). Having the ear, eye, and head protection all in one lightweight package is amazing.Quote:
Originally Posted by Grange
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I spent 2 days splitting so far and both the Fiskers 8lb maul and X-27 axe have been impressive. It's taking time to get used to th 36-inch handle on the maul. The axe is great when there a no knots and I am more accurate with the axe. My only complaint with the axe is it's durability. The first day of use and it is chipped. Still splitting well, but not a good sign for its longevity.
Heads up in Stanley ID. The road to Stanley Lake is lined w piles of cut firewood ready to be removed. It's mostly, but not all charred, probably a mix of green and beetle kill.
Wow, I've beaten the crap out of my x-27. I wonder if you hit a small rock or nail.Quote:
Originally Posted by Grange
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattig
also fiskars is very good about warranty and you'll probably get two axes out of it if you file a claim.
since it's firewood season I bought a offbrand 'kindling cracker' last year off amazon last year and these things are really nice for smaller pieces
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Out past couple days improving some ski glades.
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Yeah I really like mine too.Quote:
Originally Posted by NBABUCKS1
Nice. Gotta go do some of that as well in the next couple weeks.Quote:
Originally Posted by cat in january
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LikeQuote:
Originally Posted by cat in january
I welded one of those up last year minus the ring....works great, but now I just save myself and use the electric wood splitter for kindling.Quote:
Originally Posted by NBABUCKS1
Interesting. Are you hitting the ground through the split? /Captain obvious.Quote:
Originally Posted by Grange
I've had the X27, X17, and X7 for 13 years now, still going strong. I have hit the ground a bunch of times and the sharp edge did ding out to dull. I never liked mauls. I'm too weak, I think. The X27 for two-handed splits, and the X17 for one-handed splits. The X7 for the kids to learn to play. They're bored of it now, though.
No. I always keep a few of the larger pieces of wood as a splitting log. I split wood in the same spot that I have been for the last 15 years. It is where I stack firewood off my yard in the woods. So even if I would hit the ground at worst it would be a root as there are no rocks where I split.
The maul is nice especially for those tough to split pieces. I've used a 32" handle maul for most of my life so going to a 36" handle has been interesting. It feels heavier than my old maul even though they are the same weight and my accuracy isn't quite as good, but I like the wider face. What ever they coated the head with causes some wood slivers to stick to the face. The Fiskers maul doesn't get stuck as easily as my old maul which I'm guessing is because of the wider face.
This weekend I was splitting fresh cut hemlock with a maul that has a 32" handle and it was a lot of fun. Even with all the knots the wet wood still split much easier than the hard wood I take for firewood.
Found a .45 (?) in this round. Children in safety crocs for reference.
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Not sure if this is the correct thread for this. Anyway, house I bought has a janky ass woodstove setup in the shop. I have burned 40x fires in it in the last year. Figured the chimney needed to be brushed and noticed some smoke from one of the joints of the pipe. Upon further inspection it looks like it goes down to 6" from 8" for no reason and the ceiling support is actually for 8" pipe? Massive gap between the 6" where it meets the ceiling support (first pic). It's not even attached at all. Farmer shit.
The chimney above the roof is 6"
Is this thing just totally fucked up/installed wrong and I should start over with new 8" pipe up to that 8" ceiling support?
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I'd re-pipe from the stove to the roof with 8". Also, they lapped the pipe the wrong way, the male end of the pipe should be facing down so yes, they got it wrong. Farmers!
Ok sweet. Yeah saw that during my research that the male should point down which seems counterintuitive, but I suppose is so that soot falls down into the stove?Quote:
Originally Posted by Bronco
While it looks like they installed it wrong, I wouldn't automatically assume that replacing with a straight 8" pipe will be better. Ideal pipe diameter is based on a ton of factors (pipe length, stove BTU's, insulation, air resistance within the stove, etc.). When that's all correct, the stove will draft and burn better. A smaller pipe also holds more heat, which can help reduce creosote buildup.
None of this is to say what's currently installed is correct. But a proper installation with a bigger pipe might not actually be better from a functional standpoint. Tough to say without seeing what the stove calls for.
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If you want that to be covered by insurance, I'd ask them too.
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Soot, any liquid creosote and moisture. That pipe looks like it's in terrible shape anyway.Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian
I always assumed you'd run the pipe size coming out of the fitting on the fireplace but toast has a good point about pipe length and insulation. You can probably find this info or ask a grey hair at one of the fireplace shops in Bozeman.
Yeah this is the closest I can find to what my stove is. I'll have to look on the back of the stove but it looks almost exactly like this. I think Earth Stove" had an office/location in Livingston, MT once upon a time.
https://firewoodhoardersclub.com/for...h-stove.39094/
Is it the kind of earth stove that has a door that kinda folds forward on a bottom hinge? With some sort of little decorative glass thing in the door?
Had one of those in a shop at a previous house. That thing was terrible. Took forever to get up to heat and burned super inefficiently.
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I was sitting around in GF's place waiting for her to show when I hear a clunk
the stove pipe where it goes into the roof has slipped so there is a 6 " void between the roof fitting and the top of the pipe
SO you would think the house would fill with smoke but what actulay happened is the smoke just kept going up and into the roof fitting so you could see it going between the fittings which i thot was interesting
we got it fixed up and secured
Yup. Mine has no glass on the door but otherwise yeah. Burns through wood very fast without getting hot unless I put like 6 big pieces in it after its been cranking for 3 hours and then it still burns down to cold ash in like a few hours.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266