Shit you built with your own two hands (picture thread)

^^^Maybe?

A couple of questions:
a. you getting a permit?
b. you plan on having it engineered?
c. know anything about the frost line, footing requirements where you live?
d. know how to run a mini-ex?
e. how is the access for a concrete truck?

basically, the construction of deck is pretty straight forward....once you've built a few. The general workmanship necessary to build a B grade deck is pretty moderate. Making is A grade is a little harder and probably requires experience or a lot of patience and attention to detail.

Decks are only of the most dangerous components of a house. They are not something you want to fuck with structurally. They are also, eye fucked by inspectors.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Foggy_Goggles

^^^Maybe?

A couple of questions:
a. you getting a permit?
b. you plan on having it engineered?
c. know anything about the frost line, footing requirements where you live?
d. know how to run a mini-ex?
e. how is the access for a concrete truck?

basically, the construction of deck is pretty straight forward....once you've built a few. The general workmanship necessary to build a B grade deck is pretty moderate. Making is A grade is a little harder and probably requires experience or a lot of patience and attention to detail.

Decks are only of the most dangerous components of a house. They are not something you want to fuck with structurally. They are also, eye fucked by inspectors.

---

Dude, you're scaring the shit out of him for no reason.

a. you getting a permit? - You should, but not always necessary imo
b. you plan on having it engineered? why? Use same size joists and beams. The current deck didn't fail
c. know anything about the frost line, footing requirements where you live? he has existing
d. know how to run a mini-ex?no need
e. how is the access for a concrete truck? he has existing, but they pump that shit or hand toss it

^^^You might be right, you might be wrong. Like most things, it depends. People don't usually rebuild there decks because the existing one is awesome. Some more questions:

a. besides the usually nominal costs, what are the benefits to no permit?
b. how does the span chart change for type of decking used? have span charts changed over time? what about hot tubs? does the permitting entity require stamped plans? what does this cost
c. how do you know the piers are fine?
d. ever hand dig and backfill spread footings/bigfeet 36" below grade for a 600sq. ft. deck? You know a mini ex costs for a day?
e. you priced pump trucks for piers pours including the small load charge plus the extra mud to prime the pump that they are gonna dump in your yard? Done the calc on the bags on quikcrete needed? figured out how you are gonna get those into the back yard? How many 5 gallon buckets per pier?

Like I said, it depends. Just because you have the skill and motivation doesn't mean everyone does.

So Marshall--why are you replacing the deck? and are you copying the original or changing it?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Foggy_Goggles

^^^Maybe?

A couple of questions:
a. you getting a permit? Called today, spent 10 minutes looking over the application and what is required. While i have some reading to do, yes I plan on going through the full permit requirements.
b. you plan on having it engineered? No, here we have a "deck act" or some such that spells out, for example, the joist sizing requirements for span lengths, etc.
c. know anything about the frost line, footing requirements where you live? Ground does not freeze here (southeastern United States). Termites are pretty bad, I beleive you can't have wood touching dirt, but I am doing some reading.
d. know how to run a mini-ex? WTF?
e. how is the access for a concrete truck? NOTHING about this project would require that kind of material.

basically, the construction of deck is pretty straight forward....once you've built a few. The general workmanship necessary to build a B grade deck is pretty moderate. Making is A grade is a little harder and probably requires experience or a lot of patience and attention to detail.

Decks are only of the most dangerous components of a house. They are not something you want to fuck with structurally. They are also, eye fucked by inspectors.

---

xxxxx

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Foggy_Goggles

^^^You might be right, you might be wrong. Like most things, it depends. People don't usually rebuild there decks because the existing one is awesome. Some more questions:

a. besides the usually nominal costs, what are the benefits to no permit? plan on going through full permit process.
b. how does the span chart change for type of decking used? have span charts changed over time? what about hot tubs? no hot tub, nothing unusual does the permitting entity require stamped plans? no what does this cost n/a
c. how do you know the piers are fine? I am replacing piers. most of the construction I'm seeing around here are 4/x 4 posts footed in a precast "receiver." the precast receivers are, for example, available through home depot, and this is how the previous deck was constructed in part. in one or two corners there are maybe 3 inch galvanized pipes sunk in concrete.
d. ever hand dig and backfill spread footings/bigfeet 36" below grade for a 600sq. ft. deck? You know a mini ex costs for a day? again, what the fuck, dude?
e. you priced pump trucks for piers pours including the small load charge plus the extra mud to prime the pump that they are gonna dump in your yard? Done the calc on the bags on quikcrete needed? figured out how you are gonna get those into the back yard? How many 5 gallon buckets per pier? The damn thing is 5 feet off the ground, max. WTF are you talking about?

Like I said, it depends. Just because you have the skill and motivation doesn't mean everyone does.

---

xx00

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by old goat

So Marshall--why are you replacing the deck? and are you copying the original or changing it?

---

Goat the deck I have came with the house, i purchased in 1998. It originally looked like it was done in two phases, one very "plain" but very heavily contructed, like 2x14 framining, 2x12 joists, and galvanized pipes set in contcrete in the two courners away from the house. this is the area you walk out onto and is maybe 15x30. there were addons, one elevated with a built-in hottub which I promply ripped out and dumped at the local landfill, being careful to remove piers / footings for loadbearing in that deck portion only. the "add on" that is still there is an area also maybe 15x30 "sunken" about 2 feet lower than the "orginal area" "further from the house." The sunken add-on area I did not tear out seems to be "cheeper" in construction. I do not know how long these were completed before I bought the house.

I'm replacing because i'm finding carpenter bee damage in some of the framing, and some rotten wood in the framing. and, because, well, its pushing 20 years. I have reguarly treated it with the tompsons water seal, but just think it's probably really past time.

really, thank you all for responding! I'll try to put up some pics. Want to replace with something at most 2/3rds the size of what it now is "size wise" very plain, "single level" with a walk-out stair probably with a landing/turn to accomodate existing poared concrete approach from the driveway.

Decks aren't that hard or complex. It's visible, there's lots of resources. Even fixing ugly cfs like marshall has. Done them, they passed inspection. If you haven't built them the reason not to is usually what jackstraw said - there's better uses of your time relative to the money spent. Depending on the value of the house and your locale you might spend some time thinking over the replacement though.

in many jurisdictions decks over 30" from grade need engineering or architect stamp -- check with your jurisdiction

a repair can typically be made without permit
replacement is often done as a "repair" by homeowners -- not really a big deal as long as you are competent and handy
but generally, replacement often requires a permit

there are many illustrated homeowners building books out there with good rules of thumb showing layout and typical framing and connections

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by MARSHALL TUCKER

a walk-out stair probably with a landing/turn to accomodate existing poared concrete approach from the driveway.

---

That will be the hardest part of the project...maybe.

Since your changing the size you may have to pour new footings. This may end up being more of a cluster than it's worth to you. It's extremely important that everything is bearing properly especially if you're in Cali and/or have heavy snowloads. It's not necessarily difficult, but takes some thought and knowledge. Measure twice, cut once...or something like that and invest in a board stretcher. ;)

^ well. we did get 20 inches or so. once. in 1973. and in 2011 I beleive we got an edgeable 6 inches. but you can never be too careful

All this talk about permits and stamps slays me. I built this house with no permits other than septic and electrical and two inspections: one sanitary and one electrical.

https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...f4&oe=58A11C9B

https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...dc&oe=58891D01

https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...51&oe=58939F55

Nice
Attachment 191028

is that the smoking room?

Very nice.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by RootSkier

All this talk about permits and stamps slays me. I built this house with no permits other than septic and electrical and two inspections: one sanitary and one electrical.

https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...f4&oe=58A11C9B

https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...dc&oe=58891D01

https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...51&oe=58939F55

---

Not being much of a woodworker, but also building a house what is the trick to the curved knee braces. Those look about 500% better than my standard looking ones.

backs look straight, so I'll suggest a bandsaw. and something to smooth it afterwards.

Ah. Completely missed that the backs were straight. Thanks.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by RootSkier

All this talk about permits and stamps slays me. I built this house with no permits other than septic and electrical and two inspections: one sanitary and one electrical.

---

all depends on where you live. Here you would not get far trying to build that without structural engineering, environmental engineering for drainage, thermal engineering, bunch of inspections. We have earthquakes, fires, snowloads, and lots of nosy, asshole neighbors. We've certainly done stuff without permits but not where people can see it.
When we bought our house there was lots of unpermitted work that wasn't safe that we had to fix. Some people know what they're doing, some don't. And if you ever plan to sell a house the buyer and the lender will want to know that the paperwork is in order.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by RootSkier

All this talk about permits and stamps slays me. I built this house with no permits other than septic and electrical and two inspections: one sanitary and one electrical.

---

I'm confused...
Are you bragging you did it under the radar? Or your jurisdiction doesn't require permits?

Jx didn't require permits. To be fair, it was drawn by a well-respected architect, and the GC and I (I was the lead carpenter, sometimes I miss those days) didn't fuck around with any shortcuts. The place is totally legit with best practices for everything from flashing to insulation, and it is definitely overbuilt.

The architect spec'd regular 2x6s for the kneebraces but as a former timberframer I said fuck that and made them out of full dimension 2x, like the fly rafters. I did all the curved cuts on site with a jigsaw. The archi loved the braces and I never told him that I overruled his details.

Those braces make the place... great project.

Vermont's a DIY haven as well... as opposed to my super regulated Mass. town. The only inspection required in VT, was for the septic. I still overbuilt and did everything to last, since I am assuming it will be in the family for a generation or five. Installing an HRV unit today tho. I poly foamed the entire envelope... the place is totally airtight, so I have to import fresh air.

^Yeah, it's pretty specific to town inspectors. Some of VT is pretty tight with their state regulations...and they have some f'd up ones like MA. Still, CA and specifically Tahoe was the most absurd that I've experienced. They used to make the framers nail off the sheathing every 4-6" or so. I remember an inspector sitting on his ass watching a whole side of the house get nailed...again...from a ladder!...because they were every 8-10" or whatever inches apart. The 2x studs were splinters after having so many nails shot into them. :fmicon:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by BigDaddy

I poly foamed the entire envelope... the place is totally airtight, so I have to import fresh air.

---

The above house has a layer of poly foam on everything...and I mean everything. We even sheetrocked one side of all interior walls and put a layer of foam in every. single. interior. wall. It was borderline insane, but the house is so quiet it's amazing. We attached most of the major exterior detailing (braces, water table, some door trim) from the inside. I pity the fool that ever tries to remodel that house. I am out of the game now, so at least it won't be me.

Had a bit of help but we remodeled and old store into this
New pot shop wants to be the Taj Mahal of T.H.C.

http://www.king5.com/entertainment/t...-thc/341607422

(Via KING 5)