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I just recieved my raider12's. I was hoping they had a paper jig in the box. Also surprised binding freedom doesnt have jigarex plates for these yet. How is everyone mounting these? I used to make cardboard jigs for freedrilling but im a bit sketched with my skis being the most expensive ive ever bought
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Sorry if this has been covered… dang tgr search. My main bc skis are mounted with inserts for freeraiders, which with brakes and spacer are 370 ish grams. I’m on the fence on adding a couloir ski - and if I do, would prob mount with a trofeo plus (ie with the adjustment plate) and with inserts. So… if I go that route, thoughts on if those trofeo plus heels could also work with the freeraider toes on the main skis if I wanted to lighten em up for say a longer day - I’d have to put in baseplate inserts of course. I think I can work around the holes. Would save like 140 gr per ski (lighter heel, no brakes). The baseplate would help with ramp angle, but I’d need to dig up numbers on that delta. Would anything else though go totally wonky? Thx for any thoughts if someone’s done similar.
I paper mounted mine and got it right. Go slow, measure twice, have the right amount of beer/whiskey/pot (YMMV on what the right amount is). The template on Moment's site for the Voyagers is good.Quote:
Originally Posted by grinch
in case someone wants to give you a generous xmas gift https://www.haganskimountaineering.c...6-mounting-jig
Quote:
Originally Posted by grinch
That is some serious dorkery, I respect it! For the record, the brakes are easily removable so the weight savings would be well under 100g per ski. To me it would needlessly add holes to the ski. If you are concerned about weight but want elasticity, just get the Crest, Kuluar, or RT10 which all have the same heel performance as the Trofeo except with one less riser option and less weight, or get the C-Raider which has a lighter toe than the Freeraider and the same heel.Quote:
Originally Posted by tang
Similar to B10's suggestions, you can also look at the ATK Haute Route. Good deal right now from our favorite Italian shop Oliunid.
https://www.oliunid.com/atk-haute-ro...alpinismo.html
Quote:
Originally Posted by Benneke10
Haa thanks, i might have to sack up and do it then. That moment template looks like the ticket. It looks the same, is the voyager a raider?Quote:
Originally Posted by HAB
Thatd be nice! I think santa took me off his list unfortunately. That jig looks as tech as the binding but it also has the price to match. I doubt the shops around here would have an atk jigQuote:
Originally Posted by Pins and Skins
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This was just my experience but both my toe holes were slightly out of spec. Which meant when I just went by template it misaligned to toes enough to cause prereleases. So you might want to do the ole' throw one hole and check the holes/ boot alignment before committing to the other three.Quote:
Originally Posted by grinch
Great point. Thank you. Ill definitely do thatQuote:
Originally Posted by NorCalNomad
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mount the heel/ toe by one screw/ lock in boot to drill the rest
In a tech OR frame AT mount, the actual boot in binding is always correct
as opposed to a flaccid piece of paper that came from who knows where
Yes, dorkery for sure! I’ll check out the HR10 too. First question is whether to add the couloir ski… then bindings… then inserts vs direct isn’t… then do I add heel inserts to the existing bc skis. I can’t let the tail wag the dog here! ThxQuote:
Originally Posted by Benneke10
Im really hesitant to question your methods at this point but i question everything. I would think the heel piece , pins to boot, would have a little slop?Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
I was thinking id double check the paper template with the toe piece and mark tge boot center on the template with the boot in the toe, while constantly tape measuring for the length center of the ski. Id punch through the template to check as well. Triple triple check. Theres lee way to mounting the heels with the adjustment. Relatively centered in the boot adjust range, center of the ski and left and right identical
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whatever slop there might be its your actual boot clicked into your actual binding so you can't get much more accurate than thatQuote:
Originally Posted by grinch
IME what a template is handy for is figuring out where I want to 1st mount at dead center the heel in relation to ski center mark taking into account the binding adj & heel gap and this this is the important part
after the heel is screwed down the toe piece is mounted by one screw, then let it rotate to find its happy place while locked to the toe pin holes of the boot, drill one more hole and your binding is properly aligned so the boot will drop into the pins cuz thats where it was when you drilled the 2nd hole
go slow do some 2x4 test mounts and get comfortable with the layout procedure
as opposed to the drill all the holes and wondering wtf have i done method ?
Check your inbox.Quote:
Originally Posted by grinch
... Thom
That makes complete sense. Thanks manQuote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
Thanks again Thom. 20⁰ c today. Im going to chill for a bit. Should be good between you and xers tutorialsQuote:
Originally Posted by galibier_numero_un
I used to just slap them on but this is new level for me
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The instructions for the Freeraider (and every ATK I've mounted) specify to mount the toe, but leave the screws loose and don't snug them down until you've mounted the heel. Then, once the heel is mounted, you use it to align and gently tweak the toe on those loose screws so that it all lines up perfectly, and then snug down the toe screws. I've done 12ish paper ATK mounts at this point, and it's worked great for all of them. I think their paper jig is the best on the market, and their instructions are super helpful.Quote:
Originally Posted by grinch
Does anyone here have some AL09 spacer shims left? I bought a pair of used FR14 but it didn't come with the shims and I need to raise it just a bit to touch the heel of my boot.
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I should be able to hook you up, let me look in the garage. How many you need?Quote:
Originally Posted by Robik
Thats good, thanks. Im relatively confident i can make it work with the paper jig. Ill take the time to have the toe and heel line up. Should be goodQuote:
Originally Posted by cydwhit
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Not sure yet, looks like I have 3-4 mm gap between the sole and the spacer.Quote:
Originally Posted by Westcoaster
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Apologies for rehashing because I'm pretty sure the answer is buried in this thread somewhere but.......
Raider vs Raider EVO??
I think Evo has a new brake that requires heel piece to be rotated and therefore 3 riser levels not 5. Evo appears to be a little bit heavier, Also 11/13 v 10/12/14
Is that it?
There's a 15 too that comes with the freerider spacer (which btw is a new design and not the same as the old Raider spacer).
Was tempted to try the Evo for my setup this year, but then remembered you should never buy in the first year of a new model release, especially for something as techy as an ATK binding. Think I'll wait for next year.
The toe release value adjustment seems to be a good touch, not sure how effective it'll be though
Quote:
Originally Posted by dcpnz
This is a pretty obvious question, but just wanted to confirm before dropping $$$ on new binders...
I'm working on fitting some likely new ATKs (likely Kuluar) onto some skis with existing hole set that I'd like to re-use, at least for the heels.
My take from the template is that the "solid line 3" is where the boot heel edge should be in order to put the boot in the center of the heel range (in this case, 20mm range so 10mm forward and 10mm back). And also that this line takes into account the 4mm heel gap.
So net-net, if the new toe holes put my heel edge at that line (~1 cm back from the forward heel holes), then I should be centered and have full adjustment range.
Sorry to be so pedantic. Thx!
Attachment 431953
Evo doesn't come out for a few more months and I don't think anyone has skied them or even fondled them yet.Quote:
Originally Posted by dcpnz
In stock and already on sale at Oliunid https://www.oliunid.com/atk-raider-1...-bindings.html
That's a really good deal for a brand new model, but then again, it's a brand new model. Still intrigued by how the front RV adjustments work.
^^ to clarify above, the video on the ATK website shows how it works, I'm more wondering whether it'll actually work.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Benneke10