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Originally Posted by Boissal

Fork question.

I just bought one of the last Orbea Occams in stock to make myself feel better about my fooked up wrist. Orbea usually offers a bunch of component options but since their supply chains are flailing anything but the stock configurations have been unavailable for a while. That means I didn't get to upgrade the fork to a 150mm FOX36 with GRIP2 damper and instead will be getting a 140mm FOX34 with the Fit4 damper.

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sell the 34 and compensate. I’ve been thinking about Suntour DUROLUX ($491.96 with code)
I have the Fox 34 but I’d like the option to go 150/160 in like 10 min on my 135-ass end bike.

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Originally Posted by nickwm21

That’s an interesting question... when you shorten the stoke of the shock does the change in rear wheel travel come off the end of the shocks movement, or does it come off as an average....

If it’s the former, then your assumption is wrong...
If it’s the latter, you are right.

I’m sure it’s just a few MM different, but interesting to think about.


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The reason I figured it was off the end of the travel is because the eye to eye length remains the same. So the starting point from 0 stroke remains the same, it just stops somewhere in the wheel travel at 60mm of shock stroke instead of continuing to 65mm.

shock stroke is not directly proportional to suspension travel, it depends on pivot/link placement, for most bikes its not a huge difference, but for some it can be worth noting

think about a high single pivot with lots of rearward travel, during the first portion of shock stroke the wheel moves rearward and slowly upward, but in the second half of shock travel the wheel is moving more upward and not back very much, so the relationship between shock travel and upward wheel travel is increasing through the shock stroke

personally i would rather chop off the initial portion of stroke rather than the end, keeping the midrange and bottom out support and losing some of the more supple initial travel, depending on leverage curve and other crap of course, but honestly you wont notice a hell of a lot of difference on most bikes

im not familiar enough with the gg kinematics but assume its fairly linear as its compatible with air/coil and lots of difference travel configurations it should be easily tunable to what you are trying to accomplish

Dude.
Punctuation.

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Originally Posted by rideit

Dude.
Punctuation.

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i added spaces, im not paid enough for full sentences...
:the_finge

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Originally Posted by rideit

Dude.
Punctuation.

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I'd settle for some capitalizations.

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Originally Posted by Cabinfever

What PSI are you at in the tubed attempt?


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

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Is this still a problem? if so, coat tire bead with soapy water.

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Originally Posted by carlh

I have used a can strap around the tread to reduce air volume and make it easier to seat. Wtb suggests this tactic.

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I have done this for floppy road+ tires with good results. It can put the bead more where you want it. Other thing I've learned (maybe in this thread) is to pre-seat the bead with the lever before adding sealant or pumping, e.g. 12 to 6 oclock on the drive side and 6 to 12 on nds.

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Originally Posted by HankScorpio

I've mounted a million tubeless Maxxis Minions with no issue but I just got one that I can't get the bead to seat. When I first put it in the rim (no tube no sealant), I noticed the bead is a good 1-2 cm from the edge of the inner rim. I used the compressor and it wouldn't even come close to pushing the bead against the rim. I then put a tube in, seated one bead, pulled the tube out and the one bead is still 1-2 cm from the rim - no dice. I then did the same thing with some sealant - nope. Then put a tube in overnight to see if it would push the bead out - negative. I even rode it today to see if the bead would push out more and that didn't work.

Is this tire defective? Could the mold be off? Never had this issue and I'm out of ideas.

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No, return that tire. Something is wrong. You have good/great wheels, correct? Like you said, I just mounted a pair of Flows without stans and a hand pump in about 30 seconds.

Xt 8000 11 speed shifter snapping cables at the derailleur. Getting the cable in clean. I will replace the housing this time but can't figure out what I am not getting aligned to make them snap. This will be my third cable on this bike this summer. It is breaking on the exposed cable between the housing and the bolt for the derailleur.

Any advice?

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Originally Posted by carlh

I have used a can strap around the tread to reduce air volume and make it easier to seat. Wtb suggests this tactic.

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i have tried a cam strap but IME I still can't get it tight enough so what I do is get a piece of 3/8ths rope, make a circle just slightly larger than the tire carcass, put a screwdriver or some kind of lever in the loop and wind that rope up tight as possible which squeezes the tire tread down/spreads out the beads against the rim, I have been able to seat all my tubeless tires with just a regular shop pump using the rope

I got the idea from a gas station I worked at way back in the day where they had this metal clamp which went around the casing to help inflate tubeless car tires

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Originally Posted by XXX-er

i have tried a cam strap but IME I still can't get it tight enough so what I do is get a piece of 3/8ths rope, make a circle just slightly larger than the tire carcass, put a screwdriver or some kind of lever in the loop and wind that rope up tight as possible which squeezes the tire tread down/spreads out the beads against the rim, I have been able to seat all my tubeless tires with just a regular shop pump using the rope

I got the idea from a gas station I worked at way back in the day where they had this metal clamp which went around the casing to help inflate tubeless car tires

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I admire the ingenuity everyone uses, but wtf bike industry? Shouldn't be this hard (usually isn't in my experience, but I will admit to using cam straps before.)

Double check for a burr at the end of the cable housing. After cutting, I like to use a nail punch, or nail to round out the inside of the cut cable housing. It could be rubbing enough at the end to eventually saw thru your cable.

Either that, or you have something that you've missed in routing the cable thru the derailleur, a guide of some sort?

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Originally Posted by panchosdad

I admire the ingenuity everyone uses, but wtf bike industry? Shouldn't be this hard (usually isn't in my experience, but I will admit to using cam straps before.)

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well I supose i could re-market some tool from before cartire mounting machines got so good to all the dentists but I would still have to suggest using a piece of rope

a tube is like 6$ and nobody is making you run tubeless

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Originally Posted by Canada1

Xt 8000 11 speed shifter snapping cables at the derailleur. Getting the cable in clean. I will replace the housing this time but can't figure out what I am not getting aligned to make them snap. This will be my third cable on this bike this summer. It is breaking on the exposed cable between the housing and the bolt for the derailleur.

Any advice?

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I always face the ends of the cable on my shop grinder,

As already mentioned flare out the end of the cable with something pointy

if its a full suspension bike unbolt one end of the shock and slowly run the suspension thru its travel by hand to see if anything is binding or hanging up ?

Is the cable and housing long enough so it isnt snapping due to being stretched tight ?

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Originally Posted by Canada1

Xt 8000 11 speed shifter snapping cables at the derailleur. Getting the cable in clean. I will replace the housing this time but can't figure out what I am not getting aligned to make them snap. This will be my third cable on this bike this summer. It is breaking on the exposed cable between the housing and the bolt for the derailleur.

Any advice?

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The 8000 rear derailleur pulls the cable a pretty extreme angle. They tend to break next to the cable clamp where it rubs on the aluminum. A couple suggestions that you may have tried:
- When installing cable, get the adjustment right the first time. Don't clamp down on the cable, and then pull it out a little more and reclamp it. Clamping the cable weakens it, and it is prone to breakage at the clamping point.
- Don't over-torque the clamp bolt.
- Sand, file, or dremel a relief or fillet where you see silver rub marks on the derailleur housing. A small round file work well.

Attachment 335674

On the the previous generation of Shimano cranks, is the little black shim with a pin necessary?
Figure its either used to keep a loose arm from falling off, registration or possibly something to fill the arm slot gap/pinch against when you torque the arm down for installation? (M9000)

The shim/stopper plate might be hidden in the shop-vac. If it is unnecessary, I will skip trying to find it.


Thanks

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Originally Posted by g_man80

The 8000 rear derailleur pulls the cable a pretty extreme angle. They tend to break next to the cable clamp where it rubs on the aluminum. A couple suggestions that you may have tried:
- When installing cable, get the adjustment right the first time. Don't clamp down on the cable, and then pull it out a little more and reclamp it. Clamping the cable weakens it, and it is prone to breakage at the clamping point.
- Don't over-torque the clamp bolt.
- Sand, file, or dremel a relief or fillet where you see silver rub marks on the derailleur housing. A small round file work well.

Attachment 335674

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What torque on the clamp bolt? I will file or sand that connection point, and bet that is it. I had replaced this derailleur at the start of all of this when he snapped it off, and that photo is telling!

Thanks!

Looking to bump up my brake rotor size to 200mm from 180mm (front & rear). Running SRAM Code RSC brakes on a Fox 36 up front. Fox 36 takes 180 stock. I understand I need some sort of adapter to make the 200 work, but cannot figure out what the adapter is or what I'm adapting.

HALP ME EXPERTS!

SRAM Disc 20mm Post-Mount Disc Caliper to Post Mount Frame/Fork Adaptor.
A lot of sites will list them as 160 to 180 adapter. They are the same deal as what you need, just a 20mm bump.
I assume your rear frame is a Post Mount and does not have an adapter already installed, as in stock 180 disc, if you have a 20mm adapter already on there, you’ll need to replace it with a 40mm adapter.
If it’s mounted with IS (sideways bolts) you’ll need
SRAM Disc 20mm IS Adaptor, Fits 180mm Front and 160mm Rear Rotors

Little extension piece bolts onto the fork to pull the brake pads further from the wheel allowing more space for a larger rotor.

Any reason not to buy a very very lightly used sb130 from a friend? My current MTB is a full on hog. This is my 4th season on this bike. I have slowly tricked it out for enduro racing, but honestly don't think I will do a single race this year. It's a small Knolly Warden Carbon with push coil, DVO Diamond, wide Ibis 741/742 wheels, TRP Quadiem brakes, cush core and Michelin Wild Enduro tires (heavy but fucking amazing). It's 35 pounds right now. I need something a little lighter that I can still push hard on DH, but also go ride 30+ miles with my friends and not die pushing an extra 5 pounds around.

Is there a lot of overlap between these bikes? Every review kind of implies that the sb130 "feels" like a much longer travel bike, but climbs way better.

I think my biggest concern is coming from a very stout bike I will be underwhelmed or pushing the lighter bike too hard and wish I could go faster.

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Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian

<snip>

I think my biggest concern is coming from a very stout bike I will be underwhelmed or pushing the lighter bike too hard and wish I could go faster.

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This will undoubtedly happen. Or you WILL go faster on it, and break a bunch of shit. :D

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Originally Posted by meter-man

Looking to bump up my brake rotor size to 200mm from 180mm (front & rear). Running SRAM Code RSC brakes on a Fox 36 up front. Fox 36 takes 180 stock. I understand I need some sort of adapter to make the 200 work, but cannot figure out what the adapter is or what I'm adapting.

HALP ME EXPERTS!

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I often just make spacers out of nesting washers (ubiquitous on v-brakes and some SRAM/AVID disc brakes) and longer bolts. Never had one slip and cause a problem in 15 years.

Yeah, that's mostly just there to indicate that you've got the arm on far enough before you tighten the pinch bolts. You'll be fine without it.